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01-21-2019, 12:21 AM
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#1
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Rivet Master
2007 27' International CCD FB
San Diego
, California
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 2,123
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Ventline Bathroom Fan Speed Controller Mod
I recently needed to replace the motor on my bathroom ventline fan as the bushing was wearing out.
Took the opportunity to also modify it with a speed controller so it's not always wailing at full speed. I usually like having this single fan on 24hr/day as a way to keep bathroom fresh, some general airflow and background noise in the trailer. So a speed controller has been high on my list to also keep power draw at bay.
I added this from Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It can actually replace the original on/off switch but I couldn't get it to mount nicely in that switches position. Here's my compromise:
It works beautifully to set it anywhere between 10-100% speed. Or 10-100% noise, or 10-100% power draw. Nice fine control. No humming or whining noise to speak of. Why this isn't an OEM feature beats me.
Note for anyone wanting to use the same switch. Make sure to brigde the '3-15' solder pads on it before installing. It's setup for 24-35V before bridging.
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07-15-2019, 09:58 PM
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#2
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Rivet Master
2007 27' Safari FB SE
NW Oregon in a nice spot
, Oregon
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 879
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"Note for anyone wanting to use the same switch. Make sure to brigde the '3-15' solder pads on it before installing. It's setup for 24-35V before bridging."
HUH??????? This direction helps about as much as a teet on a bull does.
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07-16-2019, 06:05 AM
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#3
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Rivet Master
2019 30' Classic
Canfield
, Ohio
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 2,559
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Here, this may help.
This is a very nice idea! Running the fan for a short time works OK, but having the ability to let it run longer to move a little "air" without the noise, say at night, is a great idea. I'm going to add one to the shower also. We keep a small washing machine in there and it always feels damp and smells from the soaps we use. This is a perfect solution without using up to much power if boondocking.
Good call!
__________________
"At some point, throwing money at the problem *is* the right answer", Uncle Bob
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Tom & Doty
2019 Airstream Classic 30 Twin
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07-16-2019, 07:25 AM
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#4
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Rivet Master
2012 Avenue Coach
Corpus Christi
, Texas
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 1,719
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Very nice mod. They should come with variable speed from the factory.
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07-16-2019, 12:41 PM
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#5
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The Aluminum Tent 3
2014 23' Flying Cloud
Park City
, Utah
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 2,157
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bweybright
HUH??????? This direction helps about as much as a teet on a bull does.
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This might not be the best approach to get clarification or help.
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07-16-2019, 05:28 PM
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#6
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3 Rivet Member
2003 25' Safari
Keizer
, Oregon
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 190
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Cool
Did you have to notch the inner aluminum skin to make room for the speed control? I assume you did.
__________________
2003 Safari 25SS
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07-16-2019, 08:38 PM
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#7
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Rivet Master
2007 27' International CCD FB
San Diego
, California
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 2,123
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Yes, will have to trim some aluminum enough to provide clearance against the board.
The speed controller can completely replace the original on/off switch in that position. If one can take the time to help it seat right against the relief there. I didn't find an easy way so I opted to mount it as a secondary control.
Perhaps if one used a controller like this with a remote knob, it could fit in the stock switch location which would be best:
https://www.amazon.com/RioRandTM-Upg...%2C210&sr=8-54
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07-22-2019, 04:53 AM
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#8
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3 Rivet Member
2015 30' Flying Cloud
Port Sanilac
, Michigan
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 145
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Nice idea. Question: Would you be able to use the speed controller where you installed it on the rim and just bypass/remove the original switch?
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07-22-2019, 09:46 AM
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#9
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Rivet Master
2007 27' International CCD FB
San Diego
, California
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 2,123
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^Yes. All these speed controller have an "off" detent at the knob of the speed control. So the stock red switch is unnecessary.
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07-23-2019, 06:27 AM
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#10
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Rivet Master
2012 25' FB International
Trent Woods
, North Carolina
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 3,120
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I did it
Since I saw this post I knew I had to do it. I ordered both controllers, from Amazon, shown below, but the big one just seemed too big to mount where I wanted it. So I used the smaller one. I mounted it up in the Ventline on the cross-brace with a VHB/tie wrap mounting plate. Nice and out of the way but close to the motor. I used marine speaker crimp connectors for the motor, perfect fit.
Best of all, I did not disconnect any of the original wiring except the slip-on connectors at the motor. That way, if this controller dies, on the road, I can just disconnect it and reconnect the original motor connections. Everything is shrink tubing wrapped to prevent any water intrusion. Works great! Thanks!
Larry
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07-23-2019, 10:06 AM
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#11
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The Aluminum Tent 3
2014 23' Flying Cloud
Park City
, Utah
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 2,157
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Larry, what is the difference between the two different sized controllers you pictured?
