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TomW · 01-15-2004, 03:49 AM

The hinge on my Airstream’s entry door appears to be worn as I have to lift up on the door knob to get it to close properly. While I won’t know exactly what is worn until the hinge pin is removed, I’m hoping someone has an insight as to what to expect.

To remove the hinge pin, there appears to be one set screw in the middle of the hinge. After loosening it, I assume the hinge pin will need to be tapped out due to a mild force fit on one end or the other. Should the pin be removed from the top or bottom? What part of the hinge (body side, door side, or hinge pin) should I expect to see worn?

Thanks,
Tom

Tin Hut · 01-15-2004, 08:41 AM

If you have the single hinge like I do on my 67 Tradewind, the pin gets tapped down according the the po of my unit.

Rog0525 · 01-15-2004, 12:15 PM

After removing the set screw, the hinge pin should be removed by tapping it up from the bottom with a center punch or such.
I think Inland Andy has replacement pins.

Rog

Tin Hut · 01-15-2004, 12:18 PM

Well, now you've got two opinions. I'd call Airstream tech support with the year of trailer and they'll confirm for you. My po did and received the advice I shared. It is counterintuitive but that's what it was.

TomW · 01-15-2004, 12:24 PM

The hinge pin LOOKS like it will come out either way. Is the pin the only thing that wears? I noticed Andy@InlandRV only lists a hinge pin on his web page, and not the whole hinge.

Not to say he doesn't sell one, but I'm wondering (before I take it apart) what to expect to find worn.

Thanks for the responses so far,
Tom

Rog0525 · 01-15-2004, 12:26 PM

I did not mean to contradict you. My reply was based on my own experience with a '60 Overlander hinge pin. You are quite correct in suggesting a call to an AS tech.

Rog

Tin Hut · 01-15-2004, 12:33 PM

No problem, don't mind a contradiction, I'm no expert. I remember being surprised when I was buying my trailer and talked to the po about the hinge. He said it was tough getting out (trying to push up) and he finally called Airstream and they said to push it down. Still doesn't make sense to me, you'd think it could fall out if the set screw loosen, but I was told the pin has a light bend to it that also keeps it tight. The only other thing I could think could be a problem is the actually rivets or bolts holding the hinge on. They could have loosened or stretched their "holes" so there is some play. North Dallas RV replaced my door because the frame was broken. You could call them as well for advice, they're listed on the AS site as a service center.

Rog0525 · 01-15-2004, 12:39 PM

In any event, the easiest solution might be to call Inland Andy on his toll free number (forgive me Andy).
I do recall seeing a post from him regarding replacement hinge pins.

Rog

J&C · 01-26-2004, 03:01 PM

Tom, I'm having a the same problem on my '99 Limited. Did you contact Inland, North Dallas RV or Airstream for a solution?

It appears their should be shims or spacers too, is the slack due to wear?

I am anxious to know your ideas.black

Inland RV Center, In · 01-26-2004, 05:10 PM

Hinge pins for a 1960 trailer are very different from a 1965 up to 1972.

The pins can wear from severe vibration when towing.

We have the replacement pin for the 65 to 72 trailers.

Doors, within reason, can also be adjusted to compensate for some hinge pin wear.

Andy

RivetED · 01-26-2004, 05:57 PM

We had occasion to visit N. Texas R.V. (Carrollton, TX) when looking for our new A/S (they are only an A/S service ctr. & not a dealer now). The owner has a vintage A/S that had hinge problems. His replacement was a custom heavy-duty hinge that would do any restoration afficinados proud. I would check them out.
p.s.- No I don't work for, or even remember his name!

J&C · 01-26-2004, 07:39 PM

Thanks Andy (Inland RV), Ed & Debbie,

I'll contact North Dallas RV on Tuesday, Randy the service manager is very good and knowledgeable, I don't know why I didn't think to contact him first!

TomW · 01-27-2004, 12:37 AM

johnbaker

I have not disassembled my door hinge. On closer examination, I can clearly see wear in the hinge independant of the pin. While the hinge pin may be worn, replacing it would not totally fix my problem.

I spoke with a machinist about bushing the hinge. He agreed it could be done, but only with the hinge removed from the door. While I can drill rivets with the best of them, I would rather have a highly qualified person reinstall the door.

I'll revisit the issue later. Good luck with your similar issue, and please post your results.

