LCD TV Mounting Bracket - One More Question

[SilverRanger]

Originally Posted by M&M CAPECOD

Still want to get more info on the best solutions for boondocking without having to run the generator, any suggestions out there????

So far, solar panels, glass mat batteries, a 400 watt voltage inverter, and a good supply of propane works for me. As long as we use the lights and appliances in moderation, we're good for a few days. I also keep an extra battery charged up in the tow vehicle, just in case.

[Westfalia]

Originally Posted by M&M CAPECOD

We picked up the backplate from Airstream when we were out there $38 and change, reasonable.

Do you have a part number for this? Last I remember reading, this piece bought thru a dealer cost around $100. If I can get it near your price, it make moving forward with the TV arm project affordable. Does anyone else have info on this?

[Gunnyusmc]

I have a 15" Sanyo mounted on swivle bracket from Wal-Mart for $80.00.
I can view from bedroom or livingroom.

[M&M CAPECOD]

Originally Posted by Westfalia

Do you have a part number for this? Last I remember reading, this piece bought thru a dealer cost around $100. If I can get it near your price, it make moving forward with the TV arm project affordable. Does anyone else have info on this?

The invoice reads like this:

Item No. 454230 Bracket-tv mount-wall
Price $38.43

This is for the backplate only. You provide your own velcro and arm to attach the tv to the backplate (look at post #10 for quick picture reference). Maybe you can call them directly and order it that way instead of going through your dealership. The number on the invoice is (937)596-6111. Make sure you tell them you only want the wall bracket and not the kit, they had it right in the store when I asked for it. It wasn't back in parts.

Hope this helps.

[M&M CAPECOD]

Originally Posted by Gunnyusmc

I have a 15" Sanyo mounted on swivle bracket from Wal-Mart for $80.00.
I can view from bedroom or livingroom.

Which wall did you mount it on? I'm trying to decide if I want to mount it on the fridge wall or the microwave wall. I don't like it being too high so I'm thinking I don't want to use the fridge wall but if I use the microwave wall I have to deal with the thermostat. Has anyone else dealt with this yet. Do I have to relocate the thermostat or is it o.k. to leave it where it is and just pull the t.v. out away from it if we're running a.c. or heat?

[niss1679]

Originally Posted by Mookie

Hey Scott,

This sounds like a great idea - something I could use in our rig. I would be very interested in seeing some pics.

Thanks,

-Mark

Mark and Mitch,
Sorry it took so long to post a reply. After talking to a freind of mine about fabricating an articulating mount and researching the one in the posts for sale from Monstronic for $60, I decided to purchase the one from Monstronic. I couldnt be more happy with it or how I mounted it. I have a freind that works at Alumax and he got me a piece of 3/16" x 8" x 11" piece of aluminum for the mount backing. I centered the mount on the aluminum and drilled the holes through for the mount. I then countesrunk the holes from the back side of the aluminum so I could put 1/4" x 1 1/4" SS PH machine screws through the aluminum and the mount from the back. I used SS acorn nuts on the front side to fasten the mount to the aluminum. I drilled 3/16" holes about 3/4"s apart around the aluminum plate to rivet the plate to my inner skin wall. I can now view my 17" LCD from the front and rear or the Safari. And get this, we even swung it out the door so you can watch it from outside. I did have to shim the bottom of the plate out 5/8" to compensate for the rounded sides of the Airstream, I just used aluminum square stock to do this. We were down at the ocean at Delaware State Park from Friday to Monday to test out what Ive done for her so far and the TV mounting system passes with flying colors! Heres what I did to secure it for traveling. Im having all new cushions and foam made and I just picked the foam up before we left. I took 2 cut off pieces about 4" x 4" x 12" and put them between the TV and the wall when its in the folded back position. I bought some 1" black nylon strap and snap buckles from the hardware store for fastening the straps. I mounted the strap ends to the 5/8" shim at the bottom of the aluminum plate below the TV and to the aluminum curtain track above it with aluminum stock 3/4" x 3/4" plates, SS screws and finish washers. This method worked great on the 700 mile round trip. I was trying to post pictures but Im having a hard time doing so. Every time I try, it tells me my picture size is too large. If you are interested and send me an email to nisslesa@etown.edu, if would be happy to reply with the pictures.

