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Old 04-23-2022, 08:05 PM   #1
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Victron Smart Shunt Install Confirmation for Next Step Lithium Upgrade

Hello All,

I'm sorry for this similar post but haven't seen in my search anyone with my exact wiring setup and just want to reconfirm a few steps. I'm a pretty handy individual and been researching/reading alot already so on the right track. Was also going to confirm with Battleborn but so much knowledge here I figured my questions can be easily answered.

Have a new 2022 AS Flying Cloud 27 FBT with the Solar Package as info. Came with the Lifeline AGM's which I will be swapping to the Battleborns soon enough.

Pertaining to the Victron Smart Shunt I will be installing, the relative wiring setup right now in my AS is as follows:

There are 2 negative cables connected to the batteries in my battery box

1. There is battery negative cable coming off one of the neg battery terminals in battery box to the DC panel negative bus bar inside the trailer which is 6 AWG.

2. Then there is a 4 AWG Inverter negative cable from the other neg battery post that goes directly to the Inverter negative input (bypasses the neg bus bar).

This is my plan and let me know if this is correct:

1. Inside the AS, remove the 4 AWG negative cable connected to the inverter and crimp a 3/8 lug (its currently bare wire screw connected).

2. Remove the 6 AWG negative battery cable off the bus bar and crimp a 3/8 lug on that (that also is currently bare wire screw connected).

3. Use an extra short 4 AWG cable and attach from the neg output of the inverter to the bus bar.

4. Use an extra 4 AWG cable from the bus bar and attach to the "system minus" M10 terminal of the Victron Smart shunt (I'll make a bare wire to M10 lug connection to attach to the Smart Shunt).

5. Connect the 2 lugs made in steps 1 and 2 to the M10 "battery minus" terminal of the shunt.

6. Simply connect the VBatt+ wire from the shunt to the 12v+ DC bus bar.


Assume it's ok and not necessary that there is only 1 single negative cable coming from the battery minus connection to the house batteries? I have seen a couple videos where if the batteries are running independent it was ok to have a dual connection at the "battery minus" terminal of the shunt but mine are not independent. There is of course still the negative jumper wire in the battery box connecting both batteries in series. I also assume I would need to relocate both negative connections in the battery box coming from the "battery minus" shunt to the same end circuit negative battery post. Figuring the shunt will still function properly in this wire configuration?

Then last bit I need to do is to add a jumper wire on the WFCO converter behind circuit breaker panel to change it to Lithium operation and also change the MPPT solar controller setting to #7 for lithium as well.

Thanks in advance for this confirmation.

That 4 AWG wire on the inverter I'm puzzled about and why AS Jackson used it on the build. I looked up the manual for the Progressive Dynamics inverter and it calls for #1 AWG wire for the length installed on the 1000w inverter. I'm toying the idea to potentially upgrade to the same 2000w model so we can run more demanding appliances like a heater for little bit if boondocking and definitely a coffee maker on the same inverter outlet under the dining table. Should I be concerned if used same #4 AWG existing wiring? The manual for the 2000w model calls for #2/0 AWG wire.
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Old 04-23-2022, 08:32 PM   #2
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Electronut, welcome to the Airstream Community and Forums!

Sounds like you’ve thought this through pretty well. I’m a visual learner so it’s hard to follow your steps without a diagram but that’s just me.

I installed a Victron BVM-712, the predecessor of your SmartShunt. The key is to make sure all the negative loads run through the shunt. I installed a negative busbar and connected all cables from the batteries to the busbar then ran one back to one battery.

Good luck with your project!
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Old 04-23-2022, 08:45 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by jeffmc306 View Post
Electronut, welcome to the Airstream Community and Forums!

Sounds like you’ve thought this through pretty well. I’m a visual learner so it’s hard to follow your steps without a diagram but that’s just me.

I installed a Victron BVM-712, the predecessor of your SmartShunt. The key is to make sure all the negative loads run through the shunt. I installed a negative busbar and connected all cables from the batteries to the busbar then ran one back to one battery.

