Starlink Through UPS or Inverter

[adambhicks4]

My wife and I are setting out for an undetermined amount of time where she will be working from the road some. Her position is wholly reliant on video chat and she has to have a solid, reliable connection to fulfill her duties.

My questions is, would it make more sense to run our Starlink (or wifi hotspot and router) through a UPS, or would it be fine to always run the inverter and plug into that circuit (even when on shore or generator power) to make sure there are no power interruptions? The computer is fine with power interruptions since it has a battery, but if the power blips and the Starlink goes down, it is a few minutes for it to reboot... This would be a liability for her professionally.

I'm not sure if there is any downside to running the inverter constantly to ensure power? Looking forward to any thoughts you all may have.

Thanks!

[SuperTrouper]

Originally Posted by adambhicks4

My questions is, would it make more sense to run our Starlink (or wifi hotspot and router) through a UPS, or would it be fine to always run the inverter and plug into that circuit (even when on shore or generator power) to make sure there are no power interruptions?

In my opinion, running through the inverter should be fine as long as you don't switch power sources while she's working (connect shore power, generator etc) which might cause a brief glitch. A UPS in circuit would ensure that there are no interruptions but possibly overkill in this instance. Are you a belt and suspenders person? If so, get the UPS.

[Wazbro]

If your inverter has a pass-through for power it is basically a UPS just with a separate battery and charger. I'm not sure what year Airstream started installing the inverters with pass-through, might have been 2017.

[ModernVista]

If you have a Victron inverter/ charger (like the Multiplus) it has a UPS mode.

[hikingcamera]

On the downsides of running the inverter, you are going to need a lot of power. We have two 100Ah LiFePo batteries inna Flying Cloud 23 Corner Bed, and without the inverter running, we can go about 2 days with minimal power usage. I have accidentally left the inverter on once or twice overnight and seen our power usage get more than doubled. So either having a good way to charge your batteries when off grid or adding power would be a smart move.


If it hadn't been for cost, I would have added another 200–300Ah of power to my trailer. I may still someday. But we have Ford ProPower (a 2000W generator built into our truck) so in combination with a portable power station, we plan to use that to charge up our batteries each day to allow us to run essentially indefinitely. Plus a DC to DC charger, hopefully we will have no issues with power now.

[ModernVista]

Not all inverters are equal when on and “idle”. I have a Magnum and a Victron and the Victron is much much more efficient at idle. Like 6-10x. I think nothing about leaving the Victron in the AS on (although I’m careful to ensure fridge is on propane only mode!) etc

C

[foobar]

Originally Posted by adambhicks4

My wife and I are setting out for an undetermined amount of time where she will be working from the road some. Her position is wholly reliant on video chat and she has to have a solid, reliable connection to fulfill her duties.

My questions is, would it make more sense to run our Starlink (or wifi hotspot and router) through a UPS, or would it be fine to always run the inverter and plug into that circuit (even when on shore or generator power) to make sure there are no power interruptions? The computer is fine with power interruptions since it has a battery, but if the power blips and the Starlink goes down, it is a few minutes for it to reboot... This would be a liability for her professionally.

I'm not sure if there is any downside to running the inverter constantly to ensure power? Looking forward to any thoughts you all may have.

Thanks!

While a Victron has a UPS mode, it's not really the same as a true UPS as the switchover isn't always fast enough.

As for leaving the inverter running and powering starlink via an inverter all the time, this is perfectly fine. If you are on shore power, your converter will supply as much charge into the 12v battery system as you are removing via the inverter, so the overall system operates like a UPS.

You do need to be aware of the energy consumed by the inverter in order to run it's internal electronics if you are operating from batteries. This is about 25w or 2A from the batteries for a Victron Multiplus II, but can be 2x higher for older Victron's and much higher (5 - 10x for older/other brands). 8 hours for a multiplus II = 2A * 8 hours = 16 amp hours from your batteries just to run the Victron. This doesn't include the amp-hours needed to run the starlink dish (this is just for the dish, and doesn't include the starlink router power) = 48 watts/12v * 8 hours * 1.05 (for the inverter power conversion loss) = 34ah to run the dish alone for 8 hours. So you are looking at 34ah + 16ah = 50ah to run the dish + inverter for a full work day.

[jnm30327]

There are videos out that show how to connect the Starlink and a router (not the Starlink router) directly to a 12 V battery. You can avoid the inverter overhead. This is what I did.

eg.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vrGCL9pNDDc

[foobar]

Originally Posted by jnm30327

There are videos out that show how to connect the Starlink and a router (not the Starlink router) directly to a 12 V battery. You can avoid the inverter overhead. This is what I did.



eg.

Yup. I did the same.

But, I was trying to tackle the OP's original question directly and neglected to mention the option of bypassing the inverter and running starlink directly from the 12v battery bank via a 12v-48v DC-DC and using a 12v powered router instead of the 120v starlink router.

[trsvax]

I don't have data but I suspect the power in the Airstream is more reliable than my house.

I installed a second Victron 250 watt inverter to run electronics. It does not have much power overhead and I just leave it on all the time. It's effectively a UPS because it does not pass thru power as it's only connected to the battery. I do run various things on 12v but there always seems to be something that wants 120V like my monitor and Starlink.

I don't run my Starlink much as I've found cellular to be simpler, fast enough and more reliable. If I ran it full time I might convert it to 12v but at this point I'm not sure a bunch of DC-DC converters is much better than the small inverter and the AC-DC converters. The inverter is certainly simpler.

At least for me Starlink is a backup when all else fails. It's better than cell when there is no cell service. That does not mean I don't like it. Backups are important.

I suspect you'll find network reliability is a much bigger problem than power.

