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09-27-2013, 04:23 PM
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#1
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2 Rivet Member
1979 Argosy Minuet 6.7 Metre
San Antonio
, Texas
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 46
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Replacing window gasket
I am in the process of pulling off each window to remove the old rotted gasket and replace with new.
My questions is, how clean does the window frame need to be? The old gasket is a bear to get off in some places and leaves behind some rubber and adhesive. I tried some denatured alcohol and tried scrapping, but it do all that much. Any ideas out there?
Thank you for any help, it is all appreciated!
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09-27-2013, 05:49 PM
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#2
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2 Rivet Member
1985 34.5' Airstream 345
Centennial
, Colorado
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 21
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I just did 4 out of 5 windows on a '79 Excella motorhome. Tried everything but just had to pick all the adhesive and gasket parts out. On the last one I'm going to try a heat gun to see if everything softens up and comes out easier. I actually cleaned everything out about 99% because I didn't want to have to go back and do it all over again. If you try a heat gun let us know how well it works. No adhesive cleaner I tried helped much or at all. Good luck
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09-29-2013, 11:51 AM
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#3
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2 Rivet Member
1999 25' Safari
Adair
, Oklahoma
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 93
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I just finished replacing a window gasket on our 1974 Sovereign and here is how I did it. Hopefully, you have your window on a work bench. I used a wallpaper knife to cut away the old gasket by running it down the sides of the gasket as close to the aluminum frame as possible. This will leave a thin piece of the gasket you will have to remove. I used a "fine" wire wheel on a drill and a Roto Zip on LOW speed along with a scraping tool to remove as much of the rest of the gasket as possible. A Dremel tool would probably work better but I only have the Roto Zip. I used McKanica silicone remover to soften the old yellow adhesive. You can buy this at Ace Hardware and the fine wire wheels at Lowes. Mineral spirits and Paint thinner worked but took a little longer to soften the old adhesive. The wire wheel will leave very small groves in the frame but you will cover those with the new gasket plus they give a rough surface for your new adhesive to stick to. A "fine" wheel will leave smaller groves as opposed to other wheels. I did achieve removing 100% of the old gasket and adhesive. I didn't want to have to do this again as Heirstream said. Here is a pic of the tools I used. The blue wire brush is essential to get the last bits of adhesive off. I had to trim it to a "V" to get all the adhesive off. With the window on a bench it's not as difficult as you might think but it does take some time. Good luck with your project.
__________________
Thanks,
Dave
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09-29-2013, 12:01 PM
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#4
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4 Rivet Member
1972 23' Safari
Camas
, Washington
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 258
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takes a bit of elbow grease, we did all of our windows on 72 safari. After we got most of the easy stuff off, we used a plastic bristle brush steel wool and Goo-Gone. Let the GG set for a few minutes then scrub away. Not an easy task but persistence will get it done.
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09-29-2013, 06:51 PM
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#5
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2 Rivet Member
1979 Argosy Minuet 6.7 Metre
San Antonio
, Texas
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 46
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Thanks gang! I'll get back to it as soon as I can, and then send a report!
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09-30-2013, 03:01 PM
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#6
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2 Rivet Member
1967 24' Tradewind
Greenville
, North Carolina
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 38
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I just did this job my rear window last night. After removing most of the seal with a razor blade, I softened up the old seal remnants with brake cleaner (applied with a rag) and then scraped it off with a plastic scraper, which doesn't scrape the aluminum as much. There's a little of the old adhesive left on there, but it's 95% gone. Quite a time-consuming job.
One related question:
Are the window seals supposed to be installed all the way up under the glass bar? All the seals on my trailer are installed like this. For the new seal I just installed, the window doesn't seem to close properly -- it bows out away from the seal, as if it's curved, even though this particular window frame is flat. At its widest point the gap is about 1/8", extremely large.
I'm wondering if installing the seal between the glass bar (at the top of the window) and the frame keeps the hinge from closing all the way and causes this gap? As if the glass is flexing when the window is latched, since the hinge cannot close completely.
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09-30-2013, 04:08 PM
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#7
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Rivet Master
1999 34' Excella
Currently Looking...
Hillsboro
, Texas
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 6,406
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Dremel with flex shaft. Tape around to minimize the "ho-leee shinola" moments.
__________________
Peace and Blessings..
Channing
WBCCI# 30676
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09-30-2013, 06:04 PM
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#8
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2 Rivet Member
1979 Argosy Minuet 6.7 Metre
San Antonio
, Texas
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 46
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WD-40 is my friend! I cut some of the rubber off with a razor blade then used a multi - tool to get most of the rest off. Of course there was still rubber left and LOTS of old yellow adhesive! Using a foam brush, I soaked the leftovers with WD-40...it did an amazing job. There was some scrapping involved, but slow and easy, and I was able to do 3 windows in one day!
