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Old 12-16-2018, 07:32 AM   #21
Half a Rivet Short
 
2017 30' Classic
2022 Interstate 24X
Carlisle , Pennsylvania
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Borth View Post
.....

While all of this was going on I bought the PD 4655VL Converter, the EMS-PT30X Portable Battery Monitor and a surge protector from Best Converter (Randy). I will install these when I get to my destination in Florida in early January.

....
Hi

When you go to put this stuff in, there will *always* be questions. That's just the way this stuff goes. It's not rocket science, but it's not all obvious.

The reason you buy from somebody (= Randy) who knows this stuff is so you can ask them questions. Having a phone number ( 888-828-1893) to call *is* an important part of all this. Buying from "Uncle Bob's Barn of Mongolia" would not have given you this ability.

So keep the phone number (888-828-1893 ) handy for whenever you do the install

Bob
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Old 12-19-2018, 10:33 AM   #22
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KW , Ontario
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Originally Posted by Chris Borth View Post
I tried to charge my batteries by using an 8 amp charger. I hooked it up for 6 hours a day for 3 days and wound up with a voltage reading of 11.4 volts on each battery. I called Lifeline company and they (Jim) told me that I was probably not hitting them hard enough. I took them out of the AS and to a friend who runs a foreign car repair company He charged each battery for several hours with a commercial 30 amp charger. They now read 12.9 volts. All is well, phew!

While all of this was going on I bought the PD 4655VL Converter, the EMS-PT30X Portable Battery Monitor and a surge protector from Best Converter (Randy). I will install these when I get to my destination in Florida in early January.

Thanks to all who contributed to this this thread. I learned a lot.
Best to get familiar with the specs of the battery
http://2cw8eb1vmmgg3g5i7jzt6upo.wpen...cal-Manual.pdf

Take a look a section 5.4 and 5.5 and the attached tables. Make sure your charger can achieve these voltages and if not I would advise you upgrade yours. I'm sure Randy can hook you up.

Most likely with the state of your battery it would benefit from the conditioning process described in section 5.5.

The addition of battery monitor is also a huge plus as it will tell you instantly what you are drawing and give you history as well. You won't be wasting your money getting one.

Good luck.
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Old 12-19-2018, 01:06 PM   #23
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You should be fine with that. Dave the owner of Lifeline likes that Boondocker and recommends it often. It will be set correct right out of the box but you can tweak it if you need to.
That conditioning/equalization procedure should rarely be needed but the Boondocker CL models can be adjusted to the exact voltage based on this chart gator posted.
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Old 12-19-2018, 08:59 PM   #24
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2002 34' Classic S/O
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That does eliminate the parasitic drain on your batteries but not prevent the self discharge of ~15% per month on flooded batteries. A little less for AGM. If you donít have AC or solar where you store your Airstream I recommend you continue this or bring the batteries home to maintain them.
Those with an AC source and a modern 4 stage converter can leave it plugged in year round but I wound not recommend it with the stock single stage Parallax converter that does not have a float/storage mode or desulfation cycle. It will over charge them almost guaranteed.



Just a comment about your approx 15% self discharge on flooded batteries: As a MI snowbird who is not in MI 7-8 months per year for 10 years (Oct-May) I leave my second vehicle in the garage with only the negative cable disconnected. It ALWAYS lights off within 3-4 seconds of starter action (no StaBil used at all) when I get home in May, and it runs fine after sitting for the better part of a year as well. Nothing special in the battery department just a Walmart Everstart MAXX because of its 5 year warranty. It gets to be -20 Fahrenheit during that time on several occasions (or more than several). But that is just my experience with self discharge. I have never measured the voltage prior to starting after the 7-8 months of inactivity, but cranking speed seems normal.
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Old 12-19-2018, 09:29 PM   #25
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Just a comment about your approx 15% self discharge on flooded batteries: As a MI snowbird who is not in MI 7-8 months per year for 10 years (Oct-May) I leave my second vehicle in the garage with only the negative cable disconnected. It ALWAYS lights off within 3-4 seconds of starter action (no StaBil used at all) when I get home in May, and it runs fine after sitting for the better part of a year as well. Nothing special in the battery department just a Walmart Everstart MAXX because of its 5 year warranty. It gets to be -20 Fahrenheit during that time on several occasions (or more than several). But that is just my experience with self discharge. I have never measured the voltage prior to starting after the 7-8 months of inactivity, but cranking speed seems normal.
Oh my Bartz, Not only do I agree because I lived in that climate, it's probably true farther north too. If we were to post that reality 5-10 years ago, manual and white paper diggers would be on us like hawks pointing to paragraph and page number where battery manufacture experts say that 10-15% per month. Just read it last week in fact. Also, 3-4 for lithium is probably a stretch. I certainly didn't make it up but I agree with you man. No doubt there has to be some though.
I will say I'm a fan of sta-bil though and has nothing to do with the climate. Here in the south our gas can gunk to varnish like anywhere else. If I'm buffaloed on that, I'll own it but my small engines like it.
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Old 12-20-2018, 06:47 AM   #26
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Hi

One does wonder just why the data sheets show a number as high as 15% per month. Since it's on a Trojan data sheet and everybody loves Trojan, there must be some weird reason. The twice a day full cycle world of golf carts may have something to do with it.

Anybody who has ever measured something that high (or even a low 10% per month), please raise your hand ...... hmmm .... that's about what I thought ....

====

If you set up a battery charge system to put ....errr.... 18V on your RV electrical system to rev up the batteries ....yikes. They are not the only thing attached to those wires. Get up to that sort of voltage and you likely will start doing damage to other systems in the RV. Anything over about 15V is going past the typical max ratings. If your battery is at -40 degrees, don't bother with the super duper 18V charge voltage.


Bob
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