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Old 06-19-2007, 09:23 PM   #21
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Hey ! No extra charge !

I for one am glad to help, good luck with your project and feel free to get in touch if you need some support.

Happy Trails !
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Old 06-28-2007, 03:33 PM   #22
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B4WedI and 5Cats

Just finished the job. Worked out great. Only change from the way you did it was to use 8 X 1/2 oval head screws on the sides. Seems to show a little nicer than the flat heads. And stainless steel looks a lot nicer than the zinc stuff.

Next project is to install the Zip Dee window awning I purchased.

Thanks again, guys!
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Old 06-28-2007, 05:56 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Antique Pedaler
B4WedI and 5Cats

Just finished the job. Worked out great. Only change from the way you did it was to use 8 X 1/2 oval head screws on the sides. Seems to show a little nicer than the flat heads. And stainless steel looks a lot nicer than the zinc stuff.

Next project is to install the Zip Dee window awning I purchased.

Thanks again, guys!
I waffled on oval heads -- they're a nice choice. I agree with SS -- I've resisted using zinc hardware anywhere thus far

Good luck with the awning!

Cheers,
-jd.
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Old 08-25-2007, 07:55 PM   #24
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Hey everyone...I'm glad we're not the only ones who think that big hook bathrom door handle is a bad design...in our 2006 19' Bambi (and other models where the bath door is up against the bed when it's open) we can hardly get in and out of the bathroom without catching the handle on a belt loop and nearly tearing our pants off (and we are not large people)! We intend to replace the stock latch...haven't decided which solution to go for, but at least we know where to start! (Definitely will NOT purchase from AS, though.) I'll gt back once we've done it, and let you know what we decided...

Your foot work and sharing of the details of your work is an huge help...THANKS!

I love this forum!
TB
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Old 11-04-2008, 07:47 PM   #25
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Bathroom door handle

We have been hooked so many times that I feel like it is time to do something about "Captain Hook." Does anybody have any solutions that doesn't include sawing and drilling out the old handle opening? If not, I think that I should hire 5-Cats to come over to install the new flush latch. Hey, you're in my "hood." Also is the "flush" latch a case of double-entandre?

Randy Bowman
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Old 05-20-2009, 09:44 AM   #26
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Many thanks to all who posted here on how to replace the "Captain Hook" latch. I just completed the replacement with the flush latch purchased from Perlane. One bit of advice: Make a notched cut as 5cats shows in post #15 above. I just made a rounded corner square cut as the manufacturers instructions specified. This puts the corners of the void pretty close to the face plate and if you look closely, you can just see them under my latch's faceplate. The notched cut would have prevented this. But then that's just the perfectionist in me coming out--seems like all us Airstreamers are.

Randy
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Old 05-18-2019, 07:08 PM   #27
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Just another thank you for this thread about replacing the “captain hook” door latches on Airstreams. After a recent long trip, I was motivated to find a solution for our 2005 19 and finally found this thread. As a result, I ordered the newer Airstream flush door latch from ODMRV.com and installed it this weekend. Wife is very happy.
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Old 05-19-2019, 06:44 AM   #28
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Hey Ken !

Glad to hear things worked out and the information above is still valid 12 years later

Just Say NO to Captain Hook !
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Old 03-30-2020, 08:09 AM   #29
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New Flush Mount Bath Door Latch

Hi everyone in this old thread,
I am a little late in getting rid of the “Hook” but could use some help. Making the cut out is big and scary! (moral support accepted). My door is hollow under the existing handle with no backing. I have reviewed 5cats and B4WEDI’s pictures and detailed posts but still have a couple of questions.
1. I would like some details on how you set up to make the cut with a dremel tool and guide. Do you make one cut all the way thru the door from the front side of the door with the dremel supplied cutting bit?
2. It looks like some of you have added backing on all sides of the cut for support unless my hollow door is different.
3. Where did you get the pattern to make an accurate cut out tracing? Did it come in the packaging ? I have ordered the part and it is on the way. Ouch!!!
4. Any other tips on what to do or what not to do?
Thanks in advance ,
Ken
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Old 03-31-2020, 01:12 PM   #30
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After the new lock arrived, I used it to make a template that was more custom fitted than what was shown in the instructions. Then, I used a small battery powered jig saw for the cutout. I used part of the door frame removed in the cutout as a glue block to reinforce part of the space between panels. In my case, the factory installed strike plate was not installed correctly. It did not matter with the original hardware, but the new door lock has a different latch and surrounding metal. So, I repositioned the strike plate after some trial and error. Hope this helps. ~ Ken
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Old 03-31-2020, 06:54 PM   #31
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Flush Mount Door Latch

Ken S,
Thanks for the feedback. Did as you suggested and made the big cut today with a high quality dremel wood cutting disc (#EZ 544). Worked flawlessly and I could guide it by hand with a handmade template as you suggested. Tomorrow I will work on setting the screws and adjusting the striker plate. I can make a 1 hour project into a 2 day project, effortlessly! ”Anticipation” As the song goes. The moral support was great.
Happy Trails and stay safe and healthy,
Ken M
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