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Old 09-19-2003, 03:58 PM   #21
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Greg.

Your correct for 1978 to 1991.

1970 to 1977 trailer entrance door locks, such as you have, is the 'BIG" one.

Can you update a 1970 to 1977?

Sure can. But........

You must plate the exterior and interior of the door, and drill new holes.

About a 4 hour plus job, by the time your done.

Replacing the striker pocket, is also a must.

Andy
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Old 09-20-2003, 12:23 AM   #22
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Had the same thing happen to my Overlander right as I was doing a buyer inspection. The handle has a shaft with a cam at the top of it, it decided to break off just as the previous owner pulled on it to show me the insides. The poor guy, I still remember the look on his face, He must have known how much a lock really costs. I did manage to get in but can tell you the lock was the first thing on that trailer that I fixed. Got the cam welded back on with no problems and it still works fine to this day. Good thing I didn't know then what I do know now in regards to those $600 door latches or else I would have !@#$ a brick!!

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Old 03-07-2004, 01:20 PM   #23
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Update

Thought I would post now that we have gotten our trailer back from Buena Vista to fix the door problem (Could not get in as paddle handle just flopped back and forth). We were successful in removing the hinge pins from the door. We used a very small diameter drill pick on the underneath side of the hinge pin assembly and then tapped and slowly pulled the hinge pin(s) out, being careful not to lose the washers. There was some difficulty after we removed the hinge pins with getting the door past the hinge assembly attached to the outside of the trailer. We had to carefully pry the hinge attached to the door around the (there will be some touch up painting to do) hinge assembly attached to the trailer, but it did pop around with minimal damage and the door came off easily after that. It also went back on easily! Our lock was not broken - the spring inside somehow had moved (been forced) beyond a little bent pin and then the pin wouldn't allow the spring back. We feel very fortunate and glad we called Charlie in Idaho as this turned out to be a minor mishap. YEA!
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Old 03-07-2004, 03:44 PM   #24
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At the computer rally this last week, we had to evacuate a couple from an early 90s 34-footer when the door latch went south; both the inside and outside handles just flopped without resistance. We evacuated them the people through the rear escape window.

We got the door off the hinges and crippled the lock so that it couldn't latch again. They still had an operable dead bolt to get them home.
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Old 03-11-2004, 08:18 AM   #25
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new numbers lock

Don't really know how to call the new lock unit that uses pre-chosen numbers to open the lock- but can that be put on a 1971 31" sov.? my family makes jokes about how easily I loose keys, but I come back with the 2 times my husband lost car keys while snorkeling WAAAAY out.

Are those units reliable? If the 1971 locking mechanism is as unreliable as it sounds, I'd rather address the problem right away.
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Old 03-11-2004, 08:38 AM   #26
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silver suz

Your lock is called "KT."

They were used from 1970 to 1977.

They can be repaired, not cheaply, as all the parts for it are expensive.

Airstreams price for that lock is $600.67.

Modifying the door for a different type lock, requires some sheet metal work, and perhaps a stiffner within the door. The type striker pocket with a different lock may also hinder the attempt.

Andy
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Old 03-11-2004, 09:23 AM   #27
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Question locks

I have seen Airstreams for sale that mention proudly that they have this type of combo button lock. Aren't they still available?

as for sheet metal work- that's considered "fun" by my older son, he would just have to know what and where to reinforce.

Also are dead bolts available for old 1971 airstreams- it can be a new dead bolt- I'm not a purist. I want to feel safe.

By the way do you know what I would have to do to get internetall the time in my trailer? Like satillite?

Thanks, silver suz, in TX too, but disabled and unable to drive.
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Old 03-11-2004, 09:28 AM   #28
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silver suz

"DO NOT" cut or make any holes in the "cast" metal door frtame. To do so will severely weaken it.

Adding a dead bolt, will weaken that frame.

Are you talking about the electronic lock that has a key pad?

Andyi
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Old 03-11-2004, 09:40 AM   #29
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key pad

YES! I think that's what I mean! Would that work in a 1971 sov???
It scares me to hear about all these lock failures for my year as I will be spending a significant time alone and being disabled- DO NOT want to ever deal with that problem. and I don't want to be dependent on other people, however generous, to fix my problems, if it's something I can take care of now. I can't be locked out of my medications, oxygen, or safe- clean-room, for even a couple of minutes. the reality is it could mean the difference between life or death, no sympathy please- it's just a fact.

Thanks for your help, Silver Suz
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Old 03-11-2004, 10:03 AM   #30
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If you have the Keeler lock assembly (later 70's and on)
you can replace the tumbler which is the most often broken part. It cracks from age and usage. This tumbler is 10-15 dollars available at many RV parts places. It is easily replaced, although you will have to use the new key that comes with it.
I did the on in my motorhome when I first bought it.

Part is a Bargman L-300 assembly.
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Old 03-11-2004, 12:42 PM   #31
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silver suz

The key pad lock is very expensive and would not easily work on your trailer.

Keeler Brass locks were not used until the 1978 models.

You could remove your lock, send it in to be overhauled. That should give you at least 20 more years of service from it, I would think.

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Old 03-11-2004, 01:26 PM   #32
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where can I get the keypad code

I have a keypad on my limited, however I do not know the code. either does the previous owner.
VIN # maybe. I understand that ford designed it.

RIck
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Old 03-27-2004, 06:06 PM   #33
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MH door locks

My original broke so replaced with the one in the pic. Also added a deadbolt for extra security. Nice install by RV specialist.
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Old 03-27-2004, 06:07 PM   #34
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Inside peek

of the deadbolt
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Old 03-27-2004, 06:10 PM   #35
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HOWEVER...

he messed up the aluminum latch for the screen door, so I temp replaced with 2 screws and thin metal until some nice person here posts a pic of what it should or could look like. I think i need to have someone weld or solder a 90 degree solid aluminum piece to the screen door frame.
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Old 03-27-2004, 06:12 PM   #36
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BTW, he had said when I pointed that out to him that the door was already in that condition..yet that lock didn't fit flush as the smaller original did. If I were to do again I would send out to rebuils as Andy suggests.
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Old 03-27-2004, 06:17 PM   #37
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my screen door has a piece of metal welded right there also. Works ok but I wondered what the original latch was like.
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Old 03-28-2004, 03:21 PM   #38
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Door Lock

Quote:
Originally posted by Inland RV Center, In
The $600.00 replacement lock is for a 1970 to 1977 trailer, only.

In 1978 Airstream used a lock mad by Keeler Brass. They are no longer in business.

A replacement lock kit is available that fits the 1978 to 1991 trailers.

It's cost is less than $150.00.

As per Airstream, a small modification to the door is necessary.

Total installation time is 1 hour or less.

Not something everyone can do, but most certainly by the person that has a few basic tools and a little mechanical moxie.

Andy,
So the replacment door lock/handle assembly can be purchased thru a airstream dealer for a 1980 model?
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