Good luck with your project!
Correct Jeff. "Yes" all system negatives will go through the shunt by way of the house negative bus bar but I will have 2 connections coming out from the shunt to one of the batteries negative battery post in the battery box. This is to simplify my install being I have 2 negative leads now installed from AS factory. One is coming direct from the inverter and the other is the standard negative battery cable. I tried to be detailed so if you read my points closely it makes simple sense. Just want to make sure those 2 wires out from the shunt to battery box won't cause operating issues and shunt will register accurately.
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Old 04-23-2022, 09:07 PM   #4
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Okay, thanks for the clarification. As long as those two negative cables are on the Shunt’s “System” (Load) terminal you’re fine. That’s labeled “A” in the Victron manual - see screen shot below.

From the B terminal connect to the battery.
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Old 04-23-2022, 09:28 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by jeffmc306 View Post
Okay, thanks for the clarification. As long as those two negative cables are on the Shunt’s “System” (Load) terminal you’re fine. That’s labeled “A” in the Victron manual - see screen shot below.

From the B terminal connect to the battery.
No that wouldn't be the case. Your still missing it. Those 2 cables I am mentioning would be connected on the "battery minus" side. They are currently connected in the battery box that way now each having their own run. One from inverter and the other from the standard battery negative cable.

As example, just like this gentleman has in his video but he's got 2 independent batteries connected on that side. Mine are still hooked in series and don't think that would matter correct?



Otherwise I will need to find a way to remove the 6 awg negative battery wire from the battery box and only use the 4 awg wire from the inverter as the single wire from the battery minus shunt post to battery box.

If an issue perhaps just leave the 6 awg negative cable connected on the neg bus bar as it is in the unit now and have disconnected and taped up the other end in the battery box instead of having on a battery terminal? Technically that should work too right since the battery negative ground will get tied in through the negative bus bar that the shunt is now hooked up to and will ground to batteries through the single 4 awg inverter wire I would use from the "battery minus".
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Old 04-24-2022, 11:47 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by jeffmc306 View Post
Okay, thanks for the clarification. As long as those two negative cables are on the Shunt’s “System” (Load) terminal you’re fine. That’s labeled “A” in the Victron manual - see screen shot below.

From the B terminal connect to the battery.
Last post I sent for some reason didn't get posted yet due to a moderator having to approve the YouTube link I provided. So I'll just post again without the visual.

Jeff or anyone - end result is the 2 negative cables are exiting the battery minus side of shunt. Those are the battery connections not the systems side. Will this be OK if I connect both of those to the same negative battery post in the battery box? So essentially instead of 1 cable from the shunt there is 2 because that's what's already there from the factory.

If this will be an issue for proper shunt operation I can always remove and tape up the end of the current battery 6 awg negative cable and leave it connected as original at the negative bus bar inside the unit. Then only run the original 4awg inverter wire from the battery minus of the shunt. The negative battery cable will still get ground through the bus bar and going through the shunt according to laws of DC current right?
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Old 04-24-2022, 04:21 PM   #7
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You are on the right track.

I operated with the Victron BMV 710 with Bluetooth dongle for the past 3 years. One thing I overlooked was the wiring to the jack on the front and also the wiring for the Zamp outlet. I have a suitcase solar panel which I have used a good bit and had to estimate the actual remaining battery capacity based on the readings of amp-hrs from the solar panel controller. If I was to do it again, I would bring run the ground side of both of these through the shunt so that the State of Charge (SOC) was truly accurate.

Recently, I upgraded to Battleborn lithium batteries, a Victron Multiplus II charger/inverter, and installed 400 watts of solar on the roof. You can see my report on this here. I still plan to use the suitcase solar and made sure this time that the trailer jack and Zamp outlet were grounded through a new Victron VE.Bus Smart Dongle.

