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Old 08-01-2005, 03:18 PM   #1
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The awful window locks on the Classics..

We have a 2005 30' Classic and some of the windows are so hard to lock. I am talking about the little silver things that you "push" down to lock the windows.
In the bedroom for the emergency exit, the ones we have are colored red and they are some easy to open and close.

Is there someting that I can do to the locks, to close them without killing my hands?

Thanks,
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Old 08-01-2005, 03:30 PM   #2
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Yup! Trade me for my Safari windows!
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Old 08-01-2005, 03:39 PM   #3
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No thanks. We had the 2004 Safari Bambi. The windows didn't provide much air. I like the windows in the Classic but want an easy lock option. I am sure there is a fix, a spray or something to make it easier....

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Old 08-01-2005, 04:22 PM   #4
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You can open a window; go around on the outside; and adjust the nuts on the threaded rod outward slightly so that there is less pressure pulling the window inward.

I haven't done this for some time, but if I remember rightly, there is a double not so that it takes two wrenches to make the adjustment. Hold the inner nut, loosen the outer nut a turn, loosen the inner nut a turn, and then snug down the outer nut again.

It will not require a lot of adjustment, just enough that the window is not pulled inward against the seals quite so hard.
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Old 08-01-2005, 05:41 PM   #5
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Pahaska told me long ago how to make those adjustments. IF you put too much pressure on the bottoms of the windows (where the latches are) you can get a gap at the top.... I learned this the hard way/wet way in LA last spring. Just get them snug.
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Old 08-01-2005, 06:56 PM   #6
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I put silicone on the gaskets so they won't stick. You have to clean the glass really well where the seal presses before you silicone the rubber gasket.
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Old 08-01-2005, 10:38 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonia
Is there someting that I can do to the locks, to close them without killing my hands?
Sonia ...

When the windows are open ... go outside and spray the threads of the locks with some silicone spray ... then go back inside and work the levers back and forth a few times. You'll feel the difference.
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Old 08-02-2005, 05:51 AM   #8
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Porky's right

leave it to a pig to tell you to get greased. Service tech used wd40 on mine and said I should never be without it. Made a HUGE difference, I was surprised.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Porky Pig
Sonia ...

When the windows are open ... go outside and spray the threads of the locks with some silicone spray ... then go back inside and work the levers back and forth a few times. You'll feel the difference.
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Old 08-02-2005, 06:07 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonia
No thanks. We had the 2004 Safari Bambi. The windows didn't provide much air. I like the windows in the Classic but want an easy lock option. I am sure there is a fix, a spray or something to make it easier....

Sonia
Had to give it a shot.
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Old 08-02-2005, 07:55 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonia
We have a 2005 30' Classic and some of the windows are so hard to lock. I am talking about the little silver things that you "push" down to lock the windows.
In the bedroom for the emergency exit, the ones we have are colored red and they are some easy to open and close.

Is there someting that I can do to the locks, to close them without killing my hands?

Thanks,
Sonia
You can try the lube that Porky noted. If that doesn't help then the advice from Pahaska is the next thing you need to do. I have two tight windows on my Classic which need adjustment since they are knuckle busters in closing, just like yours. In my case I know that lube isn't the answer since the latch itself is free and easy to move with the window open. I'll be doing that adjustment this weekend.

Jack
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Old 08-02-2005, 09:05 AM   #11
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Thanks to all the responses. I will try some of the suggestions this weekend.


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Old 08-02-2005, 11:56 AM   #12
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Instead of silicone spray or WD-40, I used a Du Pont teflon-based liquid lubricant (Home Depot, $4 or so). It doesn't attract dirt and it probably will last longer than WD-40. The latches on my 77 Argosy were so rusty they barely moved but after a quick squirt of this stuff they all work like new.
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Old 08-02-2005, 02:19 PM   #13
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Actually .. I went and checked ... I ran out of silicone spray so I picked up a can of SuperLube Multi-Purpose Synthetic Lubricant with Syncolon® while visiting a marine hardware store in Anacortes, WA.

The can states the product is good for anything that slides, swivels, rolls or squeaks. And is authorized for use in federally inspected meat and poultry plants.
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Old 08-02-2005, 06:40 PM   #14
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Our hospital equipment repair folks abhor WD-40. It is a light oil, never evaporates and always attracts more dirt. Silicone stays slippery after the vehicle (usually water) evaporates.

Syncolon? Sounds like an anagram of silicone. Reminds me of a fish tank nutritional supplement that tried to disguise why it cost $4 for a couple grams -- one of the 'mysterious' ingredients was 'sodii hypo phosphis.' Anybody going by the DQ in Mora, MN should stop there for an old-fashioned chocolate soda! For less than $4 you get a tall glass! (It's not on the menu board -- gotta ask special.) There is enough area to park your towed rig while running in...