Thanks,

[Swanny]

Scott,

Thanks for taking the time to post this update. I'm still trying to figure out where to mount our LCD, but in the meantime we're having the two 'L' couches reupholstered. It's never ending

Mitch

[Mookie]

Originally Posted by niss1679

Mark and Mitch,
I was trying to post pictures but Im having a hard time doing so. Every time I try, it tells me my picture size is too large.

Thanks,

Scott sent me some pictures of his handywork and I offered to post them so everyone can benefit from his experience. Nice work, Scott. I think it's cool that you can swing your LCD panel outside - your own personal Drive-in!

-Mark

[Swanny]

That is really nice looking. I'm still trying to figure out where to mount the arm. 1 thing is for certain. The original Television mounting platform has to go because it's too high.

Anyhow, our latest edition to the AS is a surround sound system.

Yeah....I know....you're thinking why would anyone do that? Well there's nothing like watching a good old action movie and feeling the thump of the grenades going off. Of course we always adhere to the 10:00 curfew to keep from bugging the neighboring campers .

Mitch

[niss1679]

I thought of a suround system too. I settled for some good computer speakers for the LCD TV. You'd be surprized how it sounds.

Scott

[RivetED]

I have purchased the LCD TV mount from Airstream. Does anyone know if it can be secured to the wall with wood screws or does it have to be through-bolted. Our Safari 25 would have to have the refer removed for access to the rear of the mounting wall.

[M&M CAPECOD]

I know we posted to this a long time ago but we finally got around to making the purchase today. We decided to go with the

Sony KLV-S19A10 19" LCD 15:9 WEGA Flat Panel Television and the
Sanus VM3s VisionMount Wall Mount with Tilt, Swivel, Pan and Extend Motion - for 13" to 30" Flat Panel LCD TVs & Computer Monitors - Silver

We decided against the Omni Mount after coming across a review that said it was not recommended for panels over 15" diagonal. The Sanus was a bit more $$ but its stats gave it up to a 30" panel (not sure we'll ever get that big in the Airstream).

We ordered everything through B&H Photo out of NYC. We've shopped both in the store and online with them before and have been very pleased with the service. Shipping was cheap and no sales tax. Here's the website with the lcd displayed, if you look down at accessories you'll see the wall mount listed. http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?A=details&Q=&is=REG&O=productlist&kw=SOKLVS19 A10&cpncode=09-3672355-2&sku=367832&srccode=cii_13736960

It should be easy to hook this up to the new jvc dvd receiver we replaced the old cd player with and the bazooka non-powered sub woofer that we installed under the front couch. I'm psyched to get it all connected, now I just can't wait for Spring and that first outing. I think I'll be spending a lot of days out in the Gray Lady this winter, you know making sure it's still working.

[Happycampers]

Have purchased the same mount for our 15" LCD and it works great.. nice to have the tv up and out of the way.. looks great.. got ours on ebay for $65 including shipping... Annie

[Swanny]

We just purchased a Sharp Aquos (sorry for the spelling) from Circuit city for $749. By the way it's the 20" model and what a picture. The set is also an HD monitor, so we're ready to go.

Mitch

[balrgn]

Santa may be bringing a 15" LCD, se we went on a search for a mounting bracket to suit where I want to mount it. I have looked at several mounting brackets and really not satisfied with any, So I am in the process of making one. I'll post pics later.

[RoadKingMoe]

I've posted this before, but given this is the Christmas buying season, perhaps it might be helpful again.

In purchasing an HD-compatible LCD TV, here are some things to look for:

1. Resolution of at least 720 pixels vertically (typically 768) and 1280 horizontally. This supports the lower of the HDTV resolutions, 720p (progressive scan), natively. It also supports the higher HDTV resolution of 1080i (interlace scan), which is 1080 pixels vertically (typically 1200) by 1920 horizontally, by scaling. And of course, it can support the lower resolutions of standard definition (SDTV 480i x 640) and enhanced definition (EDTV 480p x 854) by scaling. There are no Airstream-sized LCD TVs I know of that support 1080i natively (i.e. have that many pixels). Nevertheless, when they do appear, they will also support the lower HDTV and SDTV resolutions through scaling.

