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Old 03-06-2009, 05:38 AM   #21
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OK, I give up....what's a SASE?
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Old 03-06-2009, 05:45 AM   #22
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OK, I give up....what's a SASE?
Self Addressed Stamped Envelope
Self-addressed stamped envelope - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
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Old 03-06-2009, 05:50 AM   #23
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Old 03-06-2009, 08:38 AM   #24
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I have looked at new trailers and they have the deadbolt but it is not on the door but on the sheet by door jamb and goes through the jamb into the door.
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Old 03-06-2009, 09:57 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by Clipper View Post
I have looked at new trailers and they have the deadbolt but it is not on the door but on the sheet by door jamb and goes through the jamb into the door.
Sounds like they've made an improvement, but still, if it does not have a detent, or some other method of holding it open until you physically close it, the same thing may happen.
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Old 03-30-2009, 06:03 PM   #26
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Just wanted to add a note to this thread....I received Andy's free "Anti lock out kit" the other day, and installed it in about ten minuets. It's amazingly simple, and more importantly, it works! I pulled the trailer to Dallas and back for some service yesterday and today, slammed the door several times, and I can still get in.

Thanks Andy.
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Old 03-30-2009, 10:51 PM   #27
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SteveH,
Kinda off the subject, but where in Dallas do you get your service work done?
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Old 03-31-2009, 05:29 AM   #28
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Bluto,

I had a special situation....needed a wheel alignment done on the trailer as it was wearing one of the tires. North Dallas RV has a tool and a procedure for bending axles as necessary to align the wheels.

It was a hard two day trip, but glad I got it done. Not only will my tires wear better, the trailer pulls much better....more stable and less of a tendency to sway, and I learned about wheel alignment on trailers.

Interestingly, the tire that was wearing bad was not the one that was out of alignment...it was the one behind it, causing the front one to wear.

Now I can start the search for GOOD trailer tires as mine are aproaching five years old.
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Old 03-31-2009, 10:56 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by SteveH View Post
Just wanted to add a note to this thread....I received Andy's free "Anti lock out kit" the other day, and installed it in about ten minuets. It's amazingly simple, and more importantly, it works! I pulled the trailer to Dallas and back for some service yesterday and today, slammed the door several times, and I can still get in.

Thanks Andy.
Your welcome.

Some things in life, are still "simple."

The requests for that kit, run hot and cold.

For others, don't wait for "that" lockout day.

Get your free kits while they are still free.

Just send us a note, with a SASE (self addressed stamped envelope) and it's yours.

Oh, but please, use 2 stamps.

Andy
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Old 03-31-2009, 11:23 AM   #30
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I'm sitting here imagining what Andy's kit is—perhaps something to increase tension on the bolt so it won't move on its own. I wish he'd thrown it in with the Centramatics (I got them a few days ago, and thanks, Andy, for the great deal on the price).

Anyway, I think I'll have a few extra deadbolt keys made and stash them someplace. Maybe in the truck (which would be locked, of course). I haven't had this happen to me and the deadbolt seems to have some resistance. Originally it hardly worked. I had to take it apart and grease it so it would lock easily. I usually have keys in my pocket, but I know there can be the time when everything goes wrong. I assume all the deadbolts are keyed on the outside; ours is.

I also, like Silvertwinkie and others, have found the door works differently at times and I haven't seen a relationship with the jack (or the stabilizers), but I'll be more attentive to that. It seems the door frame needs reinforcing so it doesn't distort so easily.

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Old 03-31-2009, 11:37 AM   #31
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Gene,

If you have an actual deadbolt lock that is locked with a key, you probably have no issues.

The lock that we are, incorrectly I guess, calling a deadbolt, is actually a security sliding pin type lock that works from the inside only. It has a tendency to slide to the locked possition by itself when the door is slammed, or I think in my case, because of certain road conditions.
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Old 04-30-2009, 08:51 AM   #32
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Having been locked out twice, 1st time at Burning Man for 7 hours during a mega dust storm. The 2nd time I was better prepared and kept a spare key in the TV and luckily I had the window down enough to unlock the TV. Since then I have had many spare sets of keys made and keep them all over! I can't wait to get the Anti Lock Out Kit!
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Old 04-30-2009, 08:56 AM   #33
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Having been locked out twice, 1st time at Burning Man for 7 hours during a mega dust storm. The 2nd time I was better prepared and kept a spare key in the TV and luckily I had the window down enough to unlock the TV. Since then I have had many spare sets of keys made and keep them all over! I can't wait to get the Anti Lock Out Kit!
Please send us a SASE with 2 stamps on it, and we will be glad to send that anti lockout kit to you, at no charge.

Andy
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Old 11-08-2010, 08:06 AM   #34
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Locked out

Yep locked out . 2007 international ccd fb. Think I either accidentally slid the dead bolt then slammed the door with all keys inside. Can a locksmith get me in?
Do I need to break a window.
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Old 11-08-2010, 08:07 AM   #35
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Call a locksmith. It will be lots cheaper in the long run...windows are expensive.
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Old 11-08-2010, 08:37 AM   #36
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Yep locked out . 2007 international ccd fb. Think I either accidentally slid the dead bolt then slammed the door with all keys inside. Can a locksmith get me in?
Do I need to break a window.
NO, NO.

Have some coffee.

I will be at my office by 9am.

Call me at 800-8777311, and I will tell you how to get in the trailer, quick and easy, and, with no damages.

Andy
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Old 11-08-2010, 08:38 AM   #37
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Gene,

If you have an actual deadbolt lock that is locked with a key, you probably have no issues.

The lock that we are, incorrectly I guess, calling a deadbolt, is actually a security sliding pin type lock that works from the inside only. It has a tendency to slide to the locked possition by itself when the door is slammed, or I think in my case, because of certain road conditions.
The newer trailers with a keyed deadbolt still have an issue.....although I don't think it is a lack of "detent" or slamming issue. It is REALLY easy to hit the deadbolt lever from the inside when pulling the door latch handle. If you move the deadbolt lever just past the detent, it will lock when slammed. But, several keys, in several locations takes care of any mishap.
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Old 11-08-2010, 11:37 AM   #38
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I have a friend who just bought an '04 model Airstream, and while it has the deadbolt lock, the real one operated by a key from the outside, his trailer had a problem with the main door lock mechanism that also locked him out of the trailer, and he had the key in hand.

Apparently there are many different types of problems that can develop with these Airstream door locks.
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Old 11-08-2010, 12:02 PM   #39
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Lock outs.

Please read posts # 2, 15 and 33 above.

That will guide you to the "fix".

Andy
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Old 11-08-2010, 01:14 PM   #40
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Ditto what CAstreamer said.
We also have had two extra sets of keys made and we make sure there is always one in the TV.
Sorry, I still don't understand.

On the one hand someone says that there is no way to unlock the "dead bolt" from outside the Airstream. and here S & S states that they have an extra set of keys made - presumably to solve the problem.

...and someone else states that the "deadbolt" is not accessible from outside the Airstream.

What's right?

Interestingly, on our 2008 International there is a deadbolt lockable (and "unlockable") from the outside with a key and lockable (and unlockable") from the inside with a small lever provided for the purpose. Although the door sometimes sticks after a rough tow I don't think this is being caused by the deadbolt, but more likely by the frame being racked.
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