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Old 02-10-2020, 03:12 PM   #21
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The new switches arrived today. Plan to replace both the shower and bathroom units on Thursday. Starting with the shower unit first. Yes, it's the most difficult one and I have ducted air.

If you don't hear from me for a week, expect the worst! Otherwise, I'll report back.

Jeffrey
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Old 02-12-2020, 06:45 PM   #22
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All finished. The process is easier if you do not have to remove the handle. I was able to flex the parts around enough to remove the screen on the bathroom fan. Then the switch is just easy. The worst part was my shower unit because I had broken the handle a year ago. I ordered a replacement handle/pull but the replacement process was intimidating. There is no room to work between the fiberglass and above the interior skin. There are wires and brace/brackets there that make it a difficult task. As mentioned above, with some patience and taking it very slowly, using a small ratchet with a swivel, I was able to get the second screw in the new handle. That took me 45 minutes alone.

I like the switches, the fan motors are not quite as quiet as I had hoped at 1/3 speed. But at 50% they are nice and quiet. Awsome idea and thanks to all for sharing!

FYI : I did place a piece of rubber between the small board and the fan bracket to act as an insulator for solder points against the metal.
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Old 02-12-2020, 10:02 PM   #23
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Ventline Bathroom Fan Speed Controller Mod

Can you post a picture of the final results on the fan speed control, please?
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Old 02-13-2020, 11:48 AM   #24
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Bathroom fan. I did not remove the handle here. I rotated and twisted an tweaked the screen to get it out.

Apparently, I am told, that if you remove the dome on the roof, you can pick up some more extension of the handle inside, which in theory, might allow better access to the screws holding the handle in place.

Can't make any promises there...

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Old 02-14-2020, 06:09 AM   #25
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Very nice idea! Just ordered the switches and will do this on our 2018 27FB with ducted air. As mention here, has anyone tried this install front the top?
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Old 02-14-2020, 08:28 AM   #26
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I'm still working on the project in Lucy. I never could get to the screws on the sides of the pull handle. Since I had already removed the trim flange from the fan, I was able to move the screen laterally into the area between the ceiling aluminum and the insulation. The I was able to slide it out completely without bending it. If I can ever get back to the project, I will have it done soon.

I do have one question, though. On the speed controller unit there are four wire attachments holes, two for the power and two for the fan motor. If someone could tell me which wires go in which hole, I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks.

Brian
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Old 02-14-2020, 08:51 AM   #27
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Mine is clearly marked on the back of the circuit board, IIRC.
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Old 02-14-2020, 09:09 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turk123 View Post
Here, this may help.

This is a very nice idea! Running the fan for a short time works OK, but having the ability to let it run longer to move a little "air" without the noise, say at night, is a great idea. I'm going to add one to the shower also. We keep a small washing machine in there and it always feels damp and smells from the soaps we use. This is a perfect solution without using up to much power if boondocking.

Good call!
Looks like there have been two switches posted.

So if I get this one

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

vs the other one that was posted by lsbrodsky

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The first one I would need to bridge 3-150 to allow it to run with my 12v in the trailer.

The second linked switch requires no bridging, and has a remote switch off board.

I'm I missing anything, cause this is one really cool mod that I'm interested in doing.
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Old 02-14-2020, 11:36 AM   #29
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I got the second one, with the switch on a short wire. The connections are marked on the back of the circuit board.

Reason is that I think it will be easier to mount neatly, and have the switch fit in the original switch hole. YMMV.

In either case it’s necessary to properly insulate the circuit board traces and solder joints from the metal you may mount it on.
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Old 02-14-2020, 06:44 PM   #30
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Brian,
mine had power + -
motor + -

I went black to +
white to -
In the ceiling is could the that the black was tapped on the yellow or purple line from the converter..
anyway see picClick image for larger version

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Old 02-15-2020, 03:47 PM   #31
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Installed mine today. Fit right in with no problems. Much quieter with the fan turned down a bit!
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Old 02-15-2020, 05:41 PM   #32
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It's an awesome mod. From crass to refined.
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Old 02-16-2020, 06:30 PM   #33
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2018 27 FBQ, quick install - (1) pull the fuse for the bathroom (2) remove the trim from the fan, 3-screws (3) i had to replace the fan handle, so removed the broken handle, 2-screws - challenging to get to.. but eventually got them out (4) remove the screen, 2-screws (5) remove the existing on/off switch from the screen (6) add the new switch to the screen (7) cut wires from old (8) motor wires go to motor (9) heavier gauge wire go to power - see pics! Quick, worthwhile mod! Click image for larger version

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Old 11-04-2020, 10:26 AM   #34
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Which wire goes where?

I’m working on this nifty fan mod. But since I have diminished capacity when it comes to electronics, I have a question that may seem too obvious to smarter folks than e, but here goes.

My fan has two wires coming out of the ceiling, a white and a black. The white attaches to the fan. The black attaches to the original switch and then black runs from the switch to the motor.

The new switch has connections for Power + and Power -, Motor + and Motor -.

How do I hook this up?

I’m guessing black from the ceiling to the Power + on the new switch, and black from the Motor + to the motor.

Can anyone set me straight?
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Old 11-04-2020, 11:55 AM   #35
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Here what the wiring in my fan looks like

Click image for larger version

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Old 11-05-2020, 03:50 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brad1 View Post
I’m working on this nifty fan mod. But since I have diminished capacity when it comes to electronics, I have a question that may seem too obvious to smarter folks than e, but here goes.

My fan has two wires coming out of the ceiling, a white and a black. The white attaches to the fan. The black attaches to the original switch and then black runs from the switch to the motor.

The new switch has connections for Power + and Power -, Motor + and Motor -.

How do I hook this up?

I’m guessing black from the ceiling to the Power + on the new switch, and black from the Motor + to the motor.

Can anyone set me straight?
you will need to run the ground thru the switch for it to work, undo the ground wire from the motor and connect it to the - terminal, then run a new ground wire from the "out" - terminal to your motor
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Old 11-05-2020, 08:08 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rbs View Post
you will need to run the ground thru the switch for it to work, undo the ground wire from the motor and connect it to the - terminal, then run a new ground wire from the "out" - terminal to your motor
But wait! There are four terminals on the new switch. They are marked Power + , Power - , Motor + , Motor - . This is the source of my confusion.
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Old 11-05-2020, 09:35 AM   #38
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This is a great mod!
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Old 11-08-2020, 05:17 AM   #39
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here you go

picture of the correct wiring of the switch
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Old 07-23-2021, 10:53 AM   #40
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Replacement switch went crazy

We came home after a great dinner at Cafe Sport on Main Street in Livingston Montane to find the shower fan running on high. It had been off when we left. I cycled the switch to no effect. I could feel the click where off ought to be but no dice. I pulled the fuse to see if an on/off reset would fix it but no. That meant I had to remove the handle-which is a pain-then the screen and finally remove a wire to the little circuit board part of the switch to get it completely turned off. This is almost two years after initial installation. I used the smaller of the two switches mentioned above and have ordered another one for replacement

One thing that makes this project easier is a short, slim grip Phillips screwdriver to remove the handle screws plus a very small Phillips screwdriver for the screws at the wire connectors on the circuit board.
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