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ts8501 · 02-11-2010, 06:26 AM

JP:
I tried to remove the window and outer frame, but I could not get it to slide off. I had removed the guides, and the set screw in the middle of the frame. The window was like it was locked in. So I struggled to replace everything with the window frame and glass still in place. I'll try again to remove it with the next window.
-Tim

kevinb · 02-11-2010, 09:04 AM

Tim
if you got to the point where the arm is disconnected from the window and the set screw is out (on top exterior center of the window frame) then manually open the window about 3/4 of the way and slide window and frame out, it wont slide at any other point (goes back in same way).
Kevin

ts8501 · 02-11-2010, 11:08 AM

Kevin:

Please see the attached PDF. I am not a great drawer, but see if I have this right. When you say the window is 3/4 open in order to slide the outer frame out, do I have it right?

-Tim

VIKING · 02-11-2010, 11:13 AM

Looks close to me. I had to spray some lube into the hinge to help it slide, then I moved the window up and down while pushing it to the side. At the right angle it will start to slide unless the retaining screw is still engaged or the track is bent. I removed the screw and shot lube into the hole.

Good luck Tim,
Rich the Viking

kevinb · 02-11-2010, 03:03 PM

Tim
Lower the frame in the pdf so it is at more of a rt angle to the coach. (lube may also help like Rich and JP said). Then try to slide glass and frame(probably from right to left) if it wont go change the angle just a little, should come out. When replacing will need to put frame at same angle as you took it out and make sure it is perfectly centered in the fixed coach frame before you lower it closed if it isnt it will bend the little channel.... not good. Hope this makes sense.
Kevin

ts8501 · 02-14-2010, 07:13 AM

JB, Rich & Kevin:
All the advise helped, both the front and back windows are now out. I had to grind off the front window set screw, as there was no getting it out. I will now focus on getting some form of new plastic window panes (Lexon?). I also have the gaskets etc. from Vintage Trailer to install, along with new window operators. I look forward to having all the windows operate correctly!
-Tim

Frank's Trailer Works · 02-14-2010, 07:31 AM

I would use real glass. However that is me.I have a personal aversion to plastic in general. In a very short time it no longer flat and begins to concave inward.

ts8501 · 02-14-2010, 08:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 62overlander

I would use real glass. However that is me.I have a personal aversion to plastic in general. In a very short time it no longer flat and begins to concave inward.

Frank:

I am open to glass, but how concerned do I need to be with breakage? I have no window guards to protect the front (and rear) panes while towing. I agree with you on glass being the better material, but I don't want to be replacing a broken pane when I am 500 miles from home.

-Tim

Frank's Trailer Works · 02-14-2010, 10:41 AM

glass is very easy to buy in just about any town. You can replace it very quickly and be back in business. I have often wondered how often window is actually broken. in the 20,000+ miles I have towed I have yet to break one. I have no rock guard to block my view right through the trailer either. I am sure someone will come on and talk about how it saved their bacon though. To each his own, just offering my 2 cents

ts8501 · 02-14-2010, 05:12 PM

Frank: I am leaning in going with glass as well. Not sure if there are safety glass options, but glass is so much clearer, and looking straight through the trailer when towing would be great. -Tim

Frank's Trailer Works · 02-14-2010, 06:30 PM

you can buy safety glass very easily also. Just make sure you stress that the size you are giving is an exact size and not nominal.

kevinb · 02-15-2010, 08:28 AM

Tim
one good thing the glass is a lot easier to swap out on the 64 (my 63 is a pain) so if you do have a break it can be repaired quickly. The gasket is also different, I know VTS has the one for my 63 but but I didnt see the 64 style on their site, then again I didnt find the operator on the Blaine site so it may be me! Let me know if in fact they really do have them.
Kevin

ts8501 · 02-19-2010, 06:41 AM

I was at a local glass company last evening, and I ordered Tempered Glass for the front and rear windows. The smallest thickness Tempered comes in is 1/8", and the windows on the Safari were originally 3/32". However, the front and rear windows must have been replaced previously with Plexiglas, as I assume the factory used glass (single strength?), and the Plexiglas that I removed was 1/8" thick. Since the Hehr Glazing seems to work fine on the Plexiglas that was 1/32" thicker that 3/32", I am going with Tempered. I gain 3x strength, small broken pieces if it ever does break, at just over 2x the cost of single strength glass. I will confirm how it all goes back together in about one week when the cut to fit Tempered arrives. No more brownish smoky Plexi to hurt the view!

kevinb · 02-19-2010, 07:27 AM

Tim
I have heard on the forums that my glass was 3/32" but when I replaced it I found them all to be 1/8". So your tempered should be just fine. Thanks for the link for the glazing, my glazing/gasket profile is not the same as that, but good to know it will work. The new glass will make a big difference in how the coach looks.
Kevin

ts8501 · 02-19-2010, 07:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kevinb

Tim
Thanks for the link for the glazing, my glazing/gasket profile is not the same as that, but good to know it will work. Kevin

Kevin:

Maybe I am stating the obvious, but just to be sure. The window glass and glazing I am referring to is for the front and rear windows, which on my '64 are Hehr-Mark 12's. I have no idea what glazing one gets for the mystery Hehr side windows; although I would like to know. I do not need to replace any side window glass, but if I did, I would have to research to find a glazing that would work.

-Tim

kevinb · 02-19-2010, 02:25 PM

yup, I missed the front and rear description on your post, thanks for stating the obvious. That now makes sense. I reused the old glazing because I couldn't find any new,so I soaked it in oil for a couple of months which made it a little more pliable but not much.

Kevin

Deanmaher · 07-23-2017, 07:39 PM

I have redone and replaced all the windows in my 64 overland.
In the process of attaching and trying the control arm I find that the window bounces very violently when I try to close It? is this normal?
If not do you know what I'm doing wrong?

Thanks in advance...all your advice and comments have helped me a lot throughout this whole process...Thanks