Main entry lock problem

[Lumatic]

This lock on my 96 Cutter is very stiff and hard to open. I am looking for repair/replacement suggestions. What make and model is the lock? Thanks

[azflycaster]

This might be the replacement...
https://highskyrvparts.com/new-airst...5-01-683005-01

[Lumatic]

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Thanks Richard. I wonder if a cheaper alternative is available.

[Boxite]

Have you considered visiting a locksmith?

[Lumatic]

Originally Posted by Boxite

Have you considered visiting a locksmith?

First I will lubricate then take it out and inspect it. But, I am looking for affordable replacement options.

[Peter2016]

Have you tried pushing the door (closed) before pulling on the handle? My door was almost impossible to open because of the pressure on the lock. Pushing the door cured my problem.

[Lumatic]

Some silicone helped, but the problem seems to be the cylinder. It works if I don’t worry about locking it.

[Boxite]

I said it previously…. and I don’t mean to “harp” on it…but a talented locksmith can often return-to-servcie a lock which an ordinary “mechanic” might find frustrating. (It’s no different than a vehicle owner addressing a “check engine light”. The owner might be capable of determining the O2 sensor is at fault….in this case a lock tumbler… but making the repair and curing what caused the failure can be quickly addressed by someone who does it for a living.)

I loaned my granddaughter a car….a Buick. After a month, she said the drivers seat would no longer adjust for/aft…so her mother …(my ex-daughter-in-law)…. took it to the Toyota Dealer that sold her ..her latest new-car. She then called me to say the seat repair needed some special-order parts and asked me if I wanted to “call the Toyota guy to discuss it.”.
I asked why she hadn’t taken the car to a GM dealer since the car is a GM product, not a Toyota.
“Well, I’m sorry … I guess I could have done that…but I know the Toyota dealer and he does excellent work and …yada yada yada.”
I called Toyota and he said it would be a $1000 repair…needing a new drive motor and gears for that electric-adjust seat.
I said, “Fine. Please do it.”.

THREE WEEKS later that car is still at Toyota. They rec’d the wrong parts. They re-ordered parts. A week later, the parts rec’d were for a PASSENGER seat…right hand…not the driver seat. Another week goes buy and FINALLY that seat has all new suspension and it cost several hundred dollars more than originally quoted.
The DIL said she had bought a new car for granddaughter and no longer needed the Buick…. which I had to drive 4 hours round trip to pick up from the Toyota place.

Moral: People who KNOW the product are more likely to be successful at making a timely and affordable repair. (The GM dealer had the parts in-stock and charges $370 parts and one-hour labor to replace the seat suspension.)

In Quanah, Texas I had a hardware store make a replacement key for my Airstream. It didn’t work.
I returned the key, and the store owner took-over from the clerk and RE-made the key from another new “blank”.

It also didn’t work. Now the store owner is also frustrated and insisted on doing it again….. with the same result. The key-blank was correct and would enter the lock smoothly …but would not unlock the tumbler. You could lay the new key alongside the original key and could NOT tell the difference!

When I returned home, I took it to the old-time locksmith in my small town…. He took an identical new-blank…cut that key…and it worked perfectly.

There’s a reason real locksmiths can make a living doing this.

YMMV.

[Lumatic]

I called a locksmith who told me to go t a rv repair facility.

[Ray Eklund]

Originally Posted by Lumatic

I called a locksmith who told me to go t a rv repair facility.

******
Is the lock issue with the Airstream you had Boondocking some years ago? I assume it is and you have done a nice job with it.

Locks like those in the Airstream are on the very LOW END of the Lock Security Spectrum with the older models. I learned how to work on High Security Locks and ten tumbler pins on Mills Antique Slot machines from the 1930's and 1940's. The locks are expensive and many people drilled them out not having a key... and you cannot get replacement parts easily.

Your issue could be among a number of problems. Weathering of the inner Cylinder, Springs and the Flat 'tumblers' get corroded and make rotating the cylinder within the lock assembly, difficult. Cheap locks have steel pins and better ones have brass. (I am talking OLD Lock Assembles technology.)

