Why 2 coax connections at the inlet?

[Chuck]

I've noticed that late model trailers have 2 coax connections, instead of just one.
Why?

I understand that the individual cables route to a wall plate, and can be jumpered if you want to watch cable, and I guess the "un-jumpered" method allows you to connect a satelite receiver to the outlet....but it doesn't make sense to me that these things need to have 2 separate lines.

Can someone explain it?

[Aage]

Originally Posted by Chuck

I've noticed that late model trailers have 2 coax connections, instead of just one.
Why?

I understand that the individual cables route to a wall plate, and can be jumpered if you want to watch cable, and I guess the "un-jumpered" method allows you to connect a satellite receiver to the outlet....but it doesn't make sense to me that these things need to have 2 separate lines.

Can someone explain it?

I'm on Bell Satellite here in Ottawa, Canada, and when I went from SD (Standard Definition) satellite to HD (High Def) satellite, they changed the horn on my satellite dish to one that had two receivers.

Why? One for the hi-def channels. I still have the SD coax, but i now also have HD coax wires coming into the house where it fit onto the Bell set-top receiver that tunes the channels and so on.

Hope this helps, Chuck!

[Chuck]

yeah, but I don't think these 2 wires that they install in new trailers are different from each other. What you're describing sounds like your house was originally wired with rg59, which was fine for analog signals, but not for newer digital signals sent by digital cable or satellite systems; these require rg6 cable...which looks exactly the same, but isn't. This new(er) standard also works fine for analog signals (like sd cable or antenna signals). So now, nobody installs rg59 for anything. Install rg6, use it for either/both.

[Rich Jenkins]

Sure:

The coax labeled 'Sat' ends in the electronics cabinet. It is left unattached from the factory. The cable is intended to be connected to a future Satellite receiver.

The coax labeled 'Cable' runs to a distribution box split to each of the TVs 'ant' input jack. It is intended to be connected to a campground Cable TV system.

[Chuck]

thanks, but it doesn't explain why you need 2.

If you're using satellite, why not just connect to the same inlet, and on the inside, connect your sat. receiver to the jack on the other end?

Is there some need to have both a cable and satellite connection in use simultaneously?

[Rich Jenkins]

My guess is it is cheaper to run two lengths of coax vs adding another splitter, not to say amending the User Manual to document how to use it.

And adding a label on the switch.

And the cost of a run of labels.

And the manufacturing cost of updating the build documentation.


As well as to not generate yet another raft of AirForum posts as to 'why does my cable TV not work' from folks with their Sat/Cable splitter switch set incorrectly.

[TG Twinkie]

Satellite components don't like splitters and other devices.
My portable satellite dish gets its power thru the coax. It won't work if there is a splitter or switch in the circuit.

[overlander63]

Cable coax runs to the antenna booster plate.
Satellite coax runs to the cabinet housing the Blue Ray player for a receiver. The receiver can then connect to the HDMI cable behind the Blue Ray, so it can send signal to both televisions.

[Chuck]

hmm...starting to make sense. So--a satellite receiver wouldn't work if connected to the "old" winegard tv amplifier plate, that links an external cable and passes it through to the jack, unless you turn off the amplifier, which then cuts off the cable connection and switches the link to the antenna?

In my particular trailer, if one were to use a satellite, the receiver box would have to be in the same place as the tv, and there'd only be one tv. not that I have any plans on adding a satellite receiver, but I currently have the walls open, so any wiring should be added now. (in my probably futile attempt to future-proof things).
maybe I should run 2 separate wires to 2 separate jacks, even if they're side-by-side.

[HiJoeSilver]

"So--a satellite receiver wouldn't work if connected to the "old" winegard tv amplifier plate, that links an external cable and passes it through to the jack, unless you turn off the amplifier, which then cuts off the cable connection and switches the link to the antenna? "

Nail on the head!

[Rich Jenkins]

Originally Posted by Chuck

maybe I should run 2 separate wires to 2 separate jacks, even if they're side-by-side.

That would be an excellent idea.

[zapper]

Originally Posted by Chuck

thanks, but it doesn't explain why you need 2.

If you're using satellite, why not just connect to the same inlet, and on the inside, connect your sat. receiver to the jack on the other end?

