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Old 09-24-2024, 09:11 PM   #1
MSL
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2019 22' Sport
Sharon , Massachusetts
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WFCO Putting Out High Voltage

2019 Sport 22 with SeeLevel II reading 15.3 volts. I just happened to check voltage and saw it was 15.3. I shut breaker to converter, voltage was 13.2. Back to 15.3 when breaker turned back on. I have a single factory solar panel. It's after 11 pm so I'm leaving breaker off for the night so I don't fry the batteries (2 AGMs) and will disconnect batteries and check converter output in the morning. I'm camping in Newfoundland but on my way back to Massachusetts; camping a few more nights. Does high converter output mean bad converter? Anything I can do temporarily to limp home? I have a battery charger with me ... thinking to use that at campgrounds with converter breaker off.
I appreciate any help.
Mark
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Old 09-25-2024, 05:49 AM   #2
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Yeah, something definitely wrong there. Most likely bad converter, but hopefully others will chime in.

I like your plan to keep the converter off to protect the batteries. Between solar, the tow vehicle, and using the battery charger when a/c power is available, you should be able to keep the batteries at a reasonably good capacity.

How is weather in Newfoundland this time of year? Are you coming back via ferry or driving the Trans-Lab highway?
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Old 09-26-2024, 07:12 AM   #3
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Thanks for the thoughts

Quote:
Originally Posted by BikeCamper View Post
Yeah, something definitely wrong there. Most likely bad converter, but hopefully others will chime in.

I like your plan to keep the converter off to protect the batteries. Between solar, the tow vehicle, and using the battery charger when a/c power is available, you should be able to keep the batteries at a reasonably good capacity.

How is weather in Newfoundland this time of year? Are you coming back via ferry or driving the Trans-Lab highway?
We had a fair amount of rain and drizzle/fog, but had many nice days as well. Waiting to board ferry now. It was a great 2 1/2 weeks.
I spoke with WFCO. They gave me a test to do but I'm waiting until I get home, but I'm pretty convinced it's the converter. The fix is a PC board replacement which will also make it lithium compatible.
Thanks again,
Mark
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Old 09-26-2024, 03:58 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MSL View Post
We had a fair amount of rain and drizzle/fog, but had many nice days as well. Waiting to board ferry now. It was a great 2 1/2 weeks.
I spoke with WFCO. They gave me a test to do but I'm waiting until I get home, but I'm pretty convinced it's the converter. The fix is a PC board replacement which will also make it lithium compatible.
Thanks again,
Mark
If that board replacement "which will also make it lithium compatible" makes it AD (Auto-Detect) I would just replace it with a different brand converter. I've heard of to many issues with AD and also poor performance with WFCO.
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Old 09-26-2024, 06:19 PM   #5
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Hi

When our WFCO fried it went to around 20V on the 12V bus. We had to replace a lot of LED lights as a result.

You have a breaker between the battery and the converter. If it pops open, the batteries may be ok. If it stays closed, batteries at 15 to 16 V for a while is likely to cause damage.

Bob
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Old 09-27-2024, 11:05 AM   #6
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The converter on our Sport 22 began putting out almost 17v dc. It boiled the lead acid battery, burnt out a running light, and I think it also ruined fridge control module. The battery monitor in the bathroom never displayed more than 13v tho.. not sure why. I took the 17v reading from direct line from battery to fridge when I was troubleshooting why fridge wouldn’t switch to propane. There was barely 1v detectable at propane solenoid, thus gas flow was sporadic. I replaced just the WFCO converter assembly, purchased from Amazon for about $200 and it took roughly 20 minutes to swap out. The replacement WFCO converters have been updated to handle lithium batteries.
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Old 09-27-2024, 12:15 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wazbro View Post
If that board replacement "which will also make it lithium compatible" makes it AD (Auto-Detect) I would just replace it with a different brand converter. I've heard of to many issues with AD and also poor performance with WFCO.
I never pass up an opportunity to bash the WFCO AD. It was standard in 2023 and it took a whole lot of messing around to get it to detect lithium. Others have said that it reverted to lead acid after a while for them. It also only delivered around 18A when I got it running. I replaced it with a Victron Phoenix, but in any case check and I'd go with something else. I don't think AS uses it in their latest models.
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Old 09-27-2024, 01:17 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MSL View Post
We had a fair amount of rain and drizzle/fog, but had many nice days as well. Waiting to board ferry now. It was a great 2 1/2 weeks.
I spoke with WFCO. They gave me a test to do but I'm waiting until I get home, but I'm pretty convinced it's the converter. The fix is a PC board replacement which will also make it lithium compatible.
Thanks again,
Mark
Sounds like you had a good time overall (despite the converter.). That’s a trip we’re hoping to make, too, but via the TransLab Hwy in one direction, then ferry back. Did you happen to visit Gros Morne Natl Park? If so, any intel for travel trailers?

As for the WFCO converter, I echo the advice already offered here: If your testing back home points to the converter, consider upgrading to another make/model.
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Old 09-28-2024, 07:01 AM   #9
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What was Fridge Fix

Quote:
Originally Posted by davincent View Post
The converter on our Sport 22 began putting out almost 17v dc. It boiled the lead acid battery, burnt out a running light, and I think it also ruined fridge control module. The battery monitor in the bathroom never displayed more than 13v tho.. not sure why. I took the 17v reading from direct line from battery to fridge when I was troubleshooting why fridge wouldn’t switch to propane. There was barely 1v detectable at propane solenoid, thus gas flow was sporadic. I replaced just the WFCO converter assembly, purchased from Amazon for about $200 and it took roughly 20 minutes to swap out. The replacement WFCO converters have been updated to handle lithium batteries.
My fridge also will not run on propane now. I believe this is the only device affected by the high voltage; my water heater and furnace seem to be working properly. What was the fix for your fridge?
Thanks in advance, Mark
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Old 09-28-2024, 07:13 AM   #10
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What WFCO Converter Alternative

I don't know how long my WFCO was putting out the high voltage; I think a few hours maybe, so I'm not yet sure if my batteries suffered. I know they were at about 12.4 volts yesterday evening after driving 11 hours (Ford Ranger) with the fridge on battery with no solar input (rainy, cloudy day).