When I opened up the DC distribution panel for the upgrade, I was surprised to see that the inverter ground, installed much as you describe, showed signs of heat damage. We have an 850 watt coffee maker and 850 watt toaster that we ran off the original inverter. Around 80 amp loads that were near the limit of the inverter. Obviously we could not run both at the same time. Look at the upper right white wire on the attached picture which acted as inverter ground. It is scorched at both ends. I have to believe that the darkened and melted insulation on the white 4 AWG wire as probably from a morning when these loads were run back to back. (I apologize this wire is white. I did not do the shunt installation myself. It should be black.) I think the Airstream original wiring is close to insufficient. If you ever decide to upgrade the inverter, I would follow the inverter recommendation of 1/0.

You will also notice in this picture on the left side that I installed a switch on the positive side of the battery. Since you are making changes anyway, I strongly suggest you install this battery kill switch for use when storing. This is the only way to stop the parasitic loads that draw down the batteries when stored.

Hope this helps.
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Old 04-24-2022, 05:01 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by jnm30327 View Post
You are on the right track.

I operated with the Victron BMV 710 with Bluetooth dongle for the past 3 years. One thing I overlooked was the wiring to the jack on the front and also the wiring for the Zamp outlet. I have a suitcase solar panel which I have used a good bit and had to estimate the actual remaining battery capacity based on the readings of amp-hrs from the solar panel controller. If I was to do it again, I would bring run the ground side of both of these through the shunt so that the State of Charge (SOC) was truly accurate.

Recently, I upgraded to Battleborn lithium batteries, a Victron Multiplus II charger/inverter, and installed 400 watts of solar on the roof. You can see my report on this here. I still plan to use the suitcase solar and made sure this time that the trailer jack and Zamp outlet were grounded through a new Victron VE.Bus Smart Dongle.

When I opened up the DC distribution panel for the upgrade, I was surprised to see that the inverter ground, installed much as you describe, showed signs of heat damage. We have an 850 watt coffee maker and 850 watt toaster that we ran off the original inverter. Around 80 amp loads that were near the limit of the inverter. Obviously we could not run both at the same time. Look at the upper right white wire on the attached picture which acted as inverter ground. It is scorched at both ends. I have to believe that the darkened and melted insulation on the white 4 AWG wire as probably from a morning when these loads were run back to back. (I apologize this wire is white. I did not do the shunt installation myself. It should be black.) I think the Airstream original wiring is close to insufficient. If you ever decide to upgrade the inverter, I would follow the inverter recommendation of 1/0.

You will also notice in this picture on the left side that I installed a switch on the positive side of the battery. Since you are making changes anyway, I strongly suggest you install this battery kill switch for use when storing. This is the only way to stop the parasitic loads that draw down the batteries when stored.

Hope this helps.
Great catch on the jack power and Zamp outlet especially. I too purchased a Zamp suitcase portable solar charger which I was planning to use so I would miss that charging through the shunt. The jack going through the shunt I'm not so concerned about since it's not a constant draw and only will move current when using the power hitch motor or turning on the onboard light.

You just made me think of another method of use now for the 6 awg battery negative cable. Instead of taping it up in the battery box I can connect that into another negative bus bar I would install inside the battery box where I can tie in any other outside powered items like my underglow and rock guard led light kits (even though I have installed on fused weatherproofed SPST switches) and even my Tireminder TPMS module that's mounted on my hitch (that has constant draw). That's brilliant because then all those items run back to the stock negative bus inside the AS by the DC panel where everything else would be connected before the shunt system side.
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Old 04-27-2022, 10:00 PM   #9
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So just a further update on my side. I spoke to Battleborn folks on the install. Very nice people over there as everyone always says they are top notch. My hardware from them is all ordered and will have this coming Monday. I also have wire, lugs, crimper, cutter, heat shrink tubing, bus bars etc also coming which I ordered seperately. I will begin the project this weekend.

