Vista View Window Questions

[CBWELL]

Have done the window tint replacement on the dual pane mainwindows, (thanks a lot to Zep and other posters) have done the stack windows (with the lexan inners) and am ready to tackle the Vista's. I bought a dual pane vist to use as a quick replacement as soon as I took one out, but am having a lot of trouble disassembling the frame. Have drilled out the 4 pop rivets on each side of the frame, but there does not seem to be a solid aluminum block to hold the two halves together, as the main windows have. Am afraid to drill to deep into the frame as the glass is right there. Has anybody taken the frame apart on a Vista View??? Have searched the threads and all I see is fear, and instructions on how to remove the inner pane by breaking and going with only one pane. Would like to have the dual pane if at all possible. Thanks to anyone that can help. Trailer is a 1976 Soverign 31'.

[desertair27]

I'm hoping someone will chime in and give you some good advice for your windows.I read somewhere on this forum that the inner window is plexiglass on some trailers. This guy built a template from wood and used a router to cut the plexiglass nice and neat.I think ours is glass, but wouldnt it be nice if we could cut the glass.

[azflycaster]

The ones in my 75 TW come apart by removing the ring around the window on the inside of the trailer. The ring is split at the bottom and with a little work it can be taken out. The inner glass (plexi) can then be removed to get to the outer glass.

[CBWELL]

The true dual pane glass vist views are different from the plexiglass inners like the lower stack windows that I have redone. The unit is held together with an aluminum frame that is split top and bottom. As I mentioned in the first post, there are 4 pop rivets at each joint, 2 on each side of the joint. I have drilled out these rivets, but there is not a solid aluminum block in the frame like the dual pane glass operating windows. Has anyone taken apart a true dual pane glass vista view window? Any adviced or help appreciated. Thanks

[VeggieBullet]

Hi CBWell.
Did you get figured this out?
We are in the same situation.
Any news?

[tlynn87]

i also am in the same boat as you CBWELL and veggiebullet!! i would like to be able to leave the windows in place and just remove the inside glass pane if at all possible... i am going to search the forums and post back if i find anything. Have either of you any advise so far??

[CBWELL]

It is still winter up here in the great white north, and trailer is in storage. The spare window I bought will be experimented on this week to try and get apart. Will update when it is apart or broken trying!!!

[esmaytum]

I got mine apart with a painters tools. I used the hooked side to pull the stinky stuff out while spaying in with WD40. It was 100 degrees when I did it so the stuff was soft. Mine had glass on the outside and plex on the inside . after I scraped the old film off and refilmed it I only put the glass back . I looks great and it doesn't leak.

[CBWELL]

Finally got the dual pane GLASS vista view apart. Tried pulling, wedging, and everyother movement I could think of to try and get the frame apart. No luck. Talked to a buddy of mine, went to his shop, and put the complete window in a tray and covered completely with laquer thinner and left over night. By morning, all of the rubber and sealant was either gone or soft. Still could not pull the frame apart. Took a very fine hacksaw blade and cut where frames joined on top and bottom. Very careful not to touch glass. Cut through both top and bottom frames and everything came apart. I can see why the frames would not come apart. There were 2 steel jointers on both the top and bottom holding the frames together. Over the years a small amount of moisture has gotten into the frame, along with the natural reaction with dissimilar metals, the steel was in the frames solid. Two days of penetraing fluid and I was able to get the steel out.
Next problem is to source the rubber gasket that goes around the glass and seals in the frame. Outer glass is going for tint this week and hopefully I can find the gasket. Now have a window to replace as soon as I remove the frame from the trailer, in the spring when out of storage. By the way, I was working on a spart window that I bought for the purpose of experimenting. Will try to post some pictures of the process.

[desertair27]

Good job man! I have the same VV windows, one has about an inch of water in it while all the other have the ugly window tint. Can't wait for pictures and more info.
Thanks for posting!

[CBWELL]

Got the trailer home last week and just about ready to start the first window. Found the window gasket at C.R.Laurence Co. Inc, 5/8 adapter Glazing Vinyl #WV3866 (available in black only). The rivet shaver arrived today from Andy, and I found an adhesive/caulking to use instead of Vulkem. Talked to an industrial supplier of Vulkem, and he recomended a product made by Simpson, #ISR 70-03, which they are supplying to bus builders in Winnipeg. I am told that it is superior to Vulkem, and being in the building industry, am familiar with Simpson products. Got the tinting done on the exterior pane, so am about ready to go. Stop the rain!!! Don't have a shop to work in so will have to use poly to cover the opening. Will try to get pictures up soon.

