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Old 11-17-2015, 10:28 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by KJRitchie View Post
Looking at the Weboost website the auto/RV solutions with the small flat internal antenna don't seem to be the best solutions as it only has a 3' range. The instructions from the Drive 4G-X states 36" range.

Is there a replacement indoor antenna that offers more range? If I have to sit in one area of the trailer within 3 foot of the indoor antenna that doesn't seem to be that useful.

Kelvin


A call to the folks at 3Gstore will get you a quick answer. They are also a great source for all cell and wifi related devices.

BTW, I have seen significant signal boost at up to 6' from the inside antenna.


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Old 11-17-2015, 10:36 AM   #22
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I do not recommend the Wilson Sleek, now WeBoost. I posted about it here: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f451...-x-142742.html

I burned up, and ruined a MiFi, and a post on Instagram revealed me to not be the only full timer to have a problem with the unit. I didn't have a problem with it, until it was consistently always on.

They make units for home and RV that are even more money with internal antennas that cover more area. If it's worth $500 is up to you.
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Old 11-17-2015, 10:42 AM   #23
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If the antenna is on the TV antenna, which is cranked up over the TV/fridge common wall (25fb) and the internal antenna is attached to the TV/fridge common wall will I get the enhanced reception in the front bedroom if the internal antenna is pointed towards the back of the trailer?

Thanks

Kelvin
Don't know! I have my external antenna at the front of the AC unto and the internal antenna at front above the dinette, which where we need signal for the wifi router and making calls. We don't need signal in the bedroom, although I guess our wifi does provide it for data!
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Old 11-17-2015, 11:52 AM   #24
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Do you owners of the cell boosters register these with your wireless carrier. I've been reading it is an FCC requirement.

The antenna separation seems to be a big top online with these devices. Does the Airstream's metal structure reduce the distance needed between internal and external antennas?

Kelvin
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Old 11-17-2015, 12:19 PM   #25
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KJRitchie

Hope you have not ripped your AS apart running transmission cables all thru it just yet. Before you do so, please check the labeling on the existing AM/FM cable run. If it is imprinted with RG-6 or RG-6U it has been verified to work with all radio frequencies from 0 to 3000 megahertz! (its called sweeping the cable)

In the United States all cell services are limited to five bands of frequencies. With the latest LTE branded stuff this has extended bands to 7. They now range from 608 Mhz. to 2,600 Mhz. RG-6 is certified to operate thru the entire cell service bandwidth.

Think of a band as a freeway. On the freeway it does not make a tinkers damn if you are driving a van, pickup, RV or even an Airstream, it can all go down the road! Same is true for the freeway of radio. It makes no difference if the vehicle is PCS, 1G, 3G, 4G, LTE, EDGE, TDMA, CDMA, ABCDEFG; it is just a different kind of vehicle with different protocols of operation.

With RG-6U, because you normally are not transmitting energy in excess of about 3 watts, there is no issue using it as transmission cable for cell service. Usually, that does not exceed 2.5 watts max. Most are limited to about .02 watts or less. Wilson and the other "boosters" vary the transmission wattage level as a function of how far you are away from the tower.

Also, because you are using transmission line (RG-6U) cable in very short runs, (less than 15 feet), line loss (attenuation) is not a factor. Most transmission cable is 50 ohm or 75 ohm. (resistance per 1000 feet for cable at the frequency of operation) Cable television uses 75 ohm. Wilson has started to use 75 ohm for the line between the antenna outside and the transceiver (booster) inside.

The next issue is connectors on the ends of the cable. There is an alphabet soup of titles for all the connectors. Wilson uses standard "F" type crimp fittings on their RG-6 cable. However they usually provide something called and SMA fitting to adapt into their transceiver (booster) box. (the one with the binky lights) From the transceiver you go to a number of various types of antennas that reside inside your AS, or even outside your AS if you want to become a mini-cell tower.

So, before you tear your vehicle apart running cables see if you can determine the type of cable you have. If it is RG-6 AND there is no other device between the Wilson or similar transceiver the big part of the job is done.

The antenna on the top of the AS must be unscrewed and removed and replaced with a wideband antenna that has been "cut" or tuned to the frequencies of interests. Wilson and others have a number of direct replacement antennas that are loaded (tuned) for many of the bands. (Sprint, AT&T and Verizon even Roberts and US-Cell) The antenna "mount" (the part that is firmly attached to the skin of the AS) stays just where it is. The element (the wire that extends up from the mount) can normally be unscrewed and replaced with the correct element from your cell service. Note: FM is 87 Mhz. to 107.5 Mhz. for the most part. Remember Cell starts at the low 600's, and if you try to use the FM antenna element for the Cell it will look like a dead short to the booster and it simply will not turn on.

Finally, be very sure that the AM/FM antenna wire to the termination point where the old radio lived DO NOT have any other device, splitter or booster in the line or all of this is for nothing. This can be easy to test by using a volt ohm meter or a simple test light.

Unscrew the antenna from the base mount on the top of the trailer. Using a long piece of wire connect it to the stub in the middle of the base and drape it into the trailer where the inside connection to the radio lived. Test the continuity between the center conductor of the inside cable and the center of the roof mount. If there is continuity, (a connection) then there is nothing else in that line. If there is NO continuity then there is something in that line run.

Don't use the outside of the fitting as that will have continuity regardless of what other devices may be between the roof mount and the termination in the equipment cabinet.

If there is NO continuity from center post of antenna and the center wire at the inside fitting, get out your drill and start punching holes. (Hope not).

Hope this diatribe helps.

Best Regards and Happy Trails.
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Old 11-17-2015, 01:48 PM   #26
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The antenna on the top of the AS must be unscrewed and removed and replaced with a wideband antenna that has been "cut" or tuned to the frequencies of interests. Wilson and others have a number of direct replacement antennas that are loaded (tuned) for many of the bands. (Sprint, AT&T and Verizon even Roberts and US-Cell) The antenna "mount" (the part that is firmly attached to the skin of the AS) stays just where it is. The element (the wire that extends up from the mount) can normally be unscrewed and replaced with the correct element from your cell service. Note: FM is 87 Mhz. to 107.5 Mhz. for the most part. Remember Cell starts at the low 600's, and if you try to use the FM antenna element for the Cell it will look like a dead short to the booster and it simply will not turn on.

Finally, be very sure that the AM/FM antenna wire to the termination point where the old radio lived DO NOT have any other device, splitter or booster in the line or all of this is for nothing. This can be easy to test by using a volt ohm meter or a simple test light.


Hope this diatribe helps.

Best Regards and Happy Trails.
I doubt the cable from the AM/FM antenna is split since it has the push in male connecter that plugged into the radio's antenna socket. I'll have to check if I can see if its mark RG-6 or RG-6U.

So if I understand what you are saying, the flexible antenna Airstream uses for the AM/FM radio can be unscrewed from the base that is permanently attached to the roof and then you can screw in the appropriate antenna for cell signal boosting? Is it a similar flexible antenna?

What do you mean by "element"? is this a part that screws inline between the cable and the antenna?

Can you post links to these products? I can't seem to find these items on WeBoost and SureCall sites.

Thanks

Kelvin
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Old 11-17-2015, 01:51 PM   #27
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Even if the wire is RG-6/u you'll need to cut and crimp on new connectors. Not sure you want to go buy cable crimpers just for that. It won't be plug in play. But in theory could work. I'd be surprised if that wire is RG-6 though.

RG-62/U is usually used for automotive radio applications.
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Old 11-17-2015, 08:05 PM   #28
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KJRitchie,

If you decide to use a dedicated cellular antenna, take a look at this thread. I routed the antenna line down the fridge vent and did not have to take out the fridge. Use a spare piece of 20A cable or similar and keep to the right, fish it up, tape your antenna cable to the end and pull back down. I tried to route the cable directly behind the fridge with no luck but keeping to the right was fairly straight forward (or maybe I was just lucky ).
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Old 11-17-2015, 09:21 PM   #29
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I use the discontinued Wilson DT4G designed for a small house or a couple rooms. The newer version apparently automatically adjusts the amplification, whereas mine has manual adjustments. My external antenna is mounted when needed via conduit attached with compression fittings to an existing short run of conduit attached to my tongue jack. My coax runs in above my spare tire and behind interior seating, fridge, and wardrobe into the rear bedroom, where the coax attaches to the amplifier and internal antenna. The amplifier is turned all the way up with no interference whatsoever. Consequently, my cell service inside my trailer is outstanding at any location; that is, I don't need to be near the internal antenna. Works great.
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Old 11-18-2015, 08:17 AM   #30
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Greetings,
The Weboost complete kits have all the fittings as I recall, but Amazon links to several suppliers of cable and fittings, many of which are a twist on that does not require a crimp tool. The "element" is the antenna. Sorry for the confusion.


However, the RG-62 is the deal breaker.

Routing new cable via the fridge access would be the most attractive method and allow you to snake cable out of sight.

Not that you would be interested in our install but we placed the Wilson (Weboost) gear in the TV. The inside element (antenna) is located in the rear window pointed toward the AS.
(301211 inside desktop antenna) made a mounting bracket of it.

There is a bit over 3 1/2 feet seperation between outside antenna and inside antenna seperated by the metal roof thus cross talk is not and issue.

Because in our part of the world cell service has issues, the booster goes with the TV. When hooked up to AS there is very good saturation into and around the site and inside the trailer. Inside TV it is practically a direct connect to the booster.

The TV is a F-250 SD FX-4 diesel crew cab which has 2 batteries and powers the booster for about a week with out recharging.

I am not very keen on punching hold in the AS skin.

Regards
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Old 11-18-2015, 08:50 AM   #31
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KJRitchie,

If you decide to use a dedicated cellular antenna, take a look at this thread. I routed the antenna line down the fridge vent and did not have to take out the fridge. Use a spare piece of 20A cable or similar and keep to the right, fish it up, tape your antenna cable to the end and pull back down. I tried to route the cable directly behind the fridge with no luck but keeping to the right was fairly straight forward (or maybe I was just lucky ).
I've asked some questions about your set up in the tread mentioned above.

Kelvin
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Old 11-18-2015, 09:01 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by Jekerrville View Post
Greetings,
The Weboost complete kits have all the fittings as I recall, but Amazon links to several suppliers of cable and fittings, many of which are a twist on that does not require a crimp tool. The "element" is the antenna. Sorry for the confusion.


However, the RG-62 is the deal breaker.

Routing new cable via the fridge access would be the most attractive method and allow you to snake cable out of sight.

Not that you would be interested in our install but we placed the Wilson (Weboost) gear in the TV. The inside element (antenna) is located in the rear window pointed toward the AS.
(301211 inside desktop antenna) made a mounting bracket of it.

There is a bit over 3 1/2 feet seperation between outside antenna and inside antenna seperated by the metal roof thus cross talk is not and issue.

Because in our part of the world cell service has issues, the booster goes with the TV. When hooked up to AS there is very good saturation into and around the site and inside the trailer. Inside TV it is practically a direct connect to the booster.

The TV is a F-250 SD FX-4 diesel crew cab which has 2 batteries and powers the booster for about a week with out recharging.

I am not very keen on punching hold in the AS skin.

Regards
It sounds like the internal desktop antenna has better range than the flat antenna from the mobile kits. If that desktop antenna was mounted in the rear of the trailer and pointed towards the bedroom would that provide a cell signal in the bedroom? Would it also provide a better signal if sitting outside under the awning? That is what I'd like to have. Putting it inside a wooden cabinet with the door closed would that degrade the signal?

Kelvin
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