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02-16-2020, 05:50 PM
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#21
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1 Rivet Member
1964 19' Globetrotter
Choctaw
, Oklahoma
Join Date: Jan 2020
Posts: 18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Freedman
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This might be an old thread but these locking clips are still for sale on eBay and just saved me.
I'm restoring a 1964 GT and have to create a window. They are sold in a pack of 10 for $19.95 plus $3 for shipping but you can't find them anywhere.
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02-19-2020, 09:00 PM
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#22
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2 Rivet Member
1965 24' Tradewind
San Diego
, California
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 24
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Does anyone know how to crimp the clips in place in the channel? I have to build my front and rear window frames on my 65’ Tradewind. I bought the same clips off eBay, but also have my old ones. I’ll be using new frame pieces from VTS. I asked them how to stake or crimp the clips to fix them in place. Unfortunately, they didn’t have any solutions. Thanks
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02-20-2020, 08:06 AM
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#23
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Does a bit of everything
1963 30' Sovereign
Bradford
, Vermont
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 7
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Just use a couple little dabs of epoxy, being thoughtful about where you put them.
__________________
-- Tim --
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02-20-2020, 08:15 AM
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#24
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1 Rivet Member
1964 19' Globetrotter
Choctaw
, Oklahoma
Join Date: Jan 2020
Posts: 18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TDHofstetter
Just use a couple little dabs of epoxy, being thoughtful about where you put them.
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That’s an excellent idea because, when my clips come in, I gotta figure out this same issue. I’m YouTubeing my restoral and doing windows now. I’ll post a link when this part is done.
Since the clips are aluminum, I might just braze them into place.
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02-20-2020, 01:45 PM
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#25
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2 Rivet Member
1965 24' Tradewind
San Diego
, California
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 24
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Thanks. Any recommendations on brand/type of epoxy that would work well?
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02-21-2020, 06:05 AM
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#26
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1 Rivet Member
1964 19' Globetrotter
Choctaw
, Oklahoma
Join Date: Jan 2020
Posts: 18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 65TW
Thanks. Any recommendations on brand/type of epoxy that would work well?
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I would use just a two part epoxy that you can get at Lowe’s or homedepot. Not sure if there is a difference but I would look for one that can handle temp changes or outdoor use.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/100670610
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02-25-2020, 11:17 PM
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#27
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2 Rivet Member
1965 24' Tradewind
San Diego
, California
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 24
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Thanks. I’ll check it out. I finished brazing the new sash together tonight from VTS. The profile is slightly different from the original. The top sash is a tight fit in the window frame (slides into place) and the sash didn’t fully close (stuck out about 12” away from closed position). I slowly worked it up and down and now it sits about 4” from being closed. A little bit of binding to fully close it, but not too bad.
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02-27-2020, 04:55 AM
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#28
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1 Rivet Member
1964 19' Globetrotter
Choctaw
, Oklahoma
Join Date: Jan 2020
Posts: 18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 65TW
Thanks. I’ll check it out. I finished brazing the new sash together tonight from VTS. The profile is slightly different from the original. The top sash is a tight fit in the window frame (slides into place) and the sash didn’t fully close (stuck out about 12” away from closed position). I slowly worked it up and down and now it sits about 4” from being closed. A little bit of binding to fully close it, but not too bad.
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I also just finished brazing a new sash. Did you replace the bulb weather strip on the frame? You think that new weather strip might be the reason it's tight in closing?
I'll be finding out myself soon. I replaced all my glass with smoked tinted glass and will be installing everything this weekend.
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02-27-2020, 08:45 AM
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#29
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1 Rivet Member
1961 24' Tradewind
Brownfield
, Maine
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 12
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On my windows the clips were originally peened into place. Easy to do using a hammer and nail set .
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02-27-2020, 10:48 PM
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#30
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2 Rivet Member
1965 24' Tradewind
San Diego
, California
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 24
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No bulb seal installed yet. No windows either, so the weight of the window would likely bring it a bit closer. But the real issue is the profile on the repo frames are different and a little off.