Oddly while typing this my Multiplus beeped and I lost grid power. Came back pretty quick but nothing in the Airstream had a problem.

[uncle_bob]

Hi

Yes, this is heading off into the weeds .....

As mentioned above, the "best" answer is to set up as much gear as you can to run straight off of 12V. You then have no issues with "dead power" going into an inverter or a UPS.

To me, the bigger concern is the phrase: "Her position is wholly reliant on video chat" in the original post. We have been a *lot* of places that doing that over cell was impossible. We have also been in spots that Starlink could not do the job either. Various issues come into play on cell and on Starink. It's not always "do I have a signal" .... Campground WiFi is getting better, but it still isn't likely to be much help in most campgrounds / most of the time.

Bob

[cazual6]

I'm in the same boat. I use my AS as a home office. I do run a small UPS just in case the inverter has a hiccup. UPS was less than $300, just enough if the inverter shuts off, and I can reset it (turn it off and then back on). Having a UPS on a critical piece of equipment is good standard practice anyways.

[jnm30327]

This is a new device but allows 12 V connection to the Starlink dish without having to cut any cables. Still have to buy a 12-48 V power supply. I wish this had been available when I did this as it drastically cuts the work needed. (You haven't lived until you have to make your own RJ45 connector! )

It was introduced on March 15 and is already unavailable. Something to keep an eye on.

See here.

[foobar]

Originally Posted by jnm30327

This is a new device but allows 12 V connection to the Starlink dish without having to cut any cables. Still have to buy a 12-48 V power supply. I wish this had been available when I did this as it drastically cuts the work needed. (You haven't lived until you have to make your own RJ45 connector! )



It was introduced on March 15 and is already unavailable. Something to keep an eye on.



See here.

Link doesn't work for me. Takes me to Amazon, but not to a specific product.

[jnm30327]

Not sure what problem is as it still works for me. The links also appear in the notes of the previously posted YouTube. Maybe try that.

[foobar]

Originally Posted by jnm30327

Not sure what problem is as it still works for me. The links also appear in the notes of the previously posted YouTube. Maybe try that.

Sometimes posted links don't work in the Airforums.com app. I bet that is the issue.

[uncle_bob]

Originally Posted by jnm30327

This is a new device but allows 12 V connection to the Starlink dish without having to cut any cables. Still have to buy a 12-48 V power supply. I wish this had been available when I did this as it drastically cuts the work needed. (You haven't lived until you have to make your own RJ45 connector! )

It was introduced on March 15 and is already unavailable. Something to keep an eye on.

See here.

Hi

Link works here. Amazon can be a bit weird with links.

Since the power is "POE", there are a *lot* of sources for the 12V to 48V side of things. Even dual supply (120V and 12V) devices aren't that tough to dig up. Yes, one *does* have to watch the power ratings on any POE setup.

Bob

Bob

[jnm30327]

Originally Posted by uncle_bob

Hi

Since the power is "POE", there are a *lot* of sources for the 12V to 48V side of things. Even dual supply (120V and 12V) devices aren't that tough to dig up. Yes, one *does* have to watch the power ratings on any POE setup.

Bob

Bob

I think you will have to use the Yaosheng POE injector which has the wires crossed for the Dishy. If you use other POE injectors, you will have to make your own RJ45 connector with the crossed pair. I will try an Amazon link again. Hope this works. Pricey at $75.

FWIW: I used the following items as in the YouTube which required crossing pairs on 2 RJ45 connectors. Prices are Amazon.

Tycon Systems POE-INJ-1000-WT High PoE 4 Pair Injector $16.75

uxcell New Big-Size Waterproof DC 12V Step-Up to DC 48V 8A 384W Car Power Supply Module Voltage Booster Converter Regulator $43.99

Tool to make RJ45 connectors:
RJ45 Crimp Tool Pass Through Crimper Cutter for Cat6a Cat6 Cat5 Cat5e 8P8C Modular Connector Ethernet All-in-one Wire Tool $23.99

[foobar]

Originally Posted by jnm30327

I think you will have to use the Yaosheng POE injector which has the wires crossed for the Dishy. If you use other POE injectors, you will have to make your own RJ45 connector with the crossed pair. I will try an Amazon link again. Hope this works. Pricey at $75.

FWIW: I used the following items as in the YouTube which required crossing pairs on 2 RJ45 connectors. Prices are Amazon.

Tycon Systems POE-INJ-1000-WT High PoE 4 Pair Injector $16.75

uxcell New Big-Size Waterproof DC 12V Step-Up to DC 48V 8A 384W Car Power Supply Module Voltage Booster Converter Regulator $43.99

Tool to make RJ45 connectors:
RJ45 Crimp Tool Pass Through Crimper Cutter for Cat6a Cat6 Cat5 Cat5e 8P8C Modular Connector Ethernet All-in-one Wire Tool $23.99

I did something similar.

The POE injector I used is 800-GigE-POE from https://www.ispsupplies.com/McCown-T...n-800-GIGE-POE

It's available from other sources as well.

This POE injector provides lightning arresting functionality, POE injection, and also unswizzles the Starlink cable wiring via jumper settings so that the wiring is compatible with standard T568-B ethernet cabling on the trailer side of the POE injector.

I also use the uxcell 12v to 48v DC-DC Voltage booster, 384W for the 12v to 48v DC-DC as it is cheap, efficient, and reliable. However, it is also overkill as the dish only uses about 40-48Watts in normal operation and as much as 98W if you enable the built-in heating function in the dish for snow/ice melting purposes.

[adambhicks4]

Thanks, all. I think for now I will plan to run the Starlink off the inverter circuit. I will look at the suggestions made above if the inverter does not prove sufficient.