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Old 01-09-2025, 11:47 PM   #1
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Wanted: Install photos from Parallax 8355 to PD4655VL (7355)

Hello all,

God willing tomorrow I am going to attempt to change my converter in my 2016 27FB.

Currently what is in there is a Parallax Model 8355 55 amp converter.

I bought a new lithium ready, (updating batteries as well) converter from Best Converters.

They sent me a PD4655VL with a remote pendant.

They told me to use the instructions for a Progressive Dynamics 7355.

I have the instructions, but given all of that I was wondering if anyone did a similar install and took pictures along the way.

If so, if you could post them with the steps that would be great!

Thank you!
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Old 01-10-2025, 04:40 PM   #2
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If you are running lithium, the pendant is useless as you are charging at a constant voltage and doing the bulk, absorption, maintenance voltages used with lead acid and AGM.

Unplug the shore power cord, and disconnect the batteries

I assume it is in a metal "box" and removal is the hot/neutral/ground from the 120v side and the ground and hot for the 12 volt output.

an 8300 series is a complete power center and a 8355 is the power center with a 55 amp converter. Once the wires are disconnected, you remove four screws and slide the metal box out with the converter in it. I have done this twice on older 7300 power centers, its the same on yours.

Remove the four screws that hold the lower part of the front, louvered panel, undo the plastic latch and remove all of the front. Take two screws out that hold the plate that surrounds the black 120v circuit breakers. Remove the wires, after taking pics, and then remove the four screws that hold the lower metal box in place, two on each side. Slide out the converter.

The fuse panel is retained with two 5/16 hex head screws thru it. Remove the screws so the panel floats loose, and use a open end wrench to hold the metal blocks that the wires are retained in and turn the screws to get the wires loose. This keeps you from putting pressure on the printed circuit (for every action there is an opposite and equal reaction, wrench against screwdriver, no stress on the PC board.

Charles
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Old 01-13-2025, 01:48 PM   #3
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Parallax 8355 to PD4655VL (7355)

I did the same conversion right after we bought our 2016 27FB IS (same year as yours). The pictures above are identical to my setup.

It was an easy conversion that won't cook your batteries if you leave it plugged in.

Sorry, I don't have any pictures.
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Old 01-14-2025, 10:05 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F250 View Post
Hello all,

God willing tomorrow I am going to attempt to change my converter in my 2016 27FB.

Currently what is in there is a Parallax Model 8355 55 amp converter.

I bought a new lithium ready, (updating batteries as well) converter from Best Converters.

They sent me a PD4655VL with a remote pendant.

They told me to use the instructions for a Progressive Dynamics 7355.

Thank you!

I have a 2016 and just upgraded to lithium. I called Parallax and they sold me a tiny little module — for $50 — that installed in under ten minutes in my existing converter/powercenter. Very very very easy and cheap!

I would give them a call before you do a full replacement. Might save you hours and hundreds!
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Old 01-14-2025, 10:49 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thiel View Post
I have a 2016 and just upgraded to lithium. I called Parallax and they sold me a tiny little module — for $50 — that installed in under ten minutes in my existing converter/powercenter. Very very very easy and cheap!

I would give them a call before you do a full replacement. Might save you hours and hundreds!
Would you happen to have a contact name/# for the individual you spoke with at Parallax?
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Old 01-15-2025, 10:51 AM   #6
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Would you happen to have a contact name/# for the individual you spoke with at Parallax?
I called the number listed on their site: 1-800-443-4859

The person who answered the phone said they were one of the engineers. I get the sense it is a VERY small company.

This is the part I used. Literally a five minute install:

https://www.boatandrvaccessories.com...harging-module
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Old 01-16-2025, 11:05 PM   #7
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Thank you all. I do have 3 more questions. Here are three pictures.

1. What is the blinking green light to the right of the white wire in one photo and in between the two words "MODE" in the other?

2. What is the blue button for?

I believe I have manually set the voltage setting to Lithium Ion (LI) using the black plastic push on jumper on the blue circuit panel of the convertor.