I tried a punch and hammer on some left over frame piece to stake the clips. It didn’t work at all. The factory crimp appears to be a cut and crimp on the inside side, but an actual cut of the frame and folding over of the aluminum on the outside side of the frame. Anyway, a hammer and punch method was beyond my skill level. I tried JB Weld (original) on a trial piece. Prep was sanding to rough up the surface and acetone wipe down. It stuck ok but I was able to pry it off with a flathead screwdriver after about 12 hours of cure time. Probably would hold up under normal use, but not sure.
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02-29-2020, 05:26 AM
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#31
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1 Rivet Member
1961 26' Overlander
Tulsa
, Oklahoma
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 10
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I used a pair of channel locks and gently crimped on either side of the clip to hold them in place. I used a thin piece of wood on the outside of the window frame to prevent the channel locks from scarring up the aluminum. It ended up working quite well.
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03-12-2020, 12:48 PM
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#32
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2 Rivet Member
1965 24' Tradewind
San Diego
, California
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 24
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Any ideas on where to source 3/32” replacement glass for front and rear windows? They’re 20” x 41” & 37.5” respectively. Home Depot sells 24x36 sheets, so not big enough. I’ve called 3 local glass shops and all they can get is 1/16 or 1/8. Thanks
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03-13-2020, 11:05 AM
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#33
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1 Rivet Member
1964 19' Globetrotter
Choctaw
, Oklahoma
Join Date: Jan 2020
Posts: 18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 65TW
Any ideas on where to source 3/32” replacement glass for front and rear windows? They’re 20” x 41” & 37.5” respectively. Home Depot sells 24x36 sheets, so not big enough. I’ve called 3 local glass shops and all they can get is 1/16 or 1/8. Thanks
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I replaced mine with 1/8" and had no issues. The glass guy said that he didn't think 1/32" would make a difference and he was right. The only issue was the glazing strips, it was a bit tighter fit but still got them installed. I'm actually doing a video for my YouTube channel on it because I've not been able to find anything on installing the glazing strips.
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03-13-2020, 11:06 AM
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#34
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1 Rivet Member
1964 19' Globetrotter
Choctaw
, Oklahoma
Join Date: Jan 2020
Posts: 18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockhoundj45
I used a pair of channel locks and gently crimped on either side of the clip to hold them in place. I used a thin piece of wood on the outside of the window frame to prevent the channel locks from scarring up the aluminum. It ended up working quite well.
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I ended up using a small pair of nips. Just pinched all 4 sides enough to distort the metal and keeps them in place just right.
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03-13-2020, 10:31 PM
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#35
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2 Rivet Member
1965 24' Tradewind
San Diego
, California
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 24
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I installed 1/8” glass in one sash tonight. Same thing here, glazing strips are a bit difficult to get in place and are a really tight fit. I think if I use silicon instead of the black butyl tape, the glass might sit down lower in the frame. Not sure if it would hold up as well over time (leaks)?
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11-06-2022, 06:03 PM
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#36
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New Member
1961 28' Ambassador
Englewood
, Colorado
Join Date: Oct 2022
Posts: 1
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Does anyone who purchased clips from the eBay listing have any spares left over?
I am restoring a 1961 ambassador that was missing 2 windows and need 4 clips.
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11-07-2022, 08:14 AM
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#37
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2 Rivet Member
1965 24' Tradewind
San Diego
, California
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 24
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I have some. PM me with your mailing address.
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08-03-2023, 03:04 PM
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#38
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New Member
1990 32' Excella
Sainte-Therese
, Quebec
Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 3
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Its an old post but im in the same sitatuon and i am looking for some clips… do you have any??? Taking all my chances in finding some lol. Thanks
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08-03-2023, 10:30 PM
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#39
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2 Rivet Member
1965 24' Tradewind
San Diego
, California
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 24
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I may but won’t be able to get to where I may have them stored for a couple weeks. You’re welcome to check back with me. Thanks
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08-05-2023, 06:07 AM
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#40
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New Member
1990 32' Excella
Sainte-Therese
, Quebec
Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 3
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Thank you
I will ;-)
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