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Old 05-07-2019, 02:24 PM   #1
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1080p 24" & 28" TV?

Has anyone found a true 1080p version of these sizes TV's? I just noticed that even though the output of my cable is delivering 1080p to the tv's, they look like crap.

Max resolution is 768 horizontal so it makes sense the tv is cropping and rescaling the 1080p to make it "fit".

I can't seem to find any true 1080p tvs under 32". Anyone have any tips or know of one?

720p sucks when you're used to watching a 4k 60"..... 1st world problem I know.......

Thoughts?
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Old 05-08-2019, 07:26 AM   #2
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This is the free market at work. Never understood why they use the term "free market" when every market I've been to isn't free but costs real money.

So the manufactures discovered that they could make 720 TVs cheaper than 1080s. Consumers evidently couldn't easily tell the difference on smaller screens (On smaller screens, the pixels are closer and closer together)
Consumers like to buy cheaper stuff (hence why Wal-mart is a bigger company than say, Neiman Markus)

But, yes, you can indeed purchase a 1080p 24" TV, you just have to look harder. Amazon has some for sale.
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Old 05-08-2019, 07:39 AM   #3
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You can go with a 32 inch. I have a 25FB with a 32 inch and it just fits the fridge wall. I lowered it a few inches and it doesn't stick out much past the wall no more than the fridge door depth. If you get a 32 inch with a narrower frame
you can do even better. I moved the factory provided 28" to the bedroom where it isn't used much.
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Old 05-08-2019, 08:28 AM   #4
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What I realized after I posted this and went home to test a theory was that I'm using Cox's cable box (small box) that has coax out and HDMI. The box is in the garage and I ran the output of the box to the input of the cable on the AS.

Well that output from the box is labeled SD to TV. So that is why I have a crappy picture.

I have the same box on my kitchen TV via HDMI and it is getting 1080p.

I move the box to the AS and ran HDMI to the 24" and it came right up as 1080p 60fps......and the picture looked "great"....I'm sure there is some crunching going on there, but a big improvement to the point of........."center of good enough" vs. what I had.

So I ordered a 3x2 matrix to drive the tvs, and I'll move the cox box into the trailer and put the DVD into the second port leaving an open port for any other HDMI device that needs to attach.

Now I just need to figure out how to get into the DVD area to make the changes. Not sure how it is screwed in, there are 4 screws on the left, and an access panel I can't seem to get off.......
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Old 05-08-2019, 08:29 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRIPPPIN View Post
You can go with a 32 inch. I have a 25FB with a 32 inch and it just fits the fridge wall. I lowered it a few inches and it doesn't stick out much past the wall no more than the fridge door depth. If you get a 32 inch with a narrower frame
you can do even better. I moved the factory provided 28" to the bedroom where it isn't used much.
I was looking at 32's but I just didn't want to have to move anything and it looks like it would "jut out" just a bit......so I went to look for another method.....see above post for clarification of what I found out (i.e. I was doing it wrong!).

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Old 05-08-2019, 09:46 AM   #6
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I went to 32". Worked out really well for my install. Didn't move the mount.

Shifted the factory-installed 28" to the bedroom and got rid of the 24". Added Samsung TV Mate soundbar. Much better experience.

I deployed this 32" 1080p unit:

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung...?skuId=6202106

Samsung UN32N5300AFXZA.

and soundbar:

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung...?skuId=6199819

Samsung HW-N400/ZA

I also have audio feed back to my pioneer audio system in the trailer, so if content is not locked, I can also play audio from the TV / Soundbar through the pioneer / Polk audio system I have upgraded in my trailer...
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Old 05-08-2019, 09:55 AM   #7
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Seems to me I remember that Airstream has had Samsung models for a long time. I believe I've read here that customers were having problems with "other" tv's when hooking up to campground cable. Most other TV's do not work as there is a protecti0on scheme in there if you do not have a cable box.

So be aware that adding a new TV to your Airstream may actually cause a problem using basic cable from a campground.

Others with more knowledge could chime in here.

Glad you got it fixed.
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Old 05-08-2019, 11:30 AM   #8
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I have this one at home and it's been reliable.
VIZIO - 24" Class - LED - D-Series - 1080p - Smart - HDTV
I may have the older version, but it has a optical audio output for a soundbar.
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Old 05-08-2019, 02:14 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kittmaster View Post

720p sucks when you're used to watching a 4k 60"
This statement is your answer. Anything less will suck.
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Old 05-08-2019, 04:14 PM   #10
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Check out the Jensen line of TV for use in marine or RV environments. Internal boards are coated to prevent corrosion or other problems in moisture environments. They have 12 volt versions of which I have the 24" version in my 25' mid bath. It has been in there for over 5 years and still going strong with great picture. They make all kinds of sizes and I recommend them for your trailer.
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Old 05-08-2019, 09:42 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by wulfraat View Post
I also have audio feed back to my pioneer audio system in the trailer, so if content is not locked, I can also play audio from the TV / Soundbar through the pioneer / Polk audio system I have upgraded in my trailer...

