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Nuvite-F · 10-30-2011, 08:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sparkygus

We have a 2007 25' International CCD, and I want to upgrade the converter to get rid of the hummmmmmmm.

I'm puzzled about something here. . . the old copper-and-iron boat anchor converters were notorious for their hum, but does your 2007 model have one of those? I would think that Airstream has been putting high-frequency switching converters in their trailers since at least 2000, and I have never heard of any of those "humming".

We replaced the iron converter in our 1980 trailer with an Intellipower around 2007 and as far as my ears can hear (not very well) it's silent.
.

Lumatic · 10-30-2011, 08:11 AM

I replaced the guts off my Univolt with a 9245. I cut off the back half of the Univolt gutted it except for the fuse panel and mounted the Intellipower on the old Univolt chassis. The only problem I have had with the old fuse panel in at least 5 years is you can't find those 40 amp AGM fuses. But you can replace the fuse with a 40 amp thermal break, clips right in.

Silver Goose · 10-30-2011, 08:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nuvite-F

...I would think that Airstream has been putting high-frequency switching converters in their trailers since at least 2000, and I have never heard of any of those "humming"...

I wonder if Sparkygus has a particularly loud fan on his? Mine is essentially silent also until the thermostat turns the fan on. I've noticed that when the sun warms up that side of the trailer the fan comes on and is noticeable, particularly when nothing else is on (even when batteries are in storage mode). Mine is located in a small cubbyhole below the pull out pantry and I think I can find a better way to ventilate that space so it stays cooler.

Lumatic · 10-30-2011, 08:57 AM

I read the ubiquitous Univolt humm is from breakdown of the varnish on the armature. Theoretically the armature can be repotted and the humm stopped. Or so I have been told.

Air-Texas · 10-30-2011, 11:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TG Twinkie

A 5 amp GFCI? If so that's your problem. Use a 15 amp breaker to supply power to a receptacle then just plug the new converter into it.

Yep it reads 5 Amp

Air-Texas · 10-30-2011, 11:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by casa3805

77Argosy,
I replaced my univolt with an intelipower 9260 just like yours a few months back. Check this thread and you can see the issues I had. http://www.airforums.com/forums/f449...ion-78743.html Bottom line though was I just needed to replace the GFCI circuit breaker. They get old, just like everything else and it would seem that they are fine when everything sending power thru it is also old, when you put in that new converter, it just cannot keep up.

Either way, I hope this is a simple fix for you and I think it will be. (And you may have misread the breaker, it is probably a 15, not a 5) When you go to buy the breaker, make sure you know what kind/brand of breaker panel you have. I was a bit naive when I walked into the store. One size does not fit all. luckily I had taken a picture with my phone earlier and was able to show the clerk that it was a GE box.
Good luck !

On the way to buy a new 15 Amp GF breaker.
This is what the install looks like...Note, we clean dry and put flooring on the wood decking.

casa3805 · 10-31-2011, 04:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 77Argosy24

On the way to buy a new 15 Amp GF breaker.
This is what the install looks like...Note, we clean dry and put flooring on the wood decking.

That looks very nice. I have batteries in a storage box on the front forks, intellipower up front, inside on the floor, fuse box is mounted on the wall just above it, and the breaker box is all the way in the back, under the sink. Having it all in one spot looks like it makes so much more sense...

ps, your pictures reminded me I had not posted final pictures of our install. (at least on that thread, I may have done it on another talking about installing the floor) So I went back and added them if you want to see how ours ended up.... Hope that GFCI works for you! Naturally, they are not the cheapest breaker on the shelf.

Sparkygus · 10-31-2011, 10:45 PM

Thanks for the suggestion on the place to call. I'll do that.

Regarding the hummm in our 2007, it's different than the converter fan coming on. The fan noise we can live with. What bugs us is a hum/buzz (sometimes quite loud) that we get with different electrical loads. Certain combinations of lights being used will cause a very annoying buzz. We can affect the buzz by simply changing the lighting combination, but it's quite annoying to not be able to light the trailer the way we want. Something as simple as turning on the bathroom light or the bedroom light can really affect the electrical noise.

