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Jabba · 10-14-2003, 06:35 PM

Ok, I need help. We had a slow dripping leak that surfaced around our front window. I re-Vulkemed down the one side I could get to (TV antenna blocks opposite side) and across the top of the window eye brow. I then proceeded to Par Bond all the front upper segment seams and rivets on the eyebrow to be on the safe side. Figured it'd be good, wrong. I just went out and checked it tonight since it is raining, it is still leaking, not as bad but it still has water on the top of the frame. Would it be possible to leak at the top seam by running under (backwards) through the lap joint then all the way back down to the front? What little common sense I have is telling me it should be running a different way since there should be a rib at that seam, right? I also Par-Bonded around the radio antenna mounts. Is that top seam a likely culprit?

TIA

59toaster · 10-14-2003, 06:59 PM

I have a simular leak on both ends of our 59. Get's wet at the top of the end windows. Does your coach have fiberglass inner end caps like our 59?
On our inside cap I have many loose rivets at the first rib from the cap and signs the cap is moving some. A lot of this is from the bad floor I'm replacing not sporting the body properly I think.

I'm conviced it's coming from the keystone seams or the first rib seam on our unit. I think the rivets at the first rib and end cap have loosend up. It's quite possible that it's getting in those seams by capilary action and or wind and wicking through the insulation down to the window frame.

I bought some Vulchem and syringes from Airstream dreams and going to try to force it into those seams. See how that does. My guess is after 40 years what sealent is there, especialy if there is some movement as I suspect, has long since dried up.

Jabba · 10-14-2003, 07:23 PM

Hi Toaster,

Ours just has the 13 segment aluminum inner skins. The Vulkem in that top seam is definetly old and brittle. It's hard to imagine getting that much water to wick up and in there! I bought the syringes too, but found I didn't need them, can work the vulkem by hand pretty well. I guess I'll climb up there as soon as this lousy weather blows over in a couple days. Hopefully that seam is the answer!

Tin Hut · 10-14-2003, 10:42 PM

I have similar leaks but am confused about where I should use Vulcem vs Parbond. Can someone let me know where each is called for. Thanks.

Jabba · 10-15-2003, 07:21 AM

Par-Bond is recommended for gaps 1/8 inch wide or less, otherwise use the Vulkem.

59toaster · 10-15-2003, 07:31 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Jabba
Par-Bond is recommended for gaps 1/8 inch wide or less, otherwise use the Vulkem.

There is also different grades of Vulkem. Some has a filler and some doesn't. The 636 (I think I have that correct) is pretty usefull and thin enough to be used in simular applications as the Parabond.