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11-22-2010, 01:49 PM
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#1
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Rivet Master
1973 27' Overlander
Tucson
, AZ
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,480
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'73 Door Handle went to crap
Long weekend ... for me, my trailer and my truck.
A friend of mine came to me in the campground and said, "I can't get your trailer door to open". Knowing it wasn't locked, my heart instantly sank. I recalled reading too many posts on this site about the handle and it's dubious repair history.... My exterior door handle would pull out but it didn't do anything to unlatch the door. Thankfully, prior posts also mentioned crawling through a rear compartment door to get inside. I wiggled my butt through the compartment and my dog went ape-sheit as she saw me *prairie dogging up" from under the curbside bed. The interior door handle didn't do anything either and the door remained latched until I pushed on the bottom corner of the door with my foot -- and it sprung open. Since it wouldn't relatch in a closed position, I needed to figure out how to secure it for traveling home without it swinging open and ripping off. I remembered some folks using a door stop and/or a custom wedge to place between the door and the adjacent handle to secure the suicide door closed in transit. I scavenged some metal scraps, a spare locking hitch pin, ratcheting straps and Gorilla tape and was able to secure it closed. I wish I had a picture of the contraption but, alais, the camera was inside.
The outside handle no longer springs back to it's flush/flat psition. The interior handle just swings freely. The locking pin is frozen in place and SEEMS to be in the unlocked position.
I see that the KT Lock is not readily available (for under $600+). I also see that Inland RV has a replacement lock/kit available for installation with some door modifications. I guess I want to see what's up with the original first (and I found the diagram someone else posted awhile ago). But, I'm not certain where to start. Is the first step removing the interior door skin - i.e. drilling out all them rivets? Please let me the easiest way to get to the lock!!!
Laura
Who also returned with a rear truck window that would not operate - and it's raining. Figures. Guess I can resume ruminating about my "life change" later...
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11-22-2010, 02:03 PM
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#2
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Rivet Master
1974 Argosy 26
Morrill
, Nebraska
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 6,014
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Don't buy new yet!
Can you post a photo of the lock? It may be the same as the one on my '74 Argosy. If so, it is a very simple device, once removed from the door you may be able to make the necessary repairs. I didn't have to remove the inside skin to remove mine. I was able to repair it without much of a hassle.
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11-22-2010, 02:07 PM
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#3
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x
XXXX
, XXXX
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,601
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Laura your lock should be the same as my 73. There are 3 screws on the inner door panel holding the lock and one on the edge of the door. Remove them and the inside door handle(screw from below into handle shaft) and the inside lock knob. You should be able to remove the entire lockset now. There is a small split pin on the shaft for the lock bolt. Either the pin has broken or worst case the shaft itself has snapped and the pin location. The split pin is easily purchased and any hardware store(the big orange has them). Can you post any pics of door and lock?
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11-22-2010, 02:08 PM
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#4
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Rivet Master
1981 27' Excella II
mays landing
, South Jersey
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,179
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I feel your pain. Early this year while camping in Md. woke up to find us locked in. Forced door open. Found a piece of driftwood on the beach and wedged it in for the ride home. Took the latch apart and found 30 year old shavings of aluminum from when it was originally fit to the door. The slide bolt had broke and fell between the door skins. Cut a hole in the inside skin and retrieved it and had it welded back together by a certified welder. It has been working fine ever since. Keep it lubed up. The 30 year old lube just wasnt working anymore. I keep that piece of driftwood just in case. Make sure you dont slam the door [per Andy]. SAL
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11-22-2010, 02:13 PM
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#5
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Rivet Master
1973 27' Overlander
Tucson
, AZ
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,480
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previously posted by azflycaster
This same door lock is on my trailer... but this one is prettier.
Oh, and an interior pic from my Ophelia. I see the three inside screws! I know what's for dinner tonight.
Laura
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11-22-2010, 02:38 PM
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#6
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Rivet Master
2008 27' Classic FB
1959 22' Flying Cloud
fairview
, New Mexico
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 575
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here is an exploded view from out of doors mart. Most of the parts are available
__________________
Avion C11
1959 Flying Cloud 1969 Tradewind
1973 Safari
1983 34 ft Limited
2004 F250 superduty ext cab
2014 F350 longbed superduty crewcab
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11-22-2010, 02:46 PM
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#7
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x
XXXX
, XXXX
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,601
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Laura here's some pics of my trailer and the old lock. Excuse my feeble attempt at marking the pics with paint. They should help.
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11-22-2010, 03:42 PM
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#8
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Rivet Master
1973 27' Overlander
Tucson
, AZ
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,480
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wasagachris
Laura here's some pics of my trailer and the old lock. Excuse my feeble attempt at marking the pics with paint. They should help.
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Screw driver in one hand, Miller Lite in the other. Glad I don't need a flashlight or I'd have to call it quits. I'll report back with my findings. Thanks for the details.
Laura
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11-22-2010, 04:36 PM
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#9
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Rivet Master
1971 21' Globetrotter
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Arvada
, Colorado
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 3,530
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If you feel like a real adventurer you can replace it with a more modern type. I replaced mine but had to re-skin the door to do it. check it out on my thread below post 231 and then again on post 250
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f416...nte-26902.html
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11-22-2010, 06:36 PM
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#10
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Rivet Master
1973 27' Overlander
Tucson
, AZ
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,480
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Okay - turned into a two beer, slice of pizza, 6 trips to the house kinda job...
I have to admit to the fact that, generally, women have less upper body strength than men. So, persuading screws out of place can sometimes be a challenge. The third turd of a screw started to strip and I ended up cutting a slot for a straight edge screw driver. Added WD-40 three or four thousand times and got the latch assembly out!!!
