Dare I mount Starlink dish on truck bed cover?

[nelsonh]

Now that Starlink has added in-motion use to the Gen3 dish data plans, I’m kindof eager to take advantage of this added feature. My question is about the “best” way to mount the dish to my rig.

The F150 has an aluminum cab so magnetic roof mounts are a no-go, and I’m not keen on putting it on the roof of the AS due to complexity (potentially high) and convenience (low). So I’m thinking about on the truck bed tonneau cover, and curious about any experience or insights y’all might have on such a scheme.

My truck bed cover is a BakFlip MX4 folding 3-panel rigid aluminum model. The panels themselves are quite solid and sturdy; their website says they consist of 2 aluminum skins with a high density foam core with a total thickness of 1/2”. The panels are about 18” wide each, which would be sufficient real estate to mount the dish (which is about 15x23”) centered on a single panel. My first inclination would be to mount it on the panel as close to centered between the rear glass of the truck cab and the front of the trailer, to split the difference on possible “obstruction” interference.

So to you all I ask, does this seem like an idea worth pursuing? Anyone here have experience with mounting a dish in this manner, and if yes with what level of success?

I don’t have any compunction about drilling holes in the bed cover, but I will need to find a solid and reliable mechanism to actually secure the dish. So far I’m looking at a mounting kit along the lines of the Star Mount Explorer (https://star-mountsystems.com/collec...gen-3-starlink) I have an email into them describing my idea to determine if this mount will in fact hold the dish completely securely at highway speeds. I have a couple ideas on routing the ethernet cable into the cab of the truck, the simplest of which would be coming in through the sliding window on the cab’s rear glass. The truck has a couple of interior 110v outlets so powering the router won’t be an issue.

I’d be eager to hear any feedback from those who are more informed and experienced than myself on a project like this, so I might suss out any significant obstacles or oversights before going further down this rabbit hole. Much obliged for any and all feedback!

[uncle_bob]

Hi

When "not in use" the cover folds up. The panels stack dead flat against each other when that happens. The "stuff" that holds them in place really only works well if they stack like that. Don't ask how I know this ....

Whatever you do for a mount to the panels either needs to come off or be "zero height". Neither one of those sound very simple. It also needs to be pretty strong. The wind blasting on the antenna is going to put some non-trivial force on it ( = the blast from that semi that just passed you going the other way ...)

One "simple" (ok not so simple) way to go is the approach folks use for putting bike racks back there. You have a "frame" above the cover and the antenna mounts to that. When you want to open things up all the way, that frame comes off.

Another alternative is to drill a couple holes in the cab roof of the truck and flat mount it up there. It's not all that hard to do. For fewer holes you could use the same 3M tape they use for putting solar panels on the roof of an AS.

Cable wise, with holes, the cables just run between the roof and the head liner. With tape, you run them down the middle of the back window and into the cab lower down.

The advantage of "on top of the cab" is that it's as high as you are going to get mounting it on the truck.

Fun!

Bob

[JeffKim]

I was sort of wondering about this too, however could it be mounted somewhere on the trailer (not permanently on the roof). I don't have a V3 yet (waffling), but I was sort of wondering if it could still get reception mounted inside the propane tank box (maybe not enough room)? Or on top of the battery box?

Edit: Never mind, for anyone who had this idea, I got out the tape measure, V3 is 15'x23" and the propane tank box is anywhere near big enough or the battery box area. I don't know about the Mini.

[JeffKim]

Then again, I suppose it would fit on top of the propane tank with the right mount. I'm just wondering if it would get a decent signal?

[nelsonh]

Originally Posted by JeffKim

Then again, I suppose it would fit on top of the propane tank with the right mount. I'm just wondering if it would get a decent signal?

We were out at a campsite last weekend and on a lark I had set the Gen3 dish on top of the LP tanks cover over night, just to get it up closer to the trailer until the next day. I found that it ended up working just fine sitting there so I left it there for the rest of our stay. So that could be viable, my only concern would be the relative flimsiness of the LP cover, it’s not exactly a firm and solid platform and even more so at speed.

[Tim A.]

Preferring to have our Star Link antenna as high as possible, I modified a Winegard Sensar TV antenna to hold a Gen III Star Link antenna. My modification elevates the Star Link antenna to the recommended 20° angle using the Sensar control inside the trailer. That control also rotates the Star Link antenna for alignment. Cranking the Sensar control down lowers the Star Link antenna to be flat on the roof and it has a wind guard in that position to protect it from the wind from driving.

