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Old 08-25-2019, 06:03 AM   #41
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2014 30' Classic
Rutledge , Tennessee
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Realignment for Reassembly

CanonFan -- That's exactly what I was talking about in my earlier post. I, too, couldn't identify anything that would the notch would fit into, and kept searching for some obvious connection.

There isn't one.

Simply hold the door handle parallel to the ground (the metal rotating piece on the back of the plate that has the square "notch" in it should be pointing down at the 6 o'clock position), and screw the plate back in. You'll find it works perfectly.
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Old 08-25-2019, 07:18 AM   #42
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Don't be concerned about the notch. It doesn't do anything or fit anything. What operates the latch is the forward edge of the lever, ahead of the notch.

As others have said, just level the handle and it'll go right back on and work properly.

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Old 08-25-2019, 07:49 AM   #43
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Thank you all very much. I really was surprised it was really that easy to reattach - but it really is! Sometimes we try to make things more difficult than they really are.
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Old 08-25-2019, 08:58 AM   #44
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Albuquerque , New Mexico
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Just completed the drawer handle addition above the door handle and feel it will preserve the life of the AS door handle.

I'd really like to do the MOD to strengthen the handle, but was wondering if anyone has tried using a self-tapping machine machine screw for the existing hole in the handle assembly as opposed to buying a tap set just for tapping the hole?

Having drilled the aluminum plate to install the drawer pull, it seems like an easy metal to use a self-tapping screw.
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Old 08-25-2019, 10:26 AM   #45
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Trois-Rivieres , Quebec
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Originally Posted by ondaroadagin View Post
When we recently spent some time at Jackson Center for repairs, I mentioned this event to the repair team and service writer. They sheepishly grinned, having seen the issue numerous times, and said, "That's why there's a handle on the screen."
I would be careful pulling the door shut with the screen door handle. If you look closely at the latching mechanism of the screen door to the main door, you will see that it is made of plastic held with three screws. This latch will break (don't ask why I know this...). That is why we opted for the extra stainless steel handle on the main door (see post #24).
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Old 09-08-2019, 03:54 PM   #46
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So, as with Greg, our upgrade has a bit of alternate components. Screw is a 3/4" 10-32 flat head. The head has a beveled edge (countersink) that centers in the washer to give a low profile assembly. Could countersink the washer slightly, but did not seem necessary. Tapped the hole with a 10-32 standard and finished with a bottoming tap. Drill size was #21. Used the bigger washer for the spacer like Greg, but a smaller washer to mate with the screw. Same size fender washer as the spacer might be a better component, but it would not work with the countersunk screw configuration.

We'll see how long this lasts. Install was much easier than expected. Pat
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Old 09-11-2019, 09:56 AM   #47
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Blue Sky Ranch , Texas
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I just pulled the inside plate off and examined the handle. What I found says that they may have made some changes (for the better) but the sloppiness is still there. However, I don't see the possibility of the black latch handle coming out due to the application at the factory of some black epoxy and a lot of end deforming. I may put the screw/washer in but don't see the need now. (I did install the emergency hole should I be wrong).

To alleviate the problem of pulling the door closed with the black latch handle and contributing to the slop problem further, I did install a cabinet pull above the latch handle on the black sole plate (like the earlier suggestion in this thread). This makes pulling the door closed a solid matter and it makes opening the latch easy -- you just pinch the two together.

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Old 02-04-2020, 11:15 AM   #48
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My interior door handle broke. Where can I get the replacement part? Thanks in advance
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Old 02-04-2020, 12:36 PM   #49
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Now that we've solved the "pull" issue, take a moment to understand WHY it breaks. As someone demonstrated, the black handle is simply press fit on the shaft. The shaft already has a hole in it, so he tapped the hole for a 10/24 screw, then fashioned a washer as a spacer, and now the handle won't come off again.
Thanks Dennawayne: scroll to post #25
I decided to go with a black pull, with 4" screw spacing, and as low a profile as possible to clear the screen closure.
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Old 02-04-2020, 01:13 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by J-K Georgia View Post
sex* describing pins in a connector ... Some one will always be insulted, inflamed or bothered by what is said.
Glad you mentioned that some of us might be insulted, inflamed or bothered. I feel very "triggered" by your mentioning that you're not mentioning calling pins m*** and fe****. I'd write more, but I need to get to my therapist right away. I'm hoping she can fit me in. Um, I meant he. Or they. Or Zhe. AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAA
[crawling under the desk] **

*By the way, you mean "gender," not sex.

**For those of ya'll who don't do humor, this was (an attempt at) humor.
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Old 02-04-2020, 01:15 PM   #51
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Door handle fix

Thanks to all of you for making me aware of the problem and coming up with a solution ... and those great pix! This is now on my list.
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Old 04-05-2020, 01:33 PM   #52
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Loudon , Tennessee
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Completed the door handle mod today and think why didn't I do this sooner. $4.00 handle from Home Depot.Click image for larger version

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