Step by Step: Replacing OEM skylights with new Custom Maxim Skylights

[KJRitchie]

Originally Posted by switz

We put the Maxim frosted white lenses above the bathroom in the Classic. That is their best light diffuser for inside light and block the most heat gain. We used the middle bronze tint for the front unit and you can see the stars at night through it. We also put the frosted white on the 23D as there was only single skylight.

I'm planning on having my stock skylights replaced in May. I like the idea of the Clear-Frosted White-Clear in the front bath/bedroom area for sunlight and for heat gain.

In the rear living area the heat gain is the most due to all the windows. Would I get a noticeable change in the heat gain if I went with the C-FW-C in the rear also? I don't really need to look up at the stars through the skylight. The only thing I might miss was being able to see the TV antenna.
For those with the C-B-C or B-C-C do you feel a lot of heat through the skylight and then have to use your sliding shade?

Thanks

Kelvin

[Moflash]

I installed clear Maxim skylights front and rear in our 28ft three years ago.No noticeable heat gain.


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[switz]

We selected the Maxim mill aluminum frames for both trailer installations since the trailer is silver. Being shorter than a lot of folks at 5' 5" on a good day, I can not see the Maxim frames from the ground. I thought anything painted or anodized is just something else to have issues with in the future.

Like mentioned above in a prior post, we selected the clear bonze version for the Classic (has Hickory wood cabinets and a orange color based Marmoleum flooring) kitchen/living area and have been pleased with the results. The inside light seems softer on the eyes in bright sunlight.

[KJRitchie]

What is the vote for frames? I was going to go with the white frames since the roof is white.

Also, is there an advantage in light or heat gain in having the outside lens Clear vs Bronze or frosted white? I would think having the tinted lens on the outside and then two clear lens below might block the heat better than having the tinted lens between the outside and inside lenses.

Kelvin

[lsbrodsky]

I did a white frame and like it.
Larry

[A W Warn]

My skylights have a white frame with clear, clear, clear lenses. There is very little heat gain (at least I do not notice any) during the heat of the day. I did notice one day when the sun was hitting the corners of lenses just right in the early morning, there was some magnification concentrating the light on the kitchen counter. It only lasted a few minutes since the sun continued to move, just long enough to warm the surface.

I'm extremely pleased with the Maxim Skylights. Mine have been installed 2 years. They still look new.
I really like the amount of light and the view from the clear lenses.

[RFP]

Originally Posted by KJRitchie

What is the vote for frames? I was going to go with the white frames since the roof is white.

Also, is there an advantage in light or heat gain in having the outside lens Clear vs Bronze or frosted white? I would think having the tinted lens on the outside and then two clear lens below might block the heat better than having the tinted lens between the outside and inside lenses.

Kelvin

Hey, Kelvin... Go ahead and do this! I'll follow your lead as soon as I can figure out how to get on the roof! Oh, by the way, is it OK to "walk" on the Airstream roof?

L8r

Rob

[Moflash]

Originally Posted by RFP

Hey, Kelvin... Go ahead and do this! I'll follow your lead as soon as I can figure out how to get on the roof! Oh, by the way, is it OK to "walk" on the Airstream roof?



L8r



Rob

I put duct tape over my entry door gutter (so not to scratch)then place my extension ladder against it to get up on the roof.I also cut a 2x12 to 30 inches in length,got a carpet reminent and wrapped it around the board and used contact cement to fasten it.I take the carpeted board with me to span the ribs on the roof.The ribs are plainly visible by the horizontal rivet lines.Step only on the ribs.Stay away from the end caps and you will be fine.The board makes a great seat also while working on the skylights.Removing the old sealer is the most time consuming otherwise it's a easy straight forward upgrade.I go up on the roof at least one a year to inspect and wax it.
Don't be surprised to see water stains on the wood frame that the cheap factory skylight was attached to.Mine were cracked when it left the factory due to over torqued screws that are used to attach the brittle skylight covers.


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[Ag&Au]

Originally Posted by RFP

Hey, Kelvin... Go ahead and do this! I'll follow your lead as soon as I can figure out how to get on the roof! Oh, by the way, is it OK to "walk" on the Airstream roof?

L8r

Rob

Getting on the roof is easy. All you need is a ladder. It's staying there than can present a problem. We walk on ours with soft soled shoes. Make sure you step on the ribs.

Ken

[asv2]

Hello All,
My new Maxim skylight is on order. Yay!

Meantime, what sealant/caulk to use? Since solvent-based sealants can attack the polycarbonate, David at Maxim recommended Quad Max sealant as being safe for the Maxim skylight.
I thought I'd also ask how everyone's previous installation has held up and what caulk they used. It should be a good gauge of what sealant does or does not work.

Below is a interesting link I found that has some good info I thought I'd share:

http://www.westmarine.com/WestAdviso...ants-and-Caulk

[RFP]

OK, maybe this is a dumb question (I'm famous for those!), but wouldn't it be easier to do much of the work in replacing the skylight from inside the trailer? The 'clear' parts of the OEM skylight could be cut out leaving a pretty nice size hole through which to work. Using just a short step ladder, one could stand up through the now-open skylight hole and remove all the vestiges of the original skylight. Also, mount the base assembly of the new one. Then the only work remaining - and that which would have to be done from the roof - is the final installation of the new skylight.

Am I missing something here, or is this a pretty good idea?

Rob

[KJRitchie]

Thinking out of the box again.

