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10-24-2007, 09:31 PM
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#1
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1 Rivet Member
2007 25' Safari FB SE
Detroit Lakes
, Minnesota
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 15
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Entrance Door won't shut!
Greetings!
My family and I purchased a new 2007 Safari SE (25') this past summer and were able to use it about 8 times with a few minor glitches here and there. We did have the door lock on us once with the 3 year old inside...we blamed the three year old but I now realize that it might have locked itself. We had an extra set of keys in the truck and the three year old didn't even realize she was locked in. I will be sending for my free lock part fix kit tomorrow...thanks Andy & Inland RV Center, Inc.!
Ok...here is my problem. I recently brought my Airstream back from the local RV center for winterization (the nearest Airstream AD is nearly three hours drive). Everything was fine upon arriving home but I decided to take one last look inside before closing down for the winter. As I was leaving I closed the door and it "clunked". I could tell right away it didn't close...so I tried again. Same thing.
The outside door will not close enough to even lock the door with the deadbolt. The screen door will close by itself with no problem. The outside door doesn't seem to be hitting on anything. The Airstream is level and the stabilizer bars are "lightly" touching the ground. The latching mechanism seems to be the problem.
(excuse the less than technical description to follow...)
The claws of the latch will not close by themselves once they hit the post on the door frame. I can get them to move/close with my fingers but the post does not engage them to the point that they close thereby securing the door. The door handle is not locked and the deadbolt is not engaged.
Any ideas before I remove the locking mechanism cover to see if anything is broken?
I suppose if I can't fix this myself and will have to duct tape the door to seal it from rain and snow over the winter until I can get it back to the AD.
Any advice will be greatly appreciated!
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10-24-2007, 09:48 PM
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#2
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Site Team
1964 26' Overlander
1964 19' Globetrotter
OlyPen
, Washington
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 13,935
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Can't say about the lock, but I urge caution with duct tape or any tape. It will leave sticky residue and may damage the finish. Find another way. Consider tha plastic stuff they use to band pallets of boxes and cover boats prior to sale. They sell it at mailbox type stores. You could go all the way around the trailer.
Welcome to the forums - sorry about the circumstance.
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10-24-2007, 09:56 PM
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#3
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Moderator
2015 25' FB Flying Cloud
2012 23' FB Flying Cloud
2005 25' Safari
Santa Rosa Beach
, Florida
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 13,159
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Hi, welcome to the Forums. We're glad to have you with us.
If you can get the double catch to close by pushing it with your finger, it should close around the post in your door jamb. Close the door slowly and look in with a flashlight. The post should be centered on the two catches on the door. If it is off center, you can loosen the post with a 3/4" socket. It can be adjusted slightly and retightened.
Brian
__________________
SuEllyn & Brian McCabe
WBCCI #3628 -- AIR #14872 -- TAC #FL-7
2015 FC 25' FB (Lucy) with ProPride
2020 Silverado 2500 (Vivian)
2023 Rivian R1T (Opal)
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10-24-2007, 10:19 PM
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#4
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_
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, .
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 8,812
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hi kelly and welcome to the forums...
have you got a photo of the latching mechanism?
it reads like the mechanicals moved to the closed position before grabbing the post.
IF this has happened the door won't close.
using the key, UNLOCK the door and the pull open the outer handle and twist the inside handle.
the grabbers should return to the open position now.
IF the latch mechanicals are broken and you cannot get this repaired properly,
i'd use blue or purple painters tape (several layers) around the door/trailer opening, NOT duct tape.
a photo would really help.
cheer
2air'
__________________
all of the true things that i am about to tell you are shameless lies. l.b.j.
we are here on earth to fart around. don't let anybody tell you any different. k.v.
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10-25-2007, 04:34 AM
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#5
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Rivet Monster
1975 31' Sovereign
1980 31' Excella II
Sprung Leak
, North Carolina
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 7,172
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My only suggestion is to take the stabilizers up, my trailer has gotten in a bind more than once that made it impossible to open the door, when the stabalizers were down. As far as tape...if you decide to go that route, I would suggest the pure aluminum tape that is used for duct work. The adhesive is a bit less agressive and won't leave as much residue as duct tape. It also has the advantage that it is UV stable and won't deteriorate and leave a gummy mess like the Duct tape will. Not sure how it will affect the clear coat. I don't have enough clear coat left to worry about
Aaron
__________________
....so many Airstreams....so little time...
