Which Victron smart shunt model and necessary components?

[koberudy]

We have 2 SOK 206AH LIFEPO4 batteries in a closet of our house waiting to be installed under the front queen bed of our 2023 FC23fb, in March at the dealership. We want that install to include the Victron smart shunt for monitoring the battery bank activity. I first thought to get the 712 model which includes the hardwired little round display to be mounted somewhere. My wife suggested we get the cheaper model that just uses the app on your phone since that's mainly how we'd view it anyway, and eliminate routing a wire and cutting a hole. That sounds fine to me but delving a little further we read the Bluetooth alone, and other wireless options, don't always work so well, often interfere with other signals, and require resetting everything when it fails to keep updating---unless you add some other component (s) to compensate for this communication between devices problem? So what is the scoop on that and does that limitation apply to the "wired" 712 model too? I need to know what to buy to take to the dealership for the install. Any guidance here would be great.

[SallyForth]

Originally Posted by koberudy

I first thought to get the 712 model which includes the hardwired little round display to be mounted somewhere. My wife suggested we get the cheaper model that just uses the app on your phone since that's mainly how we'd view it anyway, and eliminate routing a wire and cutting a hole.

I installed a Victron smart shunt in the front external locker of our 2023 International FB Twin along with 400ah of Battle Born batteries, a Victron Lynx distributor, a Victron MultiPlus 12/3000/120, a Victron Orion DC to DC Charger, and a Victron Blue Smart Solar Charger. Everything is networked and reporting via Bluetooth. There are other devices reporting temperatures, tire pressures and Propane Tank Levels — also using Bluetooth.

The Smart Shunt is the weakest Bluetooth signal. I cannot always read it from within the tow vehicle, but I can always read it if I am in the trailer or within ten feet of it.

[koberudy]

OP here, what is the bare minimum equipment/components that I'll need to have the batteries under the bed and the Victron monitor?

[ITSNO60]

It is true the the Smartshunt Bluetooth range is very short but you won't lose anything or have to reset anything, you just need to walk closer then it will connect. I decided against the 712 for the reasons you stated, running wire and making a hole. Unless you are a boondocking fanatical geek who has to have the display visible all the time (not saying there's anything wrong with that ) you will be happy with the Smartshunt.

[ROBERT CROSS]

Our 'smart phone' is still in the 3rd semester of second grade. I have the display velcro'd on the wall and use the Maclap for the remote visual.

Bob
🇺🇸

[koberudy]

Originally Posted by ITSNO60

It is true the the Smartshunt Bluetooth range is very short but you won't lose anything or have to reset anything, you just need to walk closer then it will connect. I decided against the 712 for the reasons you stated, running wire and making a hole. Unless you are a boondocking fanatical geek who has to have the display visible all the time (not saying there's anything wrong with that ) you will be happy with the Smartshunt.

Thanks for both replies, this puts my mind at ease to just go with the wireless option.

[koberudy]

3 replies, didn't see Bob's, thanks

[richard5933]

I guess I see this the other way - the little round display is much easier and user friendly.

Especially first thing in the morning, it's so much easier to take a quick glance at the display to see how much battery is left than it is to even find my phone. I always know where the display is and never have to worry about my phone deciding it's time for an update to the app (which inevitably happens at the time you most need to get the information, like when your other half wants to know if there's enough battery left to turn on the furnace...)

My 712 also has the Bluetooth, so I can use the app if I want. Sometimes it's nicer to use since it can graphically display the information. But, when I just want a quick look at the remaining battery life I'll choose the display over the app 9 out of 10 times.

[Silvr_Bullet]

Originally Posted by ITSNO60

It is true the the Smartshunt Bluetooth range is very short but you won't lose anything or have to reset anything, you just need to walk closer then it will connect. I decided against the 712 for the reasons you stated, running wire and making a hole. Unless you are a boondocking fanatical geek who has to have the display visible all the time (not saying there's anything wrong with that[emoji4] ) you will be happy with the Smartshunt.

Todays Smart Phones can handle many tasks with no interference to apps running simultaneously, ie: phone functions, navigation, TPMS, SmartShunt, etc.
All good reasons to have my phone handy and close by, and did I mention reference functions. I am happy with my SmartShunt displayed and accessible on my phone screen, despite short distance reception stated by some. I agree w. ITSN60

[trsvax]

I have the bluetooth version also. I have not tried the wired one but I suspect in most cases the bluetooth version has longer range than the wired one.

