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06-08-2007, 04:00 PM
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#1
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2 Rivet Member
1979 31' Excella 500
Battle Mountain
, Nevada
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 36
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upgrading the Univolt
I have a 79' Excella 500, 31'. The original Univolt was toast. Any recommendations for the new replacement converter ( and two batteries )? What types of batteries are best? Can I get by with only one battery( like an AGM )?
Our RV schedule is infrequent use with the Airstream, occasionally camping, more during the fall hunting seasons, etc. Most times, it will be parked and plugged into shore power to maintain the batteries, etc.
Thanks
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06-08-2007, 04:06 PM
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#2
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeandbecky
I have a 79' Excella 500, 31'. The original Univolt was toast. Any recommendations for the new replacement converter ( and two batteries )? What types of batteries are best? Can I get by with only one battery( like an AGM )?
Our RV schedule is infrequent use with the Airstream, occasionally camping, more during the fall hunting seasons, etc. Most times, it will be parked and plugged into shore power to maintain the batteries, etc.
Thanks
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If you want to keep your Airstream original, then you can use the Univolt that Airstream has used for many years. It's output is 55 amps, and it's solid state.
Part number 64046.
Andy
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06-08-2007, 04:07 PM
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#3
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Naysayer
1968 24' Tradewind
Russellville
, earth
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 4,954
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I ordered the 4455TC 55 Amp converter/charger with temp control from Best converter. I don't know if the extra $50(ish) for the temp control was money well spent or not, but I figured why not. I installed it several weeks ago and have been pretty happy so far. You can hear the fan running but it is a world better than the univolt hum.
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06-08-2007, 05:00 PM
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#4
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2 Rivet Member
1979 31' Excella 500
Battle Mountain
, Nevada
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 36
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Upgrading the Univolt
Andy,
Thanks for the reply. I checked out the relacement ( part # 64046 ). It has a notation .." must salvage the fuse panel "... I am assuming this refers to the main fuse panel of the Airstream, ( located, on my 79 Excella , directlyabove the old Univolt.) Am I correct?
What are your thoughts on a replacement battery /s' ?
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06-08-2007, 05:09 PM
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#5
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeandbecky
Andy,
Thanks for the reply. I checked out the relacement ( part # 64046 ). It has a notation .." must salvage the fuse panel "... I am assuming this refers to the main fuse panel of the Airstream, ( located, on my 79 Excella , directlyabove the old Univolt.) Am I correct?
What are your thoughts on a replacement battery /s' ?
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Airstream reduced the cost of Univolts by having a separate fuse panel. When replacing an older univolt that has a fuse panel, simply salvage it and use it with the new univolt.
Batteries are another matter.
You can go top dollar and get the latest on the market, but at more than double the expense of good regular batteries.
Cheap batteries should be avoided.
Costco as an example have good batteries at considerable savings.
Or, find a Delco dealer.
Andy
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06-08-2007, 05:35 PM
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#6
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2 Rivet Member
1979 31' Excella 500
Battle Mountain
, Nevada
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 36
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Upgrading the Univolt..
Uh,...No possibility of salvaging the old fuse panel. Its gone. Is there a plan " B "...?
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06-08-2007, 05:41 PM
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#7
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Naysayer
1968 24' Tradewind
Russellville
, earth
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 4,954
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Suggestion
Unless you are dead set on a univolt, I really recomend that you do a search on converters and read up. My feel is that the majority of us are in agreement that the univolt while a fine product in its day has had its day.
Neat-o search trick: use google then-> search term site:airforums.com
ex converter site:airforums.com
or intellipower converter site:airforums.com
This will give you the power of googles search engine and restrain the search to airforums!
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06-08-2007, 05:55 PM
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#8
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Rivet Master
1997 30' Limited
1972 23' Safari
1965 17' Caravel
Howell
, Michigan
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,071
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Check with palameno I just bought a 45 amp Converter.. 125.00..Solid state...