Tom

smily · 01-27-2004, 05:48 AM

Andy, how do you make adjustment for worn hinges?
I see where a PO has slipped wire between the knuckles of the hinge to lift it. Can a "C" or "E" clip or jesus clip be used?

Thanks in advance.
Smily

Inland RV Center, In · 01-27-2004, 10:05 AM

Smily.

Most of the hinges on the single hinged doors were installed wth 1/4 bolts. Simply loosen them on the door and reposition the door.

If there is not enough slack to realign the door correctly, then enlarge the holes so that you can have further movement.

If the hinge is riveted in place, then drill the rivets out and install 1/4 inch plated bolts.

Do not use bolts any longer than necessary, or you will have a problem with the screen door.

Andy

J&C · 01-27-2004, 12:21 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by tcwilliams
johnbaker

I have not disassembled my door hinge. On closer examination, I can clearly see wear in the hinge independant of the pin. While the hinge pin may be worn, replacing it would not totally fix my problem.

I spoke with a machinist about bushing the hinge. He agreed it could be done, but only with the hinge removed from the door. While I can drill rivets with the best of them, I would rather have a highly qualified person reinstall the door.

I'll revisit the issue later. Good luck with your similar issue, and please post your results.

Tom

Tom, It may be next week before I can take the A/S in for service, I'll post the fix and let you know. JB

silver 67 · 08-08-2004, 07:28 PM

Johnbaker mentioned that the hinge was worn. A new hinge pin will not fix the problem if it is installed in a worn hole in the hinge. Has anyone had good luck having the hinge hole drilled out a little bigger and a new larger dia. hinge pin installed?

silver 67

technautica · 09-17-2004, 06:14 PM

Today I tackled removing the door on my '66 overlander. The biggest challenge was removing the thru pin which holds the door hinge pin from moving up or down. It was brittle and promptly broke off flush with the hinge body. Trying to tap it out with a punch was a waste of time. It appeared to be made of spring steel and had welded itself to the aluminum hinge body. Several broken drills bits later I finally was able to drill it out. Hinge pin tapped out from top with moderate force. Now the bad part - hinge pin not worn. Wear appears to be in aluminum hinge body holes on both trailer and door. Andy's suggestion about door adjustment is worth consideration as the most economical solution. I'm gonna try that first.

James

Toby · 09-18-2004, 04:40 AM

Howdy Technautica, I just had my door repaired at a local welders, and ran into the same problem with the hinge pin. The PO had used vice grips to try to remove the pin and the groves left by the VG's took the place of the roll pin. Not only was the hinge worn to let the door sag, but the arms of the door side were worn down ,letting the door drop down. It already had steel 1/4 washers installed and they had worn into the hinge also.
When I was ready to install door, I put the pin in the freezer for a time to let it contract, making it easier to install. Measure the pin from the notch to find the top /bottom,(mine was shorter on one side, the bottom I think) I had some 1/4" brass washers from another project, ( should have gotten nylon) that I used to raise the doors. As to the sag ,(appox. 3/8") my hinge is rivited ,so I'm going to get back to it latter, i'm going to try to make a small rub pad/ramp that will raise the door back to level. (On my dump truck, the door has one that is OEM to keep the weight off the door hinge) . I know this is only a quick fix, but the hinge is on the list.
By chance did you make a wiring diagram of the univolt wiring,(12v system) or have you gotten that far yet. I'm going to remove the battery charger that PO installed , and it never hurts to have a picture to look at .
Good luck Toby

technautica · 09-19-2004, 02:40 PM

Toby:

I assume the ramp you are talking about would be built at the door sill level - is that correct?

I have not tackled the electrical system as yet. I am still trying to finalize getting this unit as water tight as possible before tackling a rotten rear floor. Electrical is down the list a bit although I will have to remove univolt etc. to replace floor. I have the original handbook that came with trailer and it includes a wiring floor plan for a/c & 12 volt layouts. There is also a schematic for the battery, univolt, and panel layout. I'd be happy to scan it for you if that would help.

My trailer had been used in a permanent spot by PO and he had wired in a electrical panel, c/w 220 volts and to installed a instant hot water unit in back. I guess I'm going to have to re-wire all of this as the plug is a 4 wire connector which will be a limited use in any trailer park.

My immediate need is a single opener for the astrodome. I acquired 3 spares with trailer, all of which are seized and I can't free them up no matter what I try!!!

James