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02-03-2019, 06:47 PM
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#1
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2 Rivet Member 
2006 31' Classic
Youngsville
, Louisiana
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 20
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Wiring inverter to 30amp panel
Looking for advice on how/ where to run 110 wires from shore power
to inverter and back to main. We have a 31' classic 2006 with the charge controller, batteries and inverter under the sofa in the front. Would greatly appreciate it anyone has done this and can advise.
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02-03-2019, 07:12 PM
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#2
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Site Team

2017 30' International
Broomfield
, Colorado
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 3,555
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Wiring inverter to 30amp panel
What are you trying to accomplish? Do you want all branches of your panel hot with inverter power or only certain branches? Do you have a passthrough and / or hybrid inverter? What equipment are you looking to install? Transfer switch in the mix?
More details needed for advice [emoji4]
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02-03-2019, 07:21 PM
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#3
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2 Rivet Member 
2006 31' Classic
Youngsville
, Louisiana
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 20
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We have 30 amp service so the entire panel will be hot. It's a Victron 3000 watt multiplus hybrid inverter.
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02-04-2019, 04:58 AM
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#4
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Rivet Master 
2004 30' Classic
Johnson City
, Texas
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 591
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barnbridge
Looking for advice on how/ where to run 110 wires from shore power to inverter and back to main. We have a 31' classic 2006 with the charge controller, batteries and inverter under the sofa in the front. Would greatly appreciate it anyone has done this and can advise. We have 30 amp service so the entire panel will be hot. It's a Victron 3000 watt multiplus hybrid inverter.
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Believe you have the same rear compartment, street side power cord entry as we had in our 2004 30' Classic.
There is no "easy", hidden way to run new AC wiring inside from the street side rear power cord entry, past your bedroom, bathroom, shower, water heater, fridge, and credenza to the front under the sofa to the Victron - AND - new AC wiring back to your existing power panel in the rear. All the hidden spaces were jammed with AC and DC wiring.
You will likely need to remove the underneath panels and run a new conduit and wiring from front to rear.
For our AC power upgrade, we installed a new SmartPlug inlet and new AC panel just forward of the wheel well. Even if you have room without cabinet modifications, running the wiring along the street side will still be an issue.
Also,
Quote:
Originally Posted by wulfraat
What are you trying to accomplish? Do you want all branches of your panel hot with inverter power or only certain branches? Do you have a passthrough and / or hybrid inverter? What equipment are you looking to install? Transfer switch in the mix?
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wulfraat is right. You have lots more to consider on both the AC and DC power sides. For example. what AC circuits will be on the Victron's no-break side and the auxiliary side (A/C and water heater)? Do you have adequate space and ventilation under the front sofa?
73/gus
__________________
Gus - KR4K : Mary - K5MCL
2004 30ft. Classic
2017 Infiniti QX80 Limited
ProPride 3P/Prodigy P3
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02-04-2019, 05:56 AM
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#5
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4 Rivet Member 
Currently Looking...
Fort Davis
, Texas
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 257
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You are not just talking about adding an inverter. You're installing a Hybrid Inverter/Charger, which means your entire power system design will change.
That includes trashing your existing Converter and rewiring most of the AC and DC power conductors.
Below is a schematic which shows one way to do it.
Pat
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02-04-2019, 07:35 AM
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#6
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Rivet Master 
1984 27' Airstream 270
West Chester
, Ohio
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 515
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdavitt
You are not just talking about adding an inverter. You're installing a Hybrid Inverter/Charger, which means your entire power system design will change.
That includes trashing your existing Converter and rewiring most of the AC and DC power conductors.
Below is a schematic which shows one way to do it.
Pat

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This schematic represents a plan I could use in my rebuild. I was hoping to use the progressive dynamics power center (ac and dc panels with built in converter) and think the dc power to the converter could be wired to allow switching and control like you illustrated.
I’m wondering about the gfdi you included: Why was there a resister added to the ground circuit? And is this an all-in-1 component you have used, or would one need to add the resistor to the gfdi circuit?
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02-04-2019, 07:48 AM
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#7
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Rivet Master 