Out of curiosity, what do you mean by locked content?
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Old 05-08-2019, 09:56 PM   #12
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1080p 24" & 28" TV?

Quote:
Originally Posted by nryn View Post
Out of curiosity, what do you mean by locked content?


Certain digital broadcasts lock the content so it can only be viewed on a single screen. This is implemented through security handshakes within the HDMI communication protocol and is referred to as High-bandwidth Digital Content Protection (HDCP).

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/High...ent_Protection

If you try to re-broadcast the audio or video (ďdaisy chainĒ) via secondary hdmi or optical output it will be blocked.

I have my main stereo head unit fed off the optical out of the soundbar... Input to the soundbar is via HDMI ARC (audio return channel) from the smart TV. What this means is that certain broadcasts (Netflix for example) audio replication on a secondary optical out channel is prevented, and I cannot hear the audio on my pioneer head unit. Sometimes the content is not locked (with other digital broadcasts) and you can hear it just fine no problemo.

Itís a content licensing thing that takes advantage of HDMI protocols to prevent replication of the content on multiple screens or audio devices or recording devices.
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Old 05-09-2019, 10:42 PM   #13
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Itís a content licensing thing that takes advantage of HDMI protocols to prevent replication of the content on multiple screens or audio devices or recording devices.
Got it--I know what HDCP is. Had to look up ARC though Last time I did anything AV related was when my kids were born. Haven't had time since...

In my Globetrotter, there is a strange (home-brew?) wire with a set of RCA jacks coming out from a hole in the TV--not the RCA ports on the TV-- and it's those that connect to the Polk Audio system. Sadly, there is no option in the TV menus to turn off the speakers on the TV, so you have tinny TV sound and the Polk audio sound at the same time. I suppose I could go in there and disconnect the speakers. I also bought two new ceiling speakers to install facing down in corners of the upper lounge cabinet--the front-facing speakers are great unless you are behind and under them, in which case you mostly hear the sub and speech is really hard to understand. But I'm hesitating to install them. So I was interested in your soundbar.

Anyway, a month or so ago our local Costco had a big sale on the N5300 that you mention and I bought it to replace the OEM Samsung TV (which is not a very good model at all). The only real audio out it has is optical.

So the choices I've decided to make available to myself:
  1. get a soundbar, don't install the speakers, and just run optical from the TV to the soundbar. Skip running the audio to the Polk audio system. I don't really watch TV much anyway (once a week or so), but an occasional family movie would go a long way on a rainy spell.
  2. install the speakers, get an optical>RCA converter and run all audio through the Polk. I understand that some TV broadcasts would not go through the optical, and that's fine. I also understand that there may be some incompatibility between surround formats and the optical connection, and that will drive me bonkers
  3. Install the speakers and get an HDMI switch with a pair of audio RCA outs. I'm wary about doing this though because of HDCP (all of our content is basically AppleTV or iTunes/Netflix movies).
  4. Just install the TV and use it as-is.

I've messed around with soundbars and like them better than TV speakers, of course, but haven't found any that sound very good without a sub. The Polk system in the GT sounds pretty good (speaker directionality issue notwithstanding).

Just typing these ideas out. I realize this is a little off topic (sorry OP), but to bring it back onto topic--you'll need to look at the outputs on whatever TV you purchase if you want to connect it to any existing equipment. I was a little surprised how few of them have RCA audio outs now.
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Old 05-09-2019, 10:51 PM   #14
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1080p 24" & 28" TV?

Here is what I did....I used 2 different audio outputs from the TV... turns out they are both active at the same time....

(1) HDMI ARC to sound bar.

(2) Optical out from TV to optical->RCA adapter... then connected to rca stereo cables to feed audio back to the stereo...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KN...b_b_asin_title

The built in speakers for the Samsung TVs are crummy at best. At a minimum consider adding a soundbar. The one I stuck in works well, and fits the space nicely. Also avoids audio blasting down from above if you donít want that effect.....

PS - I also ditched the factory sub and replaced with a basic 10Ē pioneer unit with built in amp. Huge difference and only cost about $115 bucks.
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Old 05-09-2019, 10:56 PM   #15
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I hadn't considered a soundbar but it makes a lot of sense. I would probably skip all the rest of the installation nonsense if I could find a good one, and would even just take the sub out (it's a power thief and doesn't have a switch).