Your Pin Cylinder is attached by a flat nut and a washer from the Inside the door mechanism. You need to Remove the Assembly, most likely, to get to the interior. Take a photo of the back if you are not mechanically inclined. Otherwise you will HAVE to buy the new assembly if you want perfect.

You just want it to work. I could take an electric drill, drill out the center lock pins. Take a screwdriver, insert it into the drilled out hole, a long handled pliers and with torque, open it, but ruin the entire assembly. Do that if you get locked out, option.

The inexpensive cylinders pull out from the front. Remove what is attached to the pin assembly and from the back try to force easily at first, the cylinder that rotates to lock and unlock the dead bolt.

Once out. Examine the pins and springs. Put the key into the cylinder and SEE how they move easily, or not. You can remove ALL of these pins and springs if corroded. Your key they just turns the assembly without locking, but would be secure. Nobody knows that a screw driver can open the lock.

Also the cylinder. Look into it and clean it. A wire bottle brush will clean out the debris. WD40, clean. Repeat. Then slide the Pin Cylinder back into it, if you cleaned it and it seems to work. When you put the Pin Cylinder back into the now empty round hole... have the key in the lock. Slide it in. The pins should be flush. If not... it is not going to go in, nor work.

If this is the case. Pull out the Cylinder Pins and Springs of those that are not working. Or pull all. You insert the key, turn the key and the dead bolt then locks and unlocks, but is not secured needing a key. But someone breaking into the trailer, does not know that. Your door is worth $1000 more or less. The bad guy will crow bar the door open if they want to get in. We do not lock our trailer door to avoid serious damage if someone wants to break into our trailer and be disappointed in what they find was not worth the trouble.

It takes me less time do work on Slot Machine High Security Locks, than to write this. But... you have to pull the assembly out and work on the hardware to pull it apart. It is very simple after the second and tenth time. The first time... is a vertical learning experience. If I can do it... you can.

[Lumatic]

Nice to hear from you again Ray.

No this is a new to me 96 Big class A .

Agree with you about the breaking in part. I have even thought about putting up a small sign saying “unlocked”. I have a couple of vehicles broken into when if the thief tried the door they would find it unlocked.

There is a separate working deadbolt which will keep the thugs out, maybe, and keep the door secure for travel. I don’t trust the upper locks in general, especially the old K locks. I have become semi expert in climbing through compartments and windows but am now 70 something. A methed out kid would, I’m sure just use a hammer or crow bar.

Trust in God but tie up your camel.

[Dan@LED4RV]

Originally Posted by Lumatic

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Thanks Richard. I wonder if a cheaper alternative is available.

Trimark Motorhome Entrance Doorlock without dead bolt SKU1187 Trimark Doorlock T505 [T505] - $179.95 : Triad RV Parts, Parts In Stock Ship Fast and Cheap (trvparts.com)

[Ray Eklund]

Buy the assembly that Dan found for sale.

Take the old one and practice fixing it.

When the 'new assembly' fails, you will have spare parts.

[BeachHouse]

Be sure to lubricate everything including in the key hole. Then work the moving parts and do it again.

[Lumatic]

FYI the lock is a Trimark. No cheap solution.

[John Ware]

If you still think it is the lock cylinder, try a trick a locksmith showed me on my old Ford truck. Using a tube, spray into the lock cylinder with some brake cleaner degreaser to loosen up the grease that has caked up the tumblers.

[Lumatic]

Originally Posted by John Ware

If you still think it is the lock cylinder, try a trick a locksmith showed me on my old Ford truck. Using a tube, spray into the lock cylinder with some brake cleaner degreaser to loosen up the grease that has caked up the tumblers.

No luck

[Lumatic]

Originally Posted by azflycaster

This might be the replacement...
https://highskyrvparts.com/new-airst...5-01-683005-01

Requires modification to the door jamb. Anyone done this?

[Lumatic]

Took the old lock to locksmith, no luck. Ended up getting the official replacement from Trimark, Kit 29409-01 $231. I could find no other option.