3. Was it correct to use the included 4 wire jumper and connect the two circuit boards?

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Old 01-17-2025, 09:54 PM   #8
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First off: I see you have the jumper in the LI position and not the WIZ position. According to the last line of the screen shot below, (p.6 of the link, about the middle of the page) the button should not be operative in the LI position.

If you are not currently using Lithium batteries, and are using Lead Acid/AGM then move the jumper to the WIZ position and let the Wizard do its thing to vary the voltage as it sees best. The button will allow you to force the converter to BOOST mode if you are trying to rush the charging of a battery due to using a generator with limited run time or other 120V AC power usage constraints.

Useful links

https://www.progressivedyn.com/wp-co...ips-PD4600.pdf

https://www.progressivedyn.com/wp-co.../4600_test.pdf


The top of the last page (p.6) of this Operating manual for the 4600 series explains the light and the button.

https://www.progressivedyn.com/wp-co...ers-manual.pdf


These pages may help you understand the Wizard better.
https://www.progressivedyn.com/charg...charge-profile

https://www.progressivedyn.com/charg...echarge-curves


This is what the converter does when in the WIZ mode.
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Old 01-17-2025, 10:22 PM   #9
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May I make a suggestion on the 12v wires, where they attach to the terminal strip. I tried stuffing them under the small square hold down plates and found that no matter how careful you are, you get flayed strands, which is a real problem. I suggest using U spade terminals crimped onto the wires and placed UNDER the square hold down plates under the screws. Much neater and better in the end. See the attachments.

First I tried the bare wires. Later removed the bare wires and found them messed up and flayed strands. Then I installed ferrules and found it forced the screws off center and I didn't like this side load stress on them. Then I bought the U spades and found some were too wide and others were perfect, and then with the correct spades, all was good.

Charles
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Old 01-17-2025, 10:36 PM   #10
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If you have a ground bar for the 12v grounds behind the panel, you might look at it. If the wires are as ugly as mine were, you might want to consider re-doing them. I bought a ferrule tool and kit, ended up buying separate, non-insulated ferrules to get longer ones, and completely re-doing the ground bar. Not an Airstream but probably similar.

I'm a huge fan of ferrules for fine stranded wire. Kits were from Amazon for $30 or so, and the long ferrules were from Ferrules Direct. uninsulated ferrules HERE, and long insulated ones HERE.

Pics tell the story.

Charles
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Old 01-18-2025, 12:03 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CharlesinGA View Post
First off: I see you have the jumper in the LI position and not the WIZ position. According to the last line of the screen shot below, (p.6 of the link, about the middle of the page) the button should not be operative in the LI position.

If you are not currently using Lithium batteries, and are using Lead Acid/AGM then move the jumper to the WIZ position and let the Wizard do its thing to vary the voltage as it sees best. The button will allow you to force the converter to BOOST mode if you are trying to rush the charging of a battery due to using a generator with limited run time or other 120V AC power usage constraints.

Useful links

https://www.progressivedyn.com/wp-co...ips-PD4600.pdf

https://www.progressivedyn.com/wp-co.../4600_test.pdf


The top of the last page (p.6) of this Operating manual for the 4600 series explains the light and the button.

https://www.progressivedyn.com/wp-co...ers-manual.pdf


These pages may help you understand the Wizard better.
https://www.progressivedyn.com/charg...charge-profile

https://www.progressivedyn.com/charg...echarge-curves


This is what the converter does when in the WIZ mode.
Thanks Charles, I did change out my two Interstate Group 24 Deep Cycle Lead Acid batteries to two Epoch Group 24 Lithium batteries the same day I changed the converter. So does that take away the functionality of the button, etc? Click image for larger version

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Old 01-18-2025, 10:35 AM   #12
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According to what I read, yes it would, as the converter goes to a single constant voltage in the Li mode. I would just leave it as is, its not hurting anything.