I have lots of bluetooth monitoring device and they seem to work fine. I think Bluetooth LE solved many of the old problems.

[ITSNO60]

Just this morning I received an email from "InvertersrRUs", they are having a sale on all their open box, used returns and cosmetically damaged shunts, chargers and inverters. Even some cords down at the bottom.
https://invertersrus.com/victron-ene...aroQ%3D.Y7SUVp

[uncle_bob]

Hi

There's actually even more choices:

1) You can get the wired only version with just the display

2) You can get the bluetooth version with no display at all

3) You can get the "everything" version with both bluetooth and the display.

Needless to say, the one with all the features ( the 712 ) is also the most expensive. I happen to like having a display. It's saved me ( on this or that ) multiple times.

Bob

[waninae39]

I use TWO shunts as i have two different make/models of LION batteries
https://www.victronenergy.com/batter...-battery-shunt
Victron has 3 sizes; 500A, 1000A, 2000A
i use the 500a on a 1x 100AH lion battery
and the 1000a with my 3x 200AH batteries

i use the Cerbo GX to monitor them
https://www.victronenergy.com/panel-...oring/cerbo-gx

The batteries all get connected through their LYNX distribution bars

[vanderwielen]

Originally Posted by koberudy

OP here, what is the bare minimum equipment/components that I'll need to have the batteries under the bed and the Victron monitor?

Your 23FB will be able to charge your batteries since they have the charging profile and ability to do so.

Be sure to reconfigure your solar charger and consider a DC to DC charger for connection via your 7 pin connector.

WARNING: there are those who will say that the DC to DC isn't necessary. It is. (Electrical Engineer here)

[Silvr_Bullet]

Originally Posted by vanderwielen

Your 23FB will be able to charge your batteries since they have the charging profile and ability to do so.



Be sure to reconfigure your solar charger and consider a DC to DC charger for connection via your 7 pin connector.



WARNING: there are those who will say that the DC to DC isn't necessary. It is. (Electrical Engineer here)

Relying on your Engineering experience. How about removing the fuse in the tow vehicle that charges house battery via 7 way. Thanks

[tjdonahoe]

Victron smart. Using I
Phone to monitor the batteries

[vanderwielen]

Originally Posted by Silvr_Bullet

Relying on your Engineering experience. How about removing the fuse in the tow vehicle that charges house battery via 7 way. Thanks

that accomplishes nothing. the issue is simply that the losses of the IR drop over the 'too small' wire at the current necessary to provide adequate charge is too great. Even if you had an infinitely large wire, with no losses, the charge voltage from the alternator would only charge a lithium to about 70%.

A DC to DC charger will take the voltage, down to about 8 volts, at about 15 amps and convert it to the neccesary voltage and charging profile to add about 120-140 watts per hour.

[Kawboy01]

We.upgraded our AGMs to two SOK206AH under the bed of our 21GT27FBQ. I ditched the original Victron display for the solar and got the BT dongle. Better info on the app and for over 2 years no issues. We also during the upgrade added the Victron BT shunt. Excellent addition and neither one has had connection problem. The shunt does have a short range but not an issue for us. We also added a Renogy 20amp DC2DC which has integrated well with my build. Next up is an inverter upgrade.

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by vanderwielen

WARNING: there are those who will say that the DC to DC isn't necessary. It is. (Electrical Engineer here)

Blanket statements?...this will be our 6th Season without a DC>DC converter, SFSG. Granted it won't reach 100% but it duz charge.

POI We do have a Hd 200a alternator on the TV.

(old Bucklenuster here.)

Bob
����

[Silvr_Bullet]

Originally Posted by vanderwielen

that accomplishes nothing. the issue is simply that the losses of the IR drop over the 'too small' wire at the current necessary to provide adequate charge is too great. Even if you had an infinitely large wire, with no losses, the charge voltage from the alternator would only charge a lithium to about 70%.



A DC to DC charger will take the voltage, down to about 8 volts, at about 15 amps and convert it to the neccesary voltage and charging profile to add about 120-140 watts per hour.

Am I understanding that what you have written assumes I want some charging while driving / or connected to the 7 way? I do not, I don’t want any charging in those configurations. So, my question is, when the fuse in the tow vehicle that provides charging to the Airstream battery is removed, is this a way to circumvent issues that arise ie back feeding of the house Lithium battery. Thanks