Installing soil stack covers

[Will Ackerman]

I received two new soil stack covers, (roof jack) today from Inland RV ,and i can't figure out how to install them. The angles are different then the old one.The soil pipe will not correctly line up with top of (square hole) of new cover. Do i fill up the cavity with calk? Do i extend soil stack and rase roof jack to compensate for wrong angle?
The old plastic cover has a 5"x5" base more or less.The new one measures 4.5x4.5, i have some rivet holes to fill in . What would you recommend? Thanks Will

[TomW]

Originally Posted by Will Ackerman

I received two new soil stack covers, (roof jack) today from Inland RV ,and i can't figure out how to install them. The angles are different then the old one.The soil pipe will not correctly line up with top of (square hole) of new cover. Do i fill up the cavity with calk? Do i extend soil stack and rase roof jack to compensate for wrong angle?
The old plastic cover has a 5"x5" base more or less.The new one measures 4.5x4.5, i have some rivet holes to fill in . What would you recommend? Thanks Will

Although I'm told those covers are the only thing Airstream uses now, I don't care much for them. To me, the old plastic design should have been re-made with better material. They were smaller, lighter, less obtrusive, and a better design.

Now on to your problem To start with, I believe the only thing that should be between the cover & the roof is the gasket, screen, and Vulkem i.e. no shimming for wrong angle. The proper orientation of the cover is where the drain holes will drain. On mine, the stack was completely hidden by the cover. If it had not been, I would have trimmed it.

When I had to replace my hopelessly busted plastic stack cover with one of the new ones, I removed the old one & used mineral spirits to clean all the old tar off. The new cover was then fitted to see if any of the existing rivet holes were reusable (don't remember if any were). The unusable rivet holes that were covered by the new cover were then then filled with Vulkem-dipped pop rivets. I then Vulkemed the gasket area, and gap between the stack & roof. The screen was then fitted, then the gasket, then the cover. The cover was then fastened with Vulkem-dipped Olympic rivets. I also Vulkemed around the cover after trimming the gasket.

Hope this helps,
Tom

[Will Ackerman]

Thanks Tom, first let me say howdy neighbor,from Fayetteville, TN. I will use 1/8 neopreme tubing and slip it over the pipe(o ring) i will use vallum<spelling> calk,around o ring. I have found this As, list to be very helpful. Thanks again Will

[Wardinbb]

Originally Posted by tcwilliams

.
Now on to your problem To start with, I believe the only thing that should be between the cover & the roof is the gasket, screen, and Vulkem i.e. no shimming for wrong angle. The proper orientation of the cover is where the drain holes will drain. On mine, the stack was completely hidden by the cover. If it had not been, I would have trimmed it.
Hope this helps,
Tom

Hi All,
I’ve been reading the posts on roof vent pipe sealing and am now not only a bit confused but have a question as well. My roof pipe vent covers appear to be original issue with a very low profile with the vent pipe flush with the roof. Evidently other people have roof vent pipes that extend above the roof.



Inland Andy’s step by step directions make perfect sense to me in terms of procedure. This sandwich type construction of the sealing process, if I’ve got this right, is the screen goes over the vent pipe. The hole in the rubber sheet gasket fits around the vent pipe on top of the screen. Vulkem is applied around the pipe to seal the pipe, rubber and screen as one. The rest of the rubber gasket rests under the flange of the vent pipe cover and the cover is then riveted down to the roof. The rubber is then the seal between the roof pipe cover and the roof. The rubber is trimmed from the flange base to finish.



Regardless of the low profile of my cover plates or the higher profile of the aftermarket metal or plastic covers, and especially with pipes extending above the roof line, isn’t there still a gap between the top edge of the vent cover opening and the rubber gasket that’s sealed to the pipe?

Does the rubber gasket form a tent like structure inside the cover creating a sort of water well from the top of the sealed pipe down to where the rubber meets the flange? The above quote mentions “drain holes”. This I would think solves the water well issue, if it exists, but my covers don’t have any drain holes nor do any of the aftermarket ones I’ve seen. Any comments?

My covers seem to be some sort of 'aluminum pot metal' that I applied some polish to and cleaned right up.
Thanks,
Ed

[Tin Hut]

When I replaced the vent covers on my 67 I drilled a small drain hole on the downhill side of each vent. I also drilled a hole in the side of the kitchen sink vent pipe cover to run a drain tube from my air conditioner thru the cover and down the pipe. My AC did not have a drip tube in the wall so the water would just drip down the side.