RV News RVBusiness 2021 Top 10 RVs of the Year, plus 56 additional debuts and must-see units → ×
 


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 09-11-2011, 11:37 AM   #1
2 Rivet Member
 
Austin , Texas
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 98
Images: 18
Yay! 50 amp Service upgrade - Done

It was a challenge but we successfully upgraded to a 50 amp service with 8 breakers. Took us about 4 hours but we are ready for the 2nd AC; just in time for the temp to drop soon. If anyone needs an airstream 30 amp cable it's available.
yve79 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-12-2011, 06:17 AM   #2
Rivet Master
 
Skater's Avatar
 
1995 30' Excella
Bowie , Maryland
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,344
Quote:
Originally Posted by yve79 View Post
It was a challenge but we successfully upgraded to a 50 amp service with 8 breakers. Took us about 4 hours but we are ready for the 2nd AC; just in time for the temp to drop soon. If anyone needs an airstream 30 amp cable it's available.
I'd add another end and make it an extension cord for those times when I need an extension cord but don't need 50 amp service.

Congratulations on the conversion!
__________________
1995 Airstream Classic 30' Excella 1000
2014 Ram 2500 Crew Cab with Cummins 6.7L Diesel

Sold but not forgotten: 1991 Airstream B190
Sold: 2006 F-250 6.0L Powerstroke Supercab
Skater is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-12-2011, 10:15 AM   #3
2 Rivet Member
 
Austin , Texas
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 98
Images: 18
No clue what your talking about but I will pass the suggestion on to the husband and see what he thinks.

Thanks for the reply!
yve79 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2012, 10:32 AM   #4
2 Rivet Member
 
Austin , Texas
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 98
Images: 18
Diagram for 50 amp conversion.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	image-2202129017.jpg
Views:	202
Size:	372.4 KB
ID:	171300  
yve79 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2012, 10:37 AM   #5
Site Team
 
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,586
Images: 59
You need to break apart the ground and neutral. As shown in your diagram it is unsafe.
markdoane is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2012, 10:40 AM   #6
Site Team
 
azflycaster's Avatar

 
2002 25' Safari
Dewey , Arizona
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 14,173
Images: 62
Blog Entries: 1
I noticed that you tied neutral to ground inside the breaker box. On a 30amp system these two are isolated from each other on separate buses. I think it should be the same on 50amp service also, but I am not an electrical.
__________________

Richard

Wally Byam Airstream Club 7513
azflycaster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2012, 11:34 AM   #7
Rivet Master
Commercial Member
 
Vintage Kin Owner
Naples , Florida
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 7,379
Quote:
Originally Posted by azflycaster View Post
I noticed that you tied neutral to ground inside the breaker box. On a 30amp system these two are isolated from each other on separate buses. I think it should be the same on 50amp service also, but I am not an electrical.
ABSOLUTELY!!!!

The ground and neutral should be on separate bus bars, NOT tied together for any RV installation. Your installation as posted is a recipe for disaster or worse.

I WOULD CORRECT THIS IMMEDIATELY AND NOT PLUG IN THE TRAILER TO YOUR POWER SOURCE UNTIL IT IS FIXED PROPERLY
__________________
lewster
Solar Tech Energy Systems, Inc.
Victron Solar Components and Inverters, Zamp Solar Panels, LiFeBlue and Battle Born Lithium Batteries, Lifeline AGM Batteries
lewster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2012, 11:59 AM   #8
Site Team
 
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,586
Images: 59
Also, the plug or receptacle you show is for 30amp 120/240vac, not 50amp service. And if it was the correct recptacle you have the ground and neutral reversed. Please hire an electrician before something bad happens.
markdoane is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2012, 12:13 PM   #9
Rivet Master
 
TG Twinkie's Avatar
 
1974 Argosy 26
Morrill , Nebraska
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 6,000
Images: 2
Blog Entries: 5
I haven't used a 50 amp service at a campground, but I think you will find that only half of your panel will be hot. Since I believe it is wired thru a single breaker and not a double pole breaker, which is typically how the 240 volt wiring is done in your home.
The neutral and ground should not be connected together. The neutral should not be bonded to the trailer body. Only the ground should be bonded to the trailer body.
TG Twinkie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2012, 12:33 PM   #10
Site Team
 
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,586
Images: 59
TG,
Not true. Both legs are hot and feed through a 2 pole breaker.
markdoane is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2012, 12:38 PM   #11
2 Rivet Member
 
Austin , Texas
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 98
Images: 18
If that scares you I guess you shouldn't look ten feet away at your service where the ground and neutral are always tied together. In small electrical boxes they generally are not available with a separate ground and neutral bar. FYI, you're no safer with the ground and neutral (aka a grounded conductor) separated. All your signal lights are using your trailer frame as the ground.
yve79 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2012, 12:40 PM   #12
Site Team
 
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,586
Images: 59
You don't understand the basics of electrical safety. Please stop before you burn down your trailer.
Also, you should have bought a box with mains breakers, not a mains lug box. You are in way over your head.
markdoane is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2012, 12:46 PM   #13
2 Rivet Member
 
Austin , Texas
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 98
Images: 18
Why would I need two breakers? There is a 50 amp breaker right outside. The original box that I replaced did not have a main breaker either.
yve79 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2012, 12:51 PM   #14
Site Team
 
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,586
Images: 59
The original box probably had a main breaker, you just didn't notice that it was backfed from the inlet.
markdoane is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2012, 01:15 PM   #15
Rivet Master
 
1981 31' Excella II
New Market , Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 6,128
Every electrical box I have seen has both the neutral and ground hooked to the same bus inside the breaker box. There is no other way to do it if you use a standard box. You do need separate neutral and ground wires leading away from the box to the various circuits in the trailer. There should also be a ground between the box and the trailer. It is not a bad idea to have a separate ground stake outside the trailer as well.