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06-08-2007, 06:16 PM
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#9
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Rivet Master
1978 31' Excella 500
Venice
, California
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 1,067
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If you still have the fuse panel that was above the univolt, you're in business. You just replace the univolt with a modern switching power supply made for the purpose. Hook up is simplicity itself. Two DC wires for the output, and AC input, usually a plug. The unit is grounded if you use a three wire plug. If you want to maintain the AC on pilot, use an old wall wart the has a 12 volt output, AC or DC. Keep the two battery set-up. BTW what's your floorplan?
__________________
"Not all who are laundering are washed" say Bill & Heidi
'78 Excella 500,"The Silver Pullit". vacuum over hydraulic disc brakes, center bath, rear twin. '67 Travelall 1200 B 4X4 WBCCI 3737
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06-09-2007, 12:17 AM
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#10
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3 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
Battle Ground
, Washington
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: 1975 25' Tradewind
Posts: 180
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I just ordered a new uni-volt replacement for our 1975
Tradewind. Got it from Inland RV. The old one is toast. I could not believe how heavy the old one is.
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06-09-2007, 08:30 AM
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#11
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Rivet Master
1966 22' Safari
1979 30' Argosy
Armada
, Michigan
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 950
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If I am correct, the old univolt fuse panel is not the fuse holder/power distribution block that send power to the different circuits in the trailer. May be wrong, check to make sure. If I am correct, then what you are missing is a huge honkin 55amp "shotgun shell" lookin fuse that is designed to go between the converter and the battery, so if one goes haywire the other is saved. This thread has some discussion on that panel.
And, again, Inland OEM replacement is good, and so is WFCO, Intellipower and Iota. I have an IOTA and love it.
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06-09-2007, 09:01 AM
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#12
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeandbecky
Uh,...No possibility of salvaging the old fuse panel. Its gone. Is there a plan " B "...?
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Two fuse panels are available.
The first is made by Airstream and has the same basic design.
The second is a "brand X" that is not expensive, but you must make some changes to it.
I will post photo's of the two on Monday.
Andy
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06-16-2007, 08:29 PM
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#13
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3 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
Battle Ground
, Washington
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: 1975 25' Tradewind
Posts: 180
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My Univolt gave up so I bought a replacement unit from Inland RV. Just installed it with a new battery. It did not work on 12V until I replaced the 40amp glass fuse in the fuse box. Now everything works again as it should. Radio shack has the hard to find fuses for our trailers.
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07-26-2007, 09:27 PM
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#14
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2 Rivet Member
1979 31' Excella 500
Battle Mountain
, Nevada
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 36
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Univolt upgrade.
Hi!
I'm looking for some advice on upgrading to a new converter in my '79 Excella 500, 31'. The old Univolt had been removed( no, the old fuse panel was not salvaged , and the wires were cut around it to free it for removal. What I have now is shown in the attached picture. From what I can tell, left-to-right:
120 AC wire to converter( with black electrical tape), solid copper ground wire to converter, then a small dia. grey wire, spliced into a black 12 ga.wire to the converter. (Not sure, but maybe this goes to the "Power On" indicator light to the control panel in the galley?) , then there is a shorter fiber insulated Positive DC lead to the converter, next to that is the longer Negative DC lead to the converter.
The black cable drooping in the back is a coaxial cable routed through from the TV antennea..
Does anyone know or forsee any problems when I connect the new converter to these leads? Im thinking of possibly a WFCO 45 Amp 9800 series, or maybe an Inteli-power with the built-in charge wizard? Can I hook up the AC to the AC and the Pos. DC to the Pos. DC, etc.. Or is there something that Im missing? I read an older post about fusing the Pos. battery lead to the converter in case of a short or surge? Should I do that?
Thanks for the advice in advance!
