Step by Step: Replacing OEM skylights with new Custom Maxim Skylights

[Westfalia]

Does anyone have the width of the curb material?

You should be able to measure from the inside if you remove the plastic trim. Just add the curb width x2 to for the final numbers.

My rigs lives in uncovered storage and I know my skylights will crumble if disturbed. Destructive removal just for measurement just won't work for me.

[Ag&Au]

Originally Posted by Westfalia

Does anyone have the width of the curb material?

You should be able to measure from the inside if you remove the plastic trim. Just add the curb width x2 to for the final numbers.

My rigs lives in uncovered storage and I know my skylights will crumble if disturbed. Destructive removal just for measurement just won't work for me.

I'm guessing you won’t want to hear this, but I am going to say it for my own peace of conscience.

These skylight curbs vary in exact dimensions, construction materials and construction methods from year to year, model to model and perhaps from trailer to trailer.

I made the mistake of ordering what Maxim said were the stock skylights. They both were too small by a fraction of an inch. Luckily Maxim agreed to replace them at no cost because they had advised me that it was not necessary to measure them. The second ones are nearly too small because it turns out the corners of the curbs are not exactly 90 degrees. I doubt they will replace any more for free.

For these reasons, I strongly urge you to cut covers to fit over the holes out of plywood Plexiglas or such. Remove the old skylights. Accurately check the outside measurements and verify that the corners are square with a framing square or the like. Then cover the openings and tape the covers in place.

Just my advice,

Ken

[Westfalia]

No, that is great advice and sound judgement. I hadn't though much about the hole not being square. I guess I'll just have to make plans for the top to be open for an extended time. What was the turn around time on the new skylights?

[Ag&Au]

Originally Posted by Westfalia

No, that is great advice and sound judgement. I hadn't though much about the hole not being square. I guess I'll just have to make plans for the top to be open for an extended time. What was the turn around time on the new skylights?

It was approximately a week. If I remember correctly, They were finished about 3 days after I placed the order and then a few more days for shipping. One thing is for sure, they were well worth the investment.

Ken

[Silverbee]

We just picked up our 2012 25ft. Rear BR Flying Cloud-owned a 2007 20ft.Safari SE for 5 years. After reading this entire thread I am of the opinion that we should go ahead and replace the skylight(only one in this model) with the BCC Maxim. Any thoughts are appreciated.

[Westfalia]

Do it now or do it later. The stock skylights WILL fail within 2-3 years. Any resulting water leaks should be avoided now.

[starcraft]

This is same product you use on boats in transom area. Say you drill rear for new fishfinder. Standard procedure is to either squirt stuff in holes or slather bolt threads before installing. How come airstream would half arse and just slather on top bolt head lol. Use 5200 when you never plan on taking appart again. 4200 is lighter duty but still works fine and is easier to remove. Is there another product in clear I can use on all bolt threads thinking trying parabond clear. Wow just remembered my boat dealer has Lifeseal in clear similar to 3m

[Flying Gypsies]

You will love the BBC- sooooooo much better than original- keep us posted

[Flying Gypsies]

Darn iphone- i actually like the BCC the best- more natural light

[PaulAir]

Thanks Kevin! Such a superior product! After poking around, I found that both the skylight and vent fan were leaking, so both needed to go. They want $150 for the stock skylight... it's a true pos. You'd think, if buying one new, that they put some quality components on such a high $$ trailer.

I ordered the 25% light passage version and are happy with that to get more light inside, but will need to insulate or put an outside cover on during the summer.

Anybody know of an external cover available like the A/C covers?

Here's the materials and picture progression... Getting the old stuff off took the most time!

1) 3M speciality adheasive remover
2) Sikaflex 221 for the screw holes and gasket on the curb for the skylight
3) 3M Marine Adhesive/Sealant Fast Cure 4000 UV for the curb seal
4) Crown Bolt #10 x 1" self tapping metal fasteners (1 1/4s wern't necessary)
5) EDPM washers from the Palram wood screws

And a few pictures:

[cammur]

In understanding the Maxim PDF in Kevin's Post 11, it helps to realize it is only showing what you get from Maxim.

The wide flat horizontal pieces shown left and right go all the way around the skylight, and rest via gravity on the trailer skylight curb. You attach it to the curb with a sealant (Airstream is now using AdSeal rather than Sikaflex). In addition, there are three screw holes in each of the four sides of the skylight. You need to drill matching holes in the curb. I used #10 x 1" SS Hex machine screws from Home Depot to attach the skylight securely to the sides of the curb.

I had only two real problems with Kevin's very fine procedure. On my 25' Safari the air conditioner sits too close to the curb to allow me to drill the needed curb holes on that one side. I'm counting on the other nine screws being sufficient, combined with the sealant on all four sides. It really feels quite solid and I'm not concerned.

Oh, the other problem? While working on the skylight I noticed the caulking was separating on the nearby Fantastic Fan. I removed the caulk on the offending side and found numerous very rusty half-inch #10 wood screws securing the frame of the fan box to the trailer. The frame is plastic and also had several cracks radiating from the screw holes. One corner was broken off and missing, obviously missing in the original factory installation. Another fine quality job from Airstream.

(I'm sorry this post is appearing so far away from where I intended. Don't know how to correct that.)