I am by no means a lithium battery or systems expert, however I do know that lithium batteries have a LOT of electrical "push" if you will, much more so that lead acid. This creates an immense fire hazard and the batteries need to be properly fused, and in many if not most cases, the cables need to be replaced with heavier cables with better crimping on the terminals. Fusing for Li batteries means type T fuses and holders, right at the batteries. type T fuses have the capability to interrupt the flow of high amounts of current, that lesser fuses do not. With a normal fuse, the link in the fuse simply blows, but with a Li battery, the fuse blows and the metal becomes a molten vapor inside the fuse and continues to conduct current. Many people use ANL fuses with lithium batteries, but they do not have a high enough interrupt rating.





The class T fuse has a design that allows it to completely interrupt the flow of current. This is necessary in the event of a short downstream from the battery.



The Escape trailer forum has had a lot of discussion about this and Lithium battery installations. Its a RVLife forum and you can use your same login as here. Search for posts by tdf-texas, such as in THIS thread.

Charles
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Old 01-18-2025, 12:17 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CharlesinGA View Post
According to what I read, yes it would, as the converter goes to a single constant voltage in the Li mode. I would just leave it as is, its not hurting anything.

I am by no means a lithium battery or systems expert, however I do know that lithium batteries have a LOT of electrical "push" if you will, much more so that lead acid. This creates an immense fire hazard and the batteries need to be properly fused, and in many if not most cases, the cables need to be replaced with heavier cables with better crimping on the terminals. Fusing for Li batteries means type T fuses and holders, right at the batteries. type T fuses have the capability to interrupt the flow of high amounts of current, that lesser fuses do not. With a normal fuse, the link in the fuse simply blows, but with a Li battery, the fuse blows and the metal becomes a molten vapor inside the fuse and continues to conduct current. Many people use ANL fuses with lithium batteries, but they do not have a high enough interrupt rating.





The class T fuse has a design that allows it to completely interrupt the flow of current. This is necessary in the event of a short downstream from the battery.



The Escape trailer forum has had a lot of discussion about this and Lithium battery installations. Its a RVLife forum and you can use your same login as here. Search for posts by tdf-texas, such as in THIS thread.

Charles
Thanks for the info, but I am not sure what fuse you're are referring to. One in the panel/convertor, a new one installed near the batteries, replacing an existing one somewhere else? Please let me know. Thx!
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Old 01-18-2025, 09:20 PM   #14
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The batteries need to have a fuse installed as close as possible to the battery itself. If you have a cable rub and short, you gotta major problem on your hands, this is like a blow torch starting a fire vs a match.

Do some research on lithium battery installations and SYSTEMS. Its a lot more than dropping in a couple of batteries.

Charles
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Old 01-19-2025, 12:32 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CharlesinGA View Post
I am by no means a lithium battery or systems expert
OK
Quote:
however I do know that lithium batteries have a LOT of electrical "push" if you will, much more so that lead acid.
If you're referring to the output current, that may be true, depending on exactly what you're comparing them to. It's controlled by the battery's BMS, unlike lead acid batteries that have no control circuitry.

Quote:
This creates an immense fire hazard
ALL electrical systems can be a fire hazard if they're not properly designed and installed. Lithium battery systems are not special in that regard. You could make your point about building the system properly without using hyperbolic scare tactics.

Quote:
the batteries need to be properly fused
ALL batteries should be properly fused; it doesn't matter what type.

Quote:
in many if not most cases, the cables need to be replaced with heavier cables with better crimping on the terminals.
Battery cables should be properly sized for the ampacity of the battery, which you can determine from a a wire ampacity chart. This is required for ALL types of batteries. If you're replacing lead-acid batteries with lithium batteries with the same Amp-hour rating, the existing cables are fine size-wise, unless they're old and/or corroded. If you're doing an upgrade on an older system that's been exposed to the elements, it's a good idea to replace the cables in case they may have corrosion issues which are not visible. It's not necessary to go any larger if the batteries are comparable, but it does no harm to oversize the cables. Proper crimping is required, regardless of the battery type.

