Hehr Window Questions for '58

[mello mike]

The rear window of my Overlander needs replaced due to a poor repair by the PO. I have a few questions. First, how do you remove these Hehr windows? Do I need to remove the drip cap to remove it? I noticed that there's a tiny screw in the center top where the window is attached to the trailer. I assume this has to be removed. Will the window pop out after removing this screw?

Second, this rear window frame leaks like a seive. The water is dripping in at the bottom the frame inside, streetside. On the outside of this frame at the bottom there's a pretty large gap (see the pic). Is this a likely source of the leak? Sure seems like it, but I'm not sure if water can wick sideways.

[pbearsailor]

Mike, I think the 58's had both the Hehr standards and the Clear View Hehrs. Not sure which you have. On my Hehr standards, I can remove the screw at either side of the drip cap, bend it up slightly, and then slide the window out towards the side after removing the lifting hardware.

All of us water experts living in the Pacific Northwet will tell you that water can go up, down, or sideways in order to leak and it can travel miles before it appears inside. Those back windows are bad since they open both as a window and as an emergency escape. Yours looks like it'll leak at that tail light, too.

cheers,
steve

[mello mike]

Originally Posted by pbearsailor

Mike, I think the 58's had both the Hehr standards and the Clear View Hehrs. Not sure which you have. On my Hehr standards, I can remove the screw at either side of the drip cap, bend it up slightly, and then slide the window out towards the side after removing the lifting hardware.

All of us water experts living in the Pacific Northwet will tell you that water can go up, down, or sideways in order to leak and it can travel miles before it appears inside. Those back windows are bad since they open both as a window and as an emergency escape. Yours looks like it'll leak at that tail light, too.

cheers,
steve

Cool, thanks Steve. My drip caps are all riveted along their entire lengths. Looks like I'll need to drill out one rivet to enable me to bend it up slightly like you said. Thanks.

What are the differences between a Hehr Clearview and a stardard Hehr? I think my rear window is a Clearview. It's the only window that I have like it. Pic is attached of my rear window.

As for the water, yes, I know. I lived in Bellingham from 2001-2004. Didn't have an Airstream at the time so I don't have extensive experience with Airstreams and leaks living here in Phoenix.

[flyfshr]

That is definitely a Clear View window Mike. As stated earlier, take out the center screw (don't lose it), remove the window hardware, drill out the end buck rivet on the eyebrow and lift up the corner. The window will then slide out the side. This is easily a one man job. Good luck,

Brad
FF

[mello mike]

Awesome, thanks Brad.

[mello mike]

I just got this window replaced and have a few questions. What prevents water from entering in between the window frame and the trailer. There is a small 1-2/16 inch gap between both. On the VTS website they list a clearview bulb seal for the bottom of the window. However, I don't see where this seals mounts (see pic in post #1).

[n2batr]

Mike, Sounds like your making progress. If you are asking about the bulb seal. You can see it in your first photo Its grey and fits in a channel recessed into the window frame on the body. VTS has the replacement for the clearviews. If I recall I used a flathead screwdriver to push it into the channel. Ed

[mello mike]

Thanks Ed. The existing seal in the window is flat not rounded, so I was wondering if this was the correct seal or not. Does this seal just go on the bottom or on all four sides? The description on the VTS website led me to believe that this seal goes on the bottom only, but on mine, this seal is on all four sides.

[nmbosa]

Mike, the old bulb seal is probably flat and brittle or hard. It was originally round like what you see on VTS. It should go all the way around the window frame (all four sides). The new stuff forms a very nice seal.
Norm

[mello mike]

Thanks, Norm, for clarifying that. Bulb seal now on order. Is this seal easier to install if the screen frame is removed?

I'm not so sure that the seal that is in there now is the correct one. It could be old and flattened but it looks like an incorrect style of seal. No matter, the correct seal is now on order.

[flyfshr]

That black seal doesn't look like the right stuff to me. No matter although it will probably come out easier if its not the right stuff.

Brad
FF

[mello mike]

Thanks Brad. Should I remove the screen frame before installing this seal?

[n2batr]

Mike, That's what I had originally on mine as well. It was a black colored gasket. If you take it out, the bulb one should replace it correctly.Goes in with a little work but should do it. As others said it does go on all four sides. Ed

[mello mike]

Thanks Ed. BTW, would love to see pics of your Overlander. Is yours Ohio or CA built?

[n2batr]

California built double door! I'm replacing some of the lower segment panels currently. Ed

[bwaysteve]

Hey Mike,
It sounds like you solved the problem.Curious though about the bulb seal.Mine are flattened on the 65'too.I was going to use a D style gasket I got from Inland as it supposedly seals better.Now I am wondering if I use both?
Main reason for my post is to inquire as to how you got the top screw out as mine is pretty rusted.Give me the details.Thanks,Steve

[mello mike]

Originally Posted by bwaysteve

Hey Mike,
It sounds like you solved the problem.Curious though about the bulb seal.Mine are flattened on the 65'too.I was going to use a D style gasket I got from Inland as it supposedly seals better.Now I am wondering if I use both?
Main reason for my post is to inquire as to how you got the top screw out as mine is pretty rusted.Give me the details.Thanks,Steve

Hi Steve,
Yes, I had to remove the screw to remove the window (I needed to replace the glass). Mine simply screwed right out. After bending up the end of the drip cap after drilling out the end rivet, the window just slid right out.

I'm not sure if your window is the same style, can you send a pic of the window in question open and closed? The bulb seal for this window is more an air seal than water seal. The window frame has about a one inch inner lip which provides a great barrier for water intrusion. I couldn't put another seal on my window even If I wanted. With the new bulb seal I need help from the outside to close it.