Here's what I have - see anything suspect? I haven't identified the culprit yet but first thought is to look closer at the split pin...
Thanks for all the help thus far. Just one doorn thing after another.
Laura
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11-22-2010, 06:58 PM
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#11
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Rivet Master
1973 27' Overlander
Tucson
, AZ
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,480
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Couple more pictures. I can see what's not working but I don't know why. The split roll pin moves freely forward and aft.
Looks like the end of the Vertical Handle Shaft (SKU 3043) is bent and is no longer making any contact with the split roll pin. And the small snap wire thing probably isn't in the right place either. I don't see how to change this part out - looks like it is press fit in place? I see some details on the Out-of-Doors Mart website but not enough to figure it out right now. Maybe a call to them in the morning will help...
First pic of where the Vertical Handle shaft is not making contact with the pin and is not acting on the spring. Second pic shows the bent lever part of the Vert Handle Shaft.
Laura
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11-22-2010, 07:29 PM
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#12
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Rivet Master
1973 27' Overlander
Tucson
, AZ
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,480
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Looks like the (SKU 3006) Small Roll Pin that fits onto the slide bolt (SKU 3045) is either gone or has sheared off. Again, maybe a call to Out-of-Doors Mart will reveal how it is replaced.
Boy - their site has quite a bit of information. Yeah!
Laura
PS - In post #11 above, I erroneously referred to the Slide Bolt as the Split Roll Pin... should have said:
Couple more pictures. I can see what's not working but I don't know why. The SLIDE BOLT moves freely forward and aft.
Looks like the end of the Vertical Handle Shaft (SKU 3043) is bent and is no longer making any contact with the SLIDE BOLT.
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11-22-2010, 07:37 PM
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#13
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Rivet Master
1973 27' Overlander
Tucson
, AZ
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,480
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerowood
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Sweet - latches with a "gentle nudge". I don't know what that means
Laura
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11-23-2010, 09:12 AM
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#14
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Rivet Master
1973 27' Overlander
Tucson
, AZ
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,480
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Also, I presume a good cleaning is in order... then lube with what?
laura
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11-23-2010, 10:28 AM
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#15
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Rivet Master
1981 27' Excella II
mays landing
, South Jersey
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,179
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I used white lithium grease. Sal.
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11-23-2010, 05:45 PM
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#16
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Rivet Master
1974 Argosy 26
Morrill
, Nebraska
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 6,014
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Laura: It looks to me like the pin is broken off that holds the spring back. Part # SKu-3006. I'm going to try to attach a pic from Out of Doors Mart that shows a pin next to the locking mechanism cam. The pin is holding tension on the spring and there is a spacer plate next to the pin. In your pic it appears that the pin is sheared off. In the pic with your thumb and forefinger, just to the right of center; there should be a pin thru the shaft that is 90 degrees to the pin on the left side of the photo below. It is just above the letter "O" on the diagonal printed letters "ODMRV.COM". The letters on the right. Look closely; you will see a pin slightly angled, that is holding the spring back.
I always hold the handle in the open position when ever I close the door, then release the handle so the door will latch when closed. After having this lock apart, I can see how it gets damaged by just slamming the door shut.
In the picture below notice that the vertical pin is resting against the cam plate that is operated by the handle shaft. If the verticle pin is too far to the right the handle cam plate will miss it. Can you see how the spring holds it against the cam plate?
If that pin is broken, you can probably get one at a hardware or auto parts store. It's called a "split roll pin" Take the lock with you because you will need a punch to remove the old pin and it has to be the proper size in diameter to work. I hope I have identified your problem.
I am sure a locksmith could fix it if you don't want to try it yourself.
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12-17-2010, 07:29 PM
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#17
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Rivet Master
1974 Argosy 26
Morrill
, Nebraska
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 6,014
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?????
Laura: did you get your lock repaired?
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12-18-2010, 07:44 AM
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#18
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Rivet Master
1973 27' Overlander
Tucson
, AZ
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,480
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Are you kidding me?
Hey - I posted a follow-up several days ago - where'd it go? I even received a PM regarding that final post. Too weird.
But yes Twinkie --- I did get it fixed. My dad has some great little tools that I used to pushing out the broken pin. But, in order to do this, I also had to remove the more forward pin. Then I pulled the whole shaft thing out and pushed out the damaged pin, put it all back together and installed two new split roll pins (2 different sizes) that I bought at the local ACE Hardware store.
I mounted it in place earlier this week. And, although the handle doesn't sit completely flush anymore, it works better than ever! My guess is that the hinge for the handle was defored a bit from the excessive pulling on it (by my guest). I'm not going to fret over it though. Thanks for the tip about using extra care when closing. I'll have to stress this to my camping guests - who are often under 10 and believe slamming doors is the ONLY way to close a door.
Laura
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12-18-2010, 08:00 AM
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#19
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Rivet Master
1974 Argosy 26
Morrill
, Nebraska
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 6,014
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No $$$$
Glad I could help and to hear you didn't have to lay out big bucks.
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12-18-2010, 10:20 AM
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#20
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3 Rivet Member
1962 16' Bambi
2001 31' Limited
1985 29' Sovereign
Jenison
, Michigan
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 142
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This brings back all kinds of BAD memories! A few years ago, the door lock on one of our previous Airstreams broke. Thank goodness, the back window was open......I cut the screen and sent a grandchild in.....no luck. The ONLY way to open the door was to take it off by the hinges from the outside. That was one HEAVY door. I took the lock apart, found the broken part, had it brazed at a machine shop, and for 2 bucks it was fixed. I spent at least 8 hours on that project.........it was not fun!
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