Interior locking shaft for KT lock, which one?

[MikeAir]

I have a 73 Overlander with a KT lock. On the inside next to the handle, towards the door jam, is a hole. I think there used to be some type of lever that could be slid to lock the door from the inside. In looking at the KT lock section in Out of Doors Mart they list a Vertical Locking Shaft #682385 (old SKU3325) and a Horizontal Locking Shaft #685198 (old SKU3372). I think one of these may be it, but I don't know what the original was. Any one know? Also, to put one in, does the lock have to be taken apart? taken out of the door?

[Tom Nugler]

I think you are looking for this
Inside Locking Latch 380347


I didn't take my latch apart just machined a new pin.

Inside the "hole" is as vertical rod {Vertical locking shaft) with a threaded hole to receive the pin which slides up and down to set the lock from the inside.
FYI the shaft can turn so if you don't see the hole a small needle nose pliers can be used to turn the shaft to the right position. Mine had turned and it took a couple of tries to get the shaft in the right position to make the latch work and the pin to screw in.

Good luck,
Tom

[MikeAir]

Thanks Tom for your response. You mention that you screw a pin into the vertical shaft once you have the vertical shaft rotated to accept the pin. I am beginning to understand. In looking at the diagrams and parts available at Out of Doors Mart is the pin of which you speak the Locking Latch #380347 old SKU3070? This is the pin or latch, when screwed in, the end of which would stick out a bit from the door and would be like a nub or lever to be grasped and slid to lock the door from the inside, right? (It's hard to imagine what it is supposed to be like when you've never seen it and there are no pictures of it properly assembled sticking out of the door; there's just a hole in my door.)

[barts]

Originally Posted by MikeAir

Thanks Tom for your response. You mention that you screw a pin into the vertical shaft once you have the vertical shaft rotated to accept the pin. I am beginning to understand. In looking at the diagrams and parts available at Out of Doors Mart is the pin of which you speak the Locking Latch #380347 old SKU3070? This is the pin or latch, when screwed in, the end of which would stick out a bit from the door and would be like a nub or lever to be grasped and slid to lock the door from the inside, right? (It's hard to imagine what it is supposed to be like when you've never seen it and there are no pictures of it properly assembled sticking out of the door; there's just a hole in my door.)

My 1971 was missing the interior pin as well., as well as the lock cylinder. I also machined a replacement pin, and indeed, one just presses it in the desired direction.

I just stepped outside and took these pictures; hope this helps.

[MikeAir]

A picture is worth a thousand words. Thank you. MikeAir

[ronsgto]

Originally Posted by barts

My 1971 was missing the interior pin as well., as well as the lock cylinder. I also machined a replacement pin, and indeed, one just presses it in the desired direction.

I just stepped outside and took these pictures; hope this helps.

Well now I know why I can not lock the door from the inside. Do you by any chance remember the thread size on the pin. I am sure I could make the pin as well but would be helpful to know what tap to use on the end of the pin.

Always appreciate the help


Ron

[barts]

Originally Posted by ronsgto

Well now I know why I can not lock the door from the inside. Do you by any chance remember the thread size on the pin. I am sure I could make the pin as well but would be helpful to know what tap to use on the end of the pin.

Always appreciate the help


Ron

I went outside and checked.

The threads on the pin on my lock are 6-32, which means that the pin (or at least the threaded part) should be pretty strong and keeping things lubed up to minimize the force placed on the pin is important to keep it from breaking/bending.

I used a 6-32 Allen head grade 8 machine screw and Loc-tited the threaded end of that into a piece of 1/4" stainless I'd tapped the same... I then cut off the remainder of the screw and cleaned up the end so it would thread cleanly into the shaft in the lock. You could also single point a piece of drill rod and heat treat that after threading.

The lock tends to get sticky over time; a squirt of WD-40 or better through the pin hole on the inside of the door keeps things moving nicely.

- Bart

[J. Morgan]

Or,,,

Get a short length of 1/4" or 3/16 steel brake line, place a 6-32 screw through the tube, and thread it into the vertical lock shaft...

A person could even file a half round in the end of short section of brake line so that it fits the lock shaft.

Simple, easy, and done.

Of course it won't look as good as the one Bart made...

(That is some nice work Bart)

[ronsgto]

Originally Posted by barts

I went outside and checked.

The threads on the pin on my lock are 6-32, which means that the pin (or at least the threaded part) should be pretty strong and keeping things lubed up to minimize the force placed on the pin is important to keep it from breaking/bending.

I used a 6-32 Allen head grade 8 machine screw and Loc-tited the threaded end of that into a piece of 1/4" stainless I'd tapped the same... I then cut off the remainder of the screw and cleaned up the end so it would thread cleanly into the shaft in the lock. You could also single point a piece of drill rod and heat treat that after threading.

The lock tends to get sticky over time; a squirt of WD-40 or better through the pin hole on the inside of the door keeps things moving nicely.

- Bart

Thanks Bart that helps a bunch. Looks like you must have also machined down the 1/4 inch rod because at least in mine the 1/4 rod will not fit in the hole. The pin would have to be just slightly large then the threads. Yours sure does look nice.

Ron L

[barts]

Originally Posted by ronsgto

Thanks Bart that helps a bunch. Looks like you must have also machined down the 1/4 inch rod because at least in mine the 1/4 rod will not fit in the hole. The pin would have to be just slightly large then the threads. Yours sure does look nice.

Ron L

Yup... so drill and tap for a 50% thread first, then turn OD to fit in the lock. Since this get handled a lot, I used 304 stainless and rounded the end in the lathe w/ a file.

I like making little pieces for the Tin Pickle when I have the time.

- Bart

[idroba]

And a new locking pin I saw on one of the Airstream parts sites had a cost of $35! I nearly fell over.

For what it is worth, I no longer use that KT locking system on my '74 Argosy 20'. I put a deadbolt in the trailer wall, with the bolt sliding into a hole in the door frame. Much more solid, and I use the same Schlague key as my house. Less wear and tear on the old KT lock system.

[bakes]

I have the same issue right now, as a fix I have a screw in place of the ridiculous $35 pin, but it doesnt want to stay in the up position unless i tighten the screw, over a few times opening the door I notice that the pin slides and and locks me out. my question is, is it suppose to function like that or am i missing parts on the inside like like a ball and spring?

[ronsgto]

Originally Posted by bakes

I have the same issue right now, as a fix I have a screw in place of the ridiculous $35 pin, but it doesnt want to stay in the up position unless i tighten the screw, over a few times opening the door I notice that the pin slides and and locks me out. my question is, is it suppose to function like that or am i missing parts on the inside like like a ball and spring?

I can't say for sure but Out of Door Mart has a nice blow up on it that you can take a look at. I did machine a pin for mine and I don't have the problem you mention.

Sorry I can't be of more help.