Univolt replacement

[Mojave96]

I just bought a 1980 Excella with original Univolt.
How many amps is it?
I'd like to install a PD INTELI-POWER 9200 Series and is the 45amp enough?
I have new 75ah batteries and don't want to ruin them.
Is it a straight swap with no other electrical work?
Thank you much!

[strangepod]

My 2 cents:
45 amp should be enough but if you look on the old unit it should have an output rating listed. My '76 Argosy had a 30amp and it's being replaced by the very same unit you are talking about. Furthermore with the advent of LED lighting, this greatly reduces the load on the supply. The new units like the intella-power are FAR superior than the old Univolt and I might add much lighter.


John

[Bill M.]

I replaced mine with a 45 amp and it is fine. I took the cover off the old unit to disconnect the wires inside it. That gave me enough wire to just hook up the new unit. I capped off the wire to the indicator light on the panel. That does not work with the new converters. Some people change the fuse panel and rewire. I do not think you want a higher output converter unless you rewire.

On things I would do. My converter is in a circuit with a switch to cut off the converter. If your trailer is not wired that way I would consider adding that feature. The converter draws a good amount of power and I have to switch it off to run the microwave with our generator. Or I guess you could use the breaker as a switch.

[DryFly]

Re other electrical work, I think you have the older glass tube style fuse. Since you're already messing around with your Univolt (and it IS a good idea to replace it), consider switching the fuse panel to an automotive style blade fuse panel. The older glass tube style are not as easily found as the blade style, which are everywhere.

[uncle_bob]

Hi

A Univolt from 1980 is on the "need to replace" list. Even if it appears to be working right now, it likely will let you down fairly soon.

Before you do anything, stop and think a bit about just what the end goal is. Will you be adding solar? Will you take the lighting to LED's? Are you tearing this or that out / replacing it? Are you adding a second AC unit? Might you upgrade the battery setup? Will you add better 12V monitoring? Each of those might have an impact on what you do with the 12V / converter wiring and setup.

Bob

[Mojave96]

Thank you, good points.

[Mojave96]

Thank you, perhaps later.

[Mojave96]

Thank you, good idea, I don't have that problem.

[TomW]

The 30 amp Univolt in my '67 Airstream was still working when I got it in 2003. We even used it for a year or two until I got tired of worrying about overcharging the battery. I then purchased the 30 amp converter Randy recommended over at BestConverter.com. When that converter bit the dust many years later, it was replaced with Randy's current, 30-amp recommendation which is still going strong.

The 30 amp capacity appeared more than adequately handled the electrical load. But now that most of the interior lighting is LED instead of incandescent, my Airstream could probably get by with something smaller.

The Univolt, however, never retired. Among other things, it and my Airstream's original water pump were especially useful in 2013 in applying termiticide. You can read about it here: http://adventuresofacuriousfellow.bl...ie-lookie.html

Since 2016 the Univolt has been supplying power for LED strip lighting in my train/practice room. I don't think it will ever die.

Tom

[CBWELL]

I have installed several of the PD9245 converters over the years. They are very good units with good factory back-up. As suggested you could replace the fuse panel, but it is not totally necessary. That unit is enough capacity for your trailer. Your batteries will thankk you for the replacement!!

[DryFly]

Originally Posted by CBWELL

I have installed several of the PD9245 converters over the years. They are very good units with good factory back-up. As suggested you could replace the fuse panel, but it is not totally necessary. That unit is enough capacity for your trailer. Your batteries will thankk you for the replacement!!

A few years ago we were on a trip and camped in a KOA, that night a fuse blew. I had replaced the Univolt a few months prior, but not the original fuse panel. I went to the campground store for a replacement fuse, and all they had were the blade type. I drove a few miles and found a small store, and again, all they had were the blade type. After stopping at another store (no luck), I eventually drove about 50 miles into the outskirts of Portland before I found a NAPA that had the part I needed. They had the fuse, but they also had way more blade types.
So I agree, from a mechanical perspective, the old fuse panel is functional, and it's usually not necessary to replace it. But replacing it with a modern panel is an easy and pretty inexpensive job, and doing so may save you missing an entire day of camping with your family. For me, it was a no-brainer.

[uncle_bob]

Hi

These days you can buy a "fuse assortment" pack from places like Amazon for not much money at all. If you match the fuse type you need to the pack you buy, the result is a lifetime supply of any fuse you might need.

Something to go shopping for while the trailer is in storage for the winter ....

Bob

[Mojave96]

Originally Posted by uncle_bob

Hi

These days you can buy a "fuse assortment" pack from places like Amazon for not much money at all. If you match the fuse type you need to the pack you buy, the result is a lifetime supply of any fuse you might need.

Something to go shopping for while the trailer is in storage for the winter ....

Bob

��Agreed, I have a container of glass fuses I filled from Autozone. I wasn't looking for more work�� Thx to all!

[Bill M.]

I have blown 1 fuse in about 20 years in my Airstreams. A short in the 12 volt outlet I run my CPAP in. Gonna check and see if I have some more or if I am ordering.