2004 28' Classic
Monument
, Colorado
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 1,576
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I did this with my 2004 Classic 28. I ran the wires under the bed, then under the bathroom cabinets, and then under the kitchen cabinets (all on the driver side). Under the microwave cabinet, I found an 1 1/2 inch conduit that went to the front driver side corner under the couch. If you want more information, just let me know.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Barnbridge
Looking for advice on how/ where to run 110 wires from shore power
to inverter and back to main. We have a 31' classic 2006 with the charge controller, batteries and inverter under the sofa in the front. Would greatly appreciate it anyone has done this and can advise.
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__________________
DaveP
2004 Airstream Classic 28 "Willard"
2023 Ram 3500 4x4
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02-04-2019, 07:53 AM
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#8
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4 Rivet Member 
Currently Looking...
Fort Davis
, Texas
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 257
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The GFDI is there to turn off power to the Charge Controller if there is a problem with the PV input. The resistor is a bypass so the DC Negative to Ground bond remains after the the power breaker trips.
Pat
Edit: I found a manual for a GFDI, see below:
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02-04-2019, 08:37 AM
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#9
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2 Rivet Member 
2006 31' Classic
Youngsville
, Louisiana
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 20
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Thanks Dave. I would appreciate any info you can provide I'm pretty sure I you e a route from front to rear for wiring via info I found on Facebook group from someone with the same pathways ours. I just checked it out and looks totally doable but would love advice regarding g the wiring.
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02-04-2019, 09:34 AM
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#10
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Rivet Master 

2004 28' Classic
Monument
, Colorado
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 1,576
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Barnbridge,
I have attached some documents showing my system that I did for someone else, so it is probably more than you wanted. This shows how I laid out my whole system. It also shows where I found the conduit. Let me know if you have any questions. Good luck!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Barnbridge
Thanks Dave. I would appreciate any info you can provide I'm pretty sure I you e a route from front to rear for wiring via info I found on Facebook group from someone with the same pathways ours. I just checked it out and looks totally doable but would love advice regarding g the wiring.
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__________________
DaveP
2004 Airstream Classic 28 "Willard"
2023 Ram 3500 4x4
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02-04-2019, 07:14 PM
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#11
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2 Rivet Member 
2006 31' Classic
Youngsville
, Louisiana
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 20
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Thaanks!!!
Looks great
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02-05-2019, 05:25 AM
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#12
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Rivet Master 
1984 27' Airstream 270
West Chester
, Ohio
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 515
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Thank you Pat! Keeping the negative lead in the solar circuit makes sense
I continue to be amazed (and grateful) for the experience and expertise found here!!!
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02-05-2019, 09:21 AM
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#13
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Rivet Master 
2004 30' Classic
Johnson City
, Texas
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 591
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveP
Barnbridge, I have attached some documents showing my system that I did for someone else, so it is probably more than you wanted. This shows how I laid out my whole system. It also shows where I found the conduit. Let me know if you have any questions. Good luck! 
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Thanks for sharing the document. Looks like a nicely done process. I too found the conduits, but ours had wires in both - DC bundle in one and two AC NM-B in the other. As expected, we were unable to fish through another AC wire through without first pulling out the other two.
There was also a DC wire pair not connected to anything. When I wrote AS about it, including pictures, they had no idea what the wires were for - except for saying it must be from a different configuration. It was energized, and left coiled up in the floor. Watch for those possibilities.
Was that conduit empty in yours? I noticed you ran individual wires, not a NM-B cable. What wire type did you run?
73/gus
__________________
Gus - KR4K : Mary - K5MCL
2004 30ft. Classic
2017 Infiniti QX80 Limited
ProPride 3P/Prodigy P3
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02-05-2019, 11:31 AM
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#14
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Rivet Master 

2004 28' Classic
Monument
, Colorado
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 1,576
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Hi Gus,
My conduit had only one 12-gauge Romex (NM-B) wire in it for a front outlet, so I had plenty of room. I ran 10-gauge individual wires (hot, neutral, ground) with 7 strands per wire as this was more flexible and easier to pull under the cabinets and through conduit. It was standard type household wire from Home Depot. I protected it, where needed, with spiral wrap. The individual wires run cooler, so it can carry more amps. I also ran the telephone cable for the Magnum remote in the conduit. The PO had already run one 10-gauge wire in conduit on the bottom of the trailer back to the main panel, so I utilized it for part of the circuit.
If I did this again, I learned from Lewster that I should use marine grade stranded wire for the AC circuits as these are capable of more reliable terminations than solid wire. Marine grade stranded wire is also much more flexible.
Let me know if you have any questions.
__________________
DaveP
2004 Airstream Classic 28 "Willard"
2023 Ram 3500 4x4
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