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Old 06-21-2008, 02:40 PM   #61
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update

Keep those SASE coming, folks.

We have plenty of the "fix" kits available, all at "no charge."

So far, the reports suggest a 100 percent happy fix, and not a single person was unhappy.

Hey, sometimes the simple things in life, are the answer.

Tell your friends, tell your neighbors, the more locks fixed, the better.

Andy
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Old 06-21-2008, 04:58 PM   #62
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Thanks alot - my request letter is in the mail........Bill
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Old 06-23-2008, 03:05 PM   #63
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Andy, Your generosity is deeply appreciated. I sent you my SASE today.
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Old 07-19-2008, 05:58 AM   #64
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Andy,
Is this fix for trailers as far back as '86? I'm currently locked out of mine after slamming the door (it's in the yard) and am looking for a skinny kid to get in through the side storage locker! I'll be sending an envelope too if it's a fix for a trailer this old!
Thanks, Andy!
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Old 07-19-2008, 09:56 AM   #65
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Originally Posted by beckybillrae View Post
Andy,
Is this fix for trailers as far back as '86? I'm currently locked out of mine after slamming the door (it's in the yard) and am looking for a skinny kid to get in through the side storage locker! I'll be sending an envelope too if it's a fix for a trailer this old!
Thanks, Andy!
Sorry, but that fix is not for your entrance door lock.

Getting into the trailer does not require a skinney kid.

There is a much easier way.

However, a thief would have a field day if I posted it, or even PM'd it.

Call and ask for Greg. He will tell you how, on the condition that you do not post the information.

You would normally call me, but I am out of the country, trying to relax.

Andy
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Old 07-19-2008, 10:36 AM   #66
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Thanks, Andy. I'll call Greg on Monday. Enjoy your vacation! Glad to see you're keeping tabs on everything even while you're away. But RELAX!!!!
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Old 07-19-2008, 10:49 AM   #67
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Thanks, Andy. I'll call Greg on Monday. Enjoy your vacation! Glad to see you're keeping tabs on everything even while you're away. But RELAX!!!!
Your entrance door lock was made by Keeler Brass or GM.

Parts that you probably need, are no longer available.

You can hunt for used parts, if you wish, or replace the lock with a "kit" that's available.

It is possible that the striker bolt could be broken in the right "wrong" place.

If that's the case, you may not be able to open the door, even from the inside.

If that happens, call Greg again.

Andy
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Old 07-19-2008, 11:09 AM   #68
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Once again, thanks for your assistance. I just placed my request in the mail - 5 minutes ago. Thanks .
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Old 07-19-2008, 12:56 PM   #69
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Hi Andy, I received my fix and installed it....took all of 5 minutes. Thanks again!
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Old 08-15-2008, 01:48 PM   #70
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Andy,

I am looking for the entrance door lock for my 1978 Excella 500. Do you also carry the parts for this lock? It is the 4" X 5 3/4" one and the key says Wartian Lock Company and PK 571 or possibly PK 577. The lock seems to work but the cylinder is worn.

Thanks for any help.
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Old 08-15-2008, 01:55 PM   #71
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Andy,

I am looking for the entrance door lock for my 1978 Excella 500. Do you also carry the parts for this lock? It is the 4" X 5 3/4" one and the key says Wartian Lock Company and PK 571 or possibly PK 577. The lock seems to work but the cylinder is worn.

Thanks for any help.
See post #67 above regarding Keeler Brass lock parts.

Because of that we came up with a kit lock that replaces Airstream locks from 1978 to 1991.

The door must be slightly modified, but very easy to do.

Andy
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Old 08-15-2008, 02:07 PM   #72
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Andy, I have a 1978 Argosy that has the original lock with the small pin/lever that locks it from the inside and a screen. I am apprehensive that it will break and we will not be able to enter or exit. I would also like to install a newer lock/dead bolt set. What type of lock and dead bolt will work with my Argosy and will I have to cut the screen for the dead bolt to work?
Regards,
JC Squiers
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Old 08-15-2008, 02:38 PM   #73
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Andy, I have a 1978 Argosy that has the original lock with the small pin/lever that locks it from the inside and a screen. I am apprehensive that it will break and we will not be able to enter or exit. I would also like to install a newer lock/dead bolt set. What type of lock and dead bolt will work with my Argosy and will I have to cut the screen for the dead bolt to work?
Regards,
JC Squiers
See post 71 above.

No, you do not have to cut the scrren door.

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Old 08-16-2008, 02:18 PM   #74
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Andy, Thanks once again for your assistance.
When replacing the 78 lock with your 22390 lock do I remove all of the old lock and plates then replace it with the 22390 lock and plates. Do I rivet it on and does it have a dead bolt? On another note can I put a window in my door and will I have to cut the screen to get at the new lock?
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Old 08-16-2008, 02:22 PM   #75
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Andy, Thanks once again for your assistance.
On another note can I put a window in my door?
JC Squiers
Can a window be put in your entrance door? Sure can.

Can you put it in? I have no idea about your talents.

Is it hard to do? No. But it must be done correctly, along with a window closeout.

If not, you may break the window when you slam the door.

Andy
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Old 08-16-2008, 03:52 PM   #76
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78 entrance door lock

Quote:
Originally Posted by Argy 78 View Post
Andy, I have a 1978 Argosy that has the original lock with the small pin/lever that locks it from the inside and a screen. I am apprehensive that it will break and we will not be able to enter or exit. I would also like to install a newer lock/dead bolt set. What type of lock and dead bolt will work with my Argosy and will I have to cut the screen for the dead bolt to work?
Regards,
JC Squiers
After taking the lock apart numerous times and finding the kit from Inland RV, we took it apart one more time. The cylinder on the lock seemed to be worn and the key could move it up and down and the pin at the back that actuated the lock would slip in too far to work the lock. We are "trying" the lock after installing a small washer from the back side of the cylinder before the plate is put back on. This seems to stabalize the cylinder and the lock works each time we try it. We have not yet reinstalled into the door..... Since our door comes off at the hinges on the side with 4 screws and with two people can be carefully reinstalled, we will just keep the screwdriver handy in case it will not open again. I really would like to have a new or used cylinder in good shape to install, but I am willing to try this. If it does not work, I will revert to the kit and door alteration with the plates. I hope this helps you. If I'm not clear on any points, please let me know. Lots of luck, nicholaskmt
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Old 08-16-2008, 05:24 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Argy 78 View Post
Andy, Thanks once again for your assistance.
When replacing the 78 lock with your 22390 lock do I remove all of the old lock and plates then replace it with the 22390 lock and plates. Do I rivet it on and does it have a dead bolt? On another note can I put a window in my door and will I have to cut the screen to get at the new lock?
JC Squiers
The 22390 kit indeed has a regular lock plus a deadbolt. Both operate with a key.

Andy
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Old 05-28-2013, 02:33 PM   #78
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I know this is an old post, and probably the guts of it are in many other threads, but I just confirmed that Andy is still sending these kits out for free.

I fixed a little problem with my door lock, and during my research, I found this problem and the offer from Andy before it has become an issue. When I fixed the lock, I lubed everything up with silicon spray and I can see how easy it could be to inadvertently lock the trailer as you exit. My previous RVs all had to be locked from the outside with a key. I didn't even realize that you could purposely lock the door as you left without a key. That seems good and bad.

Thanks Andy. Looking forward to seeing what the kit contains.

-Kevin
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Old 05-28-2013, 03:32 PM   #79
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Kevin,

Yes Andy is still sending these out, as a matter of fact I received mine today.

Thanks a bunch Andy.

-J
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