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07-29-2007, 02:57 PM
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#15
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3 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
Battle Ground
, Washington
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: 1975 25' Tradewind
Posts: 180
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You should buy a deep cycle RV battery. The wires from your univolt will work on a new charge unit. I bought mine at Inland RV. If your fuse panel is mounted on the front of the univolt you should buy a new one. If it is separate like mine was you can use the old one. The small white cloth covered wire is not used when you replace the univolt. It powered a red light at the back of the trailer.
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07-29-2007, 02:58 PM
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#16
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3 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
Battle Ground
, Washington
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: 1975 25' Tradewind
Posts: 180
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Replacing univolt
You should buy a deep cycle RV battery. The wires from your univolt will work on a new charge unit. I bought mine at Inland RV. If your fuse panel is mounted on the front of the univolt you should buy a new one. If it is separate like mine was you can use the old one. The small white cloth covered wire is not used when you replace the univolt. It powered a red light at the back of the trailer.
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07-29-2007, 04:34 PM
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#17
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Rivet Master
1966 22' Safari
1979 30' Argosy
Armada
, Michigan
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 950
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeandbecky
Hi!
I'm looking for some advice on upgrading to a new converter in my '79 Excella 500, 31'. The old Univolt had been removed( no, the old fuse panel was not salvaged , and the wires were cut around it to free it for removal. What I have now is shown in the attached picture. From what I can tell, left-to-right:
120 AC wire to converter( with black electrical tape), solid copper ground wire to converter, then a small dia. grey wire, spliced into a black 12 ga.wire to the converter. (Not sure, but maybe this goes to the "Power On" indicator light to the control panel in the galley?) , then there is a shorter fiber insulated Positive DC lead to the converter, next to that is the longer Negative DC lead to the converter.
The black cable drooping in the back is a coaxial cable routed through from the TV antennea..
Does anyone know or forsee any problems when I connect the new converter to these leads? Im thinking of possibly a WFCO 45 Amp 9800 series, or maybe an Inteli-power with the built-in charge wizard? Can I hook up the AC to the AC and the Pos. DC to the Pos. DC, etc.. Or is there something that Im missing? I read an older post about fusing the Pos. battery lead to the converter in case of a short or surge? Should I do that?
Thanks for the advice in advance!
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Ok,
Yes you can do everything you just said. What you want to make sure is that you have a 35-45 amp fuse between the battery and the charger. Take a look at this schematic. You don't need three fuses, but at least one will do. You'll probably need to buy a fuse holder and install it in a covered electrical box or something. I think that either of the choices you have made will be fine, as will Iota, and the OEM from Inland. I recommend that you think about going with a 55 amp unit, since your trailer is newer and bigger than mine, we did a 35 amp.
You will find out, when you buy a new converter, that it has a regular 110V AC plug for connecting to the trailer. You should install an outlet box, with outlet, in the cavity and then plug your new converter into it. Makes trouble shooting easy.
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07-30-2007, 12:49 PM
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#18
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2 Rivet Member
1979 31' Excella 500
Battle Mountain
, Nevada
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 36
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Than ks for the suggestions and the help! I'll give it a try.
Mike
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07-30-2007, 02:35 PM
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#19
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4 Rivet Member
1996 28' Excella
Okemos
, Michigan
Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 305
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I would recommend replacing those fiber insulated wires with new rubber insulated 6ga battery cable. It will have lots of very fine wires, making it nice and flexible. Many people install an on/off switch to the AC outlet that the converter is plugged into. That way you can switch it off and see on the control panel the state of the charge of the batteries. Another upgrade is to install a battery switching system: #1 or #2 or both off or both on. When boondocking, you can easily just use one battery at a time, and if one goes bad, it does not affect the other. On converter choice, we are using the WFCO 3 stage and like it alot. The old ferroresonant univolt weighed a ton! The new solid state converters can be picked up with a pinkie!
__________________
Dave
Okemos, MI
T.V.:'05 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 Quad Cab Cummins
AIR#2276
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