Quote:
Fusing for Li batteries means type T fuses and holders, right at the batteries. type T fuses have the capability to interrupt the flow of high amounts of current, that lesser fuses do not. With a normal fuse, the link in the fuse simply blows, but with a Li battery, the fuse blows and the metal becomes a molten vapor inside the fuse and continues to conduct current. Many people use ANL fuses with lithium batteries, but they do not have a high enough interrupt rating. The class T fuse has a design that allows it to completely interrupt the flow of current. This is necessary in the event of a short downstream from the battery.
While it's true that Class T fuses have a higher interrupt rating, ANL and MRBF fuses are routinely used in lithium-battery RV systems without problems. The battery's BMS provides additional over-discharge/short-circuit protection, shutting down the battery (again, unlike lead-acid).

There are three issues with Class T fuses; cost, availability, and size. Perhaps the shortage has eased, but they were nearly impossible to find for quite a while. They're pricey if you do find them, but it's relatively minor compared to the cost of the electrical system or upgrade. They're somewhat bulky and Class T fuse holders are considerably longer than ANL fuse holders, which could be a problem in tight installations.

MRBF fuses mount directly to the battery, so they take up little room and you can't get any closer to the battery than that.

ANL fuses require a holder, but are overall more compact than Class T setups.

With either Class T or ANL fuses, you should mount them as close to the battery as possible. The AYBC recommendation is within 7", but it's not a mandatory standard for RVs, so you'll see some variation. Just keep the cable(s) as short as you can.
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Old 01-19-2025, 02:35 PM   #16
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Old 01-19-2025, 04:51 PM   #17
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Thank you!!! That is awesome. Bad enough AS but in a solar controller that doesn’t handle lithium (2020 - so had to change that).. but you saved me from changing the power center!!!
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Old 01-19-2025, 04:52 PM   #18
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Don’t let the magic smoke out

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bnystrom View Post
OK
If you're referring to the output current, that may be true, depending on exactly what you're comparing them to. It's controlled by the battery's BMS, unlike lead acid batteries that have no control circuitry.

ALL electrical systems can be a fire hazard if they're not properly designed and installed. Lithium battery systems are not special in that regard. You could make your point about building the system properly without using hyperbolic scare tactics.

ALL batteries should be properly fused; it doesn't matter what type.

Battery cables should be properly sized for the ampacity of the battery, which you can determine from a a wire ampacity chart. This is required for ALL types of batteries. If you're replacing lead-acid batteries with lithium batteries with the same Amp-hour rating, the existing cables are fine size-wise, unless they're old and/or corroded. If you're doing an upgrade on an older system that's been exposed to the elements, it's a good idea to replace the cables in case they may have corrosion issues which are not visible. It's not necessary to go any larger if the batteries are comparable, but it does no harm to oversize the cables. Proper crimping is required, regardless of the battery type.

While it's true that Class T fuses have a higher interrupt rating, ANL and MRBF fuses are routinely used in lithium-battery RV systems without problems. The battery's BMS provides additional over-discharge/short-circuit protection, shutting down the battery (again, unlike lead-acid).

There are three issues with Class T fuses; cost, availability, and size. Perhaps the shortage has eased, but they were nearly impossible to find for quite a while. They're pricey if you do find them, but it's relatively minor compared to the cost of the electrical system or upgrade. They're somewhat bulky and Class T fuse holders are considerably longer than ANL fuse holders, which could be a problem in tight installations.

MRBF fuses mount directly to the battery, so they take up little room and you can't get any closer to the battery than that.

ANL fuses require a holder, but are overall more compact than Class T setups.

With either Class T or ANL fuses, you should mount them as close to the battery as possible. The AYBC recommendation is within 7", but it's not a mandatory standard for RVs, so you'll see some variation. Just keep the cable(s) as short as you can.
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Old 01-20-2025, 09:42 AM   #19
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Information needed as well

Thanks
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