Couple things I confirmed. I asked the neverending question about the TV alternator protection now with the lithiums being installed. They advised nothing will be needed since it's a trailer install and such a long run from the TV battery to the lithiums. It's more an issue for Class A, C, Van builds etc - same chassis type installs. Plus with only 3-5 amps tops coming through into the 7 way there is no issue for too much power traveling in either direction since there will also be voltage drop. So basically they said I don't need to touch anything there and leave things alone. TV is a 2008 Aspen 5.7L Hemi with 160 amp alternator as info. I was debating removing the #4 position 10 awg black wire on the Airstream 7way plug that is connected right into the +12v DC distribution box as a precaution. This way its removed from the equation all together. That's the battery charge wire in practically all 7 way plugs. I don't think should impact the function of the other lights since the rest are powered on the other pins of the 7way. This way as well if we are parked and I leave the 7way plugged in there will be no applicable parasitic draw from the TV battery but I also won't get the trickle charge from the TV either which Im okay with. This was BB only concern and they said very common practice that whenever you are not towing to always disconnect the 7 way. I'm not a fan of pulling the fuse in the TV to cut that power. Know alot of people do that but rather not touch it. Have the solar panels on the roof of the AS to also help with charging when in commute during the day too. I know this is debatable for many and everyone has a different opinion. Let me know what you think.

I also called Colonial Airstream Service Dept. (where we purchased our unit - great folks there as well)) to mention the inverter 4 awg wire that Jackson used on the trailer build for the inverter side and that it's not to correct spec according to the Progressive Dynamics manual. They were taken aback quite honestly in my discovery and was going to speak with their own tech folks and also address with AS and get back to me. What do folks do when you have to run new wire from the unit to the battery box? That hole that comes into the bottom of the unit with the rest of the other wires is very small. I can't see even if that 4awg wire is pulled and replaced with say 1/0 that it would fit through. Hate the idea of having to drill another hole into the floor of the new AS to direct out wire but that's likely what needs to be done I imagine if you do want to beef up battery cables. I wanted to swap to the Progressive Dynamics 2000w inverter since would be plug and play but no way I will take the chance with that 4 awg wire currently being used that's already under rated with the stock 1000w inverter. It will likely over heat depending what I run and how much draw it has. Don't want a fire hazzard. Let me know your thoughts on this item as well.

I'll take vid/pics of the project once done. I want to do a overview of our entire unit in a YouTube video eventually going over all the mods and upgrades I performed. I will post with a proper introduction in the corresponding section of the forum.

Until then...happy Airstreaming.
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Old 05-03-2022, 11:49 PM   #10
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Phase I Done

Installed the 200AH 2x Battleborn G27 heated batteries with the 500amp Victron Smartshunt also adding the temp sensor to assist in keeping an eye out if gets too cold and when I need to activate the self incorporated heating elements in the batteries. Upgraded the BlueSolar MPPT to Smartsolar 150/35 so has Bluetooth as well. Shunt and Solar Controller now all tied together into the Victron Connect App.

Also added a weatherproof and lighted SPST switch in the precut circle opening passenger side battery box. Fit perfectly. Cool find there. Also included the Victron dial power shutoff switch in the battery box to remove the lithiums from the circuit when required. Also installed positive and negative bus bars inside the battery box which allows me to tie in all outside powered items and additionaly capture their usage into the shunt. As example the led kits for underglow and rock guards, TPMS system, portable solar controller plug in, etc. The led light kits also each on own fused/lighted SPST switches you see there in the front of the battery box.

Next up.... 3 more 90watt Zamp Solar panels on the roof which are on the way. Will produce 450watts total plus I have the portable Zamp suitcase to plug in the nose which produces an additional 230watts.

TV battery power wire on the 7pin AS harness I removed from the 12v distribution panel to play safe with the TV. I will have sufficient solar charging when in tow too. Batteries will always be at 100% SOC before we leave on our journeys as well. The beauty of the BB batts is their internal BMS so won't get damaged if get depleted which is unlikely to happen.