[moparjohn]

Can't wait too see, I also will be doing this soon. MPJ

[OilnH2o]

Raining here in Montana the last 6 weeks - then it probably heads your way! And, rain this morning. All this to let you know that I, too, am facing this problem and hoping you'll plough (or, plow!) the ground so we can all reap the rewards of your hard work. Thanks for taking on this window issue. I have both the bubbled tint liner on some windows, and some of the seal migrating - that's the best word I can think of -- out of its channel into the area between the inner and outer panes. Then there is the window with a two-inch high water mark that says there was once a lot of water in that one! Thanks for your efforts.

[CBWELL]

Well, the first window is done. Total time about 8 hours.

This is what I started with.

Window out and the fun starts!

Reglazing

Glass back together. Used butyl pre shimmed 3/16", and had the glass tinted to 55%, same as I did with the lower windows.

Used the new vinyl gasket, and spray silicone to put glass back in frame.
I had to cut the frame apart at the join in the centre both top and bottom. They had used a steel joint bar to hold the frames together and they were rusted solid. I simply cut from the outside inward very carefully until they were cut through without touching the glass. Did not have any luck removing the steel, even after soaking for 2 days with penetrating oil, and even tried heating to remove them. When I reassembled, I held the frames together with a flat aluminum plate, both top and bottom, drilled to match the 2 rivet holes on each side of the joint, when clamped together. I simply put in 2 rivets on each side temporarily (not crimped) to hold the frame together when puting back in the opening.

When putting the window back in I was careful to return to the way it was removed, so all the rivet holes lined up. The factory originally used a white foam gasket between the window frame and the exterior skin. I found a replacement 1/16"x 1/2" wide black, almost neoprene type single sided adhesive gasket. Attached the adhesive side to the frame before reinserting window in opening. Also drilled the gasket so the holes in skin could be easily found. I inserted all the required rivets before doing any riveting to make sure everything lined up.

Here is the window totally finished. The rivet shaver from Andy was a god send. Would not even try to do the job without it. Outside sealing was done with Simpson ISR 70-03 caulking. This product was recomended by the local industrial supply store. They also sell Vulkem, but the 2 major bus manufacturers in Winnipeg have found this product works best on their aluminum bodied busses. ONE DOWN, FOUR TO GO!
The project took longer to complete because of the weather, and not having an inside shop to work in. Next window will probably go a lot quicker, as I don't have to take as much time to think things out. This time I will use a .250 butyl preshimmed between the glass, as I was not totally happy with the spacing of the window in the frame.
I hope the pictures come through. Computer work is a lot harder than working on an Airstream

[Distantdrummer]

Am enjoying your thread on the V-View repairs.

Especially interested in the caulk you have used.
Have you ever applied Vulkem anywhere? I ask so that if so, you might give us a comparison to the properties and application "ease" or lack of it of both (relative to each other). How about clean-up of the Simpson?
What color is it and do you think the opened tube will have any shelf-life at all? Are you keeping it in a refrigerator? Or does a vista view take a whole tube? or more..?

Also I hope you will follow up when enough time has gone by to judge the setting and such results.
BTW what is the approx cost of the stuff?
I am assuming it comes in standard caulk tube size ?? Would that be correct?

Thanks

[CBWELL]

I have never used Vulkem. When I first went to the industrial supply in Winnipeg to get Vulkem, the sales person I talked to said they had Vulkem, but their customers had switched to the Simpson product. The color is grey, and I have used it to do all of the necesssary recaulking on the trailer for the last 3 years. Very easy to work with, comes in a standard size caulking tube, and the cost is $9.72 a tube. It cleans up very easy, sets up quite quickly, and if used sparingly and properly little cleanup is required. I use a nail in the end of the tube and wrap the end with plastic and seal with an elastic band. I have had a tube still useable after 2 years, just sitting in the shop. The caulking around a Vista uses very little, probably 1 tube will do all 5, and I will still have some left over.
This product is not only a sealer, but has adhesive properties as well. I work in the building material industry, so have contacts with many industrial suppliers, which really helps when doing this type of project. And if all else fails, "Ask Andy".