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11-18-2013, 01:58 PM
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#21
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2 Rivet Member
1992 29' Excella
Tulsa
, Oklahoma
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 36
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Wow, i've been looking for that exact interior knob for my deadbolt. I'm missing the key (PO), but use the deadbolt at night. ANy ideas where one might be found?
Thanks.
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11-18-2013, 03:14 PM
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#22
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4 Rivet Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 298
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I bought mine at McMaster.com, $27.00, plus shipping, about $32.00.
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11-18-2013, 03:15 PM
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#23
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4 Rivet Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 298
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It's called a mortise lock
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11-19-2013, 06:44 AM
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#24
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1 Rivet Member
1984 34' Excella
St. Louis
, Missouri
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tltulsa
Wow, i've been looking for that exact interior knob for my deadbolt. I'm missing the key (PO), but use the deadbolt at night. ANy ideas where one might be found? Thanks.
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The knob came with the throw at Airstream supply, but I think I have seen them separately, too.
Is there a way to email me through my profile? I'll have an extra knob?
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11-19-2013, 09:33 AM
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#25
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Rivet Master
1984 31' Excella
Broken Arrow
, Oklahoma
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 673
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Deadbolt
Titulsa
There should be a good locksmith there in your community that can read the pins and fabricate you a key. That will be easier than removing and replacing the lock cylinder in the door grab handle. If possible it would be cheaper to take the trailer to the locksmith and easire to let them come to the trailer. I personally did not trust the door handle lock to hold the door shut going down the road so I fashioned a wooden wedge with a knotch that locked into the grab handle and over laped the door to make sure that the door would not come open going down the road until I got the deadbolt repaired.
Beginner
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11-20-2013, 09:07 AM
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#26
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1 Rivet Member
1984 34' Excella
St. Louis
, Missouri
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 6
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We have taken ours to 2 locksmiths. Both said that the Schlage deadbolt was VERY tricky to impression. One tried and couldn't get it. The other said he could spend hours on it and there would be no guarantee he could get it, so we didn't try.
We rigged a hood latch on the outside of ours to keep the door closed while traveling, but decided it was still catching the wind and damaging the door (which is warped like crazy anyway) so that is when we decided to drill out the wall and re-key the deadbolt. Getting it out of the wall was the hard part, the hardware store had it re-keyed in no time.
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11-20-2013, 10:32 AM
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#27
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Rivet Master
1981 31' Excella II
New Market
, Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 6,145
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I had to replace the whole lock with a new one and it was smaller than the original and I had to make a custom trim ring to go around it. Remove the inner skin to the left of the door on the inside and remove the handle and the lock comes off with it. There are two small screws that hold the lock onto the handle. Remove those and take the lock to a locksmith and he should be able to recore it.
Perry
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12-26-2013, 10:34 PM
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#28
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2 Rivet Member
1992 29' Excella
Tulsa
, Oklahoma
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 36
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Thanks for all the feedback gang. I'm going to take bits and pieces of this advice. Hopefully, the locksmith can get it without a complete removal.
tltulsa
__________________
1992 Excella Classic 29'
...2013 Chevy 2500 HD, 6.0 Gasser
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03-31-2014, 05:56 AM
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#29
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1 Rivet Member
1989 32' Excella
Helena
, Alabama
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beginner
Ok, I drilled all the rivets and removed the inner door facing trim piece.
I drilled the rivets holding the inner skin to the door rib roughly 12 inches past the door handle top and bottom. Had to do this to enable me to warp the inner skin out enough to get my fat hand and a wrench (with a string tied to it incase I dropped it) and removed the two 1/4-20 nuts on the bottom of the handle and the top (covered partly by the dead bolt assembly) for a total of four nuts.
Pulled gently until the handle came off the side of the trailer, then pushed the door bell button out of the handle. Placed the handle back on the side of the trailer. This gave me enough wire to remove the door bell wires from the switch and tape each wire then push back through the grommet.
What was the goo they used to seal it all? It was white.
Drilled the rivets holding the dead bolt to the door facing and removed same from the doorfacing.
Drilled the rivets holding the dead bolt body together.
There are no gears in my unit just an arm connecting the piece the cylinder square rod goes through to the bolt itself.
What happened was the detent spring broke and jammed the piece the square rod goes through so that it wouldn't turn and move the bolt.
Now I have to find a spring.
Pictures to follow.
Jim
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I know this is an old thread but was wondering if you ever found a spring. I had the same thing happen and am thinking about putting it back together without a spring. It seems the over center feature will allow it to work normally, just without the positive feel of the spring. Also, what type of lubricant did you use before putting it back together? I see a small reservoir that I'm guessing is for additional lubricant, it's the circular cavity. It has a small opening to the shaft.
Thanks
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03-31-2014, 06:57 AM
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#30
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Rivet Master
1981 31' Excella II
New Market
, Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 6,145
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I would put some Moly Based wheel bearing grease in there. This is the black stuff. Moly will lube even when the grease is dried up.
Perry
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03-31-2014, 12:08 PM
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#31
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1 Rivet Member
1989 32' Excella
Helena
, Alabama
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 19
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Thanks Perry
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