Not a simple solution to carry out, but it works very well. Of course, the TV antenna is gone. The elevation of the Star Link antenna is lower than the original height of the TV antenna.

Tim

[Tim A.]

Some pictures might help.

Tim

[uncle_bob]

Hi

For typical use running around in an RV, the Mini is a pretty good choice....

There is a thread that goes into lots of details about mounting Starlinks (of any sort) on the front jack. (it's a lot stronger than the propane tank cover.

As far as "got to get it high", there also is a lot of testing noted in various threads. Cell antennas need the "get it high". Starlink .... not so much.

Bob

[Tim A.]

I wanted to have the antenna as high as possible simply to have its view of the sky as wide as possible with surrounding "decorative" trees. A Star Link antenna can easily be on the ground if nothing obstructs the path to satellites.

Our 19' has little space for storing the antenna, so a permanent mount on the roof is an advantage for us.

Tim

[27ftToaster]

I mounted my Gen 3 on the cab of my RAM with a magnetic mount and ran the cable inside my Fiberglas topper. The router is mounted to the front of the truck bed, facing our 27’ FC. The WiFi is strong inside the trailer, plus we have WiFi anywhere on the road when unhitched and exploring. You might give Star-Mount Systems a call. They have many mounting solutions, such as a quick release that perhaps could be VHB taped down, if you understandably don’t want to drill holes. Alternatively, you could test the bed with the tonneau cover on and the antenna flat underneath. Others have tested and shown that the antenna seems to work just as well through fiberglass as above it. The BakFlip may be aluminum, so results will vary. The disadvantage of bed mounting is that your cab will be in the way one direction and your Airstream in the way the other direction.

[GammaDog]

I bought Starlink with a Gen 3 antenna in February. Mounted it to my Extang trifold tonneau using a Trio flatmount bracket. I power it with a Jackery 2000+ under the tonneau which can also power the AS in a pinch. I have a 200 watt solar panel on the tonneau to top off the Jackery. It also can be plugged in to 120v or charged from the truck’s 12v system. A single Honda 2000 which is LP fueled rides next to the Jackery. A 200watt solar suitcase can also be plugged in, but isn’t tonneau mounted.

I’ve been running Starlink in motion since February. I didn’t know it wasn’t supported until I got the notice last week that I was upgraded.

Originally Posted by nelsonh

Now that Starlink has added in-motion use to the Gen3 dish data plans, I’m kindof eager to take advantage of this added feature. My question is about the “best” way to mount the dish to my rig.

The F150 has an aluminum cab so magnetic roof mounts are a no-go, and I’m not keen on putting it on the roof of the AS due to complexity (potentially high) and convenience (low). So I’m thinking about on the truck bed tonneau cover, and curious about any experience or insights y’all might have on such a scheme.

My truck bed cover is a BakFlip MX4 folding 3-panel rigid aluminum model. The panels themselves are quite solid and sturdy; their website says they consist of 2 aluminum skins with a high density foam core with a total thickness of 1/2”. The panels are about 18” wide each, which would be sufficient real estate to mount the dish (which is about 15x23”) centered on a single panel. My first inclination would be to mount it on the panel as close to centered between the rear glass of the truck cab and the front of the trailer, to split the difference on possible “obstruction” interference.

So to you all I ask, does this seem like an idea worth pursuing? Anyone here have experience with mounting a dish in this manner, and if yes with what level of success?

I don’t have any compunction about drilling holes in the bed cover, but I will need to find a solid and reliable mechanism to actually secure the dish. So far I’m looking at a mounting kit along the lines of the Star Mount Explorer (https://star-mountsystems.com/collec...gen-3-starlink) I have an email into them describing my idea to determine if this mount will in fact hold the dish completely securely at highway speeds. I have a couple ideas on routing the ethernet cable into the cab of the truck, the simplest of which would be coming in through the sliding window on the cab’s rear glass. The truck has a couple of interior 110v outlets so powering the router won’t be an issue.

I’d be eager to hear any feedback from those who are more informed and experienced than myself on a project like this, so I might suss out any significant obstacles or oversights before going further down this rabbit hole. Much obliged for any and all feedback!

[MRA]

My TV has a very large sunroof. I put my Gen3 under the glass but on top of the slider thing that blocks the sun. Works great.

[uncle_bob]

Originally Posted by Tim A.

I wanted to have the antenna as high as possible simply to have its view of the sky as wide as possible with surrounding "decorative" trees. A Star Link antenna can easily be on the ground if nothing obstructs the path to satellites.