WBCCI #XXXX AIR #2495
Why are we in this basket...and where are we going
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10-25-2007, 04:54 AM
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#6
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4 Rivet Member
2007 27' Safari FB SE
LONDON
, ON
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 276
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I find when closing the doors (screen + outer) on mine, I must make sure the screen and outer door are snapped together before the pair of them will close. Sometimes we have the screen closed and then shut the outer door on top of it. I find it almost always makes a funny clunk and does not really shut. I then open the screen door, snap the two of them together and then the pair of them shuts without much problem.
I believe silicon spray on the door latch was suggested by Andy. It makes a huge difference in how easily the door closes.
I would hesitate using any tape on the trailer. Even painter's tape after 6 months is going to leave a residue or damage the clearcoat.
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10-25-2007, 05:09 AM
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#7
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Rivet Master
2006 25' Safari FB SE
St. Cloud
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 13,280
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Lps-1
Quote:
Originally Posted by wjboswell
I believe silicon spray on the door latch was suggested by Andy. It makes a huge difference in how easily the door closes.
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Hi -- "Andy" reporting in here. See http://www.airforums.com/forums/f453...ing-27193.html and http://www.airforums.com/forums/f453...oor-36890.html.
Detroit Lakes? Welcome to the Forums! Nice area! We used to do a lot of X-C skiing at Maplelag (Callaway) when the kids were at home.
FWIW -- Mineral spirits and steady rubbing did not remove all the duct tape adhesive from my Argosy days. I shudder to think about the possibilities with clearcoat issues.
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10-25-2007, 07:47 AM
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#8
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1 Rivet Member
2007 25' Safari FB SE
Detroit Lakes
, Minnesota
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Janet
Can't say about the lock, but I urge caution with duct tape or any tape. It will leave sticky residue and may damage the finish. Find another way. Consider tha plastic stuff they use to band pallets of boxes and cover boats prior to sale. They sell it at mailbox type stores. You could go all the way around the trailer.
Welcome to the forums - sorry about the circumstance.
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Your thoughts about duct tape are duly noted.
I thought about painters tape but I doubt that it would survive (stick) for 4-6 months in a Minnesota winter. Plastic wrap around the Airstream would likely seal in water where I don't want water to be for 4-6 months.
I may need to visit Menard's to look for another solution.
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10-25-2007, 07:48 AM
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#9
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1 Rivet Member
2007 25' Safari FB SE
Detroit Lakes
, Minnesota
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moosetags
Hi, welcome to the Forums. We're glad to have you with us.
If you can get the double catch to close by pushing it with your finger, it should close around the post in your door jamb. Close the door slowly and look in with a flashlight. The post should be centered on the two catches on the door. If it is off center, you can loosen the post with a 3/4" socket. It can be adjusted slightly and retightened.
Brian
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I will have to try this...thanks for the suggestion.
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10-25-2007, 07:52 AM
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#10
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1 Rivet Member
2007 25' Safari FB SE
Detroit Lakes
, Minnesota
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wahoonc
My only suggestion is to take the stabilizers up, my trailer has gotten in a bind more than once that made it impossible to open the door, when the stabalizers were down. As far as tape...if you decide to go that route, I would suggest the pure aluminum tape that is used for duct work. The adhesive is a bit less agressive and won't leave as much residue as duct tape. It also has the advantage that it is UV stable and won't deteriorate and leave a gummy mess like the Duct tape will. Not sure how it will affect the clear coat. I don't have enough clear coat left to worry about
Aaron
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I already tried bringing up the rear (not front) stabilizers with no improvement.
I will try it again with both rear and front.
Thanks for the aluminum tape suggestion!
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10-25-2007, 07:59 AM
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#11
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1 Rivet Member
2007 25' Safari FB SE
Detroit Lakes
, Minnesota
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wjboswell
I find when closing the doors (screen + outer) on mine, I must make sure the screen and outer door are snapped together before the pair of them will close. Sometimes we have the screen closed and then shut the outer door on top of it. I find it almost always makes a funny clunk and does not really shut. I then open the screen door, snap the two of them together and then the pair of them shuts without much problem.
I believe silicon spray on the door latch was suggested by Andy. It makes a huge difference in how easily the door closes.
I would hesitate using any tape on the trailer. Even painter's tape after 6 months is going to leave a residue or damage the clearcoat.
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In my situation...it doesn't seem to matter whether the screen door is shut first or snapped to the outer door.
