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Old 06-19-2015, 06:02 PM   #1
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2014 27' FB International
Avila Beach , California
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 63
Atwood stovetop removal

Gang,

We have 2014 AS with an Atwood stove top range and oven. The striker has not worked since new and consequently we've been using a match to light the thing. Not a big deal but hey, it should work. I read in a recent post on the same subject that this could be simply a grounding problem or a matter of rerouting some wires to prevent the striker from grounding out...Great and sounds easy, so being a rather handy fellow (or maybe not so much given this question) and not wanting to wait three months to get the silly thing fixed by the dealer 5.5 hours away, I decided to tackle this one myself. Problem is I can't even figure out how to get to the area under the stove top burners to access the striker wires, e.g. under the black, what I will call drip tray.

Has anyone done this, and if so could you possibly walk me through it? Nothing on You Tube, in my Atwood manual or their website, etc, so I turn to my fellow Streamers...
Thanks to all who respond (except to those who say "take it to the dealer", okay, thank you to you too )
Logrider- Avila Beach, CA
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Old 06-19-2015, 07:53 PM   #2
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1974 Argosy 20
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Kooskia , Idaho
Join Date: Jul 2009
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I was looking at mine the other day, and since it is now officially out of warrantee, wondered the same thing. So, will be watching for the answer from our other Forum members.
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Old 06-19-2015, 08:22 PM   #3
RAH
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2013 30' Flying Cloud
Cincinnati , Ohio
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 205
on my Atwood, I slide the entire black cover forward about a quarter inch or less, and it then lifts up. there are two little clips one on each side, and the sliding forward allows the cover to be lifted. Don't pull up until the clips are cleared or you can bend them. Then you can see the tubes that deliver the gas to each burner, and the little sparkers for each burner. The wires on each sparker can be re-attached, they seem to fall off some times. Then you put everything back together. The trick then is to get the round silver piece of each burner to fit over each gas tube, and then turn about an inch clockwise to secure it. Then put the black cover back in place. Then your burner lighters will work for at least a day or until you move again.

I have checked the sparker wires several times. I no longer do so, nor do I care. I light the burners with a BBQ lighter every time and don't even try the sparker. That has eliminated one stress!
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Old 06-19-2015, 08:50 PM   #4
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2019 25' International
Traverse City , Michigan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RAH View Post
on my Atwood, I slide the entire black cover forward about a quarter inch or less, and it then lifts up. there are two little clips one on each side, and the sliding forward allows the cover to be lifted. Don't pull up until the clips are cleared or you can bend them. Then you can see the tubes that deliver the gas to each burner, and the little sparkers for each burner. The wires on each sparker can be re-attached, they seem to fall off some times. Then you put everything back together. The trick then is to get the round silver piece of each burner to fit over each gas tube, and then turn about an inch clockwise to secure it. Then put the black cover back in place. Then your burner lighters will work for at least a day or until you move again.



I have checked the sparker wires several times. I no longer do so, nor do I care. I light the burners with a BBQ lighter every time and don't even try the sparker. That has eliminated one stress!

Very helpful! The igniters worked perfectly on my 2011 before we bounced our way down I65 in March this year. Now none work. Guess we'll stick to the BBQ lighter!


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