Our 19' has little space for storing the antenna, so a permanent mount on the roof is an advantage for us.

Tim

Hi

The gotcha is that unless you are right next to the tree *and* can get over it with your mounting "pole", height is not as big a deal with Starlink. So yes low bushes / picnic tables could matter if you are right by them. A tripod does a fine job in this case.

That tree "way over there" obstructs 32 degrees of the sky from the ground and 26 degrees with a roof mount. That's not a big enough change to really impact things.

Bob

[nelsonh]

Originally Posted by MRA

My TV has a very large sunroof. I put my Gen3 under the glass but on top of the slider thing that blocks the sun. Works great.

I’ve seen this scheme in photos here and elsewhere and it looks like an easy and clever setup….but alas, no sunroof here.

[nelsonh]

Originally Posted by uncle_bob

Hi

When "not in use" the cover folds up. The panels stack dead flat against each other when that happens. The "stuff" that holds them in place really only works well if they stack like that. Don't ask how I know this ....

Whatever you do for a mount to the panels either needs to come off or be "zero height". Neither one of those sound very simple. It also needs to be pretty strong. The wind blasting on the antenna is going to put some non-trivial force on it ( = the blast from that semi that just passed you going the other way ...)

One "simple" (ok not so simple) way to go is the approach folks use for putting bike racks back there. You have a "frame" above the cover and the antenna mounts to that. When you want to open things up all the way, that frame comes off.

Another alternative is to drill a couple holes in the cab roof of the truck and flat mount it up there. It's not all that hard to do. For fewer holes you could use the same 3M tape they use for putting solar panels on the roof of an AS.

Cable wise, with holes, the cables just run between the roof and the head liner. With tape, you run them down the middle of the back window and into the cab lower down.

The advantage of "on top of the cab" is that it's as high as you are going to get mounting it on the truck.

Fun!

Bob

I'd say that great minds think alike, but my mind isn't all that great....

Like you say, I definitely don't want whatever mounting plan I come up with to interfere with the folding of the panels, as there us usually a lot of in & out and opening & closing of the truck bed whilst camping, and I don't need some cobbled up dish holder getting in the way of that. So my plan ( at this point..) would be to make it a removable mounting "bracket" in some manner.

I've seen some of the solutions that use some sorts of bike rack or bars-across-the-bed setups; that's more extra parts than I want to deploy and then have to wrestle/store/deal with. And honestly the idea of drilling any holes in the roof of the cab isn't super appealing either, mostly because I think having to address those holes when the day comes to sell or trade the truck.

So currently I'm envisioning drilling 4 carefully placed small holes to accommodate bolts to secure the dish "holder" to the bed cover, using rubber washers between the dish holder and the bed cover, and star knobs on the underside for tool-free installation & removal of the whole thing. This way I could (fairly) quickly remove it from the bed cover when needed without leaving any hardware behind, just the bolt holes, which I'm pretty sure I can come up with a way to adequately seal up with some sort of low-profile rubber plugs to keep water out.

It would be sweet if I could then just plug in the router in the truck bed (truck has 110v outlet in bed) and push it way up front to the cab and have it work without running the ethernet wire through the rear cab window.... but I don't have high hopes for that working from inside the bed. BUT I'm planning on testing this possible solution in the driveway at home before I abandon the idea - maybe I'll be wrong and a useful signal will make its way into the cab. It'll be an easy thing to test at least.

This whole thought exercise definitely has me seeing the appeal of the Mini dish.... which I presume could be simply placed on the dash of the truck facing out the windshield and happily doing its job from there.

Fun?

Kinda!

[nelsonh]

Originally Posted by GammaDog

I bought Starlink with a Gen 3 antenna in February. Mounted it to my Extang trifold tonneau using a Trio flatmount bracket. I power it with a Jackery 2000+ under the tonneau which can also power the AS in a pinch. I have a 200 watt solar panel on the tonneau to top off the Jackery. It also can be plugged in to 120v or charged from the truck’s 12v system. A single Honda 2000 which is LP fueled rides next to the Jackery. A 200watt solar suitcase can also be plugged in, but isn’t tonneau mounted.

I’ve been running Starlink in motion since February. I didn’t know it wasn’t supported until I got the notice last week that I was upgraded.

Huzzah!

I've been wondering (but have not yet tested) -- when having the router in the truck bed with the metal cover closed, do you get a strong and reliable wifi signal inside the cab of the truck?? Or have you ran your ethernet router wire into the cab??