I'm going to get the trailer this weekend and start working on the system. I'll report back what I find, and I'm always looking for advise on how to make the trailer better!

We also have a very bad buzz in our factory installed sound system, but we get the converter hum/buzz even with the sound system turned off completely. The hum/buzz that I think is from the converter does not emanate from the speakers.

Silver Goose · 11-01-2011, 05:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sparkygus

...We also have a very bad buzz in our factory installed sound system, but we get the converter hum/buzz even with the sound system turned off completely....

You and I have about the same year model so it is likely you have a Parallax 7355. On these models, the fan is normally the only source of noise. From your description of the symptoms it does appear that some component is "ringing" dependent on the load that you hear as a varying hum. It is possibly putting a ripple on the 12v output or emanating some RF. That might also be the source of the hum you hear in the audio system. Find the 110 circuit breaker (on mine it is the 3rd from left) that supplies the converter and switch it off. Does that solve the problem with your sound system?

You may have a subwoofer hidden out of sight. If it proves to be the source of the hum for your audio system, there is also a fix for that that is published on the Airstream website.

ROBERT CROSS · 11-01-2011, 05:24 AM

Typical AS after the fact solution...

Let the customer DIY...

Bob

Silver Goose · 11-01-2011, 05:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sparkygus

... I'm looking through the web at the Intellipower converters. Does anyone know which model is a direct replacement for the factory installed unit?...

The Intellipower PD 4655 is a direct replacement for the Parallax 7355.

http://www.bestconverter.com/4600-se...its_c_133.html

Nuvite-F · 11-01-2011, 07:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sparkygus

Regarding the hummm in our 2007, it's different than the converter fan coming on. The fan noise we can live with. What bugs us is a hum/buzz (sometimes quite loud) that we get with different electrical loads. Certain combinations of lights being used will cause a very annoying buzz. We can affect the buzz by simply changing the lighting combination, but it's quite annoying to not be able to light the trailer the way we want. Something as simple as turning on the bathroom light or the bedroom light can really affect the electrical noise.

Well, this is a new one on me. It does sound as though there may be something wrong with the converter. Would be interesting to look at the DC output with a scope. The converter might still be working after a fashion with one bad diode or transistor.

For what it's worth, that's what happened to our old-fashioned ferroresonant converter. The battery charging voltage was a little low and I found a bad diode in the output bridge. I don't know how long it had been like that. That provided an excuse to replace the old 50 pound boat anchor with a 5 pound Intellipower which, in addition to being quiet and saving weight, takes much better care of the battery.
.

Inland RV Center, In · 11-01-2011, 08:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lumatic

I read the ubiquitous Univolt humm is from breakdown of the varnish on the armature. Theoretically the armature can be repotted and the humm stopped. Or so I have been told.

Yes, that's how it's done.

Andy

Sparkygus · 11-02-2011, 08:19 AM

Thanks for the info about the AS subwoofer noise issue fix. I'm getting the trailer this weekend, and will get to work on sorting out the problems.

Sparkygus · 11-06-2011, 08:40 PM

Today I replaced the battery disconnect relay. It had recently failed, and I suspect that it been failing for quite some time. After installing the new relay, the very loud hum dissipated to a level that is barely discernible. For now, I'm going to hold off on buying and installing a new converter. Does a new converter manage the batteries better than the Paralax that is currently installed.

I also purchased a Radio Shack ground loop isolator and put that in the audio system and we now have much better audio.

I'm happy with how a couple of quick fixes significantly improved the usability of our rig!

Thanks for all of the suggestions.

ROBERT CROSS · 11-07-2011, 05:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sparkygus

.... Does a new converter manage the batteries better than the Paralax that is currently installed.

Thanks for all of the suggestions.

You bet they do. The P-lax needs manual management and will over-charge if not monitored closely.
Our Classic came with ruined batteries from 24/7 hook-up.

Changed ours three Seasons ago, IOTA 55a IQ4 DLS, from Best Converter.

Very happy with it. Give Randy a call.

Bob