Quote:
Originally Posted by WALL-E
I took your advice to heart, and am planning to mount the camera at the top of the window frame between the glass and the screen. With the bracket pushed all the way "back" toward the inside of the coach, the camera clears the glass by roughly 1/2". The screen will have to be cut to accommodate the rear of the camera, but this shouldn't reduce the screen's efficacy and can easily be returned to stock if needed.
QUESTION: Was the hole in the floor already there (as in stock)? If so, where? I'd be happy to take advantage of this preexisting condition, if such a thing exists.
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I know it’s been a minute, but just one caveat when mounting INSIDE the rear-facing window: Any built-in infrared (night vision) lights on the camera will reflect off the glass, effectively “blinding” the view. As such, you won’t be able to see when backing up at night.
(This could be overcome by installing backup lights on the bumper and disabling the IR lights on the camera, perhaps?)
I opted to buy a wireless adapter that plugs into my camera (which is mounted outside, between the top teardrop lights and the rear window) and connects to a transmitter mounted inside the adjacent interior cabinet. This transmitter uses an app to display on my phone. It generally works really well (until I really need it), but for only $38 it’s halfway worth the extra finagling.*
[The price has since increased to $56.)
WishRing Wifi Car Backup Camera Realtime Video Transmitter for iPhone X
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011BDY7XA
To install: After drilling the mounting hole on the exterior, I drilled a second hole in the center of the interior cabinet as close to that outside location as possible. This allowed me to punch the cables directly into the cabinet, mounting the transmitter inside. Since my power source was on the left side of the cabinet (behind the stereo), I opted to fish that power wire between the cabinet and wall using a magnet; however, this could be just as easily achieved without hiding the wire.