Can't open the windows !

[IrishRover2]

Had my 2004, 28' Classic in storage for about six weeks and took it out this past week for the second time since we purchased it. Spent a few days in Quartzsite, AZ had a few problems I should have seen coming but nothing too big a deal.

What was a big deal was that I couldn't get the windows open! No, not operator error this time, they just plain wouldn't open. It's like they're glued to the seals or ?

Help please!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[LoydBonifide]

I have had the same problem, but it was not serious. It was just the glass stuck to the gasket. Be sure they are unlatched when you try to open them, they will finally open with moderate pressure on the levers. To prevent this from happening again, wipe the gaskets down with Armour-All.

Keith

[ITOWAIR]

We have a 2004 28 foot CCD and our windows also stick after being closed for a while.

You are correct it is like they are glued shut on the gaskets.

What I do is from the outside I slip in a thin plactic card like a Credit card but thinner. and work my way around to break the seal.

After you have them open wipe the rubber gasket with a lube. I use WD40, or Armour All

[Fyrzowt]

This is not uncommon. The window seals/gaskets stick to the glass or window frame. I have used silicone spray to keep them from sticking, others have their favorite lubes.
Your problem at this point is getting them unstuck - mine were never so stuck I couldn't open them. Therefore, I'm only giving advice that I believe will work.
Use a smooth plastic putty knife, a smooth butter knife, or similar tool that will not cut the gasket. Work the tool between the gasket and the surface that it is stuck to. Spray some silicone lube in there, work your way around window, it should then open.
Let us know how it comes out.
Dave

[brijbldr]

Be gentle and don't put too much pressure on them with the opening rods. The glass WILL break. I have gently pried from the outside bottom while wife pushed with the opening rods. We've learned to lube the seals. It is a common problem.

[IrishRover2]

Hi All,
Thanks for the info.
I know and understand I have a lot to learn about being an Airstream owner.

Have any of you had any problems with batteries? Both of my batteries were dead when I picked up the trailer. I had shut off the 12 volt master switch after the last trip and they were still dead. Admittedly, they were low in water so I topped them off and off we went on our trip, expecting them to be recharged upon arrival. Well. . . they were still dead when we got there after 5 hours of driving.

Here's were I get crazy: I hooked up my generator (Honda 2000i) and ran it for a while and the batteries seemed to take a little charge and then died right away. Classic for "you need new batteries" but why the heck didn't they charge at all during the drive?

[Fyrzowt]

It takes a long time to charge going down the road. If they were dead to start, you really need to put the batteries on a battery charger to get them up to snuff. This needs to be done before leaving, if they batts are dead. Driving won't do it. I've been there....
Dave

On edit - It could be your batteries are just too far gone. They were low on water, how low and for how long, and how many times have they been dry? It might be time. Sorry...

[CanoeStream]

Ditto on the be careful with opening your windows. You will probably have to be outside the trailer to work them loose. The rubber window gaskets need silicone on them at least once a year. Even in our climate I see a little sticking and repeat it again a second time during the season. I've also observed the gasket for my Fantastic Fan sticking and resorted to the same treatment. 303 Aerospace Protectant is a good product for this. Spray it onto a paper towel, then wipe that on the gaskets.

Cars and modern travel trailers have a number of electronic systems on standby even with the key or master switch off. This parasitic load can result in drawdown of the batteries. I seem to recall something on the order of a month for this to happen. Lead-acid batteries shouldn't be drawn below 50% or it will lessen their recharge ability and shorten their lifetime. I'll put the Airstream in the driveway and plug it in before a camping trip to pre-cool the fridge on 110V anyway. That will usually top off the batteries.

I could repeat Fyrzowt's 'how low, how long' question -- but I think he's already drawn the correct conclusion that it is time to replace. Were these the original batteries for this coach? I've read critiques about the quality of batteries installed by Airstream. Your batteries lasting from 2004 to now is better than some experience! I'll be glad if mine last this next season and will be switching to the more expensive AGM (absorbed glass mat) batteries when I need to change over -- many advantages. They can be drawn somewhat lower, they're fully enclosed & never need water, they don't outgas hydrogen to corrode aluminum in the vicinity of the batteries, and on and on... Spend a little time with the search function here.

Most tow vehicle alternators produce just enough amperage to run its own systems, especially if running the A/C. With that added to the inefficiencies of the long distance back to your Classic's batteries, it does take a couple hundred miles of driving to recharge batteries. So five hours should have been enough.

[OpenHigher]

Mike: Regarding the gaskets and windows issue, I too have had similar issoues. I ech o another poster who said do not push too hard from the inside on a stuck window, it WILL shatter. When I finally got my windows separated from the gaskets the gaskets were damaged. Called Airstream and at no charge and no shipping costs they sent me gaskets which fit the respective windows. Here is my tip inaddition to the silicone or other lubricant. When I am in really hot weather and our rig is in storage (in our case storage is our pad behind a locked gate in our backyard) we unlock the windows on the sun side so the window is not "sealed" against the gasket. Works great. Same thing with the fantastic fans, I open them manually just enough to take the pressure off the rubber seal, and voila, no problem.

Robert and Sherry

[jcanavera]

The batteries will discharge if you sit long enough, even with the master disconnect off. The propane detector is still running drawing it's little amount of power. Back in '01 I measured the amp draw on my Safari with the master disconnect on and then off. When on, it was drawing .1 amp. When off it was drawing .01 amp. Figure out the amp hours of your battery and do the math. Obviously if you are low on water you have even less capacity.

Jack

[clancy_boy]

The battery discharge is the reason I put a mechanical disconnect switch (marine grade) behind my battery and isolate it from the charger. I still believe even the modern chargers overcharge the battery and cook off the water. I leave my trailer plugged in and the battery disconnected getting power directly from the converter. I put the battery on "charge" several times a month but only when I am outside working on the trailer and then disconnect when I am done. This also prevents the electric jack from being messed with - you would have to spend some time (OK less than a minute) looking for the switch even though it's obviously out in the open, keeps the little kids from playing with it.

I would not recommend WD-40 on rubber, use the silicone stuff on your window gaskets. I had mine stuck this weekend when I went around and checked things - one was real tough.

[IrishRover2]

Once again, thanks to all of you that took the time to stop and help a fellow "Airstreamer". You've all helped reinforce our decision to become a member of the Airstream clan.

The window and battery suggestions will be followed and I look forward to seeing you along the road. I've attached a picture of Saturday 1/27/06 sunset taken from the front door of our trailer in Quartzsite, AZ. Enjoy!

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by Mike Behan

Had my 2004, 28' Classic in storage for about six weeks and took it out this past week for the second time since we purchased it. Spent a few days in Quartzsite, AZ had a few problems I should have seen coming but nothing too big a deal.

What was a big deal was that I couldn't get the windows open! No, not operator error this time, they just plain wouldn't open. It's like they're glued to the seals or ?

Help please!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Spray the door and window gaskets with "silicone spray" only. Apply it very generously and close the door and windows.

After a few days, wipe the surplus off.

Repeat every 6 months or so.

Any spray that contains any petroleum should "NEVER" be used. In time, those products will attack the gasket material.

Silicone is inert and will not hurt the gasket material.

Andy

[IrishRover2]

What I do is from the outside I slip in a thin plactic card like a Credit card but thinner. and work my way around to break the seal.

Thanks for the help. Finally got out to the storage yard to work on the trailer today and the above worked like a champ!!!!!!!!!! Lubed the seals with silcone rather than an oil based product to assure no seal deterioration.