I'll be back with further update once I get the additional panels installed. Toying on the OEM inverter upgrade too including inverting other outlets that are not inverted.😊
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Old 05-23-2022, 09:35 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Electronut View Post
Installed the 200AH 2x Battleborn G27 heated batteries with the 500amp Victron Smartshunt also adding the temp sensor to assist in keeping an eye out if gets too cold and when I need to activate the self incorporated heating elements in the batteries. Upgraded the BlueSolar MPPT to Smartsolar 150/35 so has Bluetooth as well. Shunt and Solar Controller now all tied together into the Victron Connect App.



Also added a weatherproof and lighted SPST switch in the precut circle opening passenger side battery box. Fit perfectly. Cool find there. Also included the Victron dial power shutoff switch in the battery box to remove the lithiums from the circuit when required. Also installed positive and negative bus bars inside the battery box which allows me to tie in all outside powered items and additionaly capture their usage into the shunt. As example the led kits for underglow and rock guards, TPMS system, portable solar controller plug in, etc. The led light kits also each on own fused/lighted SPST switches you see there in the front of the battery box.



Next up.... 3 more 90watt Zamp Solar panels on the roof which are on the way. Will produce 450watts total plus I have the portable Zamp suitcase to plug in the nose which produces an additional 230watts.



TV battery power wire on the 7pin AS harness I removed from the 12v distribution panel to play safe with the TV. I will have sufficient solar charging when in tow too. Batteries will always be at 100% SOC before we leave on our journeys as well. The beauty of the BB batts is their internal BMS so won't get damaged if get depleted which is unlikely to happen.



I'll be back with further update once I get the additional panels installed. Toying on the OEM inverter upgrade too including inverting other outlets that are not inverted.


Electronut, thanks for all the details and photos. I am planning a similar BBGC2H x 2 upgrade from my AGMs.

Do you have a wiring diagram you made/used to assist or plan your connections? If yes, would you be will to post or share?

Thanks
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Old 05-24-2022, 12:29 AM   #12
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Electronut, thanks for all the details and photos. I am planning a similar BBGC2H x 2 upgrade from my AGMs.

Do you have a wiring diagram you made/used to assist or plan your connections? If yes, would you be will to post or share?

Thanks
Hello Prdu029

Your welcome and no problem at all. I don't know about your 2019 prewire setup and if different than my 2022. If all your doing is the conversion to lithium and want to add the shunt there are no extra wires that are needed to be ran from inside the rig to the battery box (at least in my case). With the exception of the temperature sensor wire for the shunt if you elect that. That was a very thin gauge wire so was simple to get through the floor by poking with a clothes hanger and taping the temp wire to it as I snaked through the cured sikaflex already there.

Unfortunately I do not have a schematic. I basically sat down at my table and wrote out the wiring plan. I will quickly summarize at least what I did which you should be able to follow.

The pair of 4 awg wire from the inverter will be used to connect to the batteries in the outside box. The positive is split from the bus bar in the outside box to the cut off switch installed in the box and then to pos battery terminal. The 4 awg negative will be split inside the unit to attach the Victron Smart Shunt in between. Your choice if you feel necessary to add the bus bars in the battery box. I felt it was necessary so I captured other electronic items I had installed outside and because I had too many more connections to worry about cluttering it all on battery terminals etc but was more important all was captured to track back to the shunt.

The pair of 6 awg that was originally used to connect the +12vDC to the batteries in the box I now used as additional feed lines to the pos and neg bus bars I installed in the outside box. All the negative connections from the outside bus bar track back to the negative bus bar attached at the side of the 12vdc distribution panel in the rig. Then used a wire to jump that neg bus bar to the load side of the shunt so captures all usage from everything running through the system.

The MPPT install was a simple swap using the exact same wiring. It's as easy as that. Took some thought and a couple days to do it all but wasn't bad at all.