John Irwin does it again -- something to file for my Safari-to-be's Classic style windows!
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Old 08-02-2005, 06:40 PM   #15
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Synthetic Lubricant with Syncolon? What do you think Syncolon is made from.....
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Old 08-02-2005, 07:01 PM   #16
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In looking at this thread I see there are a few misconceptions as to WD40.
WD40 is not a good choice for lubrication for anything subjected to heat, light or dirt. WD40 will attract dust and become sticky from dust. WD40 breaks down and becomes a soild mass, which will jam anything it touches.
First Hand knowlage "Don't use it".

As others have said, a good Teflon or Silicone based lube is the way to go.
I have used a product called Tri-Flow for many years in industrial use without any gumming occuring. Tri-Flow is a Teflon type lube.

Another type of lube which works great is Coloidal Graphite like "Lock Ease"
The only problem with this is graphite is messy if touched. It is my choice for use on enclosed shafts.
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Old 08-02-2005, 07:59 PM   #17
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i find LPS #2 to work fine. light oil that doesn't dry out. excellent corrosion resistance.

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Old 08-02-2005, 09:31 PM   #18
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window locks, lubes and video tapes......

hi sonya and others

those "awful" window locks have been on airstreams a mightly long time.....at least 30 years. they are simple to service, provide a positive locking mechanism and owner adjustable when new or as they wear or the gaskets wear or as the frames wear.

for old streams it's nice to know that the parts are still in use and readily available.....and that the windows can be closed tightly with this simple mechanism.

i've noticed that the red painted versions....a result of "safety" improvements are more prone to stick. i think it's because the metal on metal surface is fouled by paint. the most proper correction therefore, is to remove the handle (use an allen wrench) sand the paint off the friction surface and re-attach.

for a simplier solution or on the non painted variety.....
first make sure the contact surfaces are clean...open the window, go outside and inspect the latch mechanism. open and close it several times and rotate from latched to unlatched positions....open an close lots more.

yes they might need adjusting but usually this is an issue as they wear and need to be tightened some.....seldom do new ones need loosening if properly cleaned and lubed. yes they are tight on new trailers...but that's how they are supposed to be.

because the mechanism is metal on metal, silicone is not the ideal long term lube. a much better choice is graphite or dry ptfe or a light oil....one drop is all that's needed....just make sure the lube gets to the proper surfaces. again when you inspect closely the location is obvious for the "handle closed" position.

if on the other hand the issue is turning the handle, first determine if the handle turns freely when the window is open....if not... lube the threads. if the handles turn freely when the window is open but not when securing the window, they may need adjusting....or a drop of lube/graphite on the flat hook where it engages the window clasp may solve the problem.

again try everything (cleaning and lubing) BEFORE adjusting the lock nut/lever........because if you fail to get the latch properly tighten, after adjusting, it may come loose/off during travel. having a window flop open and shatter is a more "awful" problem than a sticky latch.

while spray lubes are popular, all of the sprays tend to scatter onto the window itself and make them messy. then if you "spray" the glass area with window cleaner, you end up removing the lube during cleaning...so back to square one.

better to apply whatever lube in a droplet form to avoid getting the glass messing at all. try to lube just the metal friction/contact surfaces.

candle wax or bar soap can also be used for the lube with the added benifit of not attracking dirt and washing away if rain gets on the latches.

as for wd-40.....yes there are lots of myths about it....becoming a "solid mass" is a new one.....and i doubt that can happen.....especially since most of the useful properties of wd are a result of it solvent character......

if the window latching mechanisms happen to get soaked with water that's eactly when wd-40 would be most useful.......

the 'wd' stands for "water dispersant" and represents the original purpose of the product.....to 'disperse/displace water' from metal and surfaces/contact points that might oxidize or otherwise deteriorate when exposed to water. the wd 40 displaces the water and replaces it with a light, volitile, short lived lubricantand solvent and anti-corrosive film.

for those interested the wd40.com website is interesting and fun. so is the list of 2000 (and growing) uses for wd-40....

http://www.twbc.org/wd40.htm


good luck with those window latches!!

cheers
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Old 08-03-2005, 05:08 AM   #19
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Quote:
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Synthetic Lubricant with Syncolon? What do you think Syncolon is made from.....
Umm....Breaking the word into its two major parts. Syn...Colon...Not sure I want to go there...
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Old 02-10-2022, 06:29 PM   #20
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and with that, the thread ended. For in the end all threads end…
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