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Old 01-29-2005, 05:48 AM   #1
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1975 door lock

Does anybody know the model number used on the 1975 overlander . I believe this lock is a bargeman lock . Mine still works now but I would like to start looking for a rebuild kit now before I need one, thanks
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Old 01-29-2005, 10:11 AM   #2
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airtim

1970 to 1977 Airstream and Argosy trailers used a lock called KT.

It's present day Airstream price is $550.01, plus shipping. Some dealers sell them for a little less.

There is no such thing as a repair kit for that type lock.

The usual problem with them is the tumbler goes bad, and the striker bolt gets a groove in it, so that after a while, you cannot open the door from the inside.

The striker bolt and striker pocket wear comes from lack of proper running gear balance.

Replacement parts for the KT lock, are not bargain basement, but expensive.

Andy
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Old 02-12-2005, 01:24 PM   #3
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Andy is right.
He is the only one I know that even repairs them.
I bought a 1977 20 foot Minuet back in the summer. The PO had Andy rebuild the lock for him. He gave me the receipt from that repair. "YIKES!" was my reaction when I saw the cost, (a little over $300). When I got the trailer home, the lock seemed "stiff" so I took it off and looked inside and saw that there isn't much in there. What is in there is not made of your run-of-the-mill metals either.
I could see how $300 to get one rebuilt is justifiable. The are small parts in there and these parts are not manufactured any longer. The parts in mine look as if they were machined, this means customized work.
I threw some WD-40 on everything and it all works BETTER than new.
Andy and his guys ROCK!
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Old 03-08-2005, 12:42 PM   #4
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Can anyone tell me:
1. What kind of metal is the body of the KT lock made of? I have one that works other than the flange that holds the shaft of the outside handle is broken. I have a metal worker friend who says he might be able to repair it but needs to know the composition.

2. Are there any practical, less expensive aftermarket locks that can replace the KT lock?
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Old 03-08-2005, 12:52 PM   #5
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Marshall.

The body of the KT lock is a low grade pot metal.

I would not suggest you try to weld it, unless your prepared to buy a new lock.

There is no replacement for the KT lock, without doing major work to the door.

Then, if that lock fails, you will be looking at another $2200.00 for a new door and frame.

Some things are best left alone.

Andy
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Old 03-09-2005, 05:39 AM   #6
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I agree that pot metal cannot be welded.........I can weld most metals but not pot metal. Nothing there to weld to........kinda like welding paper or something.
The groove Andy refered to can be welded out because the striker is made of steel.
Most anybody with a Tig-Rig makes short work of that groove.

One more thing to Andy, a imbalance in the tires/wheels seems a plausable reason for that groove but.....I know of a Airstream that has sat in the same place for 10 years and it has a bad groove on the striker.
This trailer hasn't budged a foot so there may be more than a imbalance issue at work here. I suggest a heat-treat issue.
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Old 03-10-2005, 10:33 AM   #7
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KT Lock replacement

Great news.

We have figured out a way to replace the KT lock, with a far less expensive lock, (less than half), for the 1973 to 1977 models. The 70-72 models have cast door frames, that cannot use the new type lock, because of the additional thickness of the casting.

We will shortly have that lock as a kit and we will post it in our web site, along with photo's.

Andy
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Old 03-10-2005, 11:12 AM   #8
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This is excellent news... waiting for photos..... ours is on it's last legs and we have been gingerly opening the door.
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Old 03-10-2005, 12:42 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In
Great news.

We have figured out a way to replace the KT lock, with a far less expensive lock, (less than half), for the 1973 to 1977 models. The 70-72 models have cast door frames, that cannot use the new type lock, because of the additional thickness of the casting.

We will shortly have that lock as a kit and we will post it in our web site, along with photo's.

Andy
Would that also mean that 70-72 KT locks are not interchangable with 73-77 KT locks? My problem KT lock is on the 71. Could I repalce the 71 lock with the 73 lock and then use the new type lock on the 73?
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Old 03-10-2005, 02:03 PM   #10
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Marshall.