I decided to add a second Progressive Dynamics 2000w inverter for the other half of outlets not currently covered on the 1000w inverter. This way have the ability to run coffee maker and heavier 110v electrical items in the galley, bedroom and bathroom when boondocking. In addition, will also be adding a Victron Orion-Tr Smart DC to DC charger 24/12-20 for safe measure to charge batteries when in tow since will have the extra pair of wires not being used. I have to run another pair of 2/0 awg wire from inside the unit to the battery bank that will replace the current 4 awg wire. The existing 4 awg will remain on the 1000w inverter and will replace the 6 awg feed lines. The 6 awg will then run in parallel with the 7 way cord of the AS and be used to connect the DC to DC charger at the rear of the TV. Then run another pair of 14/2 romex from the electronics housing area to the breaker panel where I will tie the in/out AC lines of the 2000w inverter to the said breaker for these other outlets using a junction box I already made. I'll be able to run everything I want, selectively of course and not all at once, with the exception of the A/C and microwave when boondocking.

Ordered mounting brackets from AM Solar for the 3 additional 90w Zamp panels I'm installing. Will have those tomorrow. I returned the mounts I got from Zamp since those required drilling holes in the roof which I wanted to avoid. AM Solar has their custom brackets with VHB tape included that I will be using. I have 3m adhesive promoter and will completely cover the mounts with white Sikaflex for waterproofing. All said and done will have 450w of solar on the roof and a Zamp 230w portable suitcase to plug in at the nose for a total 680w in panels which is plenty for only having 200ah of lithium's.

This is my new plan and will see how our family likes it once we start to get used to the type of camping we will be venturing on. Will live with this a while or perhaps permanently. No rush to redo everything I have already done and upgrade to the Multiplus II with at least 400 - 600ah in lithium's.
Considerably more expensive to do this and I would have to rip apart everything I already did and relocate everything inside too. As mentioned, for us may not be necessary. I have our awesome Westinghouse portable dual fuel 4500w generator/inverter for backup which I configured to connect right to the propane connection of the rig to be able to run no problem off the 2 x 30lb. propane tanks. We need to start using the trailer and get a feel for our needs. I wanted to at least handle as many things as possible off the inverters. All said and done I will be close to the $5k range in budget for these upgrades I explained. I got the Zamp panels at a great price direct from Zamp as B Stock items too.
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Old 05-24-2022, 07:40 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by Electronut View Post
Installed the 200AH 2x Battleborn G27 heated batteries with the 500amp Victron Smartshunt also adding the temp sensor to assist in keeping an eye out if gets too cold and when I need to activate the self incorporated heating elements in the batteries. Upgraded the BlueSolar MPPT to Smartsolar 150/35 so has Bluetooth as well. Shunt and Solar Controller now all tied together into the Victron Connect App.

Also added a weatherproof and lighted SPST switch in the precut circle opening passenger side battery box. Fit perfectly. Cool find there. Also included the Victron dial power shutoff switch in the battery box to remove the lithiums from the circuit when required. Also installed positive and negative bus bars inside the battery box which allows me to tie in all outside powered items and additionaly capture their usage into the shunt. As example the led kits for underglow and rock guards, TPMS system, portable solar controller plug in, etc. The led light kits also each on own fused/lighted SPST switches you see there in the front of the battery box.

Next up.... 3 more 90watt Zamp Solar panels on the roof which are on the way. Will produce 450watts total plus I have the portable Zamp suitcase to plug in the nose which produces an additional 230watts.

TV battery power wire on the 7pin AS harness I removed from the 12v distribution panel to play safe with the TV. I will have sufficient solar charging when in tow too. Batteries will always be at 100% SOC before we leave on our journeys as well. The beauty of the BB batts is their internal BMS so won't get damaged if get depleted which is unlikely to happen.

I'll be back with further update once I get the additional panels installed. Toying on the OEM inverter upgrade too including inverting other outlets that are not inverted.😊

This is really great information and I appreciate the pics as I am doing something similar. Quick question on the Smartshunt installation (I have a 2021 Flying Cloud with the stock 1000W Progressive Dynamics inverter).


Can you confirm that the correct placement for the shunt is in-line between the negative cable coming from the batteries to the negative cable running into the inverter? So I will pull the cable currently running to the inverter negative input, connect it to the correct side of the shunt, and then run a new cable from the other side of the shunt to the negative input on the inverter?