WARNING: There are some SDTV and EDTV TVs advertised as HD-compatible. They typically have one input for that, and they scale down or crop the HDTV video to fit the SDTV or EDTV resolution.

2. Component video input, also known as YPbPr. Current DVD technology stores data in Component format, and for the best picture, that's the connectivity you want to use. Using S-Video or worse, Composite video, to transmit these signals degrades the quality. Component video is an analog signal while HDTV from terrestrial or satellite broadcast, or cable, is digital. Most HDTV source boxes, such as tuners and cable boxes, convert that to analog Component that can be used by TVs that only support this standard.

WARNING: Not all TV Component video inputs support HDTV! Some only support SDTV, which is what is stored on current technology DVDs. Read the specifications carefully.

3. HDMI input. This advanced standard for connecting HDTV sources to TVs is a digital signal, and now the standard. It carries both video and audio, compared to the interim standard that was DVI-HDCP (also digital), which carried video-only. HDMI is backwards compatible with DVI-HDCP, meaning TVs with HDMI can support all features of both. DVI-HDCP and HDMI support copy protection. There is the strong possibility that future HDTV sources may not output copy-protected material over non-copy protected outputs, such as analog Component.

WARNING: Not all TVs with DVI input can read and decode DVI from HDTV sources. Read the specifications carefully. Some specify that their DVI input is only for use with personal computers, a different form of DVI.

4. Number of inputs. If your TV doesn't have an ATSC digital tuner for Over-The-Air digital broadcasts, and few small TVs do at this time, you will need at least an external tuner for that, and an input for it, preferably HDMI, but at least Component. If you subscribe to HD satellite service and have a tuner for that, it probably also has an ATSC tuner in it, and the two share one TV input.

Preferably, you will use a HDMI input for this. If your TV doesn't have an HDMI input, and has only one Component video input, you will have to downgrade the quality of your DVD connection, and use the S-Video input. If your TV doesn't have S-Video input, you will have to downgrade further and use the Composite video. Keep in mind that if you still use VHS tapes, you will need a composite video input for that.

When HD-DVDs finally do come to market, the players may only support copy-protected HDMI connection. If you buy one of these, you will need an input for it.

If you are one of the rare birds who still has an S-VHS unit, or the early laserdiscs, you will need an S-Video input for these.

5. Native 12 volt DC input. A nice-to-have, not a need-to-have. Some LCD TVs use an external AC power supply, also known as a "wall wart," which provides 12VDC on its output. These can be hooked up directly to 12VDC and save a little battery power, instead of using a 120VAC only TV through a less than 100% efficient inverter. However, if you are going to use a satellite receiver, you will have to use an inverter anyway since the receiver supplies the dish with greater than 12VDC power, and they don't make 12VDC satellite receivers.

6. Size. The width of the front of our credenza is about 18" to the curtains. To maximize the screen size that can be put in this space, look for TVs that don't have the speakers on either side of the screen.

Hope this helps,

[balrgn]

Made this in my spare time

[gklott]

Maurice, excellent information.

We've been searching for the best way to wall mount the bracket. The mount would go over the wall covering in the forward section of our Classic.

I've seen several suggested mounts. Many are on the wood walls.

How do you mount the TV bracket on the wall without going thru to the outer skin and get enough support? Also, how do you run power, coax, speaker wires, etc. without removing the wall covering?

Because of the wall support issue, we've pretty well decided on mounting the bracket to the lower credenza unit.

73/gus

[Swanny]

Originally Posted by balrgn

Made this in my spare time

Balgrn---That's an awesome bracket.

Mitch

[cosmotini]

Originally Posted by gklott

How do you mount the TV bracket on the wall without going thru to the outer skin and get enough support? Also, how do you run power, coax, speaker wires, etc. without removing the wall covering?

The factory made up this channel for me. All it does is hide the power and coax cables and looks nicer than just having the wires hanging from behind the tv unit.

They covered it in the same cloth that is on the base of the couch.

Dennis