Is there some need to have both a cable and satellite connection in use simultaneously?

I have a G2 satellite connected to "cable" connected to my satellite receiver. The other, I was told by the dealer, was for local cable at the RV park, although I have never used it. The reason for 2? I suppose it eliminates the need to disconnect the cable from the receiver to see local cable. Otherwise you would need an A/B cable switch to select the source. Power off the antenna before using local cable source.

[Tomhenritze]

The basic premise is you don't need a cable box to run campground cable, it just feeds to the TV like air broadcast. You need a box to run cable, so the lead ends up in the A/V cabinet. You then connect the receiver to an hdmi switch to tap into the TV(s). I rebuilt my 2017 A/V to put in a 4x2 hdmi switch in the overhead locker so I could run multiple inputs to each TV. Would be a good idea if you were rewiring and older trailer.

[Chuck]

Originally Posted by Tomhenritze

The basic premise is you don't need a cable box to run campground cable, it just feeds to the TV like air broadcast. ....

That isn't a "given" any more, either. My local cable company doesn't put anything on the bare wire anymore. nada/nilch zip. all tv's must have some sort of box.

Anyway, that kind of brings up another subject, and that is the hdmi cables mentioned.
There is some "cabinet" space in the front endcap that I suppose could be used to house a box; it is also where a car stereo head unit would be mounted. I was wondering about outputing sound from the tv to the stereo to get the audio through the speakers...what kind of cabling would be required? Things have kind of moved away from standardization, it seems, regarding the number and type of inputs/outputs....I would think that these smaller flatscreens would be limited, too. So I guess the question is how many and what type(s) to run from the front to the tv mount?

[Rich Jenkins]

Just a suggestion, but if you have the ability to run cables, you might want to consider an optical TosLink cable, e.g.:

https://www.amazon.com/BlueRigger-Di...al+cable+25%27

It's pretty common these days for TV out to no longer have analog outputs. Our new 32" Samsung 1080p Smart TV we recently installed only had an optical output, for example.

I had to use one of these to interface to the RCA jacks in the AS:

Easyday Digital to Analog Audio Converter with Digital Optical Toslink and S/pdif Coaxial Inputs and Analog RCA and AUX 3.5mm (Headphone) Outputs - 6 Foot Heavy Duty Optical Toslink Cable with Gold Plated Connector Tips Included https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NJCCAKY..._jAsCzbM7VG045

Especially if you are eventually going to put a sound bar or similar in place.

[Chuck]

Yeah, I noticed that when I was browsing a couple of small tv's on the web...some have optical, some analog, some neither, some both...no standards!!
and it seems there may be a similar issue at the other end, too. Different car stereos have different inputs. (sigh).
so I'm thinking I need to run an HDMI, analog, and optical cable. Maybe 2 hdmi cables? I figure that I can make the front end-cap area into an "audio cabinet"; these days, the boxes are pretty small, so they'll fit up there fine, and I can run a separate rg6 cable to there, as well.
So the next question is: what kind of plate/outlet do you run these 2? or do you have to use one of those generic things that is just a big grommet, with a bundle of random a/v cables dangling out of the wall?

[DT57]

Originally Posted by Llando88

Sure:

The coax labeled 'Sat' ends in the electronics cabinet. It is left unattached from the factory. The cable is intended to be connected to a future Satellite receiver.

The coax labeled 'Cable' runs to a distribution box split to each of the TVs 'ant' input jack. It is intended to be connected to a campground Cable TV system.

Our rooftop Wineguard mushroom TV ant was broken off leaving the pedestal intact and the wire down inside somewhere. We only want to use the over air TV ant occasionally and I'm not inclined at this point to roof mount anything.

Can we connect a portable digital ant to the Furrion 'Cable' outside connector and make it work?
Thanks for any suggestions.

[GetawA-S]

Yes, but be prepared to fuss with the antenna location.
Just like the old days with Dad twisting the antenna pole! You may need to pull off the Winegard power injector plate and swap the rooftop/cable coax cables. I believe the rooftop is amplified and the cable is.not.
Our 2020 FBFC rooftop antenna is actually a King, should you decide to replace yours. For us, it’s a useless ornament.