|
12-17-2012, 09:50 PM
|
#1
|
3 Rivet Member
1975 31' Sovereign
cary
, North Carolina
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 150
|
'75 KT lock, roll pins?
So, I have sought to rebuild this lock. I have all the pieaces as well as the lock cylinder(original) and extra spare blank key, But I am having some problems pulling the pins out of the "paddle?" theirs 2, I was able to drill one out, but the other one I cant seem to get the bit to hit it dead center, or grab it, the pins are rusted out. heres some pics...
My question is, do I take this to a machine shop? or can I do it here at home? im not worried about the the pin the paddle connects to, I just have to get it out, so I can replace it.
|
|
|
12-18-2012, 01:00 AM
|
#2
|
3 Rivet Member
1975 31' Sovereign
cary
, North Carolina
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 150
|
THe piece I'm trying to replace is the vertical shaft, and the lever spring, so as a not, if I have to cut the vertical shaft out, I'm not opposed.
|
|
|
12-18-2012, 03:28 AM
|
#3
|
Rivet Master
Commercial Member
1993 34' Excella
York
, South Carolina
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 3,417
|
Shad, those look like roll pins, which are hard steel and may be difficult to drill out. A drill press , running slow with some cutting oil, and a clamp might get it done.
Have you tried soaking them with a good penetrating oil and then a drift punch?
John
__________________
John
WBCCI #268 Palmetto State Airstream Club 22
Region 3 Past President....come with us, you will like it.
Go often to the house of a friend, for weeds choke the unused path........Emerson
Are you kind?..... Uncle John's Band
|
|
|
12-18-2012, 05:41 AM
|
#4
|
Retired.
Currently Looking...
.
, At Large
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 21,276
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by shadeemry
So, I have sought to rebuild this lock. I have all the pieaces as well as the lock cylinder(original) and extra spare blank key, But I am having some problems pulling the pins out of the "paddle?" theirs 2, I was able to drill one out, but the other one I cant seem to get the bit to hit it dead center, or grab it, the pins are rusted out. heres some pics...
My question is, do I take this to a machine shop? or can I do it here at home? im not worried about the the pin the paddle connects to, I just have to get it out, so I can replace it.
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by shadeemry
THe piece I'm trying to replace is the vertical shaft, and the lever spring, so as a not, if I have to cut the vertical shaft out, I'm not opposed.
|
You're not that far away from your local dealer, and it would probably be worth your time to take the lock there for repair. I know they have the parts, and the guy I suspect will be given the task of repairing it has a KT lock, and knows how to repair them.
__________________
Meddle not in the affairs of dragons, for you are crunchy, and taste good with ketchup.
Terry
|
|
|
12-18-2012, 05:57 AM
|
#5
|
3 Rivet Member
1975 31' Sovereign
cary
, North Carolina
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 150
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by sandlapper
Shad, those look like roll pins, which are hard steel and may be difficult to drill out. A drill press , running slow with some cutting oil, and a clamp might get it done.
Have you tried soaking them with a good penetrating oil and then a drift punch?
John
|
I'll try the drift punch, but doesn't that require that you have access to both sides?
|
|
|
12-18-2012, 06:38 AM
|
#6
|
Rivet Master
1971 21' Globetrotter
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Arvada
, Colorado
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 3,530
|
Are you using a roll pin punch, as they have a small ball on the end to stay centered on the pin. they are designed for removing roll pins
Amazon.com: Craftsman 9-43167 Roll Pin Punch Set, 6-Piece: Home Improvement
|
|
|
12-18-2012, 06:55 AM
|
#7
|
3 Rivet Member
1975 31' Sovereign
cary
, North Carolina
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 150
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerowood
|
Im pretty new at this roll pin thing, do I insert the punch and use it to pull out? As far as I can tell, these are blind holes, the roll pins cant slide out a back, its right against the handle itself, and these have to be removed in order to pull the vertical shaft out to replace it.
|
|
|
12-18-2012, 10:07 AM
|
#8
|
Rivet Master
Commercial Member
1993 34' Excella
York
, South Carolina
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 3,417
|
Shad , if it is indeed a roll pin it will need to be punched out, requiring, as you noted, access to the back side. The proper punch would also maker an easier task.
I don't know how much beating and banging the lock can take before it breaks. Some penetrating oil may help.
John
__________________
John
WBCCI #268 Palmetto State Airstream Club 22
Region 3 Past President....come with us, you will like it.
Go often to the house of a friend, for weeds choke the unused path........Emerson
Are you kind?..... Uncle John's Band
|
|
|
12-19-2012, 08:08 AM
|
#9
|
Rivet Master
1971 21' Globetrotter
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Arvada
, Colorado
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 3,530
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by shadeemry
Im pretty new at this roll pin thing, do I insert the punch and use it to pull out? As far as I can tell, these are blind holes, the roll pins cant slide out a back, its right against the handle itself, and these have to be removed in order to pull the vertical shaft out to replace it.
|
I don't remember if the holes went all the way through or not. The tools I showed you are for removing pins that are in though holes.