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10-25-2007, 08:07 AM
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#12
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Rivet Master
1984 29' Sovereign
Savannah
, Missouri
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,478
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Give this a try
Kelly Green,
Greetings..Just curious..How hard are you shutting the door?
If I may say, try this.. Slam it really hard several times and, see if that helps.
Listen, it won't hurt it..They are made to be slam'd..
Just be sure that the screen door is latched first to the outer door.
I know we all love our A/S and, treat it like its one of the family but, honestly..it's made to be used. The door of an Airstream is one of the best made on the market.
ciao
53FC
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10-25-2007, 08:36 AM
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#13
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1 Rivet Member
2007 25' Safari FB SE
Detroit Lakes
, Minnesota
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CanoeStream
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Duct tape is apparently a no-no.
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10-25-2007, 08:46 AM
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#14
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1 Rivet Member
2007 25' Safari FB SE
Detroit Lakes
, Minnesota
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 53flyingcloud
Kelly Green,
Greetings..Just curious..How hard are you shutting the door?
If I may say, try this.. Slam it really hard several times and, see if that helps.
Listen, it won't hurt it..They are made to be slam'd..
Just be sure that the screen door is latched first to the outer door.
I know we all love our A/S and, treat it like its one of the family but, honestly..it's made to be used. The door of an Airstream is one of the best made on the market.
ciao
53FC
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Trust me...lack of force is not the problem.
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10-25-2007, 09:02 AM
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#15
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Rivet Master
2006 25' Safari FB SE
St. Cloud
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 13,280
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My Safari is not in my driveway to check -- until later today. Some latches (not sure about this one) can close when not on the frame pin. Slamming harder and harder can't be good in that situation.
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10-25-2007, 09:39 AM
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#16
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Rivet Master
1984 29' Sovereign
Savannah
, Missouri
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,478
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Undestand..
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelly Green
Trust me...lack of force is not the problem.
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I will say, the factory don't always get it right.
I have seen on brand new units from the factory where the entrance door didn't line up properly. (Makes you wonder about the so-call water test done at the factory.)
The only recourse was, to have the shop tech work on it till it closed and, it lined up right.
During a walk thru briefing with a Airstream Regional Manager, he would slam the door so much harder than I would ever dream of..Seeing the shocked looks on our face, he said, it doesn't hurt the door at all. Just a sales point that other SOB's wouldn't dare try. I had to agree.
A door not shutting properly should be readjusted by Pros. I would suggest that you seek out that service..Water damages can be costly, in the long run..
BTW, the advice about the use of tape is "spot on"..On one of my former units, the PO used tape around a storage compartment access door and, I had a one heck of a time cleaning it..
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10-25-2007, 09:51 AM
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#17
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Ready-to-Travel
2012 30' International
Walkerton
, Virginia
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,167
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The thought that occurred to me was that the door may have accidentally locked on the RV techs and they forced the door - perhaps by leveraging the frame? Any chance you can see any evidence or unusual marks?
Pat
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10-25-2007, 10:26 AM
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#18
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1 Rivet Member
2007 25' Safari FB SE
Detroit Lakes
, Minnesota
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pmclemore
The thought that occurred to me was that the door may have accidentally locked on the RV techs and they forced the door - perhaps by leveraging the frame? Any chance you can see any evidence or unusual marks?
Pat
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No unusual markings plus they had the keys. Before I towed it home I checked inside to make sure everything was secure and it shut and locked properly at that time. If it wasn't I am sure it would have swung open on one of the multiple turns on the way home.
I won't have the opportunity to try any of the above recommendations until tomorrow afternoon but I appreciate everyones input...keep'em coming.
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10-25-2007, 01:44 PM
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#19
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3 Rivet Member
2017 27' Flying Cloud
Columbus
, Indiana
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 159
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My 2 cents:
First penny - Find time to take it back to the AD with strapping tape (or some other 'keep it shut en route' solution.
Second penny - If you really can't get it back soon and must wait through the winter...then rent enclosed storage for one winter.
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10-25-2007, 01:45 PM
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#20
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Rivet Master
2011 34' Classic
Westchester Cty.NY
, / Miami FL
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,122
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take a look at the hinge pins. i'm not sure of model or years but some folks have had the pins try to escape. if you hold the latch open and hold the door in, will it then latch? as mentioned, see if the tongue of the latch lines up with the opening height.
__________________
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2012 F150 Super Crew 5-1/2' bed Ecoboost 4x4 3.73 elec. lock diff. Propride hitch
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