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Old 11-30-2016, 02:07 AM   #21
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2014 20' Flying Cloud
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobgoldstein View Post
I keep my AS plugged in all of the time and have a as long as I have had it. No issues with the batteries at all using the original factory system. I wonder where the "sky is falling " folks get their information?
Do you use the trailer on occasion to sit or sleep in? Leave the fridge or AC on sometimes? If so, you are saving the batteries from being cooked by the standard battery charger/converter IMO.

The folks complaining about battery damage from the OEM charger leave the trailer plugged in without using anything 12-volt for weeks or months IMO. A recipe for cooked batteries.
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Old 11-30-2016, 04:12 AM   #22
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110 plug in

We have been leaving our airstreams (3 different ones) plugged in all winter and have not had any trouble.
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Old 11-30-2016, 04:30 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curnes View Post
I wold like to use a 110 (shore power) plug in my 2010 Bambi while storing it next to my house for the next couple of months. I run a 110 dehumidifying device because I live in the wet Northwest.

I'm not sure it is good for the 12v battery to keep it plugged in 24/7 and there is no way to run an extension cord into the trailer interior while it is closed up to keep the rain out.

Is there a way to activate the 110 plugs and not be charging the 12V battery?

Thanks for your thoughtful responses in advance.

Cameron
I have never disconnected shore power during the winter period. I don't put the battery use switch in the non use position. I basically drain the water, add some anti freeze and keep the unit "plugged in." Haven't had a problem over quite a number of years thus far. Doing more can't hurt.......maybe I'm just too unconcerned?

Good luck and great trailering.
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Old 12-01-2016, 06:51 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adam Geuss View Post
I have never disconnected shore power during the winter period. I don't put the battery use switch in the non use position. I basically drain the water, add some anti freeze and keep the unit "plugged in." Haven't had a problem over quite a number of years thus far. Doing more can't hurt.......maybe I'm just too unconcerned?

Good luck and great trailering.
I am curious to know Adam if you really challenge the batteries during the camping season with off-grid boondocking (without shore power), and whether you check/top off the battery water during the winter. Is your trailer stored outside where it exposed to the cold, or inside where the temp is more moderate?

If you have the original AS OEM battery Parallax charger, there are likely certain variables which have helped your batteries last this long IMO, and it would be helpful to know the conditions under which you have had success with your process.

Thanks,

Peter

PS -- If you feel like it, it would also be helpful for you to unplug from shore power, wait an hour or so, then track the battery voltage every day until you get down to whatever level you are comfortable with, say 12.3 volts (50% of capacity +/-). Turning the Use/Store switch to Store will of course help the batteries last longer, with "Use" switched on only to check the voltage. Our batteries will last 7-10 days until they get down to the 12.5 level (90% of capacity +/-), without any shore power, and without any electrical use.

PS2 -- Assuming we are talking about standard flooded cell batteries.
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Old 12-01-2016, 10:33 PM   #25
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Very Confused on this one-stage charger issue

I have been tirelessly reading a lot on the issue of the stock one-stage chargers 'cooking' batteries, with the layman's description being that they are 'always' on. Which is true...but read on.

And that's it's important to replace the stock Parallax 7300 series (in my case on a 2014 FC) with a Progressive dynamics 4600 series.

But the Parallex 7300 documentation says this:

"Your Parallax 7300 series power converter is capable of delivering its full rated output to the battery(s) if needed, but will taper off to a few hundred milliamps when the battery(s) are at full charge." In looking at a test graph in their documentation, it does show that voltage stays around 13.87 volts indefinitely from starting to charge a 50% depleted battery, until full charge, while the amperage starts at 45 amps and within a couple hours down to under 2 amps, and then down to .14 amps after 21 hours. So the VOLTAGE stays 'on' full, so to speak, but the amperage drops to a trickle.

The 3-stage converter like a PD 4655 series talks about varying the VOLTAGE, not the amperage. 14.4 boost charging, then down to 13.6V 'normal" charging, and finally 13.2V "storage." With a Peak Amperage of 55 amps. But the documentation does not say how the amperage drops as the battery charges. A lot of reading I've done suggests that higher voltage (like the Parallax) and in fact up to 14.8 volts, is needed to fully charge a battery.

So it seems the PD 4655 is better for charging, as it pushed 14.4 volts in the beginning, compared to 13.8 on the Parallax, and I must assume that the PD 4655 will drop the amps to a trickle as well as the voltage. Anyone know?

But with the Parallax staying at 13.8 volts, but .14 amps...will that 'cook' a battery at such a small trickle charge? Doesn't make sense to me.