[ddstech]

Originally Posted by cammur

In understanding the Maxim PDF in Kevin's Post 11, it helps to realize it is only showing what you get from Maxim.

The wide flat horizontal pieces shown left and right go all the way around the skylight, and rest via gravity on the trailer skylight curb. You attach it to the curb with a sealant (Airstream is now using AdSeal rather than Sikaflex). In addition, there are three screw holes in each of the four sides of the skylight. You need to drill matching holes in the curb. I used #10 x 1" SS Hex machine screws from Home Depot to attach the skylight securely to the sides of the curb.

I had only two real problems with Kevin's very fine procedure. On my 25' Safari the air conditioner sits too close to the curb to allow me to drill the needed curb holes on that one side. I'm counting on the other nine screws being sufficient, combined with the sealant on all four sides. It really feels quite solid and I'm not concerned.

Oh, the other problem? While working on the skylight I noticed the caulking was separating on the nearby Fantastic Fan. I removed the caulk on the offending side and found numerous very rusty half-inch #10 wood screws securing the frame of the fan box to the trailer. The frame is plastic and also had several cracks radiating from the screw holes. One corner was broken off and missing, obviously missing in the original factory installation. Another fine quality job from Airstream.

(I'm sorry this post is appearing so far away from where I intended. Don't know how to correct that.)

I was up on the rooftop myself the other day and noticed that the vulkem I used to seal my fantastic fan was also cracking that I out on there a year ago. Does vulkem not have good uv properties?

[PaulAir]

Originally Posted by cammur

Oh, the other problem? While working on the skylight I noticed the caulking was separating on the nearby Fantastic Fan. I removed the caulk on the offending side and found numerous very rusty half-inch #10 wood screws securing the frame of the fan box to the trailer. The frame is plastic and also had several cracks radiating from the screw holes. One corner was broken off and missing, obviously missing in the original factory installation. Another fine quality job from Airstream.

(I'm sorry this post is appearing so far away from where I intended. Don't know how to correct that.)

I'd suggest getting a new fan frame and replace the damaged one. Fantastic should have provided stainless hardware. The crack is probably the result of screwing it down in the corners and not leaving a gap. My frame has around a 3/16" gap at the corners, but flush in the center. The gaps are filled and supported by butal tape and caulk.

I recommend:
3M Marine Adhesive/Sealant Fast Cure 4000 UV
The stuff is made for boats, so I think it's appropriate for our land barges!

[Alumitater]

The saying about traversing a minefield was one my father taught me. Sage advise I followed when faced with a skylight leak in our 07 Safari. Let me begin by thanking Bambi Bandit for marking the trail thru the minefield so clearly. I just completed installation of my new Maxim skylight, and wanted to share some observations.

Followed Bandit's instructions and they worked flawlessly. Only new twist was I found using a single edge razor paint removal tool to help "cut" thru the silicone easily. And I used a plastic putty knife to remove the silicone on the painted roof surface which worked very well and did not scratch the paint.

Thanks also for guiding me to Maxim. Great folks to work with (David and Liz) and the quality of the skylight is outstanding. Price up a bit from Bandit's experience, mine ran about $250 delivered, but well worth it.

I also ended up using AdSeal silicone adhesive which Airstream now uses and sells through the store. It is a humidity cure sealant, which Maxim recommended vs a solvent cure (which can attack the skylight components so I'm told by David at Maxim).

I will share that once I pealed the silicone from screws securing the factory skylight I was stunned at the damage done to the dome during installation. The over-torqued screws at three corners had completely destroyed the integrity of the dome. The fact it did not leak worse than it did is a testament to the silicone Airstream was using at the time. I will let the photos speak for the workmanship.

The last photo shows the new Maxim skylight installed.

Again, tip of the old hat to Bandit for forging the trail.

[Steelegood]

WOW! That's about all I can say. What an outstanding job you did thanks for the pictures and tips!

Terry

[Alumitater]

You are most welcome. Again, Bandit did all the hard trailblazing. I just followed.

[damonbeals]

I just emailed for a quote and the current prices for the 22.25 x 22.25 is $252 and the 17.25 x 25.25 is $208, turn around time is 12 days.

Damon
#4827

[2dabeach]

Alumitater...... I'm planning to order a Maxim for my 2007 Safari 25' FB. What size skylight did you order for your 2007 Safari 25' FB ?

[Alumitater]

Good morning.

I ordered a 22.25" X 22.25", which was their part number 2323DCMBBCBA, curb mount, bronze/bronze domes, clear flat panel, bronze anodized finish. As I am recalling, they only offered two sizes for Airstream trailers, one which was square and one rectangular, but I may be incorrect on that (if it was more than yesterday, memory fades quickly....age thing I guess).

The folks at Maxim were great to work with and the product is outstanding.

We have been really pleased with our choice. I no longer have to use the sliding shade to protect from heat gain in the trailer, and really enjoy the light it adds. The bronze domes were a good choice for heat protection for us here on the Gulf Coast, and we have the Stratus color scheme (which is basically tans and browns) so the color of light it emits fits nicely.

Holler back if I may be of any further assistance. You will be most pleased with your efforts and replacement skylight.

[SuperTrouper]

Vinnie is here to put in my new Maxims yea!