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LKappenman · 01-07-2003, 02:37 PM

We are just now getting around to fixing the hinges on our exterior door on the 310 1983. I remember a while back Andy (we miss him) gave some info on the subject as did others. The lower thrust washer on the hinge pin is warn gone and there is metal to metal on the hinge. We have to lift up and close to get the door closed. What is the best way to correct this problem. Andy had mentioned a repair place in Portland that did this kind of work but I can't find the post went through all of his and couldn't find anything. Help Dave

wb13798 · 01-07-2003, 04:27 PM

just picked up a set of hinges for my mh . mine isnt as bad as what you described. the hinges are avail from some airstream dealers for $77.00 and a few pennies. one dealer i checked with wanted $125. if you want a telephone no i will send you a pm . i hope some one chimes in as i would like to attack this problem tomorrow.

LKappenman · 01-07-2003, 04:51 PM

Was the set you bought complete with the gasket material. I would like the name and part number. maybe Andy at Inland RV has them will check his web site after I get the info from you. I sure hope we get some help also, or we will be stepping in it on our own, Thanks Dave

john hd · 01-07-2003, 05:44 PM

guys,

try a private message to andy. he will get back to you.

john

74Argosy24MH · 01-07-2003, 06:05 PM

Try this thread. It is not a fun job and different things seem to work for different people.

John

wb13798 · 01-07-2003, 06:40 PM

when i checked andy had the hinges for $95 each . what i have doesnt have any gasket material . i dont remember seeing any on the old ones . will know tomorrow as they are coming off . got to look for the sales slip. i have it some where.

PeterH-350LE · 01-07-2003, 07:07 PM

I used new bolts and lock nuts with the biggest washer I could fit on there. Depending on if you have rivets under the hinge a gasket would not do any good. Vulkem it! You can tape it off, before you remove the hinge, so upon reinstallation the vulkem will be easy to clean up.
If you don't want to go the drilling an access hole route, you will have to remove the inner door trim and window trim to lift the inner skin enough to reach it.
Be aware of a lot of wires running next to the door frame.

wb13798 · 01-08-2003, 11:18 AM

got a problem. arms arent long enough . this a two person job . after looking at this thing i can get it off but i can not get it back on by my self. so guess i will look for some help and plan this one for later.
what i decided after a few telcons . remove screen door. the inner door liner has to be removed. this the piece i would call a door stop,drill out all of the 1/8 inch rivets attaching the liner, the deadbolt lock and striker plate must be removed, and a few rivets removed on the side wall to permit you to get your finger in to hold the nut in place during removal and install. the inner door skin has to have a few rivets removed to get at the nuts holding the hinge to the door. this is actuall the easy part. put the hinges on the door and put the door back together install screen door to hinges while door is off . this is the part that needs two people place door in the door opening .install bolts for hinges . install door liner and rivet in place . also reinstall dead bolt lock and striked plate. rivet inside skin in place that is about it.

wb13798 · 01-08-2003, 04:24 PM

need to add to my last post the door trim is removed with a flat blabe screwdriver after you drill out the rivets in the door jam . probably dont need to remove the deadbolt lock or the striker plate. this piece of trim is on the inside of the coach.

LKappenman · 01-14-2003, 06:40 PM

Well I did it and it is amazing how it works. Much tighter and lines up very well. I ended up using two nylon washers that I knotched just enough to slip over the door pins . On the inside I removed the rivits and took out the rusty old screws replaced them with socket head grade 8 screws and lock nuts so the whole unit is now solid doesn't move up and down and closes like a door is supposed to.
The nylon washers filled a gap that may have had a washer at one time.

I forgot to mention I repaired the old hinges

PeterH-350LE · 01-14-2003, 06:56 PM

thats the way to go, Dave.
Congrats on a job well done!

thenewkid64 · 01-14-2003, 07:36 PM

Dave,

For those of us contemplating the task described can we see some pics? I need to give my door some help, and this may do the trick. It closes ok, but seems to be to be a bit too low in the opening.

Thanks

LKappenman · 01-14-2003, 07:43 PM

Thats what ours did we had to give a little lift and slam to close and when we opened it you could feel s slight drop. I will post some picts tomorrow after the door trim gets put back on.
Dave

thenewkid64 · 01-14-2003, 07:48 PM

Cool!!

Were your hinges bolted to the door, or riveted. Mine do not move on coach (I think), but they are riveted to the door frame itself.

Thanks

LKappenman · 01-15-2003, 04:28 PM

Here is the finished product and it works great

LKappenman · 01-15-2003, 04:29 PM

pict. 2

LKappenman · 01-15-2003, 04:30 PM

pict 3

LKappenman · 01-15-2003, 04:32 PM

Now we just need to cover the new bolts with something it just had some foam stuff on it sure is amazing how good the door works.

thenewkid64 · 01-15-2003, 06:49 PM

Thanks for the Pictures. Now for the $64.00 question. Did you get Louise help you to lift the door?

I will have to try this as I think there was some type of bushing there from the factory.