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11-07-2013, 05:40 PM
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#9
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2 Rivet Member
1970 27' Overlander
1989 32' Excella
Bay City
, Texas
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 46
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I've got my back window out and running into same Problem with adhesive and will try some of your ideas.My wire wheel a little course.The d-shaped weather stripping from Lowes only had adhesive on one side and the old on two sides.What kind do I need? Does it need to stick on two sides.Appreciate some advice. thanks
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11-07-2013, 05:43 PM
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#10
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Rivet Master
1968 24' Tradewind
Oxford,
, Mississippi
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 1,564
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You can get scotch-brite "bobs" for your dremel tool at HD or maybe Lowe's. I tried all kinds of things when replacing the gaskets on my 68 and the Dremel with the Scotch-Brite worked best.
__________________
__________________
Bruce & Rachel
__________________
68 Trade Wind
2001 Toyota Tundra
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11-07-2013, 09:17 PM
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#11
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Rivet Master
Currently Looking...
Sioux Falls
, South Dakota
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,403
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11-08-2013, 01:29 AM
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#12
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Rivet Master
Commercial Member
1962 19' Globetrotter
1963 19' Globetrotter
1961 19' Globetrotter
Wheat Ridge
, Colorado
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 624
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For best results, in a well vented area, aircraft striper followed by MEK, with the aid of a 3M pad cut into 4" by 4" sections, I find works the best to get down to raw clean aluminum.
__________________
www.VINSTREAM.com
Wheat Ridge, Colorado
WBCCI # 1962
Instagram #Vinstream
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11-08-2013, 07:40 AM
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#13
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by retrocar66
I just did this job my rear window last night. After removing most of the seal with a razor blade, I softened up the old seal remnants with brake cleaner (applied with a rag) and then scraped it off with a plastic scraper, which doesn't scrape the aluminum as much. There's a little of the old adhesive left on there, but it's 95% gone. Quite a time-consuming job.
One related question:
Are the window seals supposed to be installed all the way up under the glass bar? All the seals on my trailer are installed like this. For the new seal I just installed, the window doesn't seem to close properly -- it bows out away from the seal, as if it's curved, even though this particular window frame is flat. At its widest point the gap is about 1/8", extremely large.
I'm wondering if installing the seal between the glass bar (at the top of the window) and the frame keeps the hinge from closing all the way and causes this gap? As if the glass is flexing when the window is latched, since the hinge cannot close completely.
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The window gasket for the 66, 67 and 68 Airstreams, is installed in one piece, on both sides and the bottom of the window frame.
It must "NEVER" be installed at the top where the hinge is located.
Andy
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11-09-2013, 09:00 PM
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#14
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2 Rivet Member
1970 27' Overlander
1989 32' Excella
Bay City
, Texas
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 46
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Does that also apply for a 70 international Andy? If so I will have to remove the gasket from the top before I close it.
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11-09-2013, 09:06 PM
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#15
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by capt ken
Does that also apply for a 70 international Andy? If so I will have to remove the gasket from the top before I close it.
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The window gasket for 1969 and up trailers, goes on all 4 sides as one piece.
The seam must be at the bottom and near the center of each opening window.
Andy
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01-28-2018, 03:19 PM
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#16
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S/O#080
2006 30' Classic S/O
Naples
, Florida
Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 108
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I’m using Motsenbocker’s Lift Off. It is a tape, label and adhesive remover. I removed old gasket, applied remover to rag, wiped down remaining gasket let sit for a few minutes. Used razor blade to complete removal. Lightly sanded area, rubbed down with steel wool. Clean with soapy water dry throughly. Apply new gasket. Is working so far. The test will be how is it holding up in 6 months. In a week or so spray with a silicon spray. Wipe clean in a couple of days.
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07-05-2018, 04:15 PM
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#17
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3 Rivet Member
1971 27' Overlander
Kansas City
, Kansas
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 235
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Use an oscillating tool to remove old gasket then use a good quality paint stripper to remove the old glue. It takes very little time. The oscillating tool gets the gasket off to the glue. The paint stripper dissolves the glue in about 5 minutes.
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07-21-2018, 01:47 PM
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#18
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New Member
1999 25' Safari
Charleston
, South Carolina
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 4
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I have a 99 airstream safari. The back (fire escape) window gasket is dried and allowing leakage. Where do you buy new gasket? Thanks
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