I'm still a fan of switching to a PD unit, but for a different reason now...not to avoid 'cooking' batteries, but to get a fuller charge (since it starts out at 14.4 volts vs 13.8 for the Parallax).

Could there be an issue with too many owners not staying on top of the water in their batteries like they should, and that is leading to problems--and leaving the stock converters plugged in at .14 amps is actually not the problem?
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Old 12-08-2016, 10:04 AM   #26
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OK, You 'geniuses;

I have replaced my Parallax with a PD4655 (with Charge Wizard.), because the Parallax was under charging my batteries. (Specific Gravity (SG) was down to 1.125 or so.) Deep In the 'red' band.
A'Genius' Battery minder brought the SG up to 1.250+, so that's when I went for the PD4655.

It kept the SG at 1.250-1.300, and batt voltage (AC DISCONNECTED ) was 12.6 Volts.
Two weeks later, I did another SG check, and it was up to 1.300+ in the white band ABOVE the green, right to a black line. Water level was perfect and voltage 12.5.
So do I have a future problem here? Or is everything good?��
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Old 12-08-2016, 04:03 PM   #27
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It is my understanding that a reading of 12.5 volts indicates that the batteries are operating at only 90% of their capacity. A fully charged battery should provide a reading of 12.7 to 12.9, depending on brand and age IMO.

This other thread has some good info for starters:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f516...ty-159769.html

Here is the chart: http://www.marxrv.com/12volt/voltchart1.gif

And a good overview of battery use in an RV:

http://www.marxrv.com/12volt/12volt.htm
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Old 12-08-2016, 04:58 PM   #28
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Trailer has been plugged in since November trip so it is good.
Leaving tomorrow and truck won't start.
When we get home I will try to drive the truck at least once per week.
I have one of those small solar panels to charge a battery somewhere. I guess I should find it and try it.
I thought we might go somewhere Thanksgiving, but we didn't.
I guess the truck can't go a month in cold weather without being run.


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Old 12-08-2016, 05:59 PM   #29
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what dehumidifiers do you use?
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Old 12-08-2016, 07:07 PM   #30
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No dehumidifier-
The heat pumps have been on.
Now the propane furnace is on.


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Old 12-08-2016, 08:25 PM   #31
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I use a plug in dehumidifier that is typically sold for boats. It does not have a reservoir so doesn't need to be emptied.
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Old 12-08-2016, 08:38 PM   #32
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This is what we use:

DryWave 1000 Air Dryer
About $50 at Amazon
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Old 12-10-2016, 07:03 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OTRA15 View Post
It is my understanding that a reading of 12.5 volts indicates that the batteries are operating at only 90% of their capacity. A fully charged battery should provide a reading of 12.7 to 12.9, depending on brand and age IMO.

This other thread has some good info for starters:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f516...ty-159769.html

Here is the chart: http://www.marxrv.com/12volt/voltchart1.gif

And a good overview of battery use in an RV:

http://www.marxrv.com/12volt/12volt.htm
FYI: The outside air temp here is about -0 deg.C, to -3, and according to a S.O.C./Temp chart, it's fine at 12.5 V.

Trailer Trash.........."

"Look after your Equipment, it will look after You."
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Old 12-10-2016, 07:46 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MelGoddard View Post
FYI: The outside air temp here is about -0 deg.C, to -3, and according to a S.O.C./Temp chart, it's fine at 12.5 V.

Trailer Trash.........."

"Look after your Equipment, it will look after You."

For more information on batteries, try to find a site called "batteryfaq.htm."
Don't know the full address, but I have it in my docs.
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Old 12-11-2016, 04:56 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MelGoddard View Post
FYI: The outside air temp here is about -0 deg.C, to -3, and according to a S.O.C./Temp chart, it's fine at 12.5 V.
. . .
Thanks for the clarification, good to know.
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Old 12-11-2016, 10:06 AM   #36
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Thanks everyone for the clear and consistent answer, HA! I think I'll plug into my 110 and turn the 12volt master switch in the trailer to the off position. Every couple of weeks, I'll turn it back on and leave it overnight to top off the battery. I think I will get the benefit of keeping the battery charged and not running the risk of frying it.
It is wonderful to get all the diverse responses.
Happy Holidays,
Cameron
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Old 12-14-2016, 02:30 PM   #37
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We are home till March.
I have winterized the trailer and uncoupled the truck, planning to drive it to work at least one day per week to keep the battery up.
I drove the truck to work yesterday.
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