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07-23-2019, 10:21 AM
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#12
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Rivet Master
2012 25' FB International
Trent Woods
, North Carolina
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 3,120
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aside from size, the big one is rated for 6-90v and 15 amps, hence the big cooling fins. The little one is rated for a max of 15v and 2 amps, which seems adequate for the little fan. The smaller one is $7 and the larger one $11. The bigger one looked to have more margin for error of operation but when I saw the size, in the flesh, I realized i could not use the bigger one. According to Amazon reviews, someone has installed the bigger one in their Fantastic fan, but I think even that would be a challenge.
Larry
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07-23-2019, 10:22 AM
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#13
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Rivet Master
2007 27' International CCD FB
San Diego
, California
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 2,123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lsbrodsky
Since I saw this post I knew I had to do it. I ordered both controllers, from Amazon, shown below, but the big one just seemed too big to mount where I wanted it. So I used the smaller one. I mounted it up in the Ventline on the cross-brace with a VHB/tie wrap mounting plate. Nice and out of the way but close to the motor. I used marine speaker crimp connectors for the motor, perfect fit.
Best of all, I did not disconnect any of the original wiring except the slip-on connectors at the motor. That way, if this controller dies, on the road, I can just disconnect it and reconnect the original motor connections. Everything is shrink tubing wrapped to prevent any water intrusion. Works great! Thanks!
Larry
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Nicely done Larry!
That was the way I was hoping to do it, but I didn't land on exactly the right controller without some iteration so I worked with what I had. That remote pot switch is the trick. Glad you found one that works!
Can you share a link to the small controller you used?
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07-23-2019, 01:11 PM
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#14
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Rivet Master
2012 25' FB International
Trent Woods
, North Carolina
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 3,120
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Here you go!
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08-05-2019, 05:17 AM
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#15
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Rivet Master
2015 30' Classic
Decatur
, Illinois
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 691
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how to remove screen assembly?
give us a primer on the proper way to remove the handle/screen assembly on the vent fan to facilitate the installation of the fan speed control
Thanks
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08-05-2019, 05:23 AM
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#16
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Rivet Master
2012 25' FB International
Trent Woods
, North Carolina
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 3,120
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OK, the handle needs to be pulled down. From the side, you will see a screw in each end. Remove the two screws and the handle pulls off. Then remove the two screws holding the screen. Note that this was not possible for the fan in the shower as the caulking and the additional height of the enclosure do not allow the handle to pull down far enough to access the screws. When I need to remove the screen, for cleaning, in the shower, I use a small right-angle ratchet screwdriver.
Larry
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02-07-2020, 08:30 AM
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#17
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Moderator
2015 25' FB Flying Cloud
2012 23' FB Flying Cloud
2005 25' Safari
Santa Rosa Beach
, Florida
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 13,159
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I have gotten the recommrnded speed controller from Amazon. I have started to undertake the installation and have encountered a problem.
When I pull down the handle the screws are not even close to being exposed. Lucy is a 2015 with the vented air conditioning. The extra thickness of the ceiling does not allow the fan handle to come down far enough. I have taken the trim ring off. But I still can't get to the screws.
Any ideas?
__________________
SuEllyn & Brian McCabe
WBCCI #3628 -- AIR #14872 -- TAC #FL-7
2015 FC 25' FB (Lucy) with ProPride
2020 Silverado 2500 (Vivian)
2023 Rivian R1T (Opal)
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02-07-2020, 08:58 AM
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#18
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Rivet Master
2015 30' Classic
Decatur
, Illinois
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 691
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take the screen out and one screw for the handle is easier to get to than the other, I used a #1 phillips that is a longer shaft to reach the other. It will take a little manipulation, but it can be done
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02-07-2020, 09:27 AM
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#19
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Rivet Master
2017 25' International
Carlsbad
, California
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 706
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Brian & Larry,
I need to do this mod too. For me it solves two issues. I broke my shower fan handle while making sure it was closed---duh. Since then I purchased the replacement handle but could not get to the screws and quit. Then, the variable speed control is such a great idea, I have to try to tackle that too.
I'll have to try to get to the screws again and order the control. To clarify, Larry- the switch that you used does not require any modifications on the board because of the voltage, it's plug and play?
Brian, were you able to get those PITA screws out and back in?
Thanks to all.
Jeffrey
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02-07-2020, 09:46 AM
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#20
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Rivet Master
2012 25' FB International
Trent Woods
, North Carolina
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 3,120
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No mods required, just disconnect the old switch and connect the new. Mine is easier without ducted air. Somewhere on the Forum I read that someone had to go in from the top because of the access issue on newer Airstreams, but I cannot really give any advice on that.
Larry
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