I know you want all negative loads running through the shunt, so I would also be running some longer wires from my tongue jack into the rig and connecting to the DC panel.


Thank you for any advice.
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Old 05-24-2022, 09:59 PM   #14
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Sparta , NJ
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Originally Posted by MemphisRebel View Post
This is really great information and I appreciate the pics as I am doing something similar. Quick question on the Smartshunt installation (I have a 2021 Flying Cloud with the stock 1000W Progressive Dynamics inverter).


Can you confirm that the correct placement for the shunt is in-line between the negative cable coming from the batteries to the negative cable running into the inverter? So I will pull the cable currently running to the inverter negative input, connect it to the correct side of the shunt, and then run a new cable from the other side of the shunt to the negative input on the inverter?


I know you want all negative loads running through the shunt, so I would also be running some longer wires from my tongue jack into the rig and connecting to the DC panel.


Thank you for any advice.
This would be correct adding the shunt in-line for the negative cable of the inverter to the load side of the shunt and battery side of shunt direct to batteries in the rig. This only then captures your inverter usage on the shunt. If you want to simplify capturing usage of all the other items running off the batteries (unless you have other pos and neg device connections outside) is just add another 4 awg jumper wire from the neg bus bar attached on the side of the 12vDC distribution panel in the rig and also lug connect to the load side of the shunt with the other negative inverter connection. Make sure you have no other negative connections to the batteries besides the 4 awg inverter wire coming from the load side of the shunt.
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Old 05-25-2022, 05:29 AM   #15
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MemphisRebel there are lots of posts and I think some schematics if you search this forum. There are also Youtube videos. But the bottom line is quite simple-
there should be only one wire going to the negative side of your batteries and that is from the battery side of your shunt. All other negative wires that were previously connected to your battery now connect to the load side of the shunt. This is usually wires from your inverter and negative bus bar. If you have multiple batteries connected in parallel those wires can stay as is, but only one negative runs away from the batteries and that is to the shunt --Frank
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Old 06-05-2022, 08:05 PM   #16
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Phase II Done

Additional 3x90watt panels installed on the roof. Worked out well. I purchased the 5 hole brackets from AM Solar which the one panel I used the highest hole settings to clear the vent on the drivers side. Just makes it!

Also got 2 X 36" lengths of 3/4 flat aluminum that I will be cutting into 12" sections to have on hand for tilting these at a 45 degree angle if I want during the Winter months so can possibly get better usage for battery recharging. Cheaper to make than ordering those from AM Solar. I have extra knob fasteners for them as well.

Next up is the additional 2000w Progressive Dynamics Inverter upgrade to power the rest of the 27 FBT outlets plus the Victron Orion 20amp Isolated DC to DC charger. Have all the hardware and just need to find the time to tackle it hopefully in the next couple weeks.

Excuse the dorky picture 😉 Lol
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Old 06-11-2022, 08:16 PM   #17
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Well looks like I'm still adding to Phase II Lol 😁

I found room to add same width/height dim Zamp Legacy panel in an open spot but comes in a shorter length. I wasn't aware of the option so pleasant surprise. 45watt panel but couldn't help to make it an even 500 watts on the roof. Going in that one small section you see in the right of the pic. The Zamp 90 Watt panels are actually rated to produce 94watts in optimal conditions but that's unlikely. They market them as 90w panels.
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Old 06-12-2022, 12:48 PM   #18
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2021 25' Globetrotter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fran&frank View Post
MemphisRebel there are lots of posts and I think some schematics if you search this forum. There are also Youtube videos. But the bottom line is quite simple-

there should be only one wire going to the negative side of your batteries and that is from the battery side of your shunt. All other negative wires that were previously connected to your battery now connect to the load side of the shunt. This is usually wires from your inverter and negative bus bar. If you have multiple batteries connected in parallel those wires can stay as is, but only one negative runs away from the batteries and that is to the shunt --Frank


The newer models have 2 negative wires from the batteries. One from each (even though there is a jumper between the two Click image for larger version

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