I removed my KT latch, sold it and replaced it with a different type of latch that only cost 40 bucks. I had to reskin the door anyway because it was in sad shape. Its all in my thread below as to how I did this.
|
|
|
12-19-2012, 01:51 PM
|
#10
|
3 Rivet Member
1975 31' Sovereign
cary
, North Carolina
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 150
|
So it turns out the kt locks are not dead end holes, their very tricky..
And you HAVE to be careful, this locks are made of pot metal.
The holes diameter looks to be 1/16 boarding 1/8. Their standard roll pins.
|
|
|
01-07-2013, 10:06 PM
|
#11
|
Rivet Master
1986 32' Excella
Currently Looking...
Canton
, Georgia
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,342
|
I know this is to late to help but I just came across this thread since I share the login with my wife. I have been a certified locksmith for 25 years and I have removed hundreds of blind roll pins over the years in car ignition locks,safes etc. so I thought I would let you know how I did it. First, use a small drill bit, usually somewhere in the 1/16 to 1/8 range and start drilling a hole parallel next to the roll pin. As soon as the bit starts cutting, turn and angle the drilling at about a 45 degree angle to the pin and drill towards it until you just nick it and then stop. (I do it like this because its to hard to start drilling on a curved surface at a 45 degree angle) You have now created a place for leverage. Then I take an awl or some people call it a scratch awl with a nice point ground on the end of it and with the hardware or lock in a vise or somewhere where you can push hard away from yourself and or hands so you don't stab yourself you push into the hole you drilled against the roll pin and pry up. The roll pin will come up enough to grab it with good plyers. This hole will not damage the integrity of the roll pin or hardware and can be tapped back in after service. I used to take a little lead shot ball and tap it in the hole I drilled afterwards and file it smooth to cosmetically make the hole disappear.
|
|
|
03-12-2013, 05:59 PM
|
#12
|
Moderator Emeritus
1972 31' Sovereign
High Springs
, Florida
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 2,311
|
Mine just bit the dust this weekend. Had to cut the front screen out to gain access to open the door.
I got the latch out and it appears that one of the roll pins rusted completely away, and the other one was partly rusted and failed due to the extra load on it.
Got it apart, so all I need to do is get the remnants out and put new pins in. Otherwise lock set is in good shape except for the actual latch bolt, which is worn.
I am thinking of filling it in with a mig welder and then grinding it back down to "normal". Has anyone done this?
__________________
ARS WA8ZYT
2003 GMC 2500HD 4X4 D/A Ext. Cab
Propane Powered Honda EU2000i
Lots of Hot Sauce!
Air # 283
WBCCI 1350
|
|
|
03-19-2013, 10:41 PM
|
#13
|
3 Rivet Member
1975 31' Sovereign
cary
, North Carolina
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 150
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pick
Mine just bit the dust this weekend. Had to cut the front screen out to gain access to open the door.
I got the latch out and it appears that one of the roll pins rusted completely away, and the other one was partly rusted and failed due to the extra load on it.
Got it apart, so all I need to do is get the remnants out and put new pins in. Otherwise lock set is in good shape except for the actual latch bolt, which is worn.
I am thinking of filling it in with a mig welder and then grinding it back down to "normal". Has anyone done this?
|
Got pics so we can see better? And don't weld that at all..it's pot metal..that would destroy that lock so I'm told.
|
|
|
03-27-2013, 09:39 AM
|
#14
|
Moderator Emeritus
1972 31' Sovereign
High Springs
, Florida
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 2,311
|
The only part that I was going to fill in weld was the actual bolt. It does not appear to be made of "pot metal", but of some kind of steel.
RickDavis was a guest for a weekend, and he and I decided to fill in the groove with JB Weld. I have not used the door much, since the new roll pins and fill in were performed, just about once a day to open/close windows and vents.
I will post some pictures after I am able to re-size them, for the forum.
__________________
ARS WA8ZYT
2003 GMC 2500HD 4X4 D/A Ext. Cab
Propane Powered Honda EU2000i
Lots of Hot Sauce!
Air # 283
WBCCI 1350
|
|
|
03-27-2013, 10:26 PM
|
#15
|
Rivet Master
1978 31' Sovereign
Oakley
, California
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,197
|
I fixed mine...the tab of pot metal that the spring compresses against was broken. JB weld worked great! Also, I replaced my roll pins because they had elongated the holes in the shaft. I replaced them with split pins from Ace Hardware for .20 cents each. The split in the shaft allows it to compress during entry into the pilot hole and expand and tighten up when installed. So far, so good...the latch assy. works great!
|
|
|
03-28-2013, 12:19 AM
|
#16
|
3 Rivet Member
1975 31' Sovereign
cary
, North Carolina
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 150
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phrunes
I fixed mine...the tab of pot metal that the spring compresses against was broken. JB weld worked great! Also, I replaced my roll pins because they had elongated the holes in the shaft. I replaced them with split pins from Ace Hardware for .20 cents each. The split in the shaft allows it to compress during entry into the pilot hole and expand and tighten up when installed. So far, so good...the latch assy. works great!
|
heck yeah, well now I have an extra kt lock.
|
|
|
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
Recent Discussions |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|