Thanks for the idea--will start looking into them.
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Old 05-09-2019, 11:02 PM   #16
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1080p 24" & 28" TV?

Yup soundbar is the boss. $14 bucks more allows you to pipe audio back to your head unit as well with an optical converter. I like the one I installed (Samsung unit noted in previous post). Not a $700 surround sound experience but much better than 10w TV speakers. Itís a camper right?

I upgraded my head unit to a pioneer DA-120 dual DIN touch screen. It has HDMI input as one of its sources, so I could also split the HDMI off my Apple TV in the cabinet and feed output to both TV and head unit... but I havenít gotten around to that yet...
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Old 05-10-2019, 06:10 AM   #17
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So for followup, while the coach coax is fine for most short term applications, I couldn't get HD to the TV's because my cox communications box was/is SD only via coax....so....doing some research, I found that the DVD is split via HDMI to both TV's and running true 1080p. Knowing this, it made sense to get an HDMI switcher. (We spend a lot to time in it at home, parked, hooked up....so having our cable supplier in there is the main reason for all of this).

As an FYI, the HDMI cables Airstream is using to run to the TV's are horrendous.....in terms of how stiff they are, but understandably so, this is not a defect, just an observation of their rigidity and having to work with them. They literally are hard to bend. So since I'm not gaming, latency from any source to TV is not important here.

So I went out and bought a 3x2 HDMI switch, this one specifically:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It takes in THREE HDMI's and replicates it to BOTH outputs. So you can't "pick and choose" different material to each screen like a true HDMI matrix would allow. In this case, for me, I don't care, same content on both screens is fine as the wife and I would always watch the same content or if not, go do something else.......LOL.

The MAIN issue with a device like this is that you need ACCESS to it via Infrared remote control or the manual push button select on the front to be able to switch between all 3 inputs.......meaning, you can't bury it under the cabinet.......well you could......but.....

The other neat thing about this is.....in my case.....HDMI 1 is OPEN/not used full time, it can be used to add a Fire TV Stick, Roku, or whatever later on......but input 2 is dedicated to the cox communications box and now provides 1080p via HDMI instead of the crappy SD over coax, the 3rd input is the DVD player.

Overall it takes about 2-3 seconds for it to switch between HDMI inputs, which is totally normal due to the handshaking required between the host and source units.......

The 3x2 then FEEDS the 1x2 splitter (even though my 3x2 can drive both at the same time) provided by Airstream........why? .....because the damn cables are so rigid and short that I'd have to add extensions to them just to try and reach the top of the cabinet.....and since I need access to the 3x2 box, it just made sense to send the 3x2 to the 1x2 splitter and run it that way......

From a TV and DVD perspective......works great, remote to visual time like a "guide" on the TV, works just like normal, very fast response between the two boxes being chained the way they are........would I run an Xbox .....maybe not....but possible, video latency would play into this part of it....YMMV.

It ran late and I didn't get a chance to finish, will try to have it buttoned up tonight and will post final pictures.

BTW, Airstream added a side "access" panel (for wiring access) and then saw fit to pocket screw it permanently (not sure what they were thinking here)....so when you take out the two screws, you'd expect the panel to come off........nope, it's screwed in from the INSIDE.....on the 2019 Serenity, you have to remove all 4 screws on the left side of the cabinet to remove the DVD cabinet feature to access it like you see in these attached images.

Out for now.

Chris
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Old 05-15-2019, 07:55 PM   #18
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Broadcast TV is 720. On most TVs if you mute it the audio output still will work.
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Old 05-15-2019, 11:40 PM   #19
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1080p 24" & 28" TV?

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Originally Posted by gcarter View Post
Broadcast TV is 720. On most TVs if you mute it the audio output still will work.


Broadcast TV channels are a mix of 720p and 1080i. There are many 1080 channels.
We upgraded our bedroom tv to a 1080, mostly because we wanted to also use it as a computer monitor and 720 is far too low a resolution for that.
We got a 2017 LG 22LJ4540 off of Amazon. The newer models are only 720. It does seem it is next to impossible to find a small, high resolution TV in a major brand anymore, especially if you donít want a smart one. A few years ago they were fairly common, but it seems the major manufacturers have all written off the small TV market and only have a few token cheap junk models now. Another option I was looking at was buying a computer monitor and a separate TV tuner. You can easily get a 4K monitor in under 32Ē.
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Old 05-16-2019, 07:18 AM   #20
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Soundbar install

Wulff,


How did you mount the soundbar? Does it swing out with the TV or is it fixed to the wall?


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