I like the idea of replacing the assy WFCO offers, but I'm concerned with the reliability comments here. Also, the tech guy at WFCO mentioned, "they last about 5 years", which seemed kind of odd and disappointing to me for an electronic device.

Maybe I'll end up replacing the WFCO assy to get me going for a while then change the converter to another brand. If the main problem with their AD is not detecting lithium, that's not a problem for me; I have AGMs and don't see myself converting to lithium anytime soon.

Anyway, what other brand converters have you guys switched to, and how much of a job was the replacement? Cabinet fit, wire lengths, etc???

Thanks in advance, Mark
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Old 09-28-2024, 10:58 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MSL View Post
Anyway, what other brand converters have you guys switched to, and how much of a job was the replacement? Cabinet fit, wire lengths, etc???

Thanks in advance, Mark
I can only speak for our 25' GT, so layout might be different with yours. With our trailer I pretty much standardized on Victron so everything plays together and I can monitor and make changes in their Bluetooth app. I have the Victron Phoenix 50A which is roughly 2x the cost of others, but I like that I know what the charger is doing. It's a simple change in the setting to change the battery type if you go to lithium in the future. Victron is very solid and I hope it lasts more than 5 years.

It didn't fit in the slot for the charger so I had to do a bit of rewiring and I mounted it on the cabinet wall. There is a 30A version which is a little cheaper and is likely adequate for most people.
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Old 09-28-2024, 11:43 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MSL View Post
...


Maybe I'll end up replacing the WFCO assy to get me going for a while then change the converter to another brand. If the main problem with their AD is not detecting lithium, that's not a problem for me; I have AGMs and don't see myself converting to lithium anytime soon.

Anyway, what other brand converters have you guys switched to, and how much of a job was the replacement? Cabinet fit, wire lengths, etc???

Thanks in advance, Mark

Contact Randy at Best Converter. He will walk you through the options available for your trailer. He suggested, and I tried, a Boondocker model but I thought the fan ran too much and went with a Progressive Designs unit like the one I used in my Safari when I replaced the working 2-stage unit.
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Old 09-28-2024, 12:52 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MSL View Post
My fridge also will not run on propane now. I believe this is the only device affected by the high voltage; my water heater and furnace seem to be working properly. What was the fix for your fridge?
Thanks in advance, Mark
My fix for the fridge was a new one. The original fridge was a Dometic RM8505, and a new control module isn’t available anymore, not even from Dinosaur Electronics. I purchased a Isotherm Cruise 100 from West Marine and ordered it from there because they had free shipping to local store. It is a 12/24v compressor style fridge and it fit into the existing space, I only had to put a filler piece at top of unit, below the counter top. We don’t generally boon dock and usually bring a cooler along, so this works for us.
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Old 10-06-2024, 06:43 PM   #14
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Is the Installation Thies Easy?

Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffKim View Post
I can only speak for our 25' GT, so layout might be different with yours. With our trailer I pretty much standardized on Victron so everything plays together and I can monitor and make changes in their Bluetooth app. I have the Victron Phoenix 50A which is roughly 2x the cost of others, but I like that I know what the charger is doing. It's a simple change in the setting to change the battery type if you go to lithium in the future. Victron is very solid and I hope it lasts more than 5 years.

It didn't fit in the slot for the charger so I had to do a bit of rewiring and I mounted it on the cabinet wall. There is a 30A version which is a little cheaper and is likely adequate for most people.
So, is installing the Victron unit as easy as removing the WFCO portion, finding a place for the Victron, connecting the two 12 volts wires, connecting the power and ground for the Victron?

With the WFCO I could use the 12 volts lights, etc. even when the battery was removed from the trailer. Will the Victron work similarly?

Thanks in advance,

Mark
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Old 10-06-2024, 08:02 PM   #15
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The plug and play solution is to go with a Progressive Dynamics converter. They have a 60A unit that replaced my 55A WFCO on my 27' trailer. I'm sure they'll have something for you.

WFCO has very responsive customer service, unfortunately, that doesn't improve the quality of their lousy product. I would give Best Converter a call and they'll help you out.
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Old 10-14-2024, 10:49 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MSL View Post
So, is installing the Victron unit as easy as removing the WFCO portion, finding a place for the Victron, connecting the two 12 volts wires, connecting the power and ground for the Victron?

With the WFCO I could use the 12 volts lights, etc. even when the battery was removed from the trailer. Will the Victron work similarly?

Thanks in advance,

Mark
Yes, that's about it. I haven't had any issues with heat, but it should be in a location that has adequate air circulation.

Yes, the charger supplies the DC side of the system, no batteries required.
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Old 10-14-2024, 10:52 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Merlintiaga View Post
The plug and play solution is to go with a Progressive Dynamics converter. They have a 60A unit that replaced my 55A WFCO on my 27' trailer. I'm sure they'll have something for you.

WFCO has very responsive customer service, unfortunately, that doesn't improve the quality of their lousy product. I would give Best Converter a call and they'll help you out.
Ours is wired to a 50A breaker in the bus bar, so 60A might trip it and I'd worry a bit about the wiring potentially handling 60A. But then it's working for you.
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