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63air · 06-28-2006, 09:45 AM

First of all it did not crack during drilling, it cracked when it was riveted. Also when I called your company I was explicitly told it could not be repaired, why else would I order a second, ( $150 dollars was taking up too much room in my wallet- get real).

If it can be repaired what is the procedure- materials and method, this would be good for others to know in the event that I am not just a statistical anomaly.

The second one cracked about 6 months after installation . the problem was with your product not my installation.

Third time was the charm- I bought a product that I find to be superior to the one you offer and I highly recommend it to others!

Inland RV Center, In · 06-28-2006, 10:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 63air

First of all it did not crack during drilling, it cracked when it was riveted. Also when I called your company I was explicitly told it could not be repaired, why else would I order a second, ( $150 dollars was taking up too much room in my wallet- get real).

If it can be repaired what is the procedure- materials and method, this would be good for others to know in the event that I am not just a statistical anomaly.

The second one cracked about 6 months after installation . the problem was with your product not my installation.

Third time was the charm- I bought a product that I find to be superior to the one you offer and I highly recommend it to others!

What kind of rivets did you use?

The pictured solvent would repair your cover if it was cracked in half...

Again, no one has ever reported the problem you had.

Andy

dwightdi · 06-28-2006, 01:12 PM

They cost lots of money. You can make up one from corregated Lexan cheaper and it will be more durable. It however will not look original.

walter1 · 06-28-2006, 01:51 PM

Dwight and Brad,
Nice ideas.
Do you happen to have dimensions of the lexan and aluminum pieces you used?
Do your covers let sunlight in?

63air,
Does your Vintage Trailer Supply cover let sunlight in as original does?

Anyone found metal grommets the right size for the screen, where the control knob shaft goes?

Walter1

63air · 06-28-2006, 03:26 PM

The rivets for the second one came from you (Inland )with the new dome. Again, let me reiterate , there never any mention of any product available for a repair. As to where they cracked , first one by the attachment point, second one - all over.

As to the issue of letting in light, the fiberglass is white gel coat and so it is somewhat translucent. Really, this is a moot point when you consider my trailer has 6 windows, 12v, and 120v systems. Light is not a problem!

markdoane · 06-28-2006, 05:25 PM

The gelcoat astradome that Vintage Trailer Supply sells is a very nice unit.

Although it doesn't let any light through, that may be a good thing if you like to sleep beyond the crack of dawn.

Regarding the operators themselves, I can't see how spreading the bracket apart will accomplish much, as the square shaft won't fit though the opening in the bracket.

I found if I pry out the pin at the top, the spiral guts come out of the barrel and everything is easy to clean and recondition with a little mineral spirits. Good as new, without bending nothin'.

S C Streamer · 06-28-2006, 08:10 PM

Following Darol's instructions, I replaced the vent lid with operators attached, to the vent opening frame in about 3 minutes. No drilling or hack saw, it was so simple and I couldn't figure it out

. Thanks Darol

markdoane,

What I was trying to do was attach the complete operator " A " to the existing frame brackets " B ".

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But now I know how to disassemble the operator , thanks for the help,

Mark

flyfshr · 06-28-2006, 08:45 PM

Of course my skylight let's light in, both pieces of lexan are clear. The birds like to dive bomb it and leave a mess. Sometimes I wish it wasn't so clear but then I wouldn't be able to see the stars at night.

Brad
FF

flyfshr · 06-29-2006, 07:42 AM

Here's a couple of shots taken this morning before the sun was completely up. Remember, I replaced the regular metal screen with a shade cloth so it actually shows better than represented here in these photos. As I said, the birds like the skylight as a target.

Brad
FF

walter1 · 06-29-2006, 08:35 AM

Brad, your plan looks good, thanks for the drawing.

Did you use 2" angle for outside frame and 1" for inside?

How did you construct the corners of the outside frame?

flyfshr · 06-29-2006, 09:57 AM

The outside frame is 1" aluminum angle and the inside frame is 1/2". As for the corners, I cut a 90 degree piece at a 45 degree angle out of the top part of the angle. I'm sure this is very confusing, so I'll submit a diagram later today. Shhhhh - I'm at work at the moment.

Brad
FF

walter1 · 06-29-2006, 01:31 PM

Thanks Brad....drawing would help when you have time, I think your plan is the answer...oh yeah....quiet, we're "working".
walter

flyfshr · 06-29-2006, 01:43 PM

Hopefully this diagram will explain how this went together. I seamed the ends together in the center of the back frame and riveted another piece of the 1" angle to the one underneath. I ended up needing to make a second one because the first was slightly too small to fit the frame on the trailer. The second one went much easier as I got better at making these corners. This one took a couple of hours. I've been very pleased with the results and it has held up for 5 years so far.

Brad
FF

walter1 · 06-29-2006, 03:57 PM

Oh I see the light. Guess I'm a visual guy. Great drawings, that makes it clear as...sunlight.

So, on the frame back center you have a short piece of additional 1” angle riveted to hold the frame together?
Any sealant used in corners?
Any trouble aligning or attaching the crank mechanisms?

Now that you have this down I'd bet you could whip one out in less than an hour for mine, eh?

The learning curve is about to go vertical again as I begin to learn to cut 45 degree corners.. I'm going for it.

Thanks, this helps a lot.
Walter

flyfshr · 06-29-2006, 05:42 PM

Actually, I used a full length additional piece the whole width of the rear frame to better distribute the stress. I used a bit of Vulkem on each corner, inside and out. The vent lift mechanisms were attached with long rivets that went through both pieces of aluminum and both pieces of lexan.

BTW - when you bend the aluminum frame after cutting out the 90 degree piece, bend it against the edge of a square laminated work surface to keep the bend flat and at 90 degrees.

I had to do this on my own, I think you should to. Be a great way to build your aluminum confidence. Gor for it.

Brad
FF

walter1 · 06-30-2006, 02:00 PM

Brad, you've made the journey into sheetmetal fabrication land much easier. I'm going to try to build one. Thanks for the guidance.
Walter

flyfshr · 06-30-2006, 02:05 PM

Glad to help Walter. I'll want to see pictures of your completed project by next weekend.

Brad
FF

GreatPumpkin · 07-13-2006, 09:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flyfshr

The one I made is very similar to Dwight's but I used two sheets of lexan with a dead air space between to act as a thermal barrier against the AZ sun. I also replaced the screen with shade cloth. Makes a tremendous difference.

Here's a cross section.

Brad
FF

Brad where did you get the lexan? I'm planning on duplicating your skylight - it looks great - I can't see paying the $$$ Inland wants. I also want to get a piece to replace the oem corrugated front window rock guard.

flyfshr · 07-13-2006, 10:25 PM

I bought my lexan from home Depot but would imagine any of the big box home center store would have. Make your frame, measure the inside and take your measurements to the home center, they will most likely cut two sheets to size for you. Couldn't be easier.

Brad
FF