I think AS turned a standard box on my trailer into a 120V box by backfeeding through a 30 AMP breaker and then jumpering the two hot rails together so both sets of breakers work.

Perry
perryg114 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2012, 01:39 PM   #16
Site Team
 
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,586
Images: 59
Quote:
Originally Posted by perryg114 View Post
Every electrical box I have seen has both the neutral and ground hooked to the same bus inside the breaker box.
Perry
This is untrue. The only electrical box where the gound and neutral are bonded is the MAIN SERVICE PANEL, not a subpanel. Subpanels always have separate ground and neutral. Most of the panels you buy at Home Depot or Lowes have a removable bonding connection between the ground and neutral bus.

You're supposed to read the directions and understand whether you are installing a main panel or a subpanel. If it's a subpanel, you need to buy a grounding bus and install it in the panel. There are always holes and a location for the ground bar.

The main panel in a trailer is really a subpanel, and via the power cord plugs into an outlet. The box where you plug in the power cord is the main panel and that is where the ground and neutral are bonded.

Any other method is incorrect and unsafe. Please if you don't understand the rules, call a professional.
markdoane is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2012, 01:50 PM   #17
4 Rivet Member
 
10Smiles's Avatar
 
2005 30' Classic
Kingston , Washington
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 252
Quote:
Originally Posted by markdoane View Post
This is untrue. The only electrical box where the gound and neutral are bonded is the MAIN SERVICE PANEL, not a subpanel. Subpanels always have separate ground and neutral. Most of the panels you buy at Home Depot or Lowes have a removable bonding connection between the ground and neutral bus.

You're supposed to read the directions and understand whether you are installing a main panel or a subpanel. If it's a subpanel, you need to buy a grounding bus and install it in the panel. There are always holes and a location for the ground bar.

The main panel in a trailer is really a subpanel, and via the power cord plugs into an outlet. The box where you plug in the power cord is the main panel and that is where the ground and neutral are bonded.

Any other method is incorrect and unsafe. Please if you don't understand the rules, call a professional.
X2 X2... Well said!

This is an easy fix, just get the neutral busbar that can be isolated from the metal panel and you will be done.
10Smiles is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2012, 01:50 PM   #18
Rivet Master
 
TG Twinkie's Avatar
 
1974 Argosy 26
Morrill , Nebraska
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 6,000
Images: 2
Blog Entries: 5
Typically a box you get a places like Home Depot is set up to use as a Main Distribution Box. Not as a Sub Panel.
The panel in your trailer is considered a Sub Panel.
Depending on the use there is a long green screw called a Bonding Screw that is used to BOND the neutral buss to the cabinet. In the case of a Main Panel, this screw would be inserted thru a hole in the neutral buss and screwed into the chassis or metal box. These panels have provisions for a ground buss as well, which by the method of mounting bonds the ground buss to the cabinet or metal box.
In the case if a Sub panel, the neutral is not bonded.
There are a number if sights on the web that give specifics on RV wiring. Both the 120 volt side as well as the 12 volt side.
Don't confuse the AC ground circuit with the DC ground circuit. They are 2 different animals.
The AC ground is for SAFETY.
The DC ground is a method used to save wire. Where the chassis of the trailer is used for the return path on most DC circuits. It was mislabeled years ago in the Auto industry and has carried over to the RV industry. It should have been labeled "Common", since it is the negative side of the DC circuits and is "Common" to all DC components in the RV. There are typically no switching devices on the Common side of the circuit.
I would strongly recommend that you do your homework on this subject. If not totally competent about what you are doing. Hire someone who is. Your LIFE could depend on it.
There is a web site: dasplace.net/RVWiring/wiring.hotmail
Check it out.
TG Twinkie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2012, 01:57 PM   #19
Rivet Master
 
TG Twinkie's Avatar
 
1974 Argosy 26
Morrill , Nebraska
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 6,000
Images: 2
Blog Entries: 5
Here is another web site. With better info: www.myrv.us/electric/
TG Twinkie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2012, 02:22 PM   #20
Rivet Master
 
1981 31' Excella II
New Market , Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 6,128
Ok so why is it unsafe for the neutral and ground to be connected in a sub panel?

Here is a link I found on what the problem is.

http://inspectapedia.com/electric/El...utral_Lost.htm

I need to look at my shop wiring. Looks like I need to separate the blocks and also put in a ground stake.

Perry
perryg114 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
30 Amp to 15 Amp Adapter to House Power Question Steamboatbob Batteries, Univolts, Converters & Inverters 39 08-08-2018 11:58 AM
2008 Airstream Classic 31! 50 Amp Service, 2 AC Units! eBay Watch Airstreams on eBay 0 08-30-2011 09:20 PM
3 Amp Availability gaylejoe WBCCI Forum 27 08-06-2011 04:38 PM
Question on using 50 amp sevice RLS Electrical - Systems, Generators, Batteries & Solar 16 02-04-2011 02:14 PM
New Electric Service - YAY!!! or Life is Better When Everything WORKS!!! bugnot1 Winter Living 6 01-23-2011 11:32 PM


Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Airstream, Inc. or any of its affiliates. Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:02 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.