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Old 07-31-2005, 10:12 AM   #1
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'71 Overlander window

We have a 1971 Overlander with a broken window side window. I've removed the window frame from the trailer, but can't see how the replacement fits into the channel. There is a set of rivets at the top and bottom of the frame. Do I drill these out to seperate the frame for window installation? Any help on disassembly and assembly would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 07-31-2005, 03:51 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by spotszilla
We have a 1971 Overlander with a broken window side window. I've removed the window frame from the trailer, but can't see how the replacement fits into the channel. There is a set of rivets at the top and bottom of the frame. Do I drill these out to seperate the frame for window installation? Any help on disassembly and assembly would be greatly appreciated.
Welcome to the forums!
The replacement window is designed to be inserted into the channel by lifting it way up past the horizontal, and putting the rounded clip into the slot at the top of the window frame on the trailer. Then, allow the window to hang down so you can install the two actuating levers on each side of the window. Close and latch, and you are ready to go.
Let us know if you need anything else.
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Old 08-01-2005, 11:25 AM   #3
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71 overlander window

Thanks for the quick reply. I already have the window frame removed from the trailer, I need to find out how to seperate the frame so I can install the new window(Lexan). The Pic on the left shows 4 rivets. They are on the top and bottom of the frame. Do I have to drill these out to seperate the frame?
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Old 08-01-2005, 11:50 AM   #4
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Yes you have to drill out those rivits to seperate the frame.
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Old 08-01-2005, 03:26 PM   #5
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71 overlander window

Any sugestion on refastening window frame. I was thinking of using pop rivets. Thanks again.
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Old 08-01-2005, 07:51 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by spotszilla
Any sugestion on refastening window frame. I was thinking of using pop rivets. Thanks again.
Pop rivets would work, they would need to be aluminum, to minimize dissimilar metal corrosion issues. Imperial-type rivets would be better, but buying a box of 100+, just to get 4, would be a tad expensive. These rivets have an end that remains in the rivet, so water won't be able to get into the rivet.
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Old 10-03-2007, 06:27 PM   #7
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hello,
I also have a 71 Overlander and wanted to know if you use some type of glazing on the exterior of the window after installing. on my Overlander it looks like the glazing is shrinking and is pulling away from the corners. I cant figure out if this is a rubber seal that got hard or a glazing compound.
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Old 10-04-2007, 05:29 AM   #8
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hello,
I also have a 71 Overlander and wanted to know if you use some type of glazing on the exterior of the window after installing. on my Overlander it looks like the glazing is shrinking and is pulling away from the corners. I cant figure out if this is a rubber seal that got hard or a glazing compound.
That gray material is a "vinyl gasket."

Andy
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Old 10-04-2007, 06:48 AM   #9
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Any recommended techniques or tips for drilling out those rivets as centered and efficiently as possible? I need to drill out a bunch and want to drill true so the old rivets come out easy and I don't damage the holes in the coach.
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Old 10-04-2007, 12:55 PM   #10
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Any recommended techniques or tips for drilling out those rivets as centered and efficiently as possible? I need to drill out a bunch and want to drill true so the old rivets come out easy and I don't damage the holes in the coach.
Several words of warning, when you want to take that window apart and reassemble it.

You will need far more than good luck. After you remove half the rivets, you may have to pull the frame apart with a fork lift, since the metal "joiner" bars will be severely corroded, and work against you. There is no need to take out the rivets on both sides of the seam.

Then there is the gasket problem. Airstream will not sell that gray vinyl gasket.

Then when you try to reassemble the window, you will find that it will not go back together, unless you perhaps try it with the same fork lift.

The bottom of the window will become very flexible and will never again make a good seal.

You can only reassemble the frame with buck rivets. If you use pop rivets, the back side of the rivets will interfer with the top and bottom closing properly.

You can, however, fasten some Lexan to the outside of the window sash (frame), with very small screws, along with a bead of sealer bewteen the Lexan and sash.

That won't look as good, but it will work.

The last resort is turn the glass loss into your trailer insurance company, or if you have no insurance on the trailer, then turn it into your homeowners insurance company, and replace the sash and glass. They come ready to install.

If your just trying to replace the vinyl, "DON'T."

Instead, clean the metal to vinyl to glass area so that it is chemically clean. Put a bead of the smooth type of Vulkem sealer from the metal to the glass, which hides the gasket, and gives you a life long, positive seal.

If yoy take the window apart and try to reassemble it, you will more than likely also "invent" several new "cuss" words.

Andy
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Old 10-04-2007, 06:41 PM   #11
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so, I dont replace the vinyl seal( can't get it anyway). in the places that it shrank away from the corners, should I take razor and remove it? then use smooth vulkem to seal it. what color is vulkem?and where do iI get it?
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Old 10-05-2007, 12:44 PM   #12
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so, I dont replace the vinyl seal( can't get it anyway). in the places that it shrank away from the corners, should I take razor and remove it? then use smooth vulkem to seal it. what color is vulkem?and where do iI get it?
Gray vulkem is availble from a few Airstream dealers.

Don't cut the gasket, just bury it with the Vulkem.

Andy
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Old 10-05-2007, 01:15 PM   #13
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Vulkem

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Originally Posted by Don Boyd
what color is vulkem?and where do iI get it?
Hi Don, Vulkem is now called TemPro. Click here for a good picture of it. The color is a silver-grey. I like the 635, for the faster cure time.
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Old 10-07-2007, 06:21 PM   #14
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window seals

here are pictures of my window seals. I dont think i can just cover them over with vulkem. i think i will have to cut some of the seal away in orsed for it to look good.
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Old 10-07-2007, 07:23 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Don Boyd
here are pictures of my window seals. I dont think i can just cover them over with vulkem. i think i will have to cut some of the seal away in orsed for it to look good.
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Put some Vulkem in the window sash.

Push the gasket in place and hold it there with duct tape.

When that cures out, then install the Vulkem over the entire gasket.

A little trickey, but it will work.

Andy
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Old 10-10-2007, 09:18 PM   #16
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Put some Vulkem in the window sash.

Push the gasket in place and hold it there with duct tape.

When that cures out, then install the Vulkem over the entire gasket.

A little trickey, but it will work.

Andy
Assume it won’t work.

Any other alternatives? Or just vulkum?
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Old 05-12-2013, 07:46 PM   #17
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window gasket still a problem

This old thread addresses a problem I currently have - same gasket problem as shown in the photos above. Has their been any solution to develop over the years? If I have to disassemble the frame, can the rivets be bucked without damaging the glass?

Alan
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Old 05-12-2013, 08:54 PM   #18
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This old thread addresses a problem I currently have - same gasket problem as shown in the photos above. Has their been any solution to develop over the years? If I have to disassemble the frame, can the rivets be bucked without damaging the glass?

Alan
Within reason, you won't break the glass.

Use aircraft type tools for the riveting.

Andy
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Old 05-12-2013, 09:02 PM   #19
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This old thread addresses a problem I currently have - same gasket problem as shown in the photos above. Has their been any solution to develop over the years? If I have to disassemble the frame, can the rivets be bucked without damaging the glass?

Alan
Alan.

Taking thw window apart won't do much good. The window gasket is not for sale by Airstream.

It's much easier to just cut the gasket away, and then run a bead of smooth Sikaflex where the gasket used to be.

That saves a bunch of time, is easy to do, costs very little, and has no risks.

Andy
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Old 05-20-2013, 12:00 PM   #20
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Thanks, Andy. I'll get started on that repair. Btw, I was surprised by the amount of water that gets trapped inside the frame from that gap in the vinyl gasket.

Alan
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