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Old 04-26-2007, 08:17 AM   #61
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1973 23' Safari
1977 23' Safari
2018 25' Flying Cloud
Palmer Lake , Colorado
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Originally Posted by Zeppelinium
... It turns out that the original Airstream rivets, 1/8" round head, are no longer available. In order to get a head that has a similar diameter and crown shape, you need to get 5/32 rivets. Rivet type is MS20470A5-X, where

MS20470 -- airplane, aluminum, defines the right head shape
...........A -- soft, use for patches and low-load structure. Use
..................a harder rivet for skin to stringer or higher load connections, use "AD". These buggers are
..................harder to drive, let me tell you, but not that difficult.
...........5 -- 5/32 diameter
...........X -- length in 1/32", should be 1.5D protruding through all
..................layers, before bucking. more on computing X after I ask
..................for "further clarification" from the master.
Oops, the info for the last digit (the X above) is wrong. Here's how X is determined:

The rivet shaft length (X in the above quote) is measured in 1/16ths of an inch, not 1/32nds. You need 1-1/2 diameters to stick through your material (1.5D, in the vernacular of rivets, which for a 5/32 rivet is 1.5x.156=.234). So if you're putting two sheets of .032 together, you need 0.064+0.234=0.288, which in 1/16ths (0.0625) is 4.6, rounded up is a -5 rivet.

For heavy stuff like a window frame (which my eyeball says is 3/16ths thick) riveted to the shell (which is .032), it would be .234+.032+.188=.454, or 7.3 sixteenths, a -7 rivet.

Aerowood recommendgs getting rivets on both sides of the computed length, particularly on the long side, since a little thickness in the Vulkem or a shim here or there can be accommodated. I think I'll be getting -4s through -9s.

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Old 04-26-2007, 01:35 PM   #62
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1973 27' Overlander
Catfish Corners , Georgia
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Radman, are you talking about the windows pictured below? The shop manual calls them “wing windows”. Forum member Chuck and I have been trying to figure out how to take those things apart for over a year now. The manual seems to say that you have to drill out the outside rivets and remove the entire assembly from the outside (the shop manual isn’t always exact on how to do things). We just want to clean ours, but man, that is a lot of work.

One guy posted here, once upon a time, that he had removed his, cleaned them, and replaced them, but didn’t say how he did it—even after we begged him! On the ’73 models, both panes are glass (no Plexiglas). If anybody knows how to do this, you would be the person of the week in my book.

So, does anybody know how to do it?

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Solve for X, Or is it Y?
Air No. 6427
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Old 05-13-2008, 09:24 AM   #63
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1975 25' Tradewind
Huntington Beach , California
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I am also looking for a way to deal with these dual pane wing windows. The moisture between the panes is ugly as is the seal that seperates the panes. I am seriously considering breaking the inner pane with a spring-loaded center punch, removing it and just using the remaining outer pane.

I'm wondering if anyone here has actually removed a dual-pane glass window assembly from the trailer. Can the panes be seperated at that point? If so, I think this would be the better way to go because then the inner panes could be saved for future use. I assume that both panes are identical which means you would then have an extra set of windows in case of breakage down the road...

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Old 05-13-2008, 11:54 AM   #64
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It's a big job, but doable. See

The panes are not identical--the inner pane is smaller.

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Old 12-04-2010, 01:58 PM   #65
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1976 29' Ambassador
Wichita , Kansas
Join Date: Nov 2009
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After breaking the inner pane of glass, you still have an old brittle "U" gasket that really needs to be replaced anyway. Why not rebuild the window as a single pane? I'll tell you exactly how. Rebuilt all mine and they look brand new.... better that spending $450.00 for new sashes from Airstream.. Oh..I don't break any glass either..:-)

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