The same KT lock fits the 1970 to 1977 trailers. There is no difference from one year to another.

However, the kit we have come up with will not work with the cast door frame, since is much thicker.

Andy
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Old 03-14-2005, 03:56 PM   #11
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Loose Knob

The door knobs to my 54 Flying Cloud do not have locks, they just turn to open or close the door. The outside knob has come loose and pulls off. The inside one is fine. I'd like to keep the originals but it looks like a small pin is inserted to keep it on and I have no idea how to replace it or fix it. Any suggestions???
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Old 03-14-2005, 04:47 PM   #12
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Patricia.

The best thing to do, is to update the door with a lock that is currently available, and is still used by some RV manufacturers.

Andy
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Old 05-30-2005, 06:18 PM   #13
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I'll be anxiously awaiting this 'break through' as well. We have a '75 Excella 500 and the lock is shot. Everytime I lock or unlock it, I fully expect the entire lock mechanism to come out with the key.
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Old 07-01-2005, 10:16 PM   #14
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Anyone try it yet?

I'm really curious to know if anyone has tried the lock kit that InlandRV came out with. Pics would be great!

Mine is a 1975 Tradewind and I am looking for replacement parts or kits...

-T
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Old 07-04-2005, 10:09 AM   #15
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T Man

A photo of the kit is in our web site, inlandrv.com.

Andy
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Old 04-06-2007, 12:51 AM   #16
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Looks like it's been a couple of years since the last post, I was wondering if anyone has come up with a less expensive solution for the 1970 - 72 latche/lock issue? Mine is not actuating from the inside but fine from the outside....

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Old 04-06-2007, 04:17 AM   #17
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There was a recent post on another thread by Andy, I believe, that one other less expensive Bargman lock could be adapted for use. I believe this included atttaching a new mounting plate to the inside oand outisde of the door.
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Old 04-15-2007, 12:38 AM   #18
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I finally pulled my door lock/latch out of the door and it was immediately obvious that the little lever that is activated by the inside handle was bent. I delicate aligned and reposition into place. After I cleaned it I lubed it up with silicon spray and put it back in and it works fabulously. Thanks everyone for your earlier input.

I had not been able to find photos of the lock before so I took a few before putting it back in the door.


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Old 04-28-2007, 10:09 AM   #19
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I just purchased a '76 22 foot Argosy. The tumbler is missing because some kids broke into the trailer with a screwdriver. The previous owner said that the pin on the back of the tumbler broke off, but he doesn't know where the tumbler is. Other than the missing tumbler, the latch works fine. Are tumblers available? Does anyone know what my best option is? The entire Argosy is original and I'd like to keep it that way if possible.
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Old 12-23-2012, 05:47 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billyhip View Post
I just purchased a '76 22 foot Argosy. The tumbler is missing because some kids broke into the trailer with a screwdriver. The previous owner said that the pin on the back of the tumbler broke off, but he doesn't know where the tumbler is. Other than the missing tumbler, the latch works fine. Are tumblers available? Does anyone know what my best option is? The entire Argosy is original and I'd like to keep it that way if possible.
My way of doing this would be to find an original broken kt lock, pull the tumbler out (not very hard, theirs a plate on the tumbler that springs in and with pressure, allows you to slide the tumbler out) buy a key blank if you don't already have one, and get the key code and key made by a locksmith...this is assuming you don't have the key.

If you do have the key, just compress that plate, slide it in and make sure it fits with the metal grove that the interior door lock bolt uses. use a digital camera and take pictures so you know how it was when you pulled it out.

And for the love of god, do not use wd40, it works but attracts all sorts of messy crap later on down the road, use all purpose grease from a hardware store and lubricate all the roll pins, and actuation points. for the inside of the lock(The tumbler), use graphite to keep the tumbler pins in great working order or even to free em up.


P.S.
keeping things original is expensive..
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