Is the skylight in your 23d a rectangular skylight? My 25fb has a rectangular and a square skylight. I'm not sure I could fit through the square skylight hole. Maybe its just faster to do it all from the roof.

Kelvin

[RFP]

Originally Posted by KJRitchie

Thinking out of the box again.

Is the skylight in your 23d a rectangular skylight? My 25fb has a rectangular and a square skylight. I'm not sure I could fit through the square skylight hole. Maybe its just faster to do it all from the roof.

Kelvin

Kelvin,

It's square. As I measure it, I would have a full 19" X 19" opening through which to stand and do this little task. I would fit easily... compared to some of my former "projects," this would be luxurious "working room!"

Rob

[Moflash]

Originally Posted by RFP

OK, maybe this is a dumb question (I'm famous for those!), but wouldn't it be easier to do much of the work in replacing the skylight from inside the trailer? The 'clear' parts of the OEM skylight could be cut out leaving a pretty nice size hole through which to work. Using just a short step ladder, one could stand up through the now-open skylight hole and remove all the vestiges of the original skylight. Also, mount the base assembly of the new one. Then the only work remaining - and that which would have to be done from the roof - is the final installation of the new skylight.

Am I missing something here, or is this a pretty good idea?

Rob

You might as well start on the roof as you will be spending some time up there anyways (1-2 hours per skylight) .Removing the old skylight is not labor intensive.Removing the old sealant is the most labor intensive.Installing the new skylight is a breeze and than the new sealant for the finishing touch.You will be comfortable working on the roof after 15 mins.See my post above for additional tips.

[switz]

No parachute necessary, but one could rig a safety strap to keep themselves more or less centered on the roof.

[RFP]

Originally Posted by Moflash

<<< snip <<< ...spending some time up there anyways (1-2 hours per skylight) .Removing the old skylight is not labor intensive. Removing the old sealant is the most labor intensive.

Thanks, 'Mo' ... Actually that's pretty much the whole point of this idea. The ability to stand up and work [safely] from a ladder with the task-at-hand being pretty much just above waist level still seems like a benefit. Being one who can complicate almost anything, I'm sure that removing all the old sealant will take me forever! Of course, I'll have to make dozens of trips up and down to get the tools I forgot to take up in the first place... better on an inside ladder than up onto the roof.

Originally Posted by Moflash

Installing the new skylight is a breeze and than the new sealant for the finishing touch. <<< snip >>>

Yep, a "quick trip" to the roof, and I'm done.

I'll probably try this and if successful, I'll post it... if not, well, you know....

[Hittenstiehl]

We had reasonably good succuss standing inside the Airstream on a good platform style ladder and popping up thru the hole. I say platform ladder or make yourself an actual platform because a regular rung ladder can be hard on the feet for extended standing.

Then you can turn around as necessary. We eventually padded the edges of the hole with folded towels as the DH's ribs were getting sore leaning and reaching over the aluminum edges. Might want to put a cardboard flat on the center of the roof as tools that get bumped gladly roll down the sides of the airstream.

[WGreg]

I just finished adding 2 Maxim skylights to our 31' Classic. I used OSI Quad for sealing the lights to the curb and a product called Duck Patch for the flashings and all the other roof penetrations. So far so good. The AS sat outside through wind, an inch of rain, and some hail yesterday with no leaks or other problems. The hail wasn't expected, but it's spring in central Illinois. I'm not certain of the long term durability of the sealants yet but am expecting them to hold up over time.

[66Overlander]

MAXIM Skylights - What Size for a 2016 Airstream?

Hi All, I am getting ready to order Maxim Skylights for my 2016 Classic. Just got done talking to David at Maxim and they do not know a standard size for 2016 Airstreams. David had no records of Maxim actually building skylights for a 2016 Airstream, but he did indicate that the Airstream skylight curb dimensions seemed to get slightly larger about 2013 or so by about a quarter inch, so this may still apply in 2016.

Maxim used to typically make their skylights to 17.25"x25.25" for a 17"x25" rectangular skylight, but now sometimes make them to 17.5"x25.5" because the slightly smaller dimensions do not always fit on new Airstreams.

Similarly, they used to typically make them to 22.25"x22.25" for a 22"x22" square skylight, but now sometimes make them to 22.5"x22.5" becuase the slightly smaller dimensions do not always fit on new Airstreams.

Our Airstream is stored about 2 hours from home so I cannot easily go measure it. Worse, I cannot really get a precise measurement of the actual curbs without removing the factory original skylights that are held in place with only double sided tape. I also fear measurement error thru the distortion of the existing skylight material.

I am wondering if anyone has measurements of the actual skylight curb dimensions on a 2016 (or event a late 2015) Airstream?

If not, what Maxim skylight dimensions did you order that fit properly on a 2016 (or late 2015) Airstream?

Obviously, I can order them a little bit large if necessary but would like them to be a close to the curb as reasonably possible.

Thanks in advance for any help you can offer.

[Ag&Au]

Joe,

The best solution is to measure your curbs and order them that way. I ended up having to return one skylight and have another made (at their expense), because their "standard" airstream measurements were not exactly the same as my curbs. it is possible for individual trailers to have curbs enough out of tolerance with the "standard" that the maxims may not fit although the cheap OEM will still work because they are more oversized. Make sure you consult with Maxim regarding the correct way to measure. Also (at least with my trailer) it is possible for the curbs to not be exactly square, so be sure that the given square dimensions you provide to maxim will fit over all four corners.

Ken