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09-25-2017, 05:41 PM
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#1
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2 Rivet Member
1973 31' Sovereign
Austin
, Texas
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 87
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Why is my 30 amp shore power getting too hot?
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09-25-2017, 05:55 PM
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#2
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Rivet Master
2006 25' Safari FB SE
Spokane
, Washington
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,848
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Are you using an adapter? If so, this might be your issue especially if you are running your AC and other big loads.
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09-25-2017, 06:03 PM
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#3
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2 Rivet Member
1973 31' Sovereign
Austin
, Texas
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 87
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No plug into 30 specific extension cord for one pic and male end is from being plugged directly in 30 amp box
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09-25-2017, 06:04 PM
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#4
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Rivet Master
1988 25' Excella
1987 32' Excella
Knoxville
, Tennessee
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 5,103
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Dirty, corroded terminals. Wet maybe also. A new male plug and a new adaptor are in order. Mine looked just like that when I changed it. The new stuff works fine.
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09-25-2017, 06:06 PM
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#5
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Rivet Master
2019 27' Flying Cloud
Kansas City
, Missouri
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 1,967
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make sure you un-spool the cord length. If it is kept coiled up it can overheat it.
__________________
Piggy Bank
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09-25-2017, 06:26 PM
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#6
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Half a Rivet Short
2017 30' Classic
2022 Interstate 24X
Carlisle
, Pennsylvania
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 15,684
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Hi
Simple answer: The stuff you plug into often is not in very good shape.
More complicated answer: The socket on the pedestal in a campground can see a lot of use. As it wears out the plug fits more loosely in it. A loose fit means heat. That can damage your plug and it will continue to heat up.
Next level answer: If you have a 50A trailer and a 30A plug, there can be some other things happening.
=========
A lot of very big RV's run power cord spools. The wire is tight on them when in use. They suffer no major impact from it. A coil of typical AS cable on the ground is no better / no worse than the same cable spread out all over the place. It's not going to melt either way.
Bob
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09-25-2017, 06:35 PM
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#7
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Rivet Master
1983 34' Excella
1967 24' Tradewind
Little Rock
, Arkansas
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 3,825
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+1
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill M.
Dirty, corroded terminals. Wet maybe also. A new male plug and a new adaptor are in order. Mine looked just like that when I changed it. The new stuff works fine.
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Me too.
Been there, done that. Twice.
I was plugging in directly without an adapter, the male plug was just corroded. The corrosion creates resistance which generates heat. (Running electric current through wires or elements with high resistance is how electric heaters, ovens, water heaters, and toasters work.)
When you put one on, make sure you cut off any wires in the cord that are also corroded. You may have to shorten the cord a few inches, but you want all clean connections.
A brand new cord would be better, but replacing the male plug is much easier. At least on my Excella.
__________________
Vaughan
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09-25-2017, 06:35 PM
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#8
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Rivet Master
2002 30' Classic S/O
Fleming Island
, Florida
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 4,668
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It's too late to do it now, but after you change the connectors, measure the voltage at the trailer. If the voltage is low and the air conditioner is on, it will draw more current than it would if the voltage were right.
That said, the connector is rated for 30A and should be protected by a 30A breaker. I'm guessing it is just old age, corrosion, and being used at campgrounds where the 30A outlet is worn. If I plug in at a campground and the connection feels loose I will use my 50-30 adapter and plug into a 50A outlet. My plug was getting hot. I scraped the corrosion off down to bare copper and it didn't heat up any more. I still need to change it as the plating that prevents corrosion is gone.
Al
__________________
“You cannot reason someone out of a position they have not been reasoned into"
Al, K5TAN and Missy, N4RGO WBCCI 1322
2002 Classic 30 Slideout -S/OS #004
2013 Dodge 2500 Laramie 4x4 Megacab Cummins
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09-25-2017, 06:38 PM
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#9
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New Member
1987 32' Excella
Arvada
, Colorado
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 3
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Hi
It looks like you were plugged into an extension cord with a molded, factory end. You might investigate the male end as it looks like an aftermarket cord cap whose terminal screws can loosen with time causing arcing and heat.
Mike
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09-26-2017, 05:09 AM
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#10
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2 Rivet Member
1973 31' Sovereign
Austin
, Texas
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vswingfield
Me too.
Been there, done that. Twice.
I was plugging in directly without an adapter, the male plug was just corroded. The corrosion creates resistance which generates heat. (Running electric current through wires or elements with high resistance is how electric heaters, ovens, water heaters, and toasters work.)
When you put one on, make sure you cut off any wires in the cord that are also corroded. You may have to shorten the cord a few inches, but you want all clean connections.
A brand new cord would be better, but replacing the male plug is much easier. At least on my Excella.
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Do I need to drill the rivets and remove this panel to replace cord? When I replaced male end after this happened the first time I noticed wire seemed old and brittle.
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09-26-2017, 09:22 AM
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#11
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Half a Rivet Short
2017 30' Classic
2022 Interstate 24X
Carlisle
, Pennsylvania
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 15,684
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AustinAir
Do I need to drill the rivets and remove this panel to replace cord? When I replaced male end after this happened the first time I noticed wire seemed old and brittle. Attachment 295571Attachment 295572
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Hi
The plastic / rubber insulation on a cord can "wear out". If it is starting to get very stiff, it likely is getting close to cracking. If the internal insulation cracks, the result can be pretty dramatic (and stinky ...). Replacing an older cord that is getting brittle is indeed a good idea.
Bob
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09-26-2017, 05:48 PM
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#12
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Rivet Master
1983 34' Excella
1967 24' Tradewind
Little Rock
, Arkansas
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 3,825
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AustinAir
Do I need to drill the rivets and remove this panel to replace cord?
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That probably wouldn't do you any good. You need to find where the cord connects to the inside wiring. It will be somewhere inside the unit above floor level. How it connects depends on the floor plan and year of your trailer.
You need to disconnect the cord from its connection to the "hard wiring" of the trailer. Once it is disconnected, securely connect a fish tape and pull it out through the grommet you can see in that panel. Then use the fish tape to pull the new cord back in and connect back up.
In my 1983 Excella, there is a junction box a few inches above the floor, deep in the corner formed by the curve of the wall and the sideways bed. In that tiny little space where there's not enough room for a six year old to work. Even with the bed removed, not an insignificant job, it would still be cramped to access due to the bed foundation/storage. Doable, but working at about a 70° angle to the box.
When I finally make myself replace the cord, I plan to convert to one of the marine connectors that use a hard-wired outlet and a removable cord, like a Furrion or Marinco. There are others, these are some of the better known ones. Another step (or two) up on the install difficulty, but after, everything inside and hard to reach would be hard-wired and everything prone to wearing out and needing replacement would be outside.
__________________
Vaughan
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09-26-2017, 05:59 PM
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#13
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2 Rivet Member
1973 31' Sovereign
Austin
, Texas
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 87
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Thanks
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