I'd prefer the former setup for simplicity - save me from managing the ethernet cable from the dish through the cab rear window. My truck has 110v power in the truck bed, so it would be super clean to just be able to plug it in there and go. Gonna test the signal strength of this setup in the next day or two at home.

[nelsonh]

Originally Posted by 27ftToaster

I mounted my Gen 3 on the cab of my RAM with a magnetic mount and ran the cable inside my Fiberglas topper. The router is mounted to the front of the truck bed, facing our 27’ FC. The WiFi is strong inside the trailer, plus we have WiFi anywhere on the road when unhitched and exploring. You might give Star-Mount Systems a call. They have many mounting solutions, such as a quick release that perhaps could be VHB taped down, if you understandably don’t want to drill holes. Alternatively, you could test the bed with the tonneau cover on and the antenna flat underneath. Others have tested and shown that the antenna seems to work just as well through fiberglass as above it. The BakFlip may be aluminum, so results will vary. The disadvantage of bed mounting is that your cab will be in the way one direction and your Airstream in the way the other direction.

Yes my folding bed cover is aluminum which presents more signal interference than fiberglass. My plan/goal right now is to figure out a dish-mounting solution on the truck bed cover primarily for use during travel, with a quick and easy way to dis-mount the dish and then deploy it at the campsite as needed, in situations where leaving it on the truck bed wouldn't be ideal placement, ie tree obstructions. My trailer has external ethernet port, so can then easily move the router inside the trailer where I have put some additional ethernet wiring in place so that I can quickly get it connected and set up inside the rig.

[GammaDog]

Originally Posted by nelsonh

Yes my folding bed cover is aluminum which presents more signal interference than fiberglass. My plan/goal right now is to figure out a dish-mounting solution on the truck bed cover primarily for use during travel, with a quick and easy way to dis-mount the dish and then deploy it at the campsite as needed, in situations where leaving it on the truck bed wouldn't be ideal placement, ie tree obstructions. My trailer has external ethernet port, so can then easily move the router inside the trailer where I have put some additional ethernet wiring in place so that I can quickly get it connected and set up inside the rig.

Yes. I get great signal strength in the truck cab with the Starlink router in the bed under the tonneau. FWIW, mine’s a 2020 Tundra and an Extang trifold. But wait… there’s more! I get signal throughout the AS (25 FB) too. As a backup plan, I do know that Starlink has mesh network style range extenders for about $150.

As for the other issues in recent posts, I used flanged t-nuts on the underside of the tonneau rather than star nuts. Allen headed SS bolts through from above. I used butyl tape for water proofing since it’s in my go kit. I can only open the aft panel of the tonneau when Starlink and solar are installed, but I added a restraining strap so the panel goes past vertical but won’t interfere with the antenna which is mounted on the center panel to give it the best clearance angle to avoid the truck cab or AS from obstructing signal. The constellation is sufficiently dense at this point that I don’t seem to have issues with obstruction. Finally, if you power Starlink from a bed outlet you might consider a solar generator to act as a UPS between the truck and Starlink. No solar panels needed, just plug it into the truck and Starlink into it. That would enable you to run Starlink w/o the truck running (e.g. while camping). Starlink draws up to 150 watts but only while starting or when obscured. I routinely see 50 watts steady draw when well connected in a clear spot. I use a 2000 watt hour Jackery, but a 1000 or even 500 if you don’t need much connection time per day would be possible.

[uncle_bob]

Hi

Go with a Mini mounted on the cover. The router goes away. Everything is right there "out in the open" ( = router is part of the Mini ). You have one DC power cable to get to it. That can run from the 120V adapter or from some pretty simple DC/DC stuff off 12V.

Bob

[goldenchase]

Originally Posted by uncle_bob

Hi

Go with a Mini mounted on the cover. The router goes away. Everything is right there "out in the open" ( = router is part of the Mini ). You have one DC power cable to get to it. That can run from the 120V adapter or from some pretty simple DC/DC stuff off 12V.

Bob

Agree. There is only one reason to use a Gen 3 in this use case: you currently save $300. Gen Starlink 3 (aka Standard) uses 3X the power over the Mini to get about the same performance.

Also any bed mounted solution requires careful placement to prevent obstruction. The Gen 3 field of view is 110 degrees, so the dish has to be carefully placed on the bed to avoid